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STARK’S 


JAMAICA  GUIDE 

(ILLUSTRATED) 

CONTAINING 


A DESCRIPTION  OF  EVERYTHING  RELATING  TO 
JAMAICA  OF  WHICH  THE  VISITOR  OR  RESI- 
DENT MAY  DESIRE  INFORMATION 

INCLUDING 


ITS  HISTORY,  INHABITANTS,  GOVERNMENT,  RESOURCES, 
AND  PLACES  OF  INTEREST  TO  TRAVELLERS 


jFuIIg  Illustrate!) 

WITH  MAPS , ENGRAVINGS , AND  PHOTO-PRINTS 


BY 

JAMES  H.  STARK 


BOSTON 

JAMES  H.  STARK,  PUBLISHER 
Equitable  Building 
LONDON 

SAMPSON  LOW,  MARSTON  & COMPANY,  Limited 


Copyright,  1898, 

By  JAMES  H.  STARK 


Typography  by  C.  J Peters  & Son, 
Boston. 

Plimpton  ^rfss 

H.  M.  PUMFT  ON  4 CO.,  PRINTERS  & BINDERS, 
NORWOOD,  MASS.,  U.S.A. 


PREFACE. 


The  purpose  of  the  writer  in  presenting  this  book 
to  the  public  is  to  bring  to  the  notice  of  those  unac- 
quainted with  Jamaica  some  of  the  many  attractions 
to  be  found  there,  and  a brief  history  and  descrip- 
tion of  the  same.  It  may  be  truthfully  said  that 
there  are  few  spots  on  the  globe  more  beautiful 
than  some  parts  of  this  island.  The  wonderfully 
blue  water  that  washes  its  shores ; the  stretches  of 
grass  land,  alternating  with  the  tropical  foliage  of 
a vivid  green  never  seen  in  a northern  climate ; the 
background  of  mountains,  whose  tops  are  lost  in 
the  clouds ; and,  over  all,  a tropical  sky  with  its 
peculiarly  soft  and  voluptuous  coloring,  — all  these 
combine  to  form  a picture  of  such  exquisite  loveli- 
ness that  they  are  a revelation  to  the  traveller. 

In  compiling  this  work  the  author  is  indebted  to 
such  works  as  “ Bryan  Edwards’s  History  of  the 
West  Indies,”  “ Government  Handbook  of  Ja- 
maica,” “The  New  Jamaica,”  “Jamaica  at  the 
Columbian  Exposition,”  “ Tourist  Guide  to  the 

iii 


IV 


PREFACE. 


Island  of  Jamaica.”  Also  numerous  magazines 
and  other  articles  too  numerous  to  mention. 

The  author  has  also,  by  the  aid  of  maps  and 
numerous  reproductions  of  photographs  and  rare 
prints,  been  enabled  to  present  the  best  illustrated 
work  on  Jamaica  ever  published. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER.  PAGE. 

I.  The  Voyage i 

II.  Discovery  and  Settlement  by  the  Spaniards  . 7 

III.  Conquered  and  Settled  by  the  English  ...  16 

IV.  Recent  History 31 

V.  Communication  and  Transportation 41 

VI.  Kingston 50 

VII.  Library  and  Museum 60 

VIII.  Places  of  Interest  in  the  Vicinity  of  Kings- 
ton, Castleton  Gardens 69 

IX.  Newcastle,  Gordon  Town,  and  Blue  Mountain 

Peak 77 

X.  Port  Royal 83 

XI.  Cane  River,  Yallahs,-  Morant  Bay,  Bath  and 

Manchioneal 92 

XII.  Spanish  Town 103 

XIII.  Mandeville  and  Montpelier 111 

XIV.  Montego  Bay 121 

XV.  Moneague,  Ocho  Rios,  Roaring  River,  and  St. 

Ann’s  Bay 131 

XVI.  Port  Antonio 139 

XVII.  Agriculture  and  Climate 152 

XVIII.  The  Maroons 165 

XIX.  Inhabitants  and  Government 180 

v 


I L L U S T R A TIONS. 


Port  Royal 

Travellers’  Palm 

Map  of  West  Indies 

Map  of  Jamaica 

Llandovey  Falls 

Portrait  of  Sir  Henry  Morgan  . 

Mango-Tree 

Bog-Walk  Road 

Tom  Cringle’s  Cotton-Tree 

Market  Women,  Kingston  Market  . 

Rio  Coble  River 

Duke  Street 

Theatre  Royal 

Myrtle  Bank  Hotel 

Myrtle  Bank  Garden 

Jubilee  Market,  Kingston 

Map  of  Kingston 

Lawes  Street 

Harbor  Street 

St.  Ann’s  Church. and  Halfway  Tree 

King’s  House 

Road  to  Castleton 

Castleton  Gardens 

Road  to  Newcastle 

King’s  House  Garden 

Earthquake  at  Port  Royal 

Sugar-cane  Cutters 

Interior  of  a Sugar  Factory 

Banana  Women 

Shipping  Bananas,  Port  Antonio 

vii 


. Frontispiece 
facing  page  io 

“ “ 4 

“ “ IS 

“ “ 20 

“ “ 22 

“ “ 26 

“ “ 34 

“ “ 42 

“ “ 46 

“ “ 48 

“ “ 50 

“ “ 52 

“ “ 54 

“ “ 56 

“ “ 58 

“ “ 60 

“ “ 62 

“ “ 66 

“ “ 70 

“ “ 72 

“ “ 74 

“ “ 76 

“ “ 78 

“ “ 84 

“ “ 90 

“ “ 94 

“ “ 96 

“ “ 98 

“ “ 100 


ILL  USTRA  TIONS. 


viii 

Rodney’s  Monument,  Spanish  Town facing  page  104 

Bog  Walk “ “ 106 

Rio  Cobre  Hotel  ....  “ “ 108 

Mandeville “ “ 112 

Market,  Mandeville “ “ 114 

Brooks  Hotel,  Mandeville “ “ 116 

Montpelier  Hotel “ “ 118 

Montego  Bay “ “ 122 

Lucea “ “ 128 

Moneague  Hotel “ “ 132 

Falls  of  Roaring  River “ “ 134 

Port  Maria “ “ 136 

Cocoanut  Palms “ “ 140 

Washing  Clothes  in  the  River “ “ 142 

Port  Antonio “ “ 144 

Harbor  of  Port  Antonio “ “ 148 

Golden  Vale “ “ 150 

Husking  Cocoanuts,  Port  Antonio “ “ 154 

River  Head “ “ 158 

Matha  Brae “ “ 162 

Attack  on  Trelavvney  Town “ “ 168 

Surrender  of  the  Maroons “ “ 174 

Maroon  Town “ “ 176 

Ford “ “ 182 

Stewarts  Town “ “ 186 

Newly  arrived  Coolies “ “ 190 


STARK’S 

ILLUSTRATED  JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  VOYAGE. 

Trips  to  the  Tropics  during  the  winter  season 
are  being  so  generally  recommended  by  physi- 
cians, both  European  and  American,  and  are  such 
an  attractive  and  pleasant  means  of  escaping  our 
bleak  and  inclement  winters,  that  the  writer  has 
been  induced  to  issue  this  book  for  travellers  wish- 
ing to  visit  and  enjoy  the  genial  climate  and  superb 
scenery  of  the  fairest  of  the  West  India  Islands, 
“Jamaica,  the  Gem  of  the  Antilles.”  - Nowhere 
else  so  accessible  to  Americans  can  be  found  such 
a delightful  tropical  winter  resort  with  a summer 
climate.  Unquestionably  it  is  the  most  picturesque 
and  attractive  island  of  the  West  Indian  group. 
Lying  as  it  does  within  the  zone  of  perpetual  sum- 
mer, it  possesses  a climate  unsurpassed  for  genial- 
ity and  charm  as  a winter  resort,  at  a time  when 
the  icy  north  bears  its  most  blustering  and  chilly 
aspect.  Jamaica  also  has  a varied  and  at  the 
same  time  a very  equable  climate.  In  the  low 


2 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


lands  it  is  tropical,  but  on  the  higher  lands  and 
mountains  it  is  much  cooler,  almost  temperate, 
changing  from  an  average  of  78°  on  the  seacoast 
to  between  50°  and  70°  in  the  mountains  ; but  it 
differs  from  our  climate  in  this  — there  are  none 
of  those  sudden  changes  which  are  so  trying  in 
a northern  winter. 

No  other  island  in  the  West  Indies  possesses  such 
frequent  communications  with  the  United  States  and 
Canada,  and  at  such  a moderate  cost,  as  Jamaica, 
on  an  average  one  steamer  a day  leaving  Jamaica 
for  the  American  continent.  The  oldest  and  best 
line  from  New  York  to  Kingston  is  the  Atlas  line, 
and  from  Boston  to  Port  Antonio  the  steamers  of 
the  Boston  Fruit  Company.  From  England  the 
principal  line  is  the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet 
Company. 

The  restorative  effect  of  a sea  voyage  is  recog- 
nized so  universally  that  it  is  not  necessary  to 
further  emphasize  it.  The  drawback  to  most  sea 
voyages  is  that  they  are  either  so  short  as  to  lose 
half  their  salutary  effect,  or  so  long  as  to  become 
monotonous  and  tedious.  A trip  to  Jamaica  strikes 
a happy  medium.  It  is  also  entirely  free  from 
fog,  and  the  traveller  is  exempt  from  the  suffering 
so  frequently  attending  voyages  upon  the  storm- 
tossed  North  Atlantic.  The  West  India  trip  is 
truly  “ a voyage  upon  a summer  sea.”  Leaving 
the  snow-clad  hills  and  the  icy  blasts  of  a coming 
rigorous  winter,  the  traveller  hastens  away  to  the 
home  of  sunshine  and  flowers.  Like  dreams  seem 
the  last  farewell,  as  he  sees  over  the  taffrail  be- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


3 


neath  the  chill  December  sun,  the  fading  form  of 
the  well-beloved  shores,  and  turns  his  head  due 
south  to  chase  the  health-giving  sunbeams  of  the 
Tropics.  In  two  days  we  are  traversing  summer 
seas,  and  begin  to  look  up  our  light  summer  cloth- 
ing. So  far  we  have  probably  experienced  no 
rough  weather,  unless  we  happen  to  start  during  a 
northwester ; before  us  we  have  the  more  tranquil 
waters  of  the  South  Atlantic  and  Caribbean  Sea. 
Flying-fish  begin  now  to  be  a source  of  interest  and 
amusement,  as  they  skim  from  sea  to  sea,  dipping 
their  wings  ever  and  anon  to  plume  themselves  for 
farther  flight.  Then  we  pass  through  large  masses 
of  gulf-weed,  and  think  of  the  memorable  day  when 
Columbus's  ship  first  plunged  her  bows  into  the  tan- 
gled ocean  meadow  now  known  as  the  Saragossa 
Sea,  and  the  sailors  were  ready  to  mutiny,  fearing 
hidden  shoals.  This  gulf-weed  probably  has  its  ori- 
gin on  the  great  Bahama  banks,  and  by  the  great 
ocean  river  that  flows  across  them  is  thrust  away  to 
the  northeast,  where  it  lies  in  a vast  eddy  or  central 
pool ; here  it  revolves  continually,  carrying  with  it 
floating  wrecks  and  debris  of  every  description,  at- 
tached to  which  are  whole  families  of  fish,  — crabs, 
cuttlefish,  and  mollusks. 

The  first  land  sighted  is  Watlings  Island,  which 
was  the  first  land  discovered  by  Columbus  on  this 
continent.  On  a headland,  about  two  hundred 
yards  from  the  beach  on  which  Columbus  is  sup- 
posed to  have  landed,  a monument  has  been  erected 
to  commemorate  this  great  event.  It  was  built  by 
the  Chicago  Herald  at  the  time  of  the  World’s 


4 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Fair,  held  in  Chicago  to  celebrate  the  four  hun- 
dredth anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  America  by 
Columbus.  A few  hours  more  bring  us  to  “ Bird 
Rock  ” with  its  picturesque  lighthouse.  It  is  con- 
nected with  Crooked  Island  by  a low  coral  reef. 
This  island  is  one  of  an  extensive  group  of  islands, 
of  which  Acklin  and  Fortune  Islands  are  the 
largest.  Many  of  the  Loyalists  from  the  Southern 
colonies  settled  here  after  the  American  Revolution. 
In  the  course  of  fifteen  years  after  their  arrival 
here  there  were  forty  plantations,  with  about  three 
thousand  acres  of  cotton  and  one  thousand  negroes. 
Large  quantities  of  cotton  were  raised  here ; but 
the  lands  gradually  wearing  out  in  the  absence  of 
proper  fertilizer,  the  planters  finally  abandoned  its 
cultivation.1 

We  next  come  to  a low  lying  island  on  our  left; 
this  is  Fortune  Island.  It  is  separated  from  Crooked 
Island  by  a small  channel.  The  Atlas  line  steam- 
ers stop  here  to  leave  the  mails,  and  to  embark 
negroes  to  assist  in  discharging  cargoes  in  Central 
American  ports.  Castle  Island,  with  its  lighthouse 
and  flourishing  cocoanut  plantation,  presents  a very 
picturesque  appearance.  As  mariners  pass  through 
Crooked  Island  passage  and  by  the  lighthouses, 
they  are  thankful  that  the  Bahama  Islands  belong 
to  Great  Britain,  for  no  other  country,  except  the 
United  States,  would  think  of  erecting  such  costly 
structures  as  these  lighthouses  are  in  such  a remote 
locality. 

1 For  further  information  concerning  these  islands  see  “ Stark’s  History 
and  Guide  to  the  Bahamas.” 


6 


STARK  S ILLUSTRATED 


We  do  not  see  land  again  till  we  sight  Cuba, 
which  is  about  a half  a day’s  run  from  the  Ba- 
hama Islands.  The  steamer  runs  quite  close  to 
Cape  Maysi  as  we  round  the  eastern  end  of  Cuba. 
The  lighthouse  stands  on  a low,  flat  point  of  land, 
behind  which  rise  the  bold,  precipitous  shores  of 
Cuba,  rising  in  a series  of  terraces  and  beetling 
cliffs  to  the  mountains,  which  rear  their  lofty  peaks 
in  the  background  until  lost  in  the  fleecy  clouds 
that  drift  about  their  summits.  Then  we  see  in 
the  distance  on  our  left  the  splendid  mountains  of 
Hayti,  the  famed  turbulent  negro  republic.  We 
are  now  steaming  through  Spanish  waters,  the  scene 
of  the  halting  of  numerous  steamers  by  the  Span- 
ish gunboats  that  patrol  this  end  of  the  island,  on 
the  lookout  for  filibustering  expeditions,  and  ship- 
ments of  arms  and  supplies  to  the  insurgents.  For 
half  a day  we  steam  along  close  to  the  Cuban  shore, 
so  near  that  we  can  see  the  trees  and  plantations 
without  the  aid  of  a glass.  The  mountains  of  Ja- 
maica now  loom  up  directly  ahead,  clothed  with 
luxuriant  verdure  from  foot  to  crest,  the  latter 
showing  many  sharp  outlines  and  peaks.  Viewed 
from  any  point,  Jamaica,  as  regards  scenery  and 
verdure,  is  a magnificent  island,  and  surpassed  by 
no  island  in  the  world.  Its  volcanic  origin  gives 
grandeur  and  sharpness  to  the  outline  of  the  moun- 
tains which  is  quite  unique.  Mountains  rise  one 
above  another,  clothed  here  with  the  banana  and 
cabbage  palm,  rent  there  by  the  fissures  caused  by 
the  floods  of  the  tropical  rains ; here  rises  a bold 
crag,  there  a wooded  hill ; they  extend  from  the 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


7 


seashore  to  the  lofty  summits  of  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains. The  breeze  blowing  from  the  land  brings 
with  it  a spicy  and  aromatic  odor  as  we  approach 
the  island,  and  our  voyage,  so  pleasant  and  won- 
derful, is  at  an  end  ; and  it  is  not  without  a pang 
of  regret  that  we  hear  the  rattle  of  the  chain  as  it 
spins  through  the  hawse-hole  as  the  anchor  plunges 
to  the  bottom. 


8 


STAA’/T'S  ILL  USER  A TED 


CHAPTER  II. 

DISCOVERY  AND  SETTLEMENT  BY  THE  SPANIARDS. 

The  island  of  Jamaica  was  discovered  by  Co- 
lumbus in  1494.  On  the  25th  of  September,  1493, 
Columbus  left  the  Bay  of  Cadiz  on  his  second  voy- 
age of  discovery;  and  on  the  3d  of  May,  1494, 
while  sailing  in  a southerly  direction  from  Cuba,  he 
came  in  sight  of  “ the  blue  summit  of  a vast  and 
lofty  island  at  a great  distance,  which  began  to 
arise  like  clouds  above  the  horizon.”  Two  days 
later  he  anchored  in  the  harbor  off  the  town,  now 
known  as  Port  Maria,  on  the  northern  coast  of  Ja- 
maica. Some  slight  resistance  was  threatened  by 
the  Indians  who  flocked  in  their  canoes  around  the 
strange  Spanish  ship  ; but  they  were  soon  appeased, 
and  Columbus  anchored  in  the  harbor,  which  he 
thought  the  most  beautiful  of  all  he  had  seen,  and 
to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  “ Santa  Gloria.” 
Leaving  his  anchorage  to  seek  more  sheltered 
waters,  he  put  out  to  sea,  and  sailed  a few  miles  in 
a westerly  direction  to  Ora  Cabecca,  now  written 
Oracabessa.  The  landing  was  not  effected  with- 
out opposition  and  protest  on  the  part  of  the  natives, 
who  were  treated  to  a shower  of  arrows  from  the 
Spanish  crossbows,  and  terrified  into  confused  flight 
by  a huge  bloodhound  keen  to  scent  human  blood. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


9 


On  reaching  the  shore,  Columbus,  in  the  name  of 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  took  formal  possession 
of  his  new  discovery,  which  he  named  Santiago, 
though  it  has  always  been  known  by  its  Indian 
name  of  Xaymaca,  modernized  in  spelling  and  pro- 
nunciation into  Jamaica.  A few  days  sufficed  to 
repair  his  ships  and  to  establish  friendly  intercourse 
with  the  Indians,  and  again  the  voyage  was  contin- 
ued as  far  as  Montego  Bay. 

Two  months  later  he  sailed  leisurely  along  the 
southern  coast  of  Jamaica,  receiving  kindness  and 
hospitality  from  the  natives,  but  making  no  attempt 
to  explore  the  country.  At  Old  Harbor  Bay  the 
chief,  or  cacique,  boarded  his  ship,  accompanied  by 
many  members  of  his  family  and  staff,  and  in  the 
course  of  an  interesting  interview,  proposed  that 
he  himself  and  all  his  family  should  return  with 
Columbus  to  Spain.  The  offer  was  courteously 
declined  ; and  the  journey  was  continued  till,  on  the 
19th  of  August,  Columbus  passed  out  of  sight  of 
Jamaica  to  the  southeastern  extremity  of  what  is 
now  known  as  Morant  Point,  to  which  he  gave  the 
name  of  Cape  Farol.  Thus  ended  the  first  visit  of 
Columbus  to  Jamaica. 

On  the  9th  of  May,  1502,  Columbus  started  on 
his  fourth  and  last  voyage,  with  a fleet  of  four  ships, 
and  crews  of  a hundred  and  fifty  men.  He  was 
then  sixty-six  years  of  age,  and  his  body  bore  traces 
of  the  toil  and  trouble  of  a hard  life. 

But  more  trouble  was  to  come,  and  Jamaica  was 
to  be  the  scene  of  its  patient  endurance.  With  the 
details  of  the  earlier  portion  of  the  voyage  we  are 


IO 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


not  here  concerned,  and  pass  on  to  the  23d  of 
June,  1503,  when,  as  he  himself  wrote,  with  “ his 
people  dismayed  and  down-hearted,  almost  all  his 
anchors  lost,  and  his  vessels  bored  as  full  of  holes 
as  a honeycomb,”  driven  by  opposing  winds  and 
currents,  Columbus  put  into  Puerto  Bueno  (Dry 
Harbor).  On  the  following  day,  failing  to  find 
either  sufficient  food  or  fresh  water,  he  sailed  east- 
ward to  another  harbor,  since  known  as  Don  Chris- 
topher’s Cove.  His  forlorn  and  desperate  condition 
is  thus  described  by  his  greatest  historian:  “ His 
ships,  reduced  to  mere  wrecks,  could  no  longer 
keep  the  sea,  and  were  ready  to  sink  even  in  port. 
He  ordered  them  therefore  to  be  run  aground 
within  a bow-shot  of  the  shore,  and  fastened  to- 
gether side  by  side.  They  soon  filled  with  water 
to  the  decks.  Thatched  cabins  were  then  erected 
at  the  prow  and  stern  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
crews,  and  the  wreck  was  placed  in  the  best  possi- 
ble state  of  defence.  Thus  castled  in  the  sea,  he 
wished  to  be  able  to  repel  any  sudden  attack  of 
the  natives,  and  at  the  same  time  to  keep  his  men 
from  roving  about  the  neighborhood  and  indulging 
in  their  usual  excesses.  No  one  was  allowed  to  go 
on  shore  without  especial  license,  and  the  utmost 
precaution  was  taken  to  prevent  any  offence  being 
given  to  the  Indians.  Any  exasperation  of  them 
might  be  fatal  to  the  Spaniards  in  their  present 
forlorn  situation.  A firebrand  thrown  into  their 
wooden  fortress  might  wrap  it  in  flames,  and  leave 
them  defenceless  amidst  hostile  thousands.” 

Fortunately  the  natives  turned  out  to  be  well  dis- 


Sad  ,i  IdAv  d'|  , 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 1 

posed  to  their  visitors  ; and  for  a time  there  was 
little  difficulty  in  obtaining,  by  exchange  of  orna- 
ments and  other  trifles  of  European  manufacture, 
sufficient  food  to  support  the  shipwrecked  crews. 
But  the  supply  was  not  inexhaustible.  The  country 
indeed  was  fertile  ; but  on  the  other  hand,  the  popu- 
lation was  large,  and  Columbus’s  men  were  both 
hungry  and  fastidious.  Dreading  the  time  when 
the  supplies  of  the  district  should  be  exhausted  and 
his  followers  reduced  to  famine,  Columbus  deter- 
mined on  what  we  may  consider  the  first  explora- 
tion of  Jamaica.  Diego  Mendez,  one  of  the  bravest 
and  most  loyal  of  his  officers,  was  sent  on  a foraging 
expedition  with  three  other  men.  They  travelled 
along  the  coast,  and  a few  miles  inland,  through  the 
present  parishes  of  St.  Ann,  Trelawny,  St.  James, 
and  Hanover.  Friendly  terms  were  made  with  dif- 
ferent chiefs,  — the  names  of  two  of  these,  Huarco 
and  Ameyro,  are  preserved ; and  a regular  sup- 
ply of  food  was  guaranteed  in  exchange  for  fish- 
hooks, knives,  beads,  combs,  and  such  like  articles. 
The  food  to  be  obtained  would  largely  consist  of 
cassava  bread,  fish,  birds,  and  small  animals  some- 
what resembling  rabbits. 

Mendez  returned  from  his  mission  only  to  be 
called  upon  for  more  important  services.  The  sup- 
ply of  provisions  was  of  course  an  immediate  ne- 
cessity ; but  the  greatest  need  was  that  of  means  to 
get  back  to  Spain,  or  at  any  rate  to  get  into  com- 
munication with  Spaniards  who  could  send  ships 
to  the  rescue  of  the  wrecked  mariners.  Accord- 
ingly, with  a small  mixed  crew  of  Spaniards  and 


12 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Indians,  Mendez  was  sent  in  a canoe  to  Hispaniola, 
to  seek  assistance  from  Ovando,  and  to  continue  his 
journey  to  Spain  with  despatches  from  Columbus. 
The  first  attempt  to  accomplish  his  hazardous  un- 
dertaking was  a failure.  Mendez  was  captured  by 
Indians,  and  barely  escaped  with  his  life,  his  com- 
panions being  put  to  death.  The  second  attempt 
was  successful,  but  many  weary  weeks  elapsed  be- 
fore Columbus  heard  of  its  success.  In  the  mean- 
time his  troubles  rapidly  increased.  In  addition  to 
the  ordinary  infirmities  of  old  age  and  the  effects 
of  a life  of  peril  and  exposure,  he  lay  helplessly 
crippled  with  gout  on  board  his  stranded  ship.  His 
men  lost  faith  in  him.  He  had  been  banished,  they 
said,  from  Spain.  His  ships  had  been  forbidden 
to  anchor  in  the  harbors  of  Hispaniola.  Mendez, 
it  was  true,  had  gone  ; but  he  had  been  sent  on 
a secret  mission  to  procure  pardon  for  Columbus, 
who  was  otherwise  exiled  for  life  to  Jamaica.  If 
he  were  willing  to  attempt  to  escape,  his  age  and 
sickness  incapacitated  him  from  risking  a voyage  in 
an  Indian  canoe,  the  only  available  vessel  of  trans- 
port. They  must  take  the  matters  into  their  own 
hands,  and  at  any  rate  secure  their  own  personal 
safety.  They  were  beyond  doubt  ungrateful  and 
unreasonable,  but  men  contemplating  mutiny  take 
little  account  either  of  gratitude  or  of  reason.  The 
mutiny  was  headed  bv  two  brothers,  Francisco  and 
Diego  de  Porras,  the  former  of  whom  was  captain 
of  one  of  the  caravels,  and  the  latter  occupied  the 
position  of  purser  and  accountant-general  of  the 
expedition.  It  is  useless  to  argue  with  determined 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


13 


men.  Columbus  was  for  a moment  in  personal 
clanger,  but  his  life  was  saved  by  the  intervention 
of  his  brother.  The  mutineers  were  permitted  to 
embark  in  ten  canoes,  which  had  been  purchased 
from  the  Indians.  They  coasted  the  north  of  Ja- 
maica, sailing  in  a westerly  direction,  landing  here 
and  there,  pillaging,  and  outraging,  representing 
themselves  as  acting  under  the  orders  of  Columbus. 
Two  attempts  to  cross  to  Hispaniola  failed ; and 
the  mutineers  “wandered  from  village  to  village, 
a dissolute  and  lawless  gang,  supporting  themselves 
by  fair  means  or  foul,  according  as  they  met  with 
kindness  or  hostility,  and  passing  like  a pestilence 
Trough  the  island.”  To  return  to  Columbus,  the 
weight  of  his  troubles  was  daily  increasing.  No 
news  came  of  or  from  Mendez  ; the  supplies  of 
provisions  began  gradually  to  decrease,  until  actual 
starvation  was  within  easy  reach.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances it  was  that  Columbus  had  resort  to  what 
has  since  become  in  fiction,  if  not  in  fact,  a hack- 
neyed and  familiar  trick.  His  knowledge  of  as- 
tronomy enabled  him  to  predict  that  an  eclipse  of 
the  moon  would  take  place  at  a certain  hour.  This 
eclipse,  he  represented,  was  to  be  a sign  that  his 
great  Deity  was  angry  with  the  people  for  not 
continuing  to  supply  him  with  food.  The  eclipse 
came ; the  Indians  were  amazed,  alarmed,  terri- 
fied. Later  on,  apparently  in  reply  to  the  prayers 
of  Columbus,  the  moon  resumed  her  wonted  func- 
tions, and  a plentiful  supply  of  provisions  was  se- 
cured for  the  future. 

Months  passed  before  news  came  from  Mendez. 


14 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


At  last  a ship  anchored  some  distance  from  the 
shore,  and  put  off  a boat.  It  promised  badly  for 
Columbus  when,  as  the  boat  approached  his  wreck, 
he  caught  sight  of  the  ill-omened  features  of  Diego 
de  Escobar,  whom  years  ago  he  had  condemned 
to  death,  who  had  been  pardoned  by  Bobadilla, 
and  partly  in  consequence  of  whose  false  and  vin- 
dictive evidence  Columbus  had  been  displaced  from 
his  command  in  1500.  The  ill  omen  proved  true; 
for  Escobar’s  relief  consisted  of  a cask  of  wine,  a 
flitch  of  bacon,  and  a letter  containing  vague  prom- 
ises of  future  succor.  The  wine  and  bacon  were 
finished  long  before  the  promises  were  kept.  Es- 
cobar’s functions,  in  fact,  had  been  those  of  a spy, 
not  of  a friend. 

Columbus  took  advantage  of  this  reopening  of 
communications  with  the  outer  world  to  bring  back 
into  allegiance  his  rebel  followers,  who  were  dis- 
heartened and  worn  out  by  the  miseries  and  toils 
of  a lawless  and  predatory  life.  Most  of  them 
would  long  before  have  willingly  returned,  but 
they  were  prevented  from  doing  so  by  the  elder 
Porras. 

A sort  of  conference  was  held  at  the  Indian  vil- 
lage of  Maima,  now  known  as  Mammee  Bay,  — a 
conference  which  ended  in  a free  fight,  in  which 
the  rebels  were  defeated,  and  Francisco  de  Porras 
was  taken  prisoner. 

At  last  suspense  was  at  an  end,  as  two  vessels 
were  seen  entering  the  harbor,  — one  sent  from 
Spain  by  the  faithful  Mendez,  and  the  other  from 
Hispaniola  by  the  treacherous  Ovando,  whose  neg- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


IS 


lect  of  Columbus  had  so  roused  public  feeling 
against  him  that  he  was  driven  to  assume  a virtue, 
if  he  had  it  not,  and  to  send  genuine  help  to  the 
unfortunate  discoverer. 

Thus  on  the  28th  of  June,  1504,  after  a visit 
which  was  almost  an  imprisonment  of  upwards  of 
twelve  months,  Columbus  left  Jamaica.  There  is 
much  that  is  pathetic  about  this  twelve  months’  stay 
in  Jamaica.  It  is  extremely  doubtful  whether  Co- 
lumbus ever  left  the  shelter  of  his  stranded  ships. 
He  was  an  old  man  when  he  came;  toil,  injustice, 
anxiety,  disappointment,  had  intensified  the  natural 
infirmities  of  old  age  ; gout  kept  him  crippled  in 
his  cabin;  and,  leaving  Jamaica,  he  went  home  to 
die. 

Coldly  received  by  the  people  for  the  pride  of 
whose  nationality  he  had  done  so  much,  almost 
friendless,  poverty-stricken,  his  health  ruined,  and 
his  spirits  crushed,  he  lingered  for  two  years  be- 
fore death  mercifully  set  him  free  to  embark  on  the 
last  and  greatest  of  his  voyages. 

Columbus  died  at  Seville  on  the  20th  of  May, 
1506,  in  the  seventieth  year  of  his  age,  not  know- 
ing, even  to  the  last,  that  he  was  the  discoverer  of  a 
new  and  vast  continent,  which  was  to  take  its  name 
not  from  him,  but  from  one  of  his  companions. 


5 TALK  'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


16 


CHAPTER  III. 

CONQUERED  AND  SETTLED  BY  THE  ENGLISH. 

Jamaica,  thus  discovered  and  acquired,  remained 
in  the  possession  of  Spain  for  upwards  of  a century 
and  a half.  It  has  been  said  that  the  transactions 
of  the  Spaniards  during  this  period,  as  far  as  Ja- 
maica is  concerned,  have  scarcely  obtained  any 
notice  in  history ; to  this  may  be  added,  that,  when 
the  island  was  added  to  the  British  possessions  in 
the  west,  there  were  few  traces  that  any  solid  and 
reasonable  effort  had  been  made  by  the  first  con- 
querors of  Jamaica  to  utilize  their  opportunity  for 
the  good  of  the  conquered  province.  This  period 
is  mainly  memorable  for  the  complete  annihilation, 
often  by  methods  pitilessly  cruel  and  revoltingly 
ruthless,  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  Jamaica, 
of  which  more  will  be  said  in  another  chapter. 

Turning  now  from  the  original  inhabitants  to  the 
first  conquerors  of  Jamaica,  the  actual  remains  at 
the  present  day  of  the  Spanish  occupation  are  almost 
entirely  confined  to  a few  names  and  a few  stones. 

The  site  of  the  first  capital  of  the  island,  Sevilla 
Nueva,  founded  by  Diego  Columbus,  son  of  the 
discoverer,  is  marked  only  by  a few  stones  on  the 
estate  of  Seville,  near  St.  Ann’s  Bay.  In  the  town 
of  Porus  we  have  perpetuated  the  name  of  the  two 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 7 

brothers  Porras,  who  headed  the  mutiny  against  Co- 
lumbus. In  the  Pedro  Plains  and  the  Pedro  River 
survives  the  name  of  Don  Pedro  de  Esquimel,  one 
of  the  most  brutal  and  cruel  of  the  oppressors  of 
the  Indians  ; and  many  other  names,  both  of  Span- 
ish and  of  Indian  origin,  remain,  among  the  latter 
being  the  name  Jamaica  itself.  The  abandonment 
of  Sevilla  Nueva,  for  reasons  which  can  only  be 
conjectured,  led  to  the  settlement  and  building  of 
Spanish  Town,  or,  as  it  was  then  called,  of  St.  Jago 
de  la  Vega;  but  the  Spanish  Town  which  we  now 
know  contains  few  traces,  if  any,  of  its  original 
buildings. 

The  Spaniards  themselves  seem  to  have  been 
happy  and  contented.  The  climate  was  pleasant 
and  unoppressive ; the  soil  was  rich,  and  yielded 
delicious  fruits  in  abundance.  If  the  Spaniards  in 
Jamaica  did  not  make  the  huge  fortunes  acquired 
by  their  countrymen  in  Cuba  or  Hayti,  or  by  those 
who  settled  in  the  mining  districts  of  Mexico  and 
South  America,  at  any  rate  they  were  satisfied  to 
live  a lazy,  luxurious,  lotos-eatiug  existence,  far 
away  from  the  home  troubles  and  turmoils,  looking 
on  Jamaica  rather  as  their  actual  than  as  their 
adopted  home. 

In  1590  Sir  Anthony  Shirley,  an  Englishman, 
attacked  the  island  and  burned  St.  Jago,  the  capi- 
tal, but  did  not  choose  to  follow  up  his  conquest. 
Upon  the  retirement  of  the  English,  the  Spaniards 
repaired  Spanish  Town,  and  were  then  unmolested 
by  foreign  foe  till  1635.  That  year  Colonel  Jackson 
sailed  with  a small  fleet  to  the  Windward  Islands, 


l8 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


and  thence  to  Jamaica,  where,  with  five  hundred 
men,  he  attacked  a garrison  of  two  thousand  Span- 
iards at  Passage  Fort,  and  after  a hot  fight,  in 
which  seven  hundred  Spaniards  are  said  to  have 
been  killed,  utterly  routed  the  settlers. 

Having  visited  Spanish  Town  and  extorted  ran- 
som, Jackson  followed  Shirley’s  example  and  re- 
tired. But  a few  years  later  Jamaica  was  again 
taken,  and  this  time  to  remain  in  possession  of  the 
English. 

To  inquire  minutely  into  all  the  causes  which 
led  to  the  acquisition  of  Jamaica  by  Great  Britain, 
would  necessitate  a close  review  of  the  relations 
between  England  and  Spain  during  the  first  half 
century  of  the  Stuart  dynasty.  It  is  enough  here 
to  state,  that  James  I.  and  Charles  I.  had  both  given 
way  too  tamely  and  too  timidly  to  Spanish  claims 
and  pretensions,  and  that  the  honor  of  England,  the 
protection  of  her  commerce,  and  the  safety  of  her 
subjects,  made  it  imperative  on  Cromwell’s  govern- 
ment to  protect  British  interests  and  lives  in  the  West 
Indies.  Accordingly  an  expedition  was  equipped 
and  armed,  and  left  England  in  the  fall  of  1654. 
The  general  instructions  given  to  the  leaders  of  this 
expedition  were  “ to  obtain  establishment  in  that 
part  of  the  West  Indies  which  is  possessed  by  the 
Spaniards.” 

A fine  fleet  was  fitted,  aboard  of  which  were 
“two  thousand  old  Cavaliers  and  as  many  of  Oli- 
ver’s army."  The  commanders  were  Colonel  Ven- 
ables and  Admiral  Penn,  the  father  of  William 
Penn,  who  got  one  thousand  three  hundred  more 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


19 


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STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


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JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


*9 


adventurers  at  Barbadoes  and  the  Windward  Is- 
lands. With  such  an  army,  good  ships,  and  able 
officers,  they  attacked  St.  Jago,  after  an  unsuccess- 
ful expedition  against  Hispaniola.  In  May,  1655, 
St.  Jago  capitulated  to  this  force,  its  forts  and  de- 
fences proving  all  inadequate  against  the  munitions 
of  the  invaders.  But  while  parleying  and  amusing 
the  English  with  fair  speeches  and  presents,  the 
Spaniards  contrived  to  remove  much  of  their  treas- 
ure from  St.  Jago;  and  the  same  is  supposed  by 
treasure  seekers  and  other  romantic  people  to  be 
hid  to  this  day  in  wells  and  other  safe  places  in  the 
neighborhood. 

After  the  English  had  gained  the  city,  they  were 
afraid  of  the  foe,  who  still  retained  possession  of  the 
country,  and  greatly  harassed  them  by  sudden  sor- 
ties and  skirmishes.  At  length,  however,  the  con- 
quest was  complete.  The  last  Spanish  governor 
fled  to  Cuba  from  a point  on  the  north  side  of  Ja- 
maica still  known  as  Runaway  Bay.  From  this 
time  British  rule  was  permanently  established. 

When  Admiral  Penn  and  Colonel  Venables  re- 
turned to  England,  they  left  in  charge  of  the  colony 
Colonel  D’Oyley,  whose  command  included  nearly 
three  thousand  men  and  twenty  war  vessels.  D’Oy- 
ley was  a brave  and  excellent  leader.  It  was 
through  him  that  the  last  remnant  of  the  Spaniards 
was  driven  from  the  island.  But  they  left  behind 
them  a number  of  slaves,  probably  of  mixed  Indian 
and  African  blood,  who,  being  fierce  and  warlike, 
took  to  the  mountain  fastnesses,  and  became  bandits, 
preying  upon  the  fields,  and  endangering  the  per- 


20 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


sons  of  the  new  settlers.  D’Oyley  succeeded  in 
subduing  them  for  a time  ; but  he  left  a few  individ- 
uals, who  in  later  years  grew  to  be  powerful,  and 
greatly  harassed  the  colony.  A remnant  of  them 
is  still  left,  peacefully  enjoying  the  privileges  and 
immunities  which  they  formerly  wrested  from  the 
government.  They  are  known  as  the  Maroons. 

Cromwell  fitted  a second  squadron,  and  sent  Major 
Sedjwick  to  relieve  Colonel  D’Oyley.  Before  Sedj- 
wick’s  arrival,  D’Oyley  suppressed  a mutiny  among 
his  men,  shooting  the  ringleaders. 

The  new  governor  lived  but  a few  days  after  his 
arrival,  and  the  popular  Cavalier  again  resumed  the 
direction  of  affairs. 

Cromwell  then  appointed  Colonel  Brayne  of  Scot- 
land, with  orders  to  colonize  one  thousand  Round- 
heads  from  Port  Patrick  to  balance  the  Royalists  of 
D'Oyley’s  party.  But  Colonel  Brayne  followed 
Sedjwick,  and  for  the  third  time  D’Oyley  ruled. 
He  was  a wise  and  energetic  leader,  governing  with 
forethought  and  prudence.  Having  been  twice 
supplanted  by  Cromwell  because  he  was  a Royal- 
ist, he  was  finally  removed  by  Charles  II.  upon  his 
accession  to  the  throne  to  make  place  for  the  royal 
favorite,  Lord  Windsor  ; leaving  so  good  a reputa- 
tion, however,  that  he  was  long  looked  upon  as  the 
best  of  the  governors. 

The  new  governor  did  little  ; but  to  quote  Charles 
Leslie’s  venerable  history,  “ In  my  Lord  Windsor’s 
government  the  Island  was  in  a very  flourishing 
condition,  for  by  this  time  the  buccaneers  had  be- 
gun their  trade  of  pyrating  and  made  money  -pi en- 


LLANDQVEY  FALLS. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


21 


tiful About  this  time,  too,  there  were  many 
wealthy  men  who  came  from  other  islands  to  settle 
in  Jamaica.  Among  these  was  Sir  Thomas  Mod- 
diford,  afterwards  governor. 

Sir  Charles  Littleton  followed  Windsor,  the  latter 
being  removed  finally  at  the  earnest  protest  of  the 
Spaniards,  who  complained  bitterly  of  the  part  he 
took  in  protecting  the  pirates.  Under  Littleton  the 
first  concessions  were  made  to  the  Maroons,  grants 
of  land  and  magisterial  power  being  given  to  Juan 
de  Lolas,  their  leader.  The  governor  also  issued 
writs  for  the  first  general  assembly  held  upon  the 
island. 

Members  were  returned  from  twelve  districts,  and 
met  at  Santiago  de  la  Vega  (now  Spanish  Town), 
where  they  indulged  in  great  conviviality,  if  we 
may  trust  the  older  histories. 

This  first  assembly  was  dissolved  by  Deputy  Gov- 
ernor Sir  Edward  Morgan.  Following  him  came 
Moddiford,  whose  rule,  says  one  of  the  chronicles, 
“brought  the  Island  to  its  greatest  perfection.” 
The  population  was  then  17,298  inhabitants.  Money 
was  plenty,  immigration  increased,  and  affairs  were 
generally  in  a prosperous  condition.  Writs  were 
issued  for  a new  council,  which  proved  to  be  rather 
combative  in  its  temper  than  deliberative.  One  of 
its  members  murdered  another  at  a state  dinner. 

While  the  assembly  were  quarrelling,  the  gover- 
nor, on  his  own  responsibility,  was  amusing  him- 
self by  granting  commissions  and  letters  of  marque 
to  the  pirates  who  already  swarmed  the  Spanish 
Main.  These  were  to  annoy  the  fleets  of  Spain. 


22 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


No  chapter  in  the  world’s  annals  presents  more 
appropriate  material  for  modern  melodrama  than 
the  lives  of  the  buccaneers. 

Bartholomew,  a Portuguese,  was  the  first  bucca- 
neer of  note,  and  achieved  some  brilliant  successes, 
but  was  soon  overshadowed  by  others.  Brafiliano, 
a Dutchman,  took  some  valuable  prizes,  and  greatly 
harassed  the  Spaniards.  Lewis  Scott  was  the  first 
to  land  a force  on  Spanish  territory,  and  engage  in 
terrestrial  warfare,  one  of  his  acts  being  the  sack 
of  Campeche.  Mansvelt  took  the  Island  of  St. 
Catharine,  and  wanted  to  hold  it  under  colonial 
protection  as  a pirate  rendezvous.  He  extorted  a 
great  ransom.  The  redoubtable  John  Davis  carried 
fire  and  sword  into  Nicaragua  and  St.  Augustine, 
retiring  with  immense  booty.  But  the  greatest  of 
all  the  buccaneers  was  Henry  Morgan.  The  son 
of  a poor  Welsh  farmer,  sold  into  servitude  in  Bar- 
badoes,  and  serving  his  term  of  slavery  as  a laborer, 
he  impressed  upon  his  time  a romantic  enthusiasm 
for  his  deeds  and  personality.  Although  greatly 
admired  and  copied  by  other  privateers,  Morgan  is 
said  by  his  biographers  to  have  been  unlike  them, 
though  in  what  the  dissimilarity  consisted  we  of  a 
later  day  may  be  too  dull  to  discover. 

By  his  followers  were  committed  cruelties  unex- 
ampled ; yet  he  is  spoken  of  as  being  on  a moral 
plane  far  above  such  men  as  Mansvelt,  with  whom, 
by  the  way,  he  sailed  as  vice-admiral  in  the  latter’s 
successful  expedition  against  St.  Catharine.  Mor- 
gan, upon  the  death  of  Mansvelt,  became  the  great 
pirate  leader.  He  never  sailed  without  a commis- 


This  portrait  was  reproduced  from  a work  published  in  London 
in  1C84,  by  John  Esquemeling,  one  of  the  Buccaneers. 


24 


ST  A RK  'S  ILL  US  TRA  TED 


sion,  however ; and  so  over  his  colossal  barbarities 
was  thrown  the  cloak  of  authority,  and  expeditions 
for  pillage  and  rapine  were  dignified  as  naval  en- 
counters and  invasions. 

In  1670,  with  an  army  of  twelve  hundred  men 
and  a numerous  fleet,  he  attacked  the  town  of  Pan- 
ama, then  very  rich,  was  victorious  over  the  army 
that  was  sent  against  him,  and  secured  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  mule  loads  of  precious  metal. 
Of  this  plunder  his  crew  received  only  two  hundred 
pieces  of  eight  each,  and  mutinied  ; whereupon  this 
intrepid  leader  stole  away  with  treasure  to  the  value 
of  £25,000. 

The  immense  wealth  at  this  period  brought  into 
Port  Royal,  the  thousands  of  freebooters  whose 
money,  bought  with  blood,  was  spent  in  crime,  the 
cargoes  of  merchant  fleets  brought  to  its  stalls,  and 
the  ransom  of  provinces  paid  into  its  coffers,  made 
this  city  enormously  wealth}-.  Its  state  was  bar- 
baric, but  splendid.  No  form  of  vice  was  wanting, 
no  indulgence  too  extravagant  for  its  lawless  popu- 
lation. 

One  of  the  curious  contradictions  of  history  oc- 
curred about  here.  Sir  Thomas  Moddiford  was 
relieved,  and  sailed  for  England  as  a prisoner,  to 
answer  for  the  offence  of  exceeding  his  authority 
in  commissioning  Morgan.  About  the  same  time 
Morgan  was  knighted  for  his  victory  at  Panama, 
and  was  thereafter  known  as  Sir  Henry  Morgan, 
the  wealthy  planter,  the  foe  of  the  pirates,  and  the 
friend  to  law  and  order. 

Six  years  later  Morgan,  as  lieutenant-governor, 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


25 


assumed  control  of  Jamaica’s  affairs,  and  was  ex- 
ceedingly popular. 

Over  a thousand  Dutchmen  immigrated  from 
Surinam  in  South  America  to  the  island  in  1672. 
They  were  of  industrious  habits,  and  added  to  the 
colony’s  prosperity.  A general  awakening  to  in- 
dustry resulted  in  the  first  shipment  of  sugar  to 
England,  the  beginning  of  a trade  which  was  for 
years  the  fruitful  source  of  wealth  to  the  colony, 
and  which  a century  later  brought  Jamaica  to  the 
zenith  of  her  prosperity. 

The  final  crushing  of  the  pirates,  and  the  un- 
popularity consequent  upon  the  financial  depression 
which  followed,  belonged  to  Lord  Vaughn,  who 
recalled  the  buccaneers’  commissions,  and  hung  a 
great  many  of  these  marauders,  thus  effectually 
suppressing  the  dreadful  business.  It  was  at  that 
time  that  the  Royal  African  Company  gained  their 
charter,  which  gave  them  every  advantage  upon  the 
high  seas,  so  that  the  Jamaica  slave-trade  was  seri- 
ously interfered  with,  and  the  price  of  human  flesh 
rose  enormously. 

In  1678  the  Earl  of  Carlisle  summoned  a new 
assembly.  Both  he  and  his  successors  were  per- 
petually in  hot  water,  standing  often  between  the 
colony  and  the  mother  country  on  questions  of 
financial  policy  principally. 

When  the  Duke  of  Albemarle  came,  he  estab- 
lished a claim  to  historic  mention  by  bringing  with 
him  a great  man,  Sir  Hans  Sloane,  the  naturalist. 
The  work  of  this  extraordinary  person,  though 
accomplished  before  the  discovery  of  our  modern 


26 


STARK  ’S  ILLUSTRATED 


system  of  classification  in  natural  history,  was  of 
immense  benefit  to  science,  and  stands  to-day  a 
monument  and  a landmark  in  the  history  of  moral 
degradation,  intellectual  barrenness,  political  errors, 
and  mercantile  obliquity. 

The  flight  of  James  II.,  and  the  accession  of 
William  and  Mary  to  the  throne  of  England,  in- 
tensified for  a time  the  political  differences,  which 
never  were  allowed  to  die.  Certain  acts,  inimical 
it  was  claimed  to  the  interests  of  Jamaica,  were 
repealed,  and  the  constitution  restored,  which  had 
been  changed  in  Albemarle’s  time.  To  give  the 
details  of  the  perpetual  wrangling  which  agitated 
Jamaica’s  rulers  year  after  year  would  be  neither 
interesting  nor  instructive. 

The  Earl  of  Inchequin,  who  took  charge  in  1690, 
varied  the  usual  order  of  quarrel  by  sending  the 
war-ships  Severn  and  Guernsey  to  retaliate  upon 
the  French,  who  had  been  annoying  the  seacoast 
inhabitants  of  the  island.  These  vessels  took  val- 
uable prizes  in  Hispaniola.  But  Inchequin  did  not 
live  to  enjoy  the  prestige  which  such  success  usu- 
ally brings. 

We  now  come  to  one  of  the  most  memorable 
events  in  Jamaican  annals.  On  the  7th  of  June, 
1692,  a great  earthquake  shook  the  island,  and  al- 
most totally  destroyed  the  metropolis.  Mountains 
were  riven  ; earth  and  rock  fell  upon  the  valleys, 
burying  the  people  ; hamlets  were  ingulfed  ; planta- 
tions obliterated  ; and  rivers  turned  into  new  chan- 
nels. 

The  terrible  retribution  that  overtook  Port  Royal 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


27 


in  three  or  four  brief  minutes  of  time  can  be  only 
compared  in  magnitude  to  the  unexampled  record 
of  her  debauchery.  It  was  a disaster  which  in  a 
moment  transformed  the  richest  spot  on  earth  to 
the  poorest.  Even  Lisbon’s  fate  could  not  com- 
pare with  the  complete  overthrow  of  the  Jamaican 
capital.  Leslie  says:  “At  the  Time  when  the 
Island  was  full  of  Gay  Hopes,  Wallowing  in 
Riches,  and  Abandoned  to  Wickedness,  the  most 
dreadful  Calamity  befel  it  that  ever  happened  to  a 
people,  and  which  many  look  upon  as  a tremen- 
dous judgment  of  the  Almighty.  On  the  7th  of 
June,  1692,  one  of  the  most  violent  earthquakes 
happened  that  perhaps  was  ever  felt.  It  began  be- 
tween 11  and  12  o’clock  at  noon,  shook  down  and 
drowned  nine-tenths  of  Port  Royal  in  two  minutes 
time  ; all  the  wharves  of  Port  Royal  sunk  at  once. 
There  were  soon  several  Fathoms  of  Water  where 
the  Streets  stood ; and  that  one  which  suffered  the 
least  Damage  was  so  overflowed  that  the  Water 
swelled  as  high  as  the  Upper  Rooms  of  the  Houses.” 
Added  to  all  the  other  horrors,  the  unburied  dead 
which  lay  in  heaps  upon  the  land  or  floated  in  shoals 
in  the  harbor  became  in  a little  while,  under  the 
tropic  sun,  horrible  masses  of  putrefaction  ; generat- 
ing a pestilence  from  which  thousands  of  those  who 
had  survived  the  earthquake  died. 

The  overthrow  of  Port  Royal  led  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  city  of  Kingston,  on  the  Liguanea 
Plain,  upon  property  belonging  to  Colonel,  after- 
wards Sir  William,  Beeston.  The  city  was  laid  out 
by  Sir  Christian  Lilly,  of  the  Royal  Engineers. 


28 


STARK  'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


Shortly  after  these  events  Beeston  assumed  the 
government  ( in  1693 ) . It  was  then  that  the  French 
were  peculiarly  active  and  annoying.  They  had 
burned  plantations  in  Jamaica,  and  taken  away 
slaves  to  the  value  of  £65 ,000.  The  colonial  militia 
finally  succeeded  in  defeating  these  invaders  on  the 
land,  driving  them  back  to  their  ships  with  loss ; 
but  on  the  water  the  French  were  victorious,  and 
the  great  English  Admiral,  Benbow,  was  defeated, 
dying  from  his  wounds  in  Kingston  shortly  after- 
wards. 

During  several  administrations  the  usual  succes- 
sion of  legislative  Doubles  engaged  the  attention  of 
the  governors.  The  picaroons  from  Cuba  created 
a diversion  in  the  time  of  Sir  Nicholas  Lawes,  by 
committing  many  depredations  ; and  the  embarrass- 
ment thus  caused  to  agriculture  was  further  aug- 
mented by  a hurricane,  which  destroyed  both  lives 
and  property.  Yet  the  government  could  hardly 
leave  its  wrangling  over  the  question  of  a perma- 
nent revenue-bill  long  enough  to  take  proper  meas- 
ures for  the  relief  of  the  sufferers. 

Then  followed  a ruler  whose  course  of  conduct, 
being  in  marked  contrast  to  those  who  had  pre- 
ceded him,  demands  recognition.  Major-General 
Robert  Hunter,  learning  that  he  was  about  to  re- 
ceive the  appointment  to  Jamaica,  actually  took 
pains  to  inform  himself  of  the  condition  of  the 
country  and  people  to  which  he  was  going ; and  so 
effectually  presented  their  case  and  cause  to  their 
Majesties’  ministers  as  to  win  certain  concessions 
for  them.  The  Jamaica  assembly,  feeling  that  the 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


29 


country  had  a friend  in  the  new  governor,  promptly 
passed  the  much  discussed  bill,  granting  a perma- 
nent revenue  of  £8,000  per  annum  to  the  crown  ; 
receiving  in  return  the  confirmation  of  their  laws 
for  which  they  had  been  fighting.  Besides  this, 
the  governor’s  salary  was  increased  from  £5,000 
to  £6,000  as  a token  of  gratitude  for  his  services, 
at  which  sum  it  has  remained  to  the  present  time. 

In  1739  the  war  between  England  and  Spain  called 
out  a volunteer  force  from  Jamaica  to  assist  against 
the  South  American  ports.  The  expedition  in  which 
they  engaged  led  to  the  surrender  of  the  Spanish 
American  towns  of  Chagres  and  Porto  Bello. 

During  Trelawney’s  administration  in  1744,  an- 
other earthquake  shook  Port  Royal,  and  a great  hur- 
ricane and  tidal  wave  swept  Savana  la  Mar,  so  that 
the  place,  people,  houses,  and  cattle  were  utterly 
destroyed. 

Governor  Knowls,  in  1751,  was  burned  in  effigy 
for  some  differences  with  the  House.  In  1760  a 
slave  insurrection  broke  out  in  the  parish  of  St. 
Mary  ; whole  families  of  white  planters  were  butch- 
ered by  the  insurgents  ; and  it  was  only  after  a bat- 
tle in  which  four  hundred  of  them  were  killed,  that 
peace  was  restored.  The  ringleaders  were  shot  or 
hung  in  chains,  and  many  of  the  others  transported. 

In  1762  Governor  Lyttleton  brought  news  of  an- 
other war  between  Spain  and  England.  An  expe- 
dition sent  against  Havana  was  successful,  and  the 
city  capitulated.  Besides  this  victory,  the  capture 
of  twelve  ships  of  the  line  and  a fleet  of  merchant- 
men swelled  the  amount  of  booty  to  £2,000,000, 
and  made  Jamaica  rich  once  more. 


30 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


In  the  time  of  Elletson,  who  succeeded  Lyttleton, 
another  negro  outbreak  occurred  in  Hanover  and 
Westmoreland  ; it  was  stamped  out,  and  thirty  ring- 
leaders were  hanged.  Soon  after  this  the  political 
world  was  agitated  over  the  American  War  for  In- 
dependence,  the  recognition  of  the  United  States  by 
France,  and  the  consequent  war  between  that  coun- 
try and  Great  Britain.  Martial  law  was  proclaimed 
in  Jamaica,  and  the  principal  ports  of  the  island 
were  fortified.  Nelson,  who  was  then  commander 
of  Fort  Charles,  volunteered  in  an  expedition  against 
Nicaragua,  and  nearly  lost  his  life.  Admiral  Rod- 
ney, Jamaica’s  best  loved  hero,  won  a great  victory 
over  the  French  Admiral,  De  Grasse  ; saving  the 
island  from  a troublesome  foe,  and  winning  for 
himself  the  thanks  of  his  sovereign  and  his  eleva- 

<D 

tion  to  a peerage.  Rodney’s  statue,  by  John  Bacon, 
now  occupies  a prominent  position  in  the  public 
square  at  Spanish  Town. 

Following  these  troublesome  times  Jamaica  was 
plagued  with  famine  and  swept  with  hurricanes  for 
the  space  of  several  years. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


31 


CHAPTER  IV. 

RECENT  HISTORY. 

During  the  eighteenth  century  the  population  of 
the  island  had  greatly  increased  ; and,  as  towards  the 
close  of  the  seventeenth,  the  great  wealth  brought  by 
the  buccaneers  had  given  a dazzling,  though  tem- 
porary and  fictitious,  prosperity  to  Jamaica ; so  the 
closing  decades  of  the  eighteenth  saw  this  wealth 
and  luxury  repeated  upon  the  apparently  more  staple 
foundation  of  agriculture  and  commerce. 

In  spite  of  legislative  brawls,  the  dangers  result- 
ing from  an  isolated,  almost  defenceless  condition, 
the  “ Gem  of  the  Antilles”  was  enjoying  her  age  of 
gold  at  the  commencement  of  the  present  century. 

During  the  eighteenth  century  the  importation  of 
human  cattle  from  Africa  reached  six  hundred  thou- 
sand souls.  The  mortality  among  them  must  have 
been  very  great;  for  in  spite  of  their  natural  ten- 
dency to  increase,  the  close  of  the  slave-trade  found 
barely  half  that  number  on  the  island.  Bryan  Ed- 
wards says  : “ It  appears  to  me  that  the  British  slave- 
trade  had  attained  its  highest  pitch  of  prosperity  a 
short  time  before  the  American  war  ” (the  War  for 
Independence  is  referred  to).  The  number  of  ships 
that  sailed  from  England  to  the  coast,  engaged  in 
the  nefarious  business  of  slave-trading,  in  1771  was 


32 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


196  ; and  the  total  number  taken  to  British  colonies 
in  that  year  (of  which  Jamaica  took  the  lion’s  share) 
was  47,146.  The  treatment  these  poor  creatures 
received  at  the  hands  of  their  masters  was  often 
brutal,  and  nearly  always,  to  state  it  mildly,  un- 
sympathetic. This  will  be  referred  to  later  on  as 
one  of  the  potent  causes  of  difficulty  between  the 
different  classes  of  the  popnlation. 

A mutiny  among  the  troops  occurred  during  Wil- 
liam, Duke  of  Manchester’s  administration  of  the 
government,  and  troubles  multiplied.  Wars  inter- 
fered with  commerce,  storms  devastated  the  plan- 
tations, and  the  agitation  over  the  slave  question 
became  more  and  more  violent. 

The  bitter  feeling  of  the  planters  against  the  Im- 
perial Government  on  account  of  the  slave  question 
resulted  in  a threat  to  unite  with  the  United  States. 
The  excitement  spread  to  the  slaves.  An  outbreak 
and  bloodshed  was  the  result,  and  martial  law  was 
proclaimed.  During  the  Earl  of  Musgrave’s  rule, 
the  colony  denied  the  right  of  the  Imperial  Govern- 
ment to  legislate  for  Jamaica.  A long  controversy 
ensued,  resulting  in  the  passing  of  the  Emancipation 
Act,  which  provided  that,  “ From  and  after  the  1st  of 
August,  1834,  the  slaves  in  the  colonial  posses- 
sion of  Great  Britain  should  be  forever  free,  but 
subject  to  an  intermediate  state  of  six  years  appren- 
ticeship for  praedials,  and  four  years  for  domestics.” 

In  1838  and  1840  the  negroes  of  Jamaica,  through 
the  exertions  of  the  venerated  Wilberforce  and 
others,  became  freedmen.  In  the  early  years  of 
one  of  the  greatest  reigns  that  England  has  known, 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


33 


this  attempt  was  made  to  right  a great  wrong.  In 
the  fifty  years  that  had  intervened,  the  experiment 
has  been  working,  at  first  very  slowly  because  of 
dense  ignorance  and  great  misunderstanding  on 
both  sides,  but  latterly  more  rapidly  toward  its  legi- 
timate conclusion. 

Emancipation  found  the  planters  in  a pitiable  con- 
dition financially.  The  majority  were  debtors  to 
English  houses.  The  £5,853,975  sterling  awarded 
as  compensation  for  the  loss  of  their  human  prop- 
erty, insufficient  as  the  sum  was,  went  for  the  most 
part  into  the  hands  of  their  creditors.  They  were 
left  without  resources,  with  over-worked  estates, 
antiquated  machinery,  scarcity  of  labor,  and  a poor 
market. 

Lord  Sligo,  who  arrived  in  1835,  found  his  part 
in  an  impoverished  country  a thankless  one.  He 
soon  gave  place  to  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe,  who  suc- 
ceeded in  restoring  peace  between  Jamaica  and  the 
mother  country.  He  retired  in  1842. 

During  these  years  further  misfortunes  visited 
the  planters.  In  slavery  times  the  English  Govern- 
ment, by  heavy  differential  duty  on  foreign  sugar, 
protected  Jamaica.  But  the  adoption  of  a free-trade 
policy  a few  years  after  the  emancipation  reduced 
the  price  of  sugar  one-half  to  the  English  customer, 
and  made  the  planter’s  profit  correspondingly  lighter 
at  a time  when  he  could  ill  afford  any  diminution 
of  income.  Abolition  had  cut  down  the  labor  sup- 
ply. Free  trade  had  further  diminished  the  chance 
for  profit  in  sugar-growing.  Estates  were  heavily 
mortgaged,  and  many  were  abandoned. 


34 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


The  history  of  the  colony  from  this  time  on  to 
the  outbreak  of  1865  consists  of  little  else  beyond  a 
series  of  political  disputes  and  disagreements  be- 
tween the  Executive  and  the  Legislature,  accom- 
panied with  a bitterness  which  could  not  fail  to 
have  a disastrous  result  on  the  well-being  of  the 
country.  When  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe  was  governor, 
it  is  true,  much  was  done  to  reconcile  these  differ- 
ences : he  succeeded  in  restoring  the  affection  for 
the  mother  country,  which,  in  the  case  of  a large 
number  of  colonists,  had  been  alienated  by  recent 
events  ; and  he  left  the  colony,  after  passing  a num- 
ber of  useful  laws,  greatly  regretted  by  all.  He 
was  succeeded  by  Lord  Elgin,  during  whose  admin- 
istration much  was  done  to  improve  the  general 
condition  of  the  island.  Coolie  immigration  was 
commenced,  new  breeds  of  cattle  were  introduced, 
and  the  Jamaica  railway  was  opened. 

In  1865,  while  Mr.  Edward  John  Eyre  was  gov- 
ernor of  Jamaica,  a storm  which  had  been  long 
gathering  burst  upon  the  island  in  the  shape  of  a 
negro  uprising,  which  will  be  more  fully  described 
elsewhere  in  this  work. 

The  year  of  the  insurrection,  financial  affairs 
were  at  their  lowest  ebb.  In  September,  less  than 
a month  before  the  outbreak,  the  colonial  treasury 
showed  a deficit  of  about  £80,000 ; and  this  was 
followed  by  unusual  expenses  due  to  that  affair. 
To  cover  this  a rum-duty,  house-tax,  and  various 
tariff  burdens  were  imposed.  Trade  licenses  were 
required  to  be  purchased  by  those  engaged  in  cer- 
tain branches  of  business.  The  result  of  these 


Bog  Walk  Road. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


35 


necessary  enactments  was  a temporary  revival  of 
the  treasury.  Three  years  after  Governor  Eyre’s 
departure,  there  was  a surplus  of  £5,599. 

The  year  1868  should  be  a red-letter  one  in  Ja- 
maican annals.  It  was  the  turn  of  the  tide,  the 
dawning  that  came  after  the  darkest  night,  the  year 
of  the  first  surplus,  the  year  of  the  first  fruit-ship- 
ment from  Port  Antonio,  of  the  revival  of  coolie 
immigration,  of  the  first  cinchona-planting  on  the 
Blue  Mountains. 

Sir  Peter  Grant  was  then  governor.  Through- 
out the  whole  of  his  administration  of  government, 
there  was  an  annual  surplus  in  the  treasury.  Re- 
porting on  the  financial  situation  in  1871-1872,  he 
says:  “The  continuing  surplus  accrues  from  no 
increase  of  taxation,  and  is  in  the  face  of  a large 
expenditure  on  public  works  of  utility  and  impor- 
tance, of  a largely  increasing  expenditure  on  such 
departments  as  those  of  education  and  agriculture, 
and  of  some  increase  of  expenditure  in  those  admin- 
istrative and  revenue  departments  which  necessarily 
require  development  as  the  population  and  wealth 
of  the  colony  become  developed.”  About  the  time 
that  the  report  just  quoted  from  was  written,  the 
import  duty  levied  in  the  early  part  of  1868  was  re- 
moved, and  certain  tonnage  dues  and  taxes  on  live 
stock  taken  away. 

1871  saw  the  disestablishment  of  the  Church  of 
England,  the  repeal  of  the  granting  power  to  the 
governor  to  proclaim  martial  law  in  times  of  insur- 
rection, and  the  taking  of  the  census.  The  popu- 
lation was  then  estimated  at  506,154.  The  seat  of 


36 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


government  was  at  this  time  removed  from  Spanish 
Town  to  Kingston,  a move  which  was  decidedly 
against  the  experience  of  nations,  and  could  hardly 
be  defended  on  the  plea  of  convenience.  Not  only 
were  the  commodious  buildings  and  government 
property  abandoned,  and  allowed  to  go  to  decay, 
but  the  defence  of  a retired  position,  the  advantage 
of  comparative  isolation  from  the  centre  of  business 
activity,  and  the  value  of  historic  association,  were 
alike  given  up  for  a position  of  small  advantage  to 
the  routine  of  public  work,  whatever  benefit  it  might 
be  to  the  merchant  or  professional  man. 

Sir  J.  P.  Grant  had  an  opportunity  to  test  the 
value  of  an  island  statute,  relating  to  the  confisca- 
tion of  munitions  of  war  landed  in  Jamaica. 

The  La  Have,  cleared  for  Kingston  and  loaded 
with  arms,  was  captured  by  a Spanish  man-of-war, 
and  brought  to  Jamaica,  where  the  cargo  was  duly 
seized.  The  owners  brought  suit  for  £33,000 
against  the  governor,  who  found  himself  so  hard 
pushed  that  he  was  fain  to  compromise  for  £7,920, 
giving  his  note  therefor.  The  colonial  council  re- 
deemed the  note,  and  the  Imperial  Government 
finally  refunded  the  money. 

Sir  William  Gray  superseded  Sir  J.  P.  Grant  in 
1874,  ar*d  ruled  till  1877.  Though  these  years 
were  disastrous  in  many  respects,  being  marked 
by  drought,  floods,  destruction  of  roads,  and  the 
small-pox,  besides  a financial  crisis  in  which  sev- 
eral prominent  houses  went  under,  yet  there  was 
also  the  establishment  of  the  Kingston  street-cars, 
and  the  completion  of  the  Rio  Cobre  irrigation 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


3 7 


canal,  a work  of  which  it  would  be  difficult  to  over- 
estimate the  value. 

Lieutenant-Governor  Rushworth  succeeded  Sir 
William  Gray  in  the  management  of  the  govern- 
ment, 1877.  Kingston  was  lighted  with  gas  that 
year  ; Jamaica  was  admitted  to  the  postal  union  ; and 
the  commission  to  inquire  into  the  condition  of  the 
juvenile  population  appointed,  with  results  decidedly 
beneficial,  as  it  led  to  the  establishment  of  the  sys- 
tem of  education  now  operative,  besides  calling  at- 
tention to  certain  other  necessary  reforms.  Before 
the  end  of  the  year  the  lieutenant-governor  died, 
and  Sir  Anthony  Musgrave  succeeded  him.  At 
the  beginning  of  his  administration  financial  affairs 
were  not  in  good  shape.  The  transfer  of  a large 
immigration  debt,  together  with  hospital  and  other 
expenses,  added  to  a deficit  for  1878  of  £2,683, 
burdened  the  treasury.  To  meet  the  exigency,  the 
governor  recommended  that  the  poll-tax  on  cattle, 
removed  seven  years  before,  should  be  reimposed, 
and  a loan  raised.  This  was  enacted ; and  thus 
began  an  administration,  which,  while  not  always 
brilliantly  successful  financially,  was  still  marked 
not  only  by  the  adoption  of  some  necessary  ex- 
pedients in  raising  the  revenue,  but  by  a generally 
wise  and  enlightened  policy,  and  the  institution  of 
a number  of  public  works  and  reforms  by  which 
the  island  is  still  benefited. 

A reduction  in  the  expenditure  on  public  works 
during  the  first  year  enabled  the  treasurer  to  report 
a surplus,  but  the  new  loan  remained  as  an  addition 
to  the  public  debt.  But  afterwards  the  measures 


38 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


already  alluded  to  were  carried  through  with  judg- 
ment and  vigor. 

The  railway  and  telegraph  facilities  now  enjoyed 
by  the  island  are  due  to  Governor  Musgrave,  as  is 
also  its  cable  communication  with  the  rest  of  the 
world.  The  judicial  system  was  improved,  and  the 
consolidation  of  the  superior  courts  accomplished. 
The  Victoria  Institute,  for  the  promotion  of  litera- 
ture, science,  and  art,  was  established.  The  cin- 
chona plantations  were  laid  out  in  St.  Andrews  ; 
and  an  annual  scholarship  founded  in  Kingston, 
which  made  possible  to  the  holder  admission  to 
either  of  the  English  universities.  Besides  these 
things,  a change  in  administration  of  the  high 
school,  and  in  the  efficiency  of  the  teachers’  train- 
ing-schools, was  inaugurated.  In  1879  a new  mar- 
riage-law was  passed,  making  civil  marriages  legal. 

Nature,  during  this  administration,  did  not  act  as 
the  supporter  of  the  governor  and  his  council  in  the 
efforts  for  the  advancement  of  Jamaican  interests. 
The  great  Kingston  fire,  floods,  a drought,  a cy- 
clone, earthquakes,  and  other  calamities  caused  con- 
siderable distress,  some  loss  of  life,  and  injury  to 
commerce.  By  wise  management  much  of  the  ill 
effect  of  these  things  was  averted,  however. 

The  Kingston  fire  just  referred  to  occurred  in 
1881,  on  the  nth  of  December.  It  swept  over  the 
town,  destroying  property  to  the  value  of  £150,000. 
Great  distress  was  occasioned,  but  the  temporary 
injury  was  more  than  balanced  by  subsequent  im- 
provement. 

The  retirement  of  Governor  Musgrave  was  the 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


39 


cause  of  sincere  regret  on  the  part  of  the  people  of 
Jamaica,  who  recognized  his  wisdom,  and  appre- 
ciated the  earnestness  of  his  efforts  for  their  ad- 
vantage. 

Major-General  Gamble  succeeded  him  as  gov- 
ernor in  1883.  During  his  administration,  promises 
were  made  by  the  crown  that  constitutional  changes 
should  be  made  for  Jamaica,  and  that  the  charter 
surrendered  during  Governor  Eyre’s  administration 
should  be  restored  in  a modified  form. 

These  promises  were  carried  into  effect  in  1884, 
while  Sir  Henry  Wylie  Norman  was  at  the  head  of 
affairs.  On  June  20  of  that  year  an  order  in  coun- 
cil by  her  Majesty  was  issued,  reconstituting  the 
Legislative  Council  of  Jamaica.  On  Jan.  2,  1889, 
Sir  Henry  Norman  left  the  island  amid  demonstra- 
tions of  esteem  and  regard  from  the  inhabitants  of 
Kingston  and  surrounding  districts. 

Sir  Henry  Arthur  Blake,  late  governor  of  the  Ba- 
hama Islands,  was  the  next  governor.  His  Excel- 
lency, accompanied  by  his  accomplished  wife  Lady 
Blake,  and  family,  arrived  on  the  9th  of  March  1889, 
and  was  received  with  a loyal  and  hearty  welcome. 
Many  important  undertakings  and  enterprises  have 
been  carried  through  to  a successful  issue  during 
Governor  Blake's  administration,  notably  the  exten- 
sion of  the  railway  to  all  parts  of  the  island,  the 
construction  of  roads,  an  underground  system  of 
drainage  for  Kingston,  and  the  construction  of  ho- 
tels in  various  parts  of  the  island  on  the  American 
plan.  One  of  the  most  important  events  of  his 
administration  was  his  initiating  a movement  for  the 


40 


ST  A RK  'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


holding  of  an  Exhibition  in  Jamaica,  illustrative  of 
the  natural  products  and  manufactures  of  the  island. 
On  Jan.  27,  1891,  the  Exhibition  was  opened  by 
II.  R.  H.  Prince  George  of  Wales,  who  commanded 
H.  M.  S.  Thrush,  one  of  the  ships  of  the  visiting 
squadron.  The  Exhibition  remained  open  until 
May  2.  It  was  the  means  of  bringing  Jamaica  to 
the  notice  of  the  outside  world,  and  went  far  to 
remove  the  erroneous  impression  as  to  the  climate 
of  the  island.  Financially  it  met  the  usual  fate  of 
Exhibitions,  it  failed  to  pay ; and  the  guarantors 
and  General  Revenue  were  called  upon  to  make  up 
the  deficiency. 

During  the  latter  part  of  1892  and  the  earlier 
months  of  1893,  one  of  the  results  of  the  Exhibition 
was  seen  in  the  visits  to  the  island  of  tourist  steam- 
ers, which  have  been  coming  in  increasing  numbers 
every  winter  since. 

. Events  more  recent  than  those  which  we  have  so 
briefly  noticed  are  not  yet  history,  and  will  be 
treated  in  future  editions  of  this  work. 


JAM  Arc  A GUIDE. 


41 


CHAPTER  V. 

COMMUNICATION  AND  TRANSPORTATION. 

To  a person  going  to  Jamaica,  the  first  question 
that  naturally  arises  is,  “ How  shall  we  get  there?  ” 
Therefore  it  comes  naturally  within  the  scope  of 
this  work  to  publish  minute  information  regarding 
the  means  provided  between  England  and  Jamaica 
and  the  American  continent,  and  also  the  means  of 
transportation  on  the  island  when  arrived  there. 

The  first  steamers  to  go  to  Jamaica  were  the  Royal 
Mail  Company’s,  who  began  their  contract  with  the 
British  Government  in  April,  1842,  for  carrying  the 
West  India  mail,  of  which  they  enjoyed  a monopoly 
for  twenty  years.  Under  the  present  mail  contract 
with  the  Imperial  Government  the  transatlantic 
mail  steamers  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet 
Company  are  despatched  from  Southampton  to  the 
West  Indies  every  alternate  Wednesday,  going  di- 
rect to  Barbados,  where  they  are  due  on  the  second 
Monday  after  leaving  Southampton ; thence  by 
branch  steamer  to  Jamaica,  where  they  are  due  on 
the  following  Friday  at  7 a.m.  The  homeward 
steamers  leave  Kingston  on  every  alternate  Tues- 
day at  2 p.  m.,  and  are  due  at  Plymouth  on  every 
alternate  Wednesday  at  9 p.m.  Saloon  fares  be- 
tween Southampton  and  Kingston,  £25  and  £35? 


4- 


ST ARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


according  to  position  of  cabin.  Return  tickets 
available  for  twelve  months,  £40  and  £56. 

Besides  this  line  of  steamers,  there  is  the  West 
India  and  Pacific  Steamship  Company  (Limited). 
The  steamei's  of  this  line  leave  Liverpool  for  Kings- 
ton, via  St.  Thomas  and  Colon,  every  fourth  Thurs- 
day ; average  time  from  Liverpool,  twenty  days. 
Saloon  fare,  £20. 

The  most  frequent,  direct,  and  cheapest  way  to 
reach  Jamaica  from  England  is  by  way  of  the  Ley- 
land  Line  from  Liverpool  to  Boston  ; thence  by  the 
Boston  Fruit  Company’s  steamer  to  Port  Antonio. 
These  steamers  sail  weekly,  and  can  make  the  trip 
in  about  two  weeks’  time. 

Connections  can  also  be  made  in  New  York,  via 
the  Allan  and  Anchor  Line  to  Glasgow.  Single 
saloon  fare,  £23  105.,  and  return  ticket,  £43  155. 
Through  tickets  can  be  procured  of  this  line  avail- 
able on  all  the  principal  European  steamers  sailing 
from  New  York. 

The  Caribbean  Line  is  the  only  direct  line  run- 
ning between  London  and  Jamaica.  Steamers  leave 
London  once  a month. 

The  Prince  Line  sails  from  Antwerp  and  Glas- 
gow to  Jamaica  once  a month. 

There  are  steamers  departing  from  Jamaica  for 
the  United  States  almost  daily.  No  other  island  in 
the  West  Indies  has  such  frequent  communication, 
good  service,  and  low  rates  for  passage.  The  prin- 
cipal line  running  to  New  York  is  the  Atlas  Line, 
which  Hies  the  familiar  blue  flag  with  its  white 
centred  cross.  This  line  comprises  nine  steamers, 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


43 


fitted  up  specially  for  the  conveyance  of  passen- 
gers ; the  accommodations  are  of  the  best  descrip- 
tion, and  the  steamers  are  furnished  with  every 
requisite  for  making  their  trips  safely  and  agreeably. 

As  regards  the  table,  the  passengers  are  supplied 
with  all  the  delicacies  of  the  season  and  everything 
that  might  be  necessary  on  a voyage.  A trip  to 
Jamaica  by  this  line  takes  five  and  a half  days ; the 
boat  leaves  New  York  every  Saturday  for  Kings- 
ton, Hayti,  and  Central  American  ports.  Fare  to 
Kingston,  $50,  or  $80  excursion. 

The  Boston  Fruit  Company  have  now  in  their 
service  sixteen  steamers  running  between  Port  An- 
tonio and  Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia  and  Bal- 
timore ; the  Beverly  and  Belvidere  have  just  been 
built,  and  are  on  the  Boston  line.  They  are  like 
yachts  in  all  their  appointments,  and  are  very  fast. 
The  staterooms  are  forward  of  the  engines  on  the 
main  deck,  and  removed  from  the  noise  of  the  pro- 
peller and  smell  of  the  engines,  and  are  especially 
well  ventilated,  of  ample  dimensions,  and  lighted 
by  electricity.  Steamers  are  provided  with  stewards 
and  stewardess.  The  table  service  is  good,  and  is 
well  spoken  of  by  passengers.  Gentlemen  are  pro- 
vided with  a smoking-room  on  the  main  deck.  As 
these  steamers  carry  only  fruit,  there  is  no  offen- 
sive smell  from  the  cargo ; this,  together  with  the 
advantage  of  having  the  saloon  on  deck,  is  appre- 
ciated by  passengers  subject  to  seasickness. 

The  passage  to  Jamaica  is  $40,  or  $75  for  the 
round  trip.  Steamers  leave  Boston  every  Wednes- 
day, and  sometimes  twice  a week ; the  run  to  Port 


44 


STARK 'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


Antonio  is  made  in  less  than  five  days.  The  Boston 
Fruit  Company  sends  on  an  average  one  steamer 
a day  to  the  United  States. 

Pickford  and  Black’s  West  India  Steamship  Line 
sends  a steamer  with  good  passenger  accommoda- 
tions once  a month  to  Jamaica.  The  steamer  leaves 
Halifax  on  the  fifteenth  of  the  month,  Bermuda  on 
the  twentieth,  and  Turk’s  Island  on  the  twenty-ninth, 
arriving  at  Kingston  the  twenty-third  of  the  month. 
Fare,  single  ticket,  £12  10s.  ; return,  £20  155. 

The  Tweedie  Trading  Company  leaves  New 
York  every  fortnight  for  Kingston  and  Central 
American  ports.  Passage  to  Jamaica,  $50,  and  $80 
for  the  round  trip. 

TRAVELLING  IN  JAMAICA. 

Travelling  in  Jamaica  is  easy  and  safe.  The 
government  lias  constructed  good  roads  throughout 
the  island;  and  the  railway  system,  now  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty-five  miles  in  extent,  reaches  nearly 
all  the  important  centres  of  population,  traversing 
as  it  does,  or  at  least  touching,  nine  out  of  the  four- 
teen parishes.  It  was  in  the  year  1843  that  the 
Jamaica  Railway  Company  was  incorporated.  The 
line  was  opened  for  traffic  in  November  of  that  year. 
It  was  at  first  only  operated  as  far  as  “The  Angels,’’ 
near  Spanish  Town,  a distance  of  fourteen  miles 
from  Kingston,  at  a cost  of  £222,250.  It  had  but 
one  track,  and  went  through  a level  country.  From 
then  to  1867  work  was  virtually  at  a standstill ; it 
was  too  expensive  to  carry  it  through  the  moun- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


45 


tains.  Then  an  extension  from  Spanish  Town  to 
Old  Harbor  Market  was  carried  through  at  an  ex- 
pense of  £60,000,  being  opened  to  the  public  in 
July,  1869.  After  the  opening  of  the  extension  the 
business  of  the  company  gradually  increased,  till  in 
1875  its  revenue  reached  the  sum  of  £24,200,  a 
gain  of  £13,478  in  six  years.  In  1877  Sir  Anthony 
Musgrave  interested  himself  in  the  affairs  of  the 
railway,  and  effected  the  purchase  of  the  road  by 
the  Government.  At  that  time  the  capital  repre- 
sented was  £267,250.  The  permanent  way  was  re- 
laid  and  ballasted ; water-ways  and  conduits  were 
opened  to  drain  those  parts  of  the  road  which 
were  apt  to  be  submerged ; twenty-eight  bridges 
were  built,  and  general  improvements  carried  on 
all  along  the  line  ; which  with  stations,  walls,  cul- 
verts, and  numerous  other  additions  amounted  to 
£107,260.  This,  with  the  purchase,  cost  £201,192. 

The  next  move  was  the  extension  to  Porus  in 
Manchester.  On  the  2d  of  May,  1885,  the  exten- 
sion was  open  to  traffic,  at  a cost  of  £280,924.  In 
1888  a report  was  made  on  the  proposed  extension 
of  the  road  from  Bog  Walk  through  Annotto  Bay 
to  Port  Antonio.  The  length  of  the  proposed  line 
was  fifty-five  miles,  and  the  estimated  cost,  £723,- 
072,  or  an  average  of  £13,206  per  mile.  An  ex- 
tension was  also  proposed  from  Porus  to  Montego 
Bay,  a distance  of  sixty-five  miles,  at  an  estimated 
cost  of  £832,399,  an  average  of  £12,893  per  mile. 

Pending  the  action  of  the  Legislature  on  the 
scheme  of  carrying  out  these  extensions  by  the  Gov- 
ernment, a proposal  was  made  by  Mr.  Frederick 


46 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Wesson  and  other  American  capitalists  for  the  pur- 
chase of  the  railway.  It  was  sold  to  them  for  £100,- 
ooo  cash  and  £700,000  secured  by  second-mortgage 
bonds  on  the  railroad  at  four  per  cent  interest.  The 
company  pledged  itself  to  extend  the  line  as  pro- 
jected, and  was  empowered  to  issue  bonds  to  the 
extent  of  £320,000,  and  to  make  further  issues 
£200,000  on  the  completion  of  each  twenty-five 
miles  of  extension  till  the  full  amount  £1,500,000 
was  reached.  The  transfer  of  the  line  was  made 
Jan.  4,  1890.  In  1894  the  Montego  section  was 
completed,  and  work  commenced  on  the  Port  An- 
tonio part,  which  was  finished  in  1896. 

At  the  Kingston  station  the  visitor  is  at  once 
struck  with  the  unique  character  of  the  place  and 
the  people,  especially  the  latter.  The  train-shed 
into  which  the  station  building  proper  opens  is  about 
three  hundred  feet  long,  and  wide  enough  to  admit 
several  trains  abreast.  Beyond  this  structure  are 
the  shops,  engine-houses,  etc.  The  cars  drawn  up 
to  the  platform  are  built  mostly  upon  the  American 
plan.  Under  the  former  management  they  were 
built  upon  the  English  pattern,  divided  into  traverse 
apartments ; some  of  these  are  still  in  use.  In 
place  of  the  various  phases  of  English  or  American 
life,  we  find  here  a mixed  assortment  of  humanity, 
with  great  contrasts  of  color,  character,  creed,  and 
costume.  The  white  of  position,  with  the  visitor 
from  Europe  or  the  American  continent,  takes  his 
place  in  a first-class  carriage.  There  are  colored 
people,  black  people,  white  people  ; there  are  faces 
that  show  Castilian  origin,  others  of  a Caledonian 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


47 


cast ; many  that  are  browned  by  more  than  exposure 
to  a tropic  sun.  Here  is  the  bare-armed,  brace- 
letted,  long  black-haired  coolie  woman,  with  her 
babe  wrapped  in  the  gaudy  shawl  that  is  thrown 
half  around  the  mother’s  head,  half  over  her  shoul- 
der. Her  wealth  is  apparent  to  the  eyes ; for  she 
carries  it  where  all  may  see,  displayed  upon  her 
wrists,  forehead,  breast,  ankles,  in  fact,  anywhere 
that  there  is  a chance  to  place  a hoop  or  a bangle. 
Then  there  are  others,  — black  and  white  soldiers, 
the  negro  dressed  in  Zouave  uniform,  negro  market 
women  with  large  bundles  on  their  heads,  news- 
boys and  porters.  These  all  speak  a language  that 
they  pretend  to  be  English,  but  which  is  impossible 
for  the  stranger  to  at  once  understand. 

After  passing  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  among  the 
hirst  things  to  attract  attention  are  the  extensive 
stock-yards,  or  pens  as  they  are  called  here.  Many 
of  these  stock-farms  were  once  sugar  plantations ; 
but  the  low  price  of  sugar,  and  the  difficulty  of  ob- 
taining sufficient  labor  after  the  abolition  of  slavery, 
led  to  their  abandonment.  The  largest  of  these  is 
the  Cumberland  Pen,  one  of  the  largest  properties 
on  the  island,  where  great  herds  of  horses  and  cattle 
are  bred  and  grazed.  This  pen  embraces  a good 
race-course,  and  its  turf  events  are  always  looked 
forward  to  with  interest  by  both  natives  and  visitors. 

For  fifteen  miles  or  more  the  line  runs  through  a 
level  country,  and  on  leaving  there  the  iron  horse 
mounts  the  hills.  Here  the  scenes  are  entirely  dif- 
ferent from  those  already  noted,  but  they  are  a con- 
stant charm.  Now  the  passenger  gazes  through  a 


48 


ST  A RK  'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


vista  of  cocoanut-  and  mango-trees  upon  a tangle 
of  rank  tropical  plants  and  flowers,  or  upon  some 
mountain  hamlet  with  its  thatched  African  huts. 
Plunging  from  the  mouth  of  some  tunnel,  he  finds 
himself  high  upon  a mountain  shelf  with  a densely 
wooded  ravine  beneath  his  feet,  while  tall  mountain 
forms  tower  above  him  on  the  other  side.  The  pic- 
ture is  ever  changing,  and  never  commonplace  or 
familiar. 

CARRIAGE  AND  CAB  FARES. 

Besides  the  railway,  there  are  mail-coaches  that 
communicate  with  all  the  principal  towns  that  are 
not  connected  by  rail.  These  coaches  usually  run 
three  times  a week.  The  rates  are  less  than  those 
of  carriage-hire.  The  general  practice  is  for  long 
distances,  and  where  the  hirer  has  the  use  of  a 
buggy  and  horses  for  a period  of  twenty  days,  to 
charge  at  the  rate  of  £i  a day.  The  hirer  can 
arrange  before  starting  on  his  journey  whether  he 
or  the  livery-stable  proprietor  shall  pay  the  cost  of 
feeding  the  driver  and  horses  as  he  goes  along. 
The  rate  paid  for  the  driver’s  food  is  usually  15.  6d. 
a day,  and  the  cost  of  feeding  the  horses  varies  ac- 
cording to  the  current  price  of  corn  and  grass.  The 
usual  price  is  yi.  per  quart  for  corn,  3 d.  per  bundle 
for  grass,  and  6d.  per  night  for  pasturage. 

If  hired  for  a day  or  for  short  trips,  the  rates  of 
course  are  much  higher ; 305.  is  the  usual  price 
when  taken  for  a single  day,  and  6d.  per  mile  for 
short  distances,  saddle  ponies  for  morning  or  even- 
ing rides,  8s. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


49 


The  main  road  encircles  the  island,  and  is  about 
five  hundred  miles  long.  The  island  is  intersected 
by  splendid  roads,  the  best  in  the  world,  which 
were  built  by  former  governors,  who,  by  the  aid  of 
convict  labor,  ran  wide  macadamized  thoroughfares 
across  the  island,  connecting  every  village  and  town. 
These  grand  routes  make  driving  perfectly  delight- 
ful, and  are  the  admiration  of  visitors  from  the 
United  States.  A road-tax  of  £3  per  year  is  levied 
on  each  buggy,  which  is  used  to  keep  the  roads  in 
repair.  Strange  to  say,  Kingston,  the  capital,  has 
the  poorest  roads  on  the  island.  Kingston  is  well 
supplied  with  cabs.  The  fare  is  6d.  within  the 
limits  of  the  city,  or  35.  per  hour. 

The  tram-cars  afford  the  means  of  travelling 
in  the  parish  of  Kingston,  and  as  far  as  Constant 
Springs  in  St.  Andrew’s  Parish.  The  fare  within 
Kingston  is  2 d.  by  tickets;  to  Halfway  Tree,  6d.  ; 
to  Constant  Springs,  15.  ; return  tickets  to  and  from 
Constant  Springs,  is.  6d.  each.  One-third  more  is 
charged  if  cash  fares  are  paid.  When  electricity 
supersedes  the  mules  that  are  now  used  to  draw  the 
cars,  better  service  and  more  reasonable  prices  will 
probably  be  charged. 


50 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


CHAPTER  VI. 

KINGSTON. 

Kingston  is  not  only  the  metropolis  and  capital 
of  Jamaica,  it  is  also  the  most  important  city  in  the 
British  West  Indies. 

It  is  situated  on  the  northern  shore  of  one  of  the 
finest  harbors  in  the  world,  which  is  formed  by  a 
long  coral  reef  called  the  Palisades,  covered  with 
cocoanut  palms,  which  shuts  out  the  Caribbean 
Sea,  leaving  only  a narrow  entrance  to  the  harbor. 
On  the  end  of  this  point  of  land  was  situated  the 
famous  city  of  Port  Royal,  destroyed  by  the  great 
earthquake  of  1692.  The  waters  of  Kingston  Har- 
bor now  cover  its  site. 

Kingston  owes  its  origin  to  the  destruction  of  Port 
Royal.  Many  of  the  survivors  of  that  dreadful 
catastrophe  settled  on  the  Liguanea  plain,  which 
rises  by  a gentle  slope  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
at  the  northern  limits  of  the  plain.  The  city  is 
built  on  a gravelly  soil,  formed  of  the  debris  brought 
down  by  rains  and  rivers  from  the  mountains. 
Kingston  was  originally  built  in  the  form  of  a 
cross.  King  Street,  running  north  and  south, 
crosses  Queen  Street,  which  is  laid  east  and  west. 
At  their  intersection  is  the  Parade  Ground,  a pleas- 
ant little  park,  which  is  a favorite  resting-place  for 


AMAICA  GUIDE. 


51 


the  people  after  the  heat  of  the  day  is  over.  It  is 
profusely  adorned  with  tropical  plants  and  orna- 
mental shade-trees,  many  of  which  are  interesting 
to  botanists,  and  novel  and  curious  to  visitors  from 
colder  climes.  The  gardens  contain  fountains  and 
tanks,  in  which  grow  water-lilies  and  other  aquatic 
plants.  At  the  King-street  entrance  to  the  Parade 
is  a line  statue  to  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe,  a former 
governor. 

Kingston  is  a quaint  and  curious  dusty  old  city, 
a strange  combination  of  the  Spanish  and  Old 
English  style.  The  buildings  are  built  of  stone, 
brick,  and  wood.  The  city  has  been  visited  during 
its  history  by  four  great  fires.  The  first,  in  1780, 
caused  a loss  of  £30,000.  The  second,  in  1843, 
swept  the  city  from  the  east  end  of  Harbor  Street 
to  the  Catholic  chapel  at  the  end  of  Duke  Street. 
The  third  fire  occurred  in  1862,  and  burned  down 
stores,  wharves,  and  other  property  valued  at  £90,- 
000.  The  fourth,  in  1882,  rendered  six  thousand 
people  homeless,  and  burnt  a large  portion  of  the 
business  part  of  the  town.  The  danger  from  fire 
has  been  greatly  lessened  since  the  introduction  of 
a new  water  supply  from  the  Wag  Water  River. 
The  pressure  is  sufficient  for  all  fire  purposes  ; and 
the  system  of  filtration  used  results  in  a supply  for 
drinking  purposes,  in  place  of  the  former  precari- 
ous supply  from  wells  and  cisterns,  that  probably 
no  other  tropical  city  in  the  world  can  excel,  and 
few  can  equal.  Kingston  holds  an  important  place 
in  the  commerce  of  the  world,  and  a vast  amount 
of  trade  is  carried  on  through  this  port.  Its  water- 


52 


STARK  ' S ILLUSTRA  TED 


front  teems  with  shipping,  and  there  are  always 
here  steamers  and  sailing-vessels  from  all  parts  of 
the  world.  Vast  quantities  of  merchandise,  prod- 
ucts of  this  island,  are  shipped  from  Kingston,  — 
sugar,  rum,  coffee,  logwood,  fruits,  and  pimento; 
and  the  imports  consist  of  manufactured  and  food 
products  of  Europe  and  America. 

Banks,  life  and  fire  insurance  companies,  build- 
ing societies,  and  discount  associations  flourish  here, 
and  do  a large  business.  Electric  lights  are  fast 
taking  the  place  of  gas  in  the  principal  buildings 
and  streets.  Ice  is  manufactured  by  two  different 
concerns,  and  sold  much  lower  than  it  can  be  im- 
ported. 

Amongst  Kingston’s  buildings  the  finest  are  the 
new  Theatre  Royal ; the  hospital  on  North  Street ; 
the  Colonial  Bank  on  Duke  Street;  the  old  parish 
church  on  King  Street,  near  the  Parade,  in  which 
Admiral  Benbow  is  buried,  and  where  half  the  his- 
torical events  of  the  last  two  centuries  centre  ; the 
colonial  secretary’s  office  ; and  the  library  and  mu- 
seum buildings  on  East  Street.  The  Court  House 
on  Harbor  Street,  though  externally  very  unlovely, 
is  not  without  its  points  of  interest.  On  the  walls 
of  the  Court  House  are  two  striking  and  well-exe- 
cuted paintings  of  Sir  Joshua  Rowe  and  Sir  Bryan 
Edwards,  two  former  chief-justices  of  the  colony. 

Kingston  is  not  the  hot,  unhealthy  city  that  many 
people  think  it  is.  The  fact  is,  there  has  been  a 
wrong  impression  created  by  some  writers  in  times 
past ; for  certainly  a large  and  contented  white  pop- 
ulation make  Kingston  their  habitation  the  year 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


53 


round,  and  with  a little  attention  to  the  commonest 
hygienic  laws,  they  are  not  only  able  to  exist,  but 
to  be  comfortable. 

Nature  has  provided  the  old  city  with  an  agent 
to  purify  it  and  make  it  comfortably  habitable  — 
this  is  the  “ Doctor.”  By  that  the  Jamaican  means 
the  strong  south  wind  that  comes  in  from  off  the 
ocean  at  about  ten  o’clock  every  morning,  and  lasts 
till  about  four  in  the  afternoon.  Then  after  sunset 
there  is  a cool  breeze  from  the  mountains  on  the 
north  that  descends  to  the  low  lands  on  the  coast. 
The  immediate  and  pleasant  results  of  the  “Doctor’s” 
visit  is  the  preservation  of  health  and  the  conserva- 
tion of  comfort. 

It  is  very  interesting  to  walk  about  the  streets  of 
Kingston,  and  observe  the  people  going  about  in 
their  every-day  life.  Vehicles  of  all  kinds  are  seen 
in  the  streets,  — stylish  turnouts  from  the  equipages 
of  the  governor  to  those  of  the  citizens’  mule-carts 
and  drays  ; and  the  ever-present  hacks,  whose  driv- 
ers are  the  most  obtrusive  and  most  offensive  hack- 
drivers  on  earth,  Barbados  only  excepted.  Yonder 
comes  a negro  soldier  with  turban,  tight  jacket, 
and  Zouave  rigging  below.  Near  him  is  an  East 
Indian  coolie  woman,  who  is  gorgeously  apparelled, 
her  small  hands  and  feet  ornamented  with  silver 
bangles,  and  her  lithe  body  wrapped  in  party- 
colored  garments.  There  are  many  beautiful  resi- 
dences in  Kingston.  In  driving  through  the  suburbs 
the  traveller  may  notice  unattractive  high  dusty 
walls ; but  if  he  were  to  step  through  the  door  of 
the  wall,  he  would  find  himself  in  the  midst  of 


54 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


charming  grounds,  gardens,  and  lawns,  made 
beautiful  with  rare  tropical  plants,  with  the  great 
sumptuous  house  and  wide  verandas,  typically 
tropical  surroundings ; and  here,  too,  the  traveller 
would  find  the  truest  and  freest  hospitality. 

CHURCHES. 

Various  religious  sects  have  their  places  of  wor- 
ship in  Kingston,  but  none  of  them  claim  to  be 
grand  or  great  specimens  of  ecclesiastical  architec- 
ture. The  Presbyterian  kirk  on  East  Queen  Street, 
and  the  Wesleyan  chapel  adjoining  it,  and  known 
as  Coke  chapel,  in  memory  of  Dr.  Coke,  an  emi- 
nent and  honored  Methodist  missionary  a hundred 
years  ago,  are  perhaps  the  best  and  most  complete 
to  look  at.  The  Roman  Catholic  church  or  cathe- 
dral is  a handsome  structure.  Almost  opposite  to 
this  last-named  building  is  a striking  and  ornate 
Jewish  synagogue.  The  first  place,  however,  must 
be  given  to  the  old  Kingston  parish  church,  facing 
the  Parade  Gardens.  The  church  was  built  shortly 
after  the  destruction  of  Port  Royal.  A memorial 
tablet  placed  near  the  font  at  the  west  door  records 
the  interment  of  William  Hall  on  the  18th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1699,  seven  years  after  the  earthquake. 
This  is  probably  the  oldest  building  in  Kingston, 
and  has  successfully  withstood  all  the  great  fires 
that  have  devastated  the  city  in  the  past.  The 
church  has  of  recent  years  been  much  enlarged  and 
improved,  and  as  it  now  exists  it  is  almost  twice  the 
dimensions  of  the  original  edifice.  Under  a black 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


55 


marble  slab  in  the  chancel  rests  the  bones  of  Admiral 
Benbow,  who  lost  his  life,  Nov.  4,  1702,  in  defence 
of  Jamaica,  in  his  engagement  with  Du  Casse,  ad- 
miral of  the  French  fleet.  Another  stone  records 
the  prowess  of  Samuel  Philips,  who  departed  this 
life  the  16th  of  August,  1757.  He  commanded  the 
Alexander  private  sloop-of-war  out  of  Bristol,  and 
cut  his  Majesty’s  ship  Solebay  out  of  St.  Martin’s 
Road  the  16th  of  April,  1746,  for  which  he  had  the 
honor  to  kiss  his  Majesty’s  hand,  and  received  a 
gold  medal  and  chain  — Alexander  140,  Solebay, 
220  men. 

The  walls  of  the  church  are  decorated  with  some 
exquisitely  beautiful  mural  tablets,  which  keep 
fresh  the  memory  of  names  associated  with  the 
naval,  military,  and  civil  service  of  the  colony. 

HOTELS  AND  BOARDING-HOUSES. 

Until  within  the  last  few  years  the  insufficiency 
of  hotels  and  boarding  accommodations  was  a great 
drawback  in  Kingston,  but  any  ground  for  com- 
plaint of  this  sort  has  now  been  removed. 

Myrtle  Bank  is  the  largest  and  best  hotel  in 
Kingston.  It  is  situated  on  Harbor  Street,  the 
principal  business  street  of  the  city,  and  about  five 
minutes’  walk  from  the  post-office  and  stores.  Sit- 
uated as  it  is  upon  the  seashore,  with  a beautiful 
tropical  garden  between  it  and  the  shore,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  the  band-stand,  it  has  all  the 
advantages  of  a city,  country,  and  seashore  resi- 
dence combined.  The  building  is  a massive-look- 


56 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


ing  structure,  three  stories  high,  built  of  brick,  on 
three  sides  of  a square,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
flower-garden.  On  the  water  side  it  is  surrounded 
with  roomy,  cool,  shaded  piazzas  which  overlook 
Kingston  Harbor,  with  the  Palisades  in  the  distance. 
During  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  there  is  always 
a cool  breeze  blowing  from  the  water,  which  makes 
this  hotel  the  coolest  spot  in  Kingston.  To  a per- 
son that  has  visited  the  Riviera,  this  hotel  and  its 
location  will  very  forcibly  remind  them  of  the  ones 
seen  at  Mentone,  only  the  climate  is  much  more 
delightful  here.  On  the  first  floor  are  the  reading- 
and  dining-rooms ; on  the  second  floor,  taking  up 
the  whole  block  of  the  main  building,  are  the  mag- 
nificent drawing-rooms,  that  open  with  long  French 
windows  on  all  sides  onto  the  verandas.  Above 
this  room  are  the  bedrooms,  opening  upon  the  wide 
piazza.  The  charges  at  Myrtle  Bank  are  quite 
reasonable,  — $2.50  and  $3.00  per  day,  and  less 
by  the  week.  Mr.  De  Pass,  the  proprietor,  is  a 
very  courteous  gentleman,  and  no  guest  is  forgotten 
or  neglected,  or  goes  away  dissatisfied. 

There  are  various  other  hotels  and  boarding- 
houses in  the  city,  such  as  the  Park  Lodge,  Water- 
loo Hotel,  Clarendon  House,  and  Streadwick's 
Marine  Garden,  adjacent  to  the  Myrtle  Bank. 

Marine  Garden  contains  a number  of  single  cot- 
tages furnished ; they  are  cool  and  airy  structures, 
shaded  at  all  times  of  the  day  by  luxuriant  palms 
and  other  trees,  which  give  the  place  a truly  syl- 
van aspect.  The  frontage  is  seaward,  and  a fine 
esplanade  and  landing-wharf  offer  admirable  facil- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE 


57 


ities  for  yachting  and  boating.  The  houses  in  the 
garden  during  the  summer  months  are  patronized 
by  many  of  the  best  families  in  Kingston.  A din- 
ing-hall is  run  in  connection  with  the  houses. 

The  following  is  the  tariff  established  by  the 
Government,  which  applies  to  all  hotels  built  un- 
der the  Hotels  Law  of  1890.  Approved  by  the 
Governor  in  Privy  Council,  March  4,  1893. 


£ 

s. 

d. 

£ 

s. 

d. 

Board  and  lodging  for  one 

Sandwiches  from  . . . 

0 

I 

0 

per  day 

O 

12 

O 

For  one  per  week 

3 

10 

O 

Pasturage. 

For  two  in  one  room  per 

Guinea  Grass,  per  day  . . 

0 

0 

6 

week 

6 

0 

0 

Ditto,  per  night  .... 

0 

0 

6 

Special  arrangements  for 

Grass,  per  bundle  . . . 

0 

0 

4 

families  and  parties. 

Corn,  per  quart  .... 

0 

0 

4 

Single  beds 

0 

4 

0 

Transient  baths  .... 

0 

0 

6 

Double  beds 

0 

6 

0 

Tea,  coffee,  milk,  choco- 

Breakfast  from  .... 

0 

2 

6 

late,  per  cup 

0 

0 

6 

Lunch  “ .... 

0 

I 

6 

Ditto,  with  bread  and  but- 

Dinner  “ .... 

0 

4 

0 

ter 

0 

I 

0 

Supper  u .... 

0 

2 

0 

Ditto,  with  toast  . . . 

0 

I 

0 

Brandy,  per  bottle  . 

0 

6 

0 

Ditto,  with  toast  and  eggs 

0 

I 

6 

Ditto,  ***,  per  bottle  . 

0 

7 

0 

Whiskey  “ 

0 

6 

0 

Servants’  Meals. 

Old  Rum  “ “ . . 

0 

5 

0 

Coffee 

0 

0 

6 

Champagne  “ “ . . 

0 

5 

0 

Breakfast 

0 

I 

6 

Champagne  Monopole,  per 

Dinner 

0 

I 

6 

bottle  

0 

5 

6 

Bed 

0 

I 

6 

Moselle,  still  and  spark- 

ling,  per  bottle  . . 

0 

3 

0 

Hoch  “ “ 

0 

3 

0 

Servants’  Board. 

Claret,  per  bottle,  — 

Per  day  

0 

5 

0 

St.  Estephe  .... 

0 

I 

6 

Per  week 

I 

12 

0 

Margeaux 

0 

2 

0 

Malt,  per  bottle,  — 

Children  under  12  years, 

Guiness’  Stout  . . . 

0 

0 

9 

half  price. 

Lager  Beer  .... 

0 

0 

9 

Meals  served  in  bedroom 

Bass’  Ale 

0 

0 

9 

extra,  each  .... 

0 

I 

0 

Tennent’s  Ale  . . . 

0 

0 

9 

58 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


£ 

s. 

d. 

£ 

s. 

d. 

McEwan’s  Ale  . . 

. 0 

0 

9 

Syrups 

. 0 

0 

3 

Angostura  Bitters 

. 0 

3 

0 

Curagoa 

0 

6 

Angostura  Bitters  . . 

0 

0 

6 

Single  Drinks. 

Soda  Water,  English  . 

0 

0 

9 

Brandy 

0 

0 

6 

Soda  Water,  native  . 

0 

0 

6 

Brandy,  ***  .... 

0 

0 

9 

Lemonade  “ 

0 

0 

9 

Whiskey 

0 

o 

6 

Ginger  Ale  “ 

0 

0 

9 

Old  Rum  .... 

0 

o 

6 

Tonic  Water  “ 

0 

0 

9 

Cocktail 

0 

0 

6 

Wine  Bitters  . . . 

0 

0 

6 

Cigars. 

Sherry  Wine 

0 

o 

6 

Governors,  native  . 

0 

0 

4 

Port  “ ... 

0 

0 

6 

After  Suppers  . . 

0 

0 

1h 

Holland  Gin 

0 

o 

6 

Conchas,  Speciales 

0 

0 

2 

Old  Tom  “ ... 

0 

0 

6 

Reinitas,  “ 

0 

0 

I* 

Boarders’  Bills  are  payable  weekly ; and  all  bills  must  be  settled  in  notes, 
gold,  or  silver  before  guests  leave  the  hotel. 


MARKETS. 

The  markets  of  Kingston  are  one  of  the  sights 
of  the  town.  They  are  excellent  institutions,  and 
are  always  well  stocked  with  an  infinite  variety  of 
fruit  that  is  new  to  the  tourist.  The  markets  are 
two  in  number,  — the  Victoria  at  the  foot  of  King 
Street,  and  the  Jubilee  Market  at  the  northwest  of 
the  Parade.  Here  may  be  seen  turtle,  meat,  poul- 
try, and  fish  such  as  are  found  only  in  tropical 
waters,  many  remarkable  for  their  beauty  of  color, 
together  with  heaps  of  tropical  fruits  and  vegetables 
brought  down  over  night,  mainly  on  women’s  heads, 
from  distant  parts  of  the  island.  The  noise,  bustle, 
and  clatter  of  tongues,  the  seeming  confusion  and 
spontaneous  flow  of  good-nature,  all  combine  to 
make  a visit  to  a Kingston  market,  especially  on 
Saturday  morning,  a sight  and  scene  which  will  not 
readily  be  forgotten.  Of  the  two  Kingston  markets, 


Jubilee  Market  Kingston. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


59 


the  Victoria  Market  is  situated  at  the  southerly  end 
of  King  Street,  and  may  be  reached  by  street-cars 
from  almost  any  part  of  the  city.  It  is  a handsome 
and  spacious  building,  conveniently  arranged  both 
for  purchasers  and  for  sellers,  within  a few  yards 
of  the  public  landing-place  on  the  north  shore  of 
the  harbor,  and  therefore  exposed  to  the  refreshing 
sea-breeze  which  cools  the  heated  town.  The  other 
market  is  to  the  west  of  the  Parade  Gardens,  and 
was  built  in  1887,  and  called  the  Jubilee  Market,  in 
commemoration  of  the  fiftieth  year  of  the  Queen’s 
accession. 

Food  supplies  in  Jamaica,  with  the  exception  of 
meats  and  poultry,  are  cheaper  than  in  the  North. 
Fruits  are  especially  low  in  price,  and  of  great  va- 
riety, such  as  mangoes,  oranges,  bananas,  custard 
apples,  sappodillas,  guavas,  star  apples,  papaws, 
avocado  pears,  lemons,  and  many  other  fruits  that 
are  new  to  the  visitor  to  these  shores. 

Generally  the  cost  of  living  in  Jamaica  is  not  so 
great  as  it  is  in  the  North.  Clothing  is  usually 
cheaper  than  in  America.  Laborers’  wages  are  also 
lower,  but  higher  than  in  England. 

Kingston  also  possesses  its  theatre,  race-course, 
and  clubs,  some  connected  with  sport,  others  exist- 
ing for  social  purposes.  The  Jamaica  Club,  on 
Hanover  Street,  always  welcomes  strangers  heart- 
ily. The  Royal  Jamaica  Yacht  Club  has  com- 
modious quarters  in  the  east  end  of  the  city.  The 
Society  of  Agriculture  and  Commerce  has  its  home 
on  Harbor  Street,  and  its  tables  are  well  supplied 
with  English  and  American  papers. 


6o 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


CHAPTER  VII. 

LIBRARY  AND  MUSEUM. 

In  making  a tour  of  Kingston,  one  of  the  first 
places  to  attract  the  visitor  is  the  Institute  of  Ja- 
maica on  East  Street.  It  has  a museum  and  library, 
and  both  are  free  to  the  public.  The  library  con- 
tains upwards  of  twelve  thousand  volumes,  and 
many  valuable  collections  of  books  and  pamphlets 
bearing  on  the  natural  productions  of  the  West 
Indies,  and  Jamaica  in  particular.  A portrait  gal- 
lery of  Jamaican  celebrities  is  connected  with  the 
library,  and  lectures  on  literary  and  scientific  sub- 
jects are  frequently  given.  The  greatest  curiosity 
of  all  in  the  library  is  — 

THE  SHARK  PAPERS. 

The  following  remarkable  story,  gathered  from 
official  documents  still  preserved  in  the  Institute  of 
Jamaica,  may  well  be  considered  the  greatest  fish- 
story  on  record.  It  forms  an  incident  stranger  than 
any  based  on  fiction  ; and  were  it  not  for  the  un- 
doubted evidence  as  to  the  genuineness  of  it,  it  would 
be  almost  beyond  belief  that  such  a case  could 
occur.  The  brig  Nancy  left  Baltimore  under  the 
command  of  Thomas  Briggs  on  July  3,  1799.  She 
was  manned  by  Swedes  and  Danes,  and  owned  by 


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JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


6l 


Germans,  naturalized  citizens  of  the  United  States. 
Three  years  before  she  had  been  captured  by  a 
French  privateer  and  carried  into  Guadeloupe,  and 
there  condemned  as  American  property. 

The  Nancy  cleared  at  Baltimore  for  Curagoa,  and 
on  the  way  put  into  Aruba,  which  port  afforded  a 
retreat  to  ships  of  all  nations,  and  supplied  them 
with  arms  and  ammunition  in  time  of  war.  Hence 
Briggs  went  to  Curagoa,  distant  about  fifty  miles, 
in  a droger,  and  returned  with  a German  named 
Schultze,  an  agent  of  the  owners.  After  leaving 
Aruba,  she  was,  on  the  28th  of  August,  1799,  cap- 
tured by  H.  M.  S.  Sparrow,  a cutter  commanded 
by  Hugh  Wylie.  When  taken  she  was  near  the 
island  of  L.  Vache,  off  the  south  coast  of  Hayti, 
and  was  taken  into  Port  Royal  with  another  prize, 
a Spanish  schooner.  Suit  was  brought  in  the  Court 
of  Vice-Admiralty  at  Kingston  on  Sept.  9,  1799,  in 
accordance  with  the  Royal  Proclamation  of  the  18th 
of  February,  1793,  and  November,  1796.  It  was 
declared  that  the  Nancy  was  a lawful  prize,  seized 
on  the  high  seas  as  the  property  of  persons  being 
enemies  of  the  realm.  A claim  for  dismissal  of  the 
suit  with  costs  was  put  in  on  the  14th  of  September, 
which  would  probably  have  prevailed  but  for  the 
fact  that  Lieutenant  Fitton  produced,  on  Sept.  14, 
certain  papers,  which  he  found  in  a shark  caught 
off  Jacmel,  while  cruising  in  the  tender  of  H.  M.  S. 
Abergavenny.  These  papers,  together  with  others 
of  an  incriminating  nature  found  on  the  Nancy 
some  time  after  her  capture,  concealed  in  the  cap- 
tain’s cabin,  “ so  hard  drove  in  that  it  was  with 


62 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


difficulty  they  could  be  taken  out,”  and  some  in  a 
cask  of  salt  pork,  led  to  her  condemnation  on  Nov. 
25,  1799.  The  actual  packet  of  paper  with  the 
affidavit  of  Lieutenant  Fitton  can  be  seen  in  a glass 
frame  in  the  Institute  of  Jamaica.  The  following 
is  a copy  of  the  affidavit  that  testifies  to  the  authen- 
ticity of  the  same  : — 

Jamaica,  SS. 

IN  THE  COURT  OF  VICE  ADMIRALTY. 

The  Adv.  Gen.  ex.  ret.  Wylie,  et  al., 
vs.  The  Brig  Nancy. 

Michael  Fitton,  Esquire,  being  duly  sworn,  maketh  oath 
and  saith  that  the  tender  of  His  Majesty’s  ship  of  war 
Abergavenny,  then  under  the  command  of  this  deponent, 
being  on  a cruise  off  Jacmel  in  the  island  of  San  Domingo, 
on  the  thirteenth  day  of  August  last,  discovered  a dead 
bullock  surrounded  by  sharks,  which  he  had  towed  along- 
side the  said  tender  for  the  purpose  of  catching  the  said 
sharks,  and  this  deponent  saith  that  having  caught  one  of 
the  said  sharks  and  hoisted  it  on  board  the  said  tender, 
he  ordered  some  of  the  seamen  to  separate  its  jaws  and 
clean  them,  as  the  said  shark  was  larger  than  common, 
which  the  said  seamen  did,  whilst  others  opened  its  maw, 
and  therein  discovered  in  the  presence  of  this  deponent 
a parcel  of  papers  tied  up  with  a string.  And  this  depo- 
nent saith  that  on  perusing  the  said  paper  he  discovered 
a letter  of  a recent  date  from  Curricoa,  and  as  it  occurred 
to  this  deponent  they  might  relate  to  some  vessel  detained 
by  some  of  His  Majesty’s  cruisers,  he  had  them  dried  on 
deck ; and  this  deponent  saith  that  having  been  informed 
that  His  Majesty’s  cutter  Sparrow  has  sent  down  to  this 
island  as  prize  a certain  brig,  a vessel  called  the  Nancy, 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


63 


and  supposing  the  papers  so  found  as  aforesaid  might  be 
useful  at  the  trial  of  the  said  vessel  called  the  Nancy, 
hath  caused  the  same  to  be  sealed  up,  and  delivered  them 
to  one  of  the  surrogates  of  this  honorable  court  without 
any  fraud,  alteration,  addition,  subduction,  or  embezzle- 
ment whatsoever.  „ _ , T. 

Mich  l Fitton. 


Taken  and  the  truth  thereof  sworn  to 
before  me  this  24 th  day  of  Septem- 
ber, 1799. 

J.  Fraser,  Surrogate. 


These  papers  were  delivered  to  me  by  Lieut.  Fitton  at 
the  time  of  his  swearing  to  his  affidavit  in  the  cause, 
Adv.  Genl.  Wylie,  et  a/.,  vs.  the  brig  Nancy. 

J.  Fraser,  Surrogate. 

2\th  September,  1799. 

In  the  United  Service  Museum,  London,  is  the 
head  of  the  shark  which  swallowed  the  papers,  ac- 
companied by  a box  containing  certain  papers  found 
on  the  Nancy,  which  probably  were  not  needed  in 
evidence  in  the  case. 

The  next  article  of  interest  in  the  library  is  the  — 


BELL  OF  THE  CHURCH  OF  PORT  ROYAL. 

The  church  of  Port  Royal,  which  fell  during  the 
earthquake,  had  been  erected  only  ten  years,  on 
which  occasion  a prophetic  text  was  the  subject  of 
the  consecration  sermon,  and  the  tremendous  judg- 
ments under  which  the  unfortunate  town  soon  la- 
bored could  not  but  recall  the  words,  “ Put  off  thy 
shoes  from  off  thy  feet,  for  the  place  whereon  thou 
standest  is  holy  ground.”  The  sermon  was  printed 


64 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


at  the  request  of  Sir  Henry  Morgan  and  others, 
whose  liberal  contributions  supplied  the  funds  to 
build  the  church  ; in  fact,  it  was  built  with  the  fruits 
of  piracy.  This  bell,  which  was  hung  in  it,  prob- 
ably belonged  to  the  old  Spanish  church  which  this 
church  replaced.  Tradition  says  that  the  bell  was 
given  to  the  old  church  of  Cagua  (Port  Royal)  by 
a convent  in  Spain  ; but  it  is  possible  that  it  is  the 
bell  that  hung  in  the  great  church  of  St.  Jago  de 
la  Vega  (Spanish  Town)  when  the  English  took 
possession,  which  we  are  informed  was  cast  of  cop- 
per produced  in  the  island. 

This  bell  was  recovered  after  the  earthquake,  and 
was  hung  in  the  new  church,  built  in  1720,  which 
occupied  the  site  of  the  old  one  destroyed  by  the 
earthquake.  Either  during  the  ordinary  course  of 
events,  by  the  continual  beating  of  the  clapper, 
through  a flaw  in  the  metal,  or  through  its  fall  at 
the  time  of  the  earthquake,  the  bell  was  cracked ; 
but  after  its  recovery  the  crack  was  stayed  by  a 
drill-hole.  In  1855,  as  the  crack  had  extended  in 
two  directions  and  rendered  the  bell  useless,  the 
churchwardens  sold  it  for  old  metal.  During  the 
administration  of  Sir  John  Peter  Grant  it  was 
brought  to  his  notice  that  it  was  lying  in  an  old 
curiosity  shop  in  Kingston,  in  imminent  danger  of 
being  melted  down ; and  it  was  purchased  by  the 
Government,  and  deposited  at  the  Ordinance  wharf, 
whence  it  found  its  way  to  the  Institute  of  Jamaica, 
where  it  is  now  on  exhibition. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


65 


THE  MACES. 

There  are  shown  in  a case  two  maces ; one  was 
once  used  at  the  meetings  of  the  House  of  As- 
sembly, and  the  other  at  those  of  the  Legislative 
Council. 

The  older  of  the  two  maces  is  surmounted  by  a 
royal  crown,  on  the  base  of  which  are  the  British 
coat-of-arms  as  used  from  1714  to  1801,  and  the 
letters  G.  R.  Around  the  head,  in  panels  divided 
by  caryatides,  are  the  emblems  of  England,  Scot- 
land, Ireland,  France,  and  Jamaica.  It  bears  the 
London  Hall  mark  and  date  of  1753,  and  the 
initials  M.  F.  of  the  maker,  Mordecai  Fox  of 
London. 

The  other  mace  is  similar  in  appearance,  but  of 
a little  later  date,  1787,  and  bears  the  initials  H.  G. 
of  the  maker,  Henry  Green  of  London. 

The  library  contains  many  rare  old  books  and 
pamphlets  upon  the  natural  history,  botany,  geog- 
raphy, and  history  of  Jamaica;  and  the  obliging 
custodians  of  these  treasures  are  very  ready  to  as- 
sist the  delver-in  after  old  records.  Here  we  go 
back  to  the  days  of  Spanish  rule,  piratic  atrocity, 
of  English  ascendency,  of  slave  insurrections,  and 
tyranny  of  the  masters.  The  museum,  which  is  in  a 
separate  building  from  the  library,  contains  many 
objects  of  interest  which  will  well  repay  inspection. 
Among  them  is  a collection  illustrative  of  the  geol- 
ogy of  the  island  made  by  officers  of  the  Geologi- 
cal Survey  between  the  years  i860  and  1866.  The 
collection  is  rich  in  tertiary  fossils,  etc.,  and  its  value 


66 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


is  greatly  enhanced  by  the  carefully  prepared  maps 
showing  the  geological  formation  of  the  different 
parishes.  The  herbarium  contains  complete  sets 
of  ferns,  grasses,  sedges,  and  orchids  of  Jamaica. 
There  are  also  well-preserved  specimens  of  the 
various  shells,  fishes,  birds,  reptiles,  and  insects  of 
the  island.  A map  of  Jamaica,  modelled  in  relief 
by  Mr.  Thomas  Harrison,  late  surveyor-general, 
shows  the  conformation  of  the  surface  of  the  island. 
There  is  also  a fine  collection  of  polished  speci- 
mens of  native  woods,  and  of  the  natural  products 
of  the  island,  such  as  fibres  in  the  raw  and  pre- 
pared states.  One  article  with  a grim  and  grew- 
some  interest  is  an  iron  cage  or  gibbet.  It  was 
unearthed  in  Sandy  Gully,  in  St.  Andrews,  some 
years  ago,  and  in  it  was  enclosed  the  bones  of  a 
woman.  This  cage  of  strap-iron  is  so  constructed 
as  to  fit  the  human  body  with  bands  around  the 
neck,  breast,  and  loins  ; bars  and  stirrups  for  the 
legs  and  feet ; the  latter  having  sharp  spikes  to 
press  into  the  soles  of  the  occupant’s  feet,  and  a 
ring  at  the  top  of  the  structure  to  suspend  it  by. 

The  use  to  which  this  awful  instrument  of  death 
was  applied  is  described  by  Bryan  Edwards.1  He 
says,  — 

“ The  circumstances  which  distinguish  the  Koroman- 
tyn,  or  Gold  Coast  negroes  from  all  others,  are  firmness 
both  of  body  and  mind,  a ferociousness  of  disposition, 
but  withal,  activity,  courage,  and  stubbornness,  which 
prompt  them  to  enterprises  of  difficulty  and  danger,  and 


1 “ History  of  the  West  Indies,”  by  Bryan  Edwards,  vol.  ii.,  Book  iv.  p.  74. 


awaavj-^ 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


67 


enable  them  to  meet  death  in  its  most  horrible  shape 
with  fortitude  or  indifference.  This  was  shown  in  the 
negro  rebellion  of  1760.  It  arose  at  the  instigation  of  a 
Koromantyn  negro,  who  had  been  a chief  in  Guinea,  and 
broke  out  on  the  frontier  plantation  in  St.  Mary’s  parish 
and  the  adjoining  estate  of  Trinity,  the  property  of  my 
deceased  relation  and  benefactor,  Zachary  Bayly.  On 
these  plantations  were  upward  of  one  hundred  Gold  Coast 
negroes  newly  imported ; and  I do  not  believe  that  an  in- 
dividual amongst  them  had  received  the  least  shadow  of 
ill-treatment  from  the  time  of  their  arrival.  Having  col- 
lected themselves  into  a body,  about  one  o’clock  in  the 
morning  they  proceeded  to  the  fort  at  Port  Maria,  killed 
the  sentinel,  and  provided  themselves  with  as  great  a 
quantity  of  arms  and  ammunition  as  they  could  conve- 
niently dispose  of.  Being  by  this  time  joined  by  a number 
of  their  countrymen  from  the  neighboring  plantation,  they 
marched  up  the  high  road  that  led  to  the  interior  parts  of 
the  country,  carrying  death  and  desolation  as  they  went. 
At  Ballard’s  Valley  they  surrounded  the  overseer's  house 
about  four  in  the  morning,  in  which,  finding  all  the  white 
servants  in  bed,  they  butchered  every  one  of  them  in  the 
most  savage  manner,  and  literally  drank  their  blood 
mixed  with  rum.  At  Esher  and  other  estates  they  exhib- 
ited the  same  tragedy,  and  then  set  fire  to  the  buildings 
and  canes.  In  one  morning  they  murdered  between  thirty 
and  forty  whites  and  mulattoes,  not  sparing  even  infants 
at  the  breast.  Before  their  progress  was  stopped.  Tacky 
the  chief  was  killed  in  the  woods  by  one  of  the  parties 
that  went  in  pursuit  of  them ; but  some  others  of  the  ring- 
leaders being  taken,  and  a general  inclination  to  revolt 
appearing  among  all  the  Koromantyn  negroes  in  the 
island,  it  was  thought  necessary  to  make  a few  terrible 
examples  of  some  of  the  most  guilty.  Of  three  who  were 
clearly  proven  to  have  been  concerned  in  the  murders  of 
Ballard's  Valley,  one  was  condemned  to  be  burnt,  and  the 


68 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


other  two  to  be  hung  up  in  irons  and  left  to  perish  in  that 
dreadful  situation.  The  wretch  that  was  burnt  was  made 
to  sit  on  the  ground,  and  his  body  being  chained  to  an 
iron  stake,  the  fire  was  applied  to  his  feet.  He  uttered  not 
a groan,  and  saw  his  legs  reduced  to  ashes  with  the  utmost 
composure  ; after  which  one  of  his  arms,  by  some  means, 
getting  loose,  he  snatched  a brand  from  the  fire  that  was 
consuming  him,  and  flung  it  in  the  face  of  the  executioner. 

The  two  that  were  hung  up  alive  were  indulged,  at  their 
own  request,  with  a hearty  meal  immediately  before  they 
were  suspended  on  the  gibbet,  which  was  erected  in  the 
parade  of  the  town  of  Kingston.  From  that  time  until 
they  expired  they  never  uttered  the  least  complaint  except 
only  on  a cold  night ; but  diverted  themselves  all  day  long 
in  discourse  with  their  countrymen,  who  were  permitted, 
very  improperly,  to  surround  the  gibbet.  On  the  seventh 
day  a notion  prevailed  among  the  spectators,  that  one  of 
them  wished  to  communicate  an  important  secret  to  his 
master,  my  near  relation,  who  being  in  St.  Mary’s  parish, 
the  commanding  officer  sent  for  me.  I endeavored  by 
means  of  an  interpreter  to  let  him  know  I was  present ; but 
I could  not  understand  what  he  said  in  return.  I remem- 
ber that  both  he  and  his  fellow-sufferers  laughed  immod- 
erately at  something  that  occurred,  I know  not  what. 
The  next  morning  one  of  them  silently  expired,  as  did  the 
others  on  the  morning  of  the  ninth  day.” 

Such  were  the  uses  the  iron  cage  was  put  to,  that 
we  now  see  before  us,  as  described  by  an  eye-wit- 
ness. In  this  nineteenth  century  it  does  not  seem 
possible  that  such  cruelties  could  ever  have  been 
practised ; yet  burning  negroes  at  the  stake  is  no 
uncommon  occurrence  in  some  of  the  Southern 
States  at  the  present  time. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


69 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

PLACES  OF  INTEREST  IN  THE  VICINITY  OF  KINGSTON. 

CASTLETON  GARDENS. 

The  governor’s  residence,  or  King’s  House  as  it 
is  called  in  Jamaica,  is  five  miles  from  Kingston,  on 
the  slope  which  gradually  ascends  from  the  sea  to 
the  mountains.  There  are  more  objects  of  interest 
to  be  seen  in  a drive  to  King’s  House  than  in  any 
other  direction  outside  of  Kingston.  The  district 
through  which  the  road  passes  is  known  as  the 
Liguanea  Plain.  The  first  mile  or  two  after  leaving 
the  town,  the  road  passes  houses  fronting  on  the 
street,  that  are  generally  insignificant ; it  then  comes 
to  the  better  sort,  behind  walls  or  overhung  with 
trees,  which  make  them  imperfectly  visible.  The 
race-course  is  now  reached ; and  beyond  it,  on  the 
northeast  side,  is  the  Up-park  camp  of  about  thirty 
acres  in  extent.  One  battalion  of  the  West  India 
regiment  of  negroes  is  always  stationed  here,  in 
addition  to  a number  of  white  troops.  The  place 
contains  good  barracks,  parade-ground,  swimming- 
bath,  hospital,  and  everything  to  make  life  as  endu- 
rable as  possible.  It  is  a cool,  healthy  location,  and 
the  views  are  fine.  The  highway  upon  which  the 
street-cars  run  leads  out  to  Halfway  Tree;  it  is 
the  beginning  of  the  great  highway  that  crosses  the 


70 


STARK  \S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


island,  passing  Constant  Springs,  over  Stony  Hill, 
across  the  mountains  of  the  interior,  following  the 
Wag  Water  River,  past  Castleton  Gardens,  and 
joining  the  coast-road  at  Annotto  Bay. 

At  every  part  of  the  day  the  road  is  well  travelled, 
especially  on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays,  which  are 
market-days,  when  the  passing  peasantry  become 
a multitude,  — a tide  that  flows  in  the  morning,  and 
ebbs  in  the  evening. 

The  highway  is  dotted  with  residences  of  Kings- 
ton merchants,  professional  men,  and  higher  grade 
of  government  officials,  many  of  them  occupying 
the  site  of  former  pens,  the  names  of  which  they  re- 
tain. Around  the  houses  grow  broad-leaved  agave 
plants,  segregated  branches  of  palms,  great  blazing 
masses  of  scarlet  or  yellow  bloom,  flowering  shrubs 
and  trees,  clusters  of  deep-hued  mango  foliage,  and 
groups  of  tree-ferns,  or  beds  of  glowing  blossoms. 
The  only  visible  drawback  to  these  residences  is 
the  clouds  of  dust  that  are  apt  to  roll  in  from  the 
road  in  the  dry  season. 

HALFWAY  TREE. 

The  village  of  Halfway  Tree  is  three  miles  from 
Kingston.  It  is  situated  on  the  cross-road,  where 
there  is  a cluster  of  houses,  a court-house,  market, 
and  a beautifully  restored  parish  church.  Sir 
Nicholas  Lawes,  once  governor  of  the  island,  is 
buried  here.  In  the  churchyard  reposes  all  that  is 
mortal  of  Robert  Munroe  Harrison,  brother  of  Presi- 
dent William  Henry  Harrison,  and  great-uncle  of 


3 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


7 1 


Benjamin  Harrison,  late  President  of  the  United 
States.  He  was  wounded  while  serving  his  country 
on  the  frigate  “ Constitution,”  in  an  engagement 
with  a French  vessel ; later  he  commanded  an  armed 
ship  fitted  out  against  the  French;  and  in  1821 
was  sent  by  the  United  States  on  a confidential  mis- 
sion to  the  British  West  Indies  for  the  purpose  of 
negotiating  a treaty  opening  their  ports  to  American 
commerce.  In  1831  he  became  American  consul 
at  Jamaica,  under  appointment  from  President  Jack- 
son,  and  so  continued  until  his  death  in  1858.  Mrs. 
Harrison  had  died  the  previous  year.  In  this  church, 
Livingston,  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  is  said  to  have  been  married. 

The  street-cars  continue  to  run  to  the  north  as 
far  as  Constant  Spring,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
famous  sugar  estates  on  the  island.  It  is  now  out 
of  cultivation,  and  is  occupied  as  a hotel  site.  This 
hotel  is  an  imposing  structure  of  four  hundred  feet 
frontage,  and  three  stories  in  height.  The  site  is 
six  hundred  feet  above  sea  level ; and  from  the  cool 
and  shady  piazzas  which  surround  the  seaward 
front,  one  of  the  most  exquisite  panoramic  views  in 
Jamaica  can  be  had.  The  hotel  is  perfect  from  a 
hygienic  point  of  view,  but  will  never  be  a pecuni- 
ary success  until  it  is  connected  with  Kingston  by 
electric  cars. 

At  a little  distance  from  Halfway  Tree  are  sev- 
eral fine  residences,  and  among  them  the  King’s 
House,  the  official  residence  of  the  governor  of 
Jamaica.  This  is  a fine  residence,  of  the  old  West 
Indian  type,  with  upper  and  lower  verandas  shaded 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


72 

by  jalousies  entirely  enclosing  it ; attached  to  it  is 
a magnificent  ball-room,  which  was  built  at  a cost 
of  £5,000.  The  drive  to  the  house  through  the 
shrubbery  and  handsome  trees  that  shade  it  is  very 
fine  ; and  the  lawns  and  grounds  attached  to  the  res- 
idence are  beautifully  laid  out,  and  contain  some 
rare  and  unique  specimens  of  flowering  plants. 
Altogether  it  is  a sumptuous  sort  of  place,  where  a 
governor  with  £6,000  a year  might  spend  his  term 
of  office  with  considerable  comfort  and  ease. 

HOPE  GARDENS. 

The  Hope  Road,  leading  from  Halfway  Tree, 
passes  the  Jamaica  High  School  and  University 
College  ; it  is  an  elegant  structure  of  good  dimen- 
sions. The  High  School  and  College  are  combined 
in  one  building.  Near  the  college  is  the  Govern- 
ment Botanical  Garden,  two  hundred  and  twenty 
acres  in  extent,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  hills 
which  bound  the  limits  of  the  Liguanea  Plain,  five 
miles  distant  from  Kingston.  It  has  been  decided 
to  make  Hope  Garden  the  chief  botanic  garden  of 
the  island.  New  varieties  of  fruit,  fibre  plants,  co- 
coanuts,  cane,  and  rare  flowering-plants  for  shade 
and  ornamental  purposes,  are  here  propagated.  It 
is  largely  through  these  experimental  grounds  and 
cultivation,  often  kept  up  at  great  cost,  that  Jamaica 
has  become  the  garden  spot  it  is  to-day.  Probably 
two-thirds  of  the  fruits,  nuts,  choice  woods,  and 
economic  or  medicinal  plants  now  grown  in  Jamaica 
were  introduced  from  foreign  countries.  The  an- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


73 


nual  mean  temperature  in  these  gardens  is  78°  Far., 
and  the  rainfall  50.19  inches  per  annum. 

CASTLETON  GARDEN. 

The  Government  Botanic  Gardens  at  Castleton 
are  nineteen  miles  from  Kingston,  on  what  is  known 
as  the  Junction  Road,  previously  referred  to  as  the 
road  crossing  the  island  from  Kingston  to  Annotto 
Bay.  The  drive  from  Kingston  to  Castleton  Gar- 
dens is  one  of  the  most  delightful  excursions  out  of 
Kingston.  It  is  an  all-day  trip,  and  the  start  should 
be  made  shortly  after  sunrise ; then  the  heat,  glare, 
and  dust  which  annoy  travellers  on  the  Halfway 
Tree  section  will  be  avoided.  After  passing  Con- 
stant Spring,  and  Mona  estates,  with  their  disused 
chimneys  and  ruined  buildings  of  old  sugar-making 
works,  the  air  becomes  fresher,  the  fields  and  foli- 
age greener,  the  light  pleasanter  than  on  the  lower 
ground.  The  limits  of  the  plain  are  reached ; and 
in  front  rises  the  crumpled,  irregular  hills  that  slope 
back  towards  the  Wag  Water  River,  or  rise  fold  and 
convolute  fold  on  ridge  and  spur,  till  far  in  the  dis- 
tance they  reach  the  highest  altitude  on  the  island, 
a height  of  7,423  feet,  in  the  Blue  Mountain  Peak. 
The  ride  to  Castleton  is  over  one  of  the  finest  roads 
on  the  island.  Forest  trees  make  a roof  overhead 
as  the  carriage  ascends.  Stony  Hill,  near  the  top 
of  the  hill,  is  a little  settlement,  — a few  cabins  and 
stores. 

A road  to  the  left  leads  to  the  grounds  of  the 
Reformatory,  a large  building  originally  used  as 


74 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


barracks,  but  now  the  home  of  a little  army  of  bad 
boys  under  the  Government’s  fostering  care.  The 
view  from  the  top  of  the  hill  is  magnificent.  In 
the  alluvial  meadows  on  the  river  side  are  tobacco 
fields  cleanly  and  carefully  kept,  belonging  to  a 
small  colony  of  Cubans.  There  is  sago,  too,  and 
ginger,  tamarinds,  cocoa,  and  coffee,  groves  of  co- 
coanut,  miles  of  plantain  and  banana,  hillsides  cov- 
ered with  ferns,  houses  wattled  and  covered  with 
clay,  and  red  flowers  of  the  orchid  crlowino-  like 
spots  of  flame  from  the  cottonwood  branches. 
Women  are  met  striding  along  under  their  burdens, 
destined  for  the  market  in  Kingston,  their  little  ones 
with  little  baskets  trudging  by  their  side.  Of  the 
lords  of  creation,  perhaps  one  to  every  one  hundred 
women  will  be  met,  usually  riding  on  mule  or 
donkey,  with  pipe  in  mouth,  and  carrying  nothing. 
The  ntcro  women  in  all  the  West  Indies  Islands  do 
most  of  the  work  ; the  men  live  in  idleness. 

At  several  points  are  sharp  curves  where  the 
road  follows  the  dip  of  some  vertical  ravine.  There 
is  an  ancient  and  massive  look  about  the  safeguard 
walls  of  these  places ; but  the  most  picturesque, 
quaint,  and  solid-looking  piece  of  engineering  on 
the  road  is  where  a well-buttressed  bridge  spans  the 
Wag  Water  Loch  at  the  head  of  the  water-works 
system.  From  it  the  view  of  red-roofed  houses 
nestled  among  the  living  green,  the  flashing  waters, 
the  never-ceasing  variety  of  luxuriant  bloom,  com- 
bine to  satisfy  the  sense  and  still  to  excite  the 
imagination. 

Castleton  is  at  last  reached.  It  is  situated  in  a 


Road  to  Castleton. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


75 


deep  valley,  entirely  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains, 
through  which  flows  the  Wag  Water,  which  foams 
and  tumbles  through  the  valley  like  a true  mountain 
stream.  Nature  has  made  a garden  of  it,  with  all 
the  advantages  of  loveliness  and  fertility  that  a rich 
valley  and  a beautiful  stream  could  combine  to  fur- 
nish. Its  soil  is  rich  and  deep,  its  climate  never  cold, 
nor  even  uncomfortably  hot,  the  mean  temperature 
being  750  Far.,  and  the  rainfall  109  inches  annually. 

In  such  a place  of  natural  advantages  and  beauty 
the  Government  built  wisely  a garden,  where  all  the 
strange  and  useful  plants  of  other  warm  countries 
might  be  fostered  and  acclimated.  Here  bloom 
myriads  of  native  and  imported  orchids.  India 
and  the  isles  of  the  sea  have  been  called  upon  to 
contribute  their  valuable  foliage,  food-plants,  medi- 
cinal trees,  and  herbs.  There  is  a large  industrial 
ground  for  novel  economic  plants.  It  contains  about 
forty  thousand  plants,  such  as  kolanuts,  cacao,  olive, 
sugar-cane,  rubber-plants,  nutmeg,  clove,  black  pep- 
per, mango,  vanilla,  cardamon,  pineapple,  cinna- 
mon, tea,  etc.  Taste  and  skill  have  combined  to 
arrange  these  beautiful  trophies  in  a manner  pleas- 
ing to  the  eye ; and  good  sense  has  dominated  the 
arrangement  so  that  the  visitor  may  feel  at  his  ease 
and  find  comfort  on  the  benches  that  are  placed 
along  the  well-kept  pathway.  Across  the  road,  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  are  cool  arbors  amid  groups 
of  bamboo-trees,  where  the  visitor  can  enjoy  a view 
of  the  river  as  it  loiters  in  circled  pools,  or  leaps  by 
in  eddying  rapids.  This  is  a favorite  spot  for  pic- 
nic parties  to  eat  their  lunch  and  bathe. 


;6 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


On  the  bank  of  the  river  is  a bower  formed  of 
twisted  vines,  so  thick  that  neither  sun  nor  rain  can 
penetrate  the  roof ; the  floor  is  of  shining  shingle, 
and  the  air  cool  from  off  the  water.  It  is  a spot 
which  a Nymph  or  Naiad  might  haunt. 

The  Government  has  leased  to  the  Boston  Fruit 
Company,  at  a nominal  price,  eighteen  acres  of  the 
gardens,  on  which  they  have  erected  a group  of 
small  cottages,  and  a dining-hall  for  the  entertain- 
ment of  visitors.  Before  the  Port  Antonio  branch 
of  the  railroad  was  built,  this  was  the  most  direct 
road  between  Kingston  and  Port  Antonio.  Castle- 
ton  was  used  as  a stopping-place  by  travellers 
between  those  places.  It  was,  therefore,  found 
necessary  by  the  Boston  Fruit  Company  to  erect  a 
place  for  their  entertainment,  as  they  were  the  par- . 
ties  chiefly  interested  in  the  travel  this  way.  Since 
the  opening  of  the  railroad  the  place  is  but  little 
needed ; it  has  gone  the  way  of  the  roadside  inn  of 
olden  time. 


Castleton  Gardens. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


77 


CHAPTER  IX. 

NEWCASTLE,  GORDON  TOWN,  AND  BLUE 
MOUNTAIN  PEAK. 

Every  visitor  to  Jamaica  should,  if  possible,  visit 
Newcastle,  the  mountain  camp  of  the  white  troops. 
Formerly  it  was  necessary  to  take  a carriage,  or 
the  stage  which  leaves  Kingston  daily,  to  Gordon 
Town ; and  from  there  the  rest  of  the  journey  up 
the  mountain  is  done  on  horseback. 

Recently  a carriage-road  has  been  built  from 
Newcastle,  which  connects  with  the  Stony  Hill 
road.  The  former  is  by  far  the  more  picturesque 
and  interesting  route.  Leaving  Kingston,  the  way 
to  Gordon  Town  is  along  the  side  of  the  Hope 
River,  which  has  cut  its  way  out  from  the  moun- 
tains through  a narrow  and  deep  ravine.  The  bed 
of  the  river  is  covered  with  large  round  bowlders, 
weighing  hundreds  of  tons,  and  brought  down  by 
the  floods  during  the  rainy  season  ; at  such  times 
the  river  rises  thirty  feet  above  the  winter  level. 
Above  the  water  line  the  tropical  vegetation  is  seen 
in  all  its  glory,  — ferns  and  plantains  waving  in  the 
moist  air  ; cedar,  tamarinds,  gum-trees,  orange-  and 
palm-trees  striking  their  roots  among  the  clefts  of 
the  crags,  and  hanging  out  over  the  abysses  below 
them.  Agave  plants  throw  up  their  tall  spiral 


78 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRATED 


stems ; flowering  shrubs  and  creepers  cover  bank 
and  slope  with  green,  blue,  white,  and  yellow ; and 
above  and  overhead,  as  you  drive  along,  the  great 
limestone  cliffs  stand  out  in  bold  relief. 

Farther  up  the  hillsides,  where  the  slopes  are  less 
precipitous,  the  forest  has  been  burned  off  by  the 
negroes,  who  use  fire  to  clear  the  ground  for  their 
yam-gardens.  The  road  leads  through  scenery  of 
this  kind  for  a distance  of  about  three  miles,  when 
it  is  crossed  by  a bridge.  About  a mile  farther  on 
is  Gordon  Town,  situated  where  the  valley  widens 
out,  and  where  there  are  several  cocoa  and  coffee 
plantations.  Through  an  opening,  Newcastle  is 
seen  far  above  ; the  buildings  look  like  specks  of 
snow  against  the  mountain  side.  Here,  at  a way- 
side  inn,  horses  and  refreshments  are  obtained ; for 
the  carriage  road  ends  here,  and  the  rest  of  the 
journey  must  be  done  on  horseback. 

For  the  first  two  miles  the  road  is  tolerably  level, 
following  the  bank  of  the  river  under  the  shade  of 
the  forest.  It  then  narrows  into  a horse-path,  that 
zigzags  up  the  side  of  a torrent ; then  passes  by 
deep  pools  of  clear,  cool  mountain  water ; then 
by  the  edges  of  uncomfortable  precipices.  Then 
again  there  is  a level,  with  a village,  coffee  planta- 
tion, orange  and  banana  groves.  After  this  the 
vegetation  changes  and  is  not  so  tropical.  Many 
plants  are  seen  that- grow  in  temperate  climates; 
the  track  becomes  rough  and  narrow,  and  riders 
are  obliged  to  ride  in  single  file.  After  an  hour’s 
ride,  and  usually  passing  through  a cloud  or  two, 
the  lowest  range  of  houses  is  reached  at  an  eleva- 


Road  to  Newcastle. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


79 


tion  of  four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level. 
From  thence  the  houses  rise  tier  above  tier  for  live 
hundred  feet  more.  The  hillside  is  bare,  and  the 
slope  so  steep  that  there  is  no  standing  on  it  save 
where  it  has  been  flattened  by  the  spade.  The 
view  from  here  is  glorious.  The  Liguanea  plain, 
Kingston,  the  Harbor,  Port  Royal,  the  Palisades, 
and  the  sea  beyond,  — all  appear  clear  and  distinct 
like  a view  from  a balloon. 

Ships  and  steamers  in  the  harbor  and  ocean  ap- 
pear like  toys  ; then  a passing  cloud  of  drizzling 
rain  will  for  a few  minutes  shut  out  the  view ; for, 
fine  and  bright  as  the  air  may  be  below,  the  mois- 
ture in  the  air  at  this  high  altitude  is  being  con- 
stantly condensed  into  clouds  of  fine  rain.  Here  is 
stationed  a regiment  of  British  troops,  for  health’s 
sake  only,  and  to  be  fit  for  work  if  wanted  below. 

Continuing  the  way  up,  the  track  becomes,  if 
anything,  steeper,  till  the  highest  point  of  the  camp 
is  reached,  where  the  officers'  quarters  are  situated, 
— pretty  cottages  with  creeping  vines  climbing  over 
them.  Around  the  houses  are  gardens  in  which 
English  flowers  and  vegetables  grow.  The  tempera- 
ture here  never  rises  above  70°  nor  falls  below  6o°. 

Fires  are  required  to  keep  the  damp  out,  and 
blankets  to  sleep  under.  The  camp  is  very  healthy, 
sickness  of  any  kind  being  rare.  Besides  the 
novelty  of  going  from  a tropical  to  a temperate 
climate  in  such  a short  space  of  time,  the  view 
alone  from  Newcastle  is  well  worth  the  trip  up 
there,  to  say  nothing  of  the  beautiful  mountain 
scenery  through  which  the  road  passes. 


So 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Parties  making  this  excursion  should  leave 
Kingston  at  sunrise,  and  take  a hamper  of  sup- 
plies with  them,  as  no  refreshments  of  any  kind 
can  be  purchased  at  Newcastle. 

Another  line  excursion  from  Kingston,  via  Gor- 
don Town,  is  to 

BLUE  MOUNTAIN  PEAK. 

Every  visitor  to  Jamaica  should  visit  Blue  Moun- 
tain Peak,  the  highest  point  in  Jamaica,  7,575  feet 
above  sea  level. 

It  is  best  to  take  two  days  on  the  trip,  sleeping 
one  night  in  the  hut  on  the  peak,  so  as  to  witness 
the  glorious  effects  of  the  sunrise  in  the  morning. 
Such  provision  should  be  carried  as  may  be  deemed 
necessary  for  a two  days’  outing ; and  a supply  of 
rugs  and  blankets  should  be  taken  to  protect  from 
the  cold,  as  the  thermometer  fluctuates  between  40° 
and  50°  between  sunset  and  sunrise.  It  will  be 
well  also  to  take  a rubber  coat  along,  for  in  pass- 
ing up  through  the  clouds  one  is  likely  to  get  wet. 

The  hut  on  the  peak  contains  some  crockery, 
glassware,  and  cooking  utensils.  The  key  to  the 
hut  can  be  obtained  on  the  way  up,  at  the  Farm 
Hill  estate,  six  miles  from  the  summit. 

Ponies  or  mules  accustomed  to  mountain  work 
can  be  obtained  at  Gordon  Town.  The  road  to 
the  peak  was  constructed  some  years  ago  by  Sir 
Henry  Norman  at  his  own  expense.  Although  at 
some  points  the  road  is  narrow,  rugged,  and  pre- 
cipitous, yet  on  the  whole  it  is  good,  and  perfectly 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


8l 


safe  to  a cool  and  cautious  rider,  and  is  easily 
traversed  by  any  one  possessed  of  average  physical 
endurance. 

The  scenery  through  the  whole  journey  is  mag- 
nificent and  grand  beyond  description.  For  sub- 
limity combined  with  perfect  loveliness,  there  is 
scarcely  anything  that  can  be  compared  with  the 
Blue  Mountain  Peak. 

After  leaving  Gordon  Town  the  road  passes 
through  Guava  Ridge,  distant  four  miles,  2,866 
feet  elevation ; then  two  miles  beyond  it  crosses 
Yallahs  River  ; three  miles  more,  and  Farm  Hill  is 
passed.  Newcastle  is  seen  on  the  left,  where  the 
British  eagle  has  made  his  lofty  eyrie.  Whitfield 
Hall  and  Abbey  Green  are  next  reached,  at  an 
elevation  of  4,000  feet.  The  wind  now  blows  cold 
and  keen,  although  the  sun  is  out  bright  and  clear. 
At  an  elevation  of  6,000  feet  the  last  vestige  of 
cultivation  is  seen,  and  then  the  primeval  mountain 
forest  is  entered  ; there  is  a wild,  awe-inspiring  love- 
liness and  grandeur  in  this  dark,  sylvan  solitude. 
One  effort  more  and  the  highest  point  in  Jamaica 
is  reached.  A wind,  cool  as  the  breeze  which 
blows  across  a Highland  moor  in  October,  brings 
the  blood  tingling  to  the  cheek.  Ice  is  said  to 
form  occasionally  on  and  near  Blue  Mountain 
Peak. 

Westward  the  whole  fair  island  of  Jamaica  lies 
mapped  beneath  one’s  feet ; purple  hills  rising  be- 
hind purple  hills,  melting  at  last  into  the  shadows 
of  distance,  and  closed  by  a glorious  crimson  sun- 
set. Darker  and  darker  grow  the  shadows  on  the 


82 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


hillsides ; tiny  snow-white  clouds  rest  like  feathery 
plumes  on  their  crests,  or  rise  like  a fume  of  in- 
cense to  greet  the  brightening  stars.  A cluster  of 
lights  in  the  south  shows  where  Kingston  lies.  And 
so  the  gaze  is  riveted  in  reverent  silence  until  dark- 
ness and  mist  shut  out  the  view.  Then,  as  repose 
is  sought  for  the  night,  the  necessity  of  bringing 
rugs  and  blankets  will  be  fully  appreciated. 


JAA1AICA  GUIDE. 


33 


CHAPTER  X. 

PORT  ROYAL. 

Port  Royal  has  had  a most  eventful  history, 
and  has  occupied  a very  important  part  in  West 
Indian  affairs.  But  little  now  remains  of  the  old 
town  save  parts  of  the  fortifications  and  sea  wall. 
It  has  in  turn  been  devastated  by  fire,  depopulated 
by  pestilence,  and  destroyed  by  earthquake. 

Port  Royal  is  situated  at  the  entrance  to  Kingston 
Harbor,  at  the  end  of  the  Palisades,  the  coral  bar- 
rier reef  which  forms  the  breakwater  to  the  harbor 
of  Kingston.  Here  is  a harbor  large  enough  to 
shelter  the  fleets  of  the  world.  Scarcely  any  body 
of  water  of  equal  size  presents  so  much  food  for 
meditation  as  this  old  harbor.  Here  lay  the  fleets 
of  the  early  Spanish  explorers  and  navigators ; here 
were  anchored  the  squadron  of  Penn  and  Venable, 
whose  followers  gave  Jamaica  to  England  in  Crom- 
well’s day.  Before  the  first  house  was  built  in 
Kingston,  Port  Royal  was  the  rendezvous  of  all 
English  ships  which  for  spoil  or  commerce  fre- 
quented the  West  Indian  seas.  It  was  here  that 
the  most  noted  pirates  and  buccaneers  the  world  has 
ever  known — Morgan,  Bartholomew,  and  others  of 
their  kind  — brought  their  booty,  after  the  conquest 
of  Spanish  galleons  and  of  South  American  cities, 


84 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


sold  their  plunder,  and  squandered  their  gains  in 
gambling  and  riot.  Here  were  landed  the  spoils 
of  Panama,  the  ransom  of  Maricabo,  and  the  gold 
and  jewels  and  silks  taken  from  rich  merchantmen 
bound  for  Hispaniola.  But  of  all  the  grim  stories 
that  the  night  wind  whispers,  the  weirdest  is  that 
of  the  lost  city  that  went  down  instantly,  with  her 
young  men  and  maidens,  old  men  and  children ; 
with  the  wine  of  the  feaster  half  drunk,  and  the 
prayer  of  remorse  half  said ; with  unfinished  curse, 
uncompleted  crime,  arrested  cruelty,  in  all  its  splen- 
dor and  guilt.  Here,  in  the  later  century  of  legiti- 
mate wars,  whole  fleets  were  gathered  to  take  in 
stores,  or  relit  when  shattered  by  engagements. 
Here  Nelson  had  been,  and  Collingwood  and  Jeiv 
vis,  and  other  great  naval  heroes.  In  this  spot 
more  than  any  other  beyond  Great  Britain  herself 
the  energy  of  the  Empire  once  was  throbbing. 

Leaving  the  market  wharf  at  Kingston  in  the 
swift  little  steamer  or  sailboats  that  ply  between 
Kingston  and  Port  Royal,  one  is  soon  carried  mer- 
rily over  the  placid  waters  of  the  harbor,  which  is 
protected  by  the  famous  beach  of  the  Palisades  from 
any  unwelcome  violence  of  the  sea.  Soon  the  dis- 
tant palisades  are  approached.  They  are  so  called 
because  from  the  distant  sea  the  tall  cocoanut  palms 
present  the  appearance  of  a palisaded  fence.  Then 
come  the  mangrove-covered  mud-flats.  This  spe- 
cies of  tree  grows  in  the  mud  along  the  seashore 
and  in  marshy  places,  and  is  found  only  in  tropi- 
cal or  semi-tropical  countries.  The  foliage  is  a dai'k 
green  ; and  from  the  branches  shoots  droop  down 


Kings  House 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


85 


and  take  root  in  the  mud,  similar  to  the  banyan- 
tree  of  India,  presenting  a most  peculiar  appearance. 
The  mangroves  jut  out  into  a green  prominence, 
which  is  known  as  — 

GALLOWS  POINT. 

Here  perished  miserably  the  pirate  and  buccaneer. 
Two  crews  of  Cuban  pirates  were  the  last  executed. 
The  following  account  of  their  capture  and  execu- 
tion may  prove  interesting  to  the  reader : — 

In  1822  Captain  Walcott  of  H.  M.  Frigate  Tyne 
captured  off  Cuba  a large  pirate  schooner  with  ten 
men  ; these  were  executed  on  the  7th  of  February, 
1823,  on  Gallows  Point,  where  so  many  before  had 
met  their  fate.  During  the  trial,  evidence  showed 
the  existence  of  a larger  vessel,  the  Zaragonaza, 
commanded  by  Aragonez,  and  manned  by  eighty 
desperate  outlaws.  On  the  death  of  the  ten  at  Gal- 
lows Point,  solemn  vengeance  against  all  English 
was  vowed  by  Aragonez  ; and  the  oath  was  taken 
by  the  whole  crew,  and  ratified  by  the  torture  and 
slaughter  of  their  own  black  Jamaica  cook,  the 
nearest  approach  to  an  Englishman  among  them. 

The  Tyne  and  Tharcian  sought,  viewed,  and 
chased  the  Zaragonaza  into  a shallow  inlet;  the 
attack  was  made  by  boats  from  the  frigates  ; the 
banks  were  lined  with  marksmen  landed  from  the  pi- 
rate. This,  however,  weakened  his  main  force  ; and 
the  boats,  pulling  in  under  fire  with  slight  loss,  cap- 
tured the  schooner,  and  hauled  up  the  Union  Jack 
over  their  swallow-tailed  black  flag.  About  twenty 


86 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


pirates  were  killed.  Those  ashore  escaped  into 
the  bush,  a few  swam  ashore,  the  sharks  got  their 
share,  and  the  balance  passed  through  Port  Royal 
to  their  trial  at  Kingston,  doubtless  viewing  the  un- 
sated gallows,  which  had  carried  their  ten  fellows, 
as  they  passed.  In  May  the  gallows  were  extended 
to  hold  sixteen,  and  supported  that  burden,  as  de- 
tailed faithfully  in  “Tom  Cringle’s  Log.”  This 
example  struck  terror  to  the  pirates,  and  their  Cuban 
haunts  were  broken  up  ; and  thenceforward  execu- 
tions of  pirates  ceased. 

THE  CHURCH. 

On  landing  at  Port  Royal,  there  is  but  little  in  the 
poor  fishermen’s  huts,  the  boat-slip,  and  the  turtle 
crawl,  to  recall  the  fabled  wealth  of  the  town  in 
olden  times.  The  fire  of  1703  took  much  that  the 
earthquake  of  1692  had  spared,  and  hurricane  and 
tempest  have  added  to  the  tale  of  destruction. 

It  is  usually  first  to  the  church  that  the  footprints 
of  modern  pilgrims  turn ; and  after  obtaining  the 
key  from  the  opposite  row  of  hovels,  entry  is  easily 
made,  and  acknowledged  by  a trifle  for  the  repairs 
and  restoration  hoped  for  by  the  vicar  and  all  friends 
of  the  place. 

The  church  has  little  in  architecture  to  repay  the 
visitor,  but  contains  objects  of  some  value  and  an- 
tiquity. There  is  an  old,  handsome,  mahogany 
gallery,  traced  and  carved  in  the  somewhat  heavy 
but  intricate  and  graceful  designs  of  the  Spaniards  ; 
while  the  chandelier  is  a pure  and  good  example  of 
eighteenth  century  work. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


8/ 


The  saddest  and  most  fascinating  things  about 
the  old  church  are  the  constantly  recurring  mural 
tablets.  Sometimes  sacred  to  the  memory  of  one, 
sometimes  of  an  entire  crew ; this  one  erected  by 
the  affection  of  a sister,  and  that  by  the  piety  of  a 
comrade ; four-fifths  told  of  victims  to  that  dread 
scourge,  yellow  fever.  Judging  by  these  records,  it 
would  seem  that  in  the  old  days  Port  Royal  was  a 
graveyard  for  the  British  navy  and  army ; a very 
plague-spot,  where  the  hardiest  laid  down  his  life  ; 
some  killed  by  fever,  some  by  accident  of  war  and 
sea,  some  decorated  with  the  honors  they  had  won 
in  a hundred  fights,  and  some  carried  off  before  they 
had  gathered  the  first  flowers  of  fame.  The  costli- 
ness of  many  of  these  memorials  is  an  affecting 
indication  how  precious  to  their  families  those  now 
resting  there  once  had  been.  One  in  high  relief  is 
a characteristic  specimen  of  Rubillac’s  workman- 
ship. It  is  to  a young  lieutenant  who  had  been 
killed  by  the  bursting  of  a gun.  Flame  and  vapor 
are  rushing  out  of  the  breach.  The  youth  himself 
is  falling  backwards  with  his  arms  spread  out,  and 
a vast  preternatural  face  is  glaring  at  him  through 
the  smoke.  It  is  bad  art,  though  the  execution  is 
remarkable.  The  ancient  capital  was  undoubtedly 
the  port  where  many  of  Great  Britain’s  sailors  and 
soldiers  were  permanently  discharged,  were  mus- 
tered out  of  the  service  by  that  grim  officer  — Death. 
But  it  is  also  true  that  for  years  Great  Britain  had 
no  other  marine  hospital  in  that  part  of  the  world 
than  the  one  at  Port  Royal ; so  the  officers  and  men 
from  infected  ports  and  vessels  in  South  America, 


88 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Central  America,  and  the  Antilles  were  all  brought 
to  Jamaica  to  die.  Vessels  that  had  never  been  to 
Jamaica  sent  their  crews  thither  by  other  vessels; 
and  the  result  was  an  importation  of  disease  that  in 
most  tropical  countries  would  ha  /e  proved  far  more 
disastrous  to  the  country  at  large  ; still,  these  tablets 
shock  the  visitor. 

Though  we  know  that  things  are  changed  now, 
and  that  the  sanitary  condition  of  Port  Royal  is  so 
greatly  improved  that  there  is  hardly  a possibility 
of  a return  of  the  old  scourge,  yet  one  cannot  avoid 
a feeling  of  chill  and  fear,  almost,  as  he  sees  these 
dreadful  reminders  of  the  reign  of  the  yellow  death, 
— three  and  four  deep,  covering  almost  the  entire 
wall  space  of  this  house  of  worship.  In  England 
the  names  of  Port  Royal  and  the  Palisades  have  a 
terrible  and  significant  meaning.  They  are  better 
known  there  than  any  other  places  in  Jamaica,  and 
are  inseparably  connected  with  death. 

THE  TOWN. 

Port  Royal  proper  is  a mere  aggregation  of  small 
houses,  not  always  in  the  best  repair,  inhabited  by- 
employees  of  the  dockyard,  or  fishermen  who  earn 
a precarious  livelihood  by  supplying  the  wants  of 
the  garrison  with  the  harvest  of  the  deep. 

The  town  includes  the  Royal  Naval  Dockyard, 
which  contains  large  and  spacious  repairing-shops 
and  storerooms,  and  a fine  hospital.  The  fortifica- 
tions of  Port  Royal  have  been  almost  entirly  recon- 
structed or  strengthened  within  recent  years  ; and  a 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


89 


new  fort,  called  Fort  Victoria,  has  been  equipped 
and  armed  with  breech-loading  rifles  and  cannon. 
The  fort  has  two  heavy  guns  mounted  en  barbette , 
and  a number  of  six-inch  and  quick-firing  guns 
mounted  in  casemates.  In  addition  to  this  primary 
armament,  there  is  a secondary  battery  of  quick- 
firing  guns,  which  occupy  every  coign  of  vantage 
so  as  to  guard  against  any  attempt  at  counter- 
mining on  the  part  of  an  enemy  who  might  have 
the  temerity  to  attempt  to  force  the  passage. 
There  are  also  other  batteries  besides  this,  of 
minor  account.  The  place  is  garrisoned  by  a 
body  of  West  Indian  troops,  — infantry,  engineers, 
and  artillery.  There  are  also  stationed  here  a bat- 
tery of  white  troops  and  the  various  auxiliaries  of 
a fortified  place. 

THE  EARTHQUAKE. 

There  is  in  the  British  Museum  a copy  of  an  old 
broadside  containing  a rudely  drawn  representation 
of  the  scene,  and  a copy  of  a letter  from  Captain 
Crocket  giving  an  account  of  that  terrible  disaster. 
A photographic  reproduction  of  the  cut,  reduced 
in  size,  is  printed  on  page  91  ; and  following  is  the 
principal  part  of  the  captain's  letter  relating  to  that 
event : — 

Port  Royal,  in  Jamaica, 

Sir  _ June  jo,  1792. 

This  with  my  Respects  to  all  our  Friends,  comes 
amidst  an  Inundation  of  the  deepest  Sorrow,  to  bring  you 
the  Dreadful  Account  of  our  Misery  and  Trouble,  tho  I 
presume  that  before  this  the  unwelcome  Tydings  are  ar- 


90 


STARK 'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


rived  at  your  Ears,  of  the  Dreadful  and  Terrible  Earth- 
quake which  happen’d  here  on  Tuesday , the  7///  of  this 
Month.  About  half  an  hour  after  Eleven  a Clock  in  the 
Morning,  the  Earth  suffer’d  a Trepidation  or  Trembling, 
which  in  a Minute’s  time  was  increased  to  that  degree, 
that  several  Houses  began  to  tumble  down,  and  in  a little 
time  after  the  Church  and  Tower,  the  Ground  Opening 
in  several  Places  at  once,  Swallow’d  up  Multitudes  of 
People  together,  whole  Streets  sinking  under  Water,  with 
Men,  Women  and  Children  in  them ; and  those  Houses 
which  but  just  now  appeared  the  Fairest  and  Loftiest  in 
these  Parts,  and  might  vie  with  the  finest  Buildings,  were 
in  a Moment  Sunk  down  into  the  Earth,  and  nothing  to 
be  seen  of  them  ; such  Crying,  such  Shrieking  and  Mourn- 
ing I never  heard,  nor  could  anything  in  my  Opinion, 
appear  more  Terrible  to  the  Eye  of  Man:  Here  a com- 
pany of  People  Swallow’d  up  at  once ; there  a whole 
Street  Tumbling  down  ; and  in  another  Place  the  trem- 
bling Earth  opening  her  Ravenous  Jaws,  let  in  the  Merci- 
less Sea,  so  that  this  Town  is  become  a heap  of  Ruines  ; 
Captain  Ruden's  House  was  one  of  the  first  that  Sunk, 
with  him,  his  Wife,  and  Family,  and  several  others  in  it: 
We  have  an  Account  from  St.  Ann's , that  above  a Thou- 
sand Acres  of  Woodland  are  covered  with  the  Sea,  De- 
stroying many  Plantations,  tumbling  down  most  of  the 
Houses,  Churches,  Bridges,  and  Sugar-mills  throughout 
this  Country,  so  that  those  who  have  saved  their  Lives 
have  lost  all  they  had;  I shall  only  Instance  myself  for 
one,  who  have  lost  my  Ship,  and  very  considerably  other 
ways,  but  I am  very  well  satisfied  because  it  is  the  Lord’s 
Doings. 


92 


ST  A RK  A ILL  USTRA  TED 


CHAPTER  XI. 

CANE  RIVER,  YALLAHS,  MORANT  BAY,  BATH,  AND 
MANCHIONEAL. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  drives  out  of  Kingston  is 
to  the  eastward,  along  the  shore  road.  As  the  rail- 
road does  not  reach  this  part  of  the  island,  the  only 
conveyance  is  by  carriage,  stage,  or  steamer.  To 
properly  make  this  trip  will  take  two  or  three  days’ 
time.  The  first  part  of  the  road  is  very  level,  and 
it  follows  the  shore.  Good  views  can  be  obtained 
of  the  harbor  and  the  Palisades  in  the  distance. 

CANE  RIVER. 

ITe  first  place  of  interest  after  leaving  Kingston 
is  the  magnificent  ravine  of  the  Cane  River,  nine 
miles  distant  from  Kingston,  and  one  and  a half 
miles  north  of  Seven  Miles,  a small  village  on  the 
Windward,  or  shore  road.  Mules  or  donkeys  may 
be  hired  at  Seven  Miles  to  carry  the  hamper  or  the 
visitor  himself  up  the  bed  of  the  river  to  the  cave  at 
the  falls.  This  is  a journey  that  cannot  be  under- 
taken when  the  river  is  in  flood,  as  it  is  then  almost 
impossible  to  cross  the  rocky  bed  at  the  fordings  in 
face  of  the  swift-rushing  torrents.  But  the  river  is 
only  in  this  state,  as  a rule,  during  the  rainy  season, 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


93 


when  open-air  excursions  are  out  of  the  question. 
The  track  along  the  river-bed  is  thickly  strewn  with 
huge  bowlders  of  limestone.  Gradually  the  bed  of 
the  river  narrows,  and  the  mouth  of  the  ravine  bursts 
upon  the  view  like  a gigantic  doorway,  flanked  by 
frowning  precipices  of  limestone  rock  rising  for  hun- 
dreds of  feet  above  the  river-bed,  the  impregnable 
home  of  thousands  of  orchids,  ferns,  and  innumer- 
able creepers.  In  the  vent-holes  in  the  limestone 
an  infinite  variety  of  birds  find  a safe  habitat  for  their 
young ; not  even  the  nimble  mongoose  could  find  a 
foothold  on  the  sheer  face  of  the  cliff.  The  breeze 
which  blows  through  this  yawning  canon  possesses 
a considerable  degree  of  cold  as  compared  with  the 
radiated  heat  of  the  sand  and  rocks  of  the  valley 
approaching  it.  Even  in  the  hottest  days  of  sum- 
mer, the  ravine  is  found  delightfully  cool ; as,  how- 
ever hot  the  breeze  may  be  when  it  enters,  it  is 
immediately  cooled  and  tempered  by  the  spray  of 
the  roaring  cascade  some  distance  on.  Now  the 
stream  becomes  more  rapid  as  the  channel  becomes 
narrower  and  more  rocky.  After  innumerable 
windings  and  turnings,  the  ascent  to  the  falls  is  made 
by  a solidly  constructed  pathway  and  parapet  wall, 
which  pass  under  and  through  “Three-fingered 
Jack's ’’cave  immediately  overlooking  the  falls.  The 
huge  basin  underneath  the  principal  cascade  is  an 
ideal  place  for  a “ dip,”  from  whence  it  is  possible 
to  pass  on  a shelf  of  rock  immediately  behind  the 
cascade,  and  see  the  stream  falling  over  like  a huge 
mass  of  green  fringed  with  silver.  The  cave  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  the  headquarters  of  the  famous 


94 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Three-fingered  Jack,  a noted  brigand,  who  used  to 
hold  up  travellers  on  the  road  between  Kingston 
and  Morant  Bay,  and  who  committed  such  depre- 
dations that  the  government  offered  a reward  for 
his  body,  either  dead  or  alive.  This  was  secured 
by  Readu,  a Maroon,  who  killed  the  robber  in  sin- 
gle fight,  and,  as  a proof,  brought  the  three-fingered 
hand  to  headquarters,  and  was  granted  a pension 
of  £20  a year  for  life.  These  falls  are  one  of  the 
most  dainty  bits  of  Jamaican  scenery,  a spot  to  be 
enthusiastic  over ; and  yet  few  people  in  Kingston 
scarcely  know  of  their  existence.  The  falls  can 
also  be  reached  from  Gordon  Town  in  a four 
hours’  ride. 

The  next  object  of  interest  worth  seeing  is  the 
Albion  sugar  plantation,  distant  about  eighteen  miles 
from  Kingston.  It  was  considered  for  many  years 
one  of  the  best  and  richest  in  the  island.  It  con- 
tains five  thousand  acres,  only  a portion  of  which 
are  now  under  cultivation.  All  the  latest  improve- 
ments in  sugar  machinery  are  in  use  here,  vacuum 
pans  and  centrifugal  process ; and  yet  the  owners 
find  it  difficult  to  compete  with  German  and  French 
bounty-fed  sugar.  There  is  a moist  freshness  and 
a greenness  in  these  large  cane-fields  that  are 
sought  for  in  vain  elsewhere  in  the  tropics. 

At  frequent  intervals  irrigating  streams,  so  neces- 
sary for  cane  culture,  flow  through  the  broad  acres 
of  growing  cane.  Beyond  these  immense  green 
fields  are  the  long  lines  of  barracks  or  quarters, 
painted  white,  and  flanking  the  clustered  stone 
and  brick  buildings  of  the  plantation.  Visitors  are 


Sugar  Cane  Culture. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


95 


welcome  to  the  estate,  and  every  courtesy  will  be 
shown  them  by  the  owner  or  manager. 

YALLAHS  RIVER. 

Leaving  Albion  with  its  living  green  behind,  the 
Yallahs  River  is  reached,  a broad,  shallow  stream, 
too  wide  and  too  shifting  to  be  successfully  bridged, 
so  the  traveller  will  have  to  continue  to  ford  it,  and 
take  the  chances  of  sudden  floods  and  the  dangers 
attending  them.  When  a storm  occurs  in  the  moun- 
tains, a vast  volume  of  water  rushes  down  to  the 
coast,  and  what  is  usually  a shallow  stream  becomes 
a raging  torrent.  Frequently  people  are  drowned 
in  crossing,  and  are  caught  for  several  days  between 
the  Hope  and  Yallahs  Rivers,  not  being  able  to 
either  go  on  or  return,  and  that  in  a region  where 
lodging-houses  are  unknown. 

Easington,  the  ancient  capital  of  the  parish  of 
St.  David’s,  before  the  parish  was  merged  into  St. 
Thomas,  lies  inland  on  the  Yallahs  River.  It  has 
a fine  suspension  bridge,  and  is  reached  by  a very 
fair  road.  The  court  meets  here  twice  during  the 
month.  Easington  is  one  of  the  five  principal 
towns  of  St.  Thomas. 

A notable  spot  on  the  bank  of  the  Yallahs  River 
is  known  as  the  “Judgment  Cliff.”  This  cliff  is 
the  half  of  a mountain  which  was  rent  asunder  in 
the  great  earthquake  in  1692,  that  destroyed  Port 
Royal.  A contemporary  writer  says,  regarding  this 
spot,  “A  half  of  a mountain  fell,  and  overwhelmed 
a plantation  at  its  foot,  at  that  time  possessed  by  an 


96 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


atrociously  wicked  Dutchman,  who  overtopped  the 
licentious  wickedness  of  the  times  by  procreating 
with  his  own  children.”  The  cliff  rises  bleak  and 
bare  fully  one  thousand  feet.  This  spot  is  situated 
about  two  miles  from  Easington,  along  the  Yallahs 
River. 

Beyond  the  river  is  the  picturesque,  straggling 
little  town  of  Yallahs;  and  then  the  salt  pond  is 
passed.  The  country  then  is  full  of  streams,  which 
one  must  ford,  the  water  often  coming  up  to  the 
wagon  hubs.  Finally  Morant  Bay  is  reached,  a 
small  place  where  there  is  little  accommodation  for 
the  traveller,  but  much  to  interest  one,  both  in  the 
natural  scenery  and  sea  views,  and  in  the  large 
shipments  of  fruit  made  from  here.  Besides  this, 
there  is  much  that  is  interesting;  to  the  student  of 
history  at  Morant  Bay. 

MORANT  BAY. 

It  was  here  that  the  first  scene  in  the  rebellion  of 
1865  was  enacted,  as  described  in  another  chapter 
of  this  book.  The  vestry  of  St.  Thomas  ye  East 
met  at  the  court-house  at  Morant  Bay  for  the  trans- 
action of  parochial  business.  At  three  o’clock  on 
the  eleventh  day  of  October,  several  hundred  peo- 
ple, crying,  “ Color  for  color,”  closed  in  about  the 
building,  and  began  to  stone  the  volunteers  who 
were  drawn  up  to  guard  the  members  of  the  vestry. 
The  Riot  Act  was  read,  and  the  volunteers  fired, 
but  they  were  soon  overpowered.  A hand-to-hand 
struggle  ensued,  during  which  Captain  Hitchins, 


INTERIOR  OF  A SUGAR  FACTORY. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


97 


faint  from  the  loss  of  blood,  rested  on  the  knee  of 
a volunteer  the  rifle  he  had  taken  from  a murdered 
comrade,  and  fired  his  two  remaining  rounds  of 
ammunition.  He  was  then  surrounded,  and  hacked 
to  death  by  the  negroes  with  their  machetes.  All 
the  officers  and  many  of  the  members  of  the  volun- 
teer corps  nobly  died  at  their  post,  gallantly  doing 
their  duty.  All  the  custodes  of  the  parish,  the 
curate  of  Bath,  the  inspector  of  police,  and  a num- 
ber of  magistrates  and  other  personages,  were  also 
murdered. 

There  is  a riding-road  along  the  Morant  River 
to  a place  in  the  interior  called  Island  Head,  in  the 
coffee  region.  From  Island  Head  a bridle-path 
will  take  one  by  the  course  of  an  old  road  built  by 
Governor  Trelawney  in  the  last  century,  but  now 
gone  to  ruin,  over  the  mountains  into  the  old  Maroon 
settlement  of  Nanny  Town,  named  after  the  wife 
of  their  famous  chief,  Cudjoe.  More  will  be  said 
about  this  place  in  the  chapter  concerning  the 
Maroons. 

On  the  way  to  Port  Morant  a charming  view  can 
be  had  from  a turn  in  the  road  above  “White 
Horses,”  a cliff  which  makes  a prominent  coast- 
mark  to  mariners,  and  where  a grand  ocean  view, 
with  foreground  of  picturesque  rock  and  enchant- 
ing verdure,  entices  travellers  to  linger  there. 

The  nearest  approach  to  the  shipping-place  of 
Bowden  is  first  through  the  village  of  Port  Morant, 
a little  cluster  of  houses  and  cabins,  around  a cross- 
road where  some  great  trees  throw  their  shade, 
beyond  whose  trunks  are  vistas  of  white  road, 


9§ 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


thatched  roofs,  palm  tops,  and  stream.  After  pass- 
ing through  the  mangroves,  it  takes  a sharp  turn, 
then  follows  the  curve  of  the  hill,  passes  a little 
settlement,  and  ends  at  the  storehouse  and  wharf 
of  the  Boston  Fruit  Company. 

From  here  or  from  the  hilltop  the  view  is  won- 
derfully fine,  and  the  air  all  that  could  be  desired. 
Bowden  is  one  of  a number  of  estates  owned  by  the 
Boston  Fruit  Company,  which,  no  longer  valuable 
for  sugar  and  rum  producing,  are  now  used  for 
raising  bananas  and  cocoanuts.  Captain  Baker, 
the  originator  of  the  Company,  lives  on  the  Bowden 
estate  ; and  visitors  are  always  welcomed  by  the 
genial  captain,  who  is  a genuine  specimen  of  a 
Yankee,  and  a Cape  Codder  at  that. 

Great  quantities  of  bananas  are  shipped  from 
this  port.  Many  people  will  be  met  bringing  down 
bunches  of  bananas  on  their  heads  from  their  little 
patch  of  ground  on  the  mountain  side.  They  are 
put  into  the  storehouse  on  the  wharf  in  open  slat 
crates  or  bins,  and  then  transferred  to  the  steamers. 
It  is  interesting  to  see  the  great  steamers  of  the 
Atlas  and  Boston  Companies  come  into  this  quiet 
enclosed  harbor,  and  transform  its  repose  into  ac- 
tivity. 

BATH. 

The  road,  after  leaving  Port  Morant,  branches 
off  in  two  directions.  The  one  to  the  eastward 
leads  to  Holland  Bay,  passing  by  Golden  Grove, 
another  of  the  Boston  Company’s  banana  planta- 
tions. In  its  golden  days  it  was  a magnificent 


Banana  Women 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


99 


estate,  and  fortunes  have  been  made  from  it.  The 
other  road,  which  is  by  far  the  most  interesting, 
leads  to  the  Bath  of  St.  Thomas  the  Apostle,  situ- 
ated near  the  picturesque  little  village  of  Bath, 
where  the  first  botanic  garden  in  Jamaica  was 
established,  in  1774.  Bath  was  formerly  the  chief 
of  Jamaica  spas,  once  fashionable,  but  now  only 
occasionally  visited.  The  road  to  Bath  is  solidly 
built,  without  a break  or  any  unevenness,  with 
stone  culverts,  bridges,  rock  terracing,  and  hill 
work  all  the  way;  it  is  as  perfect  as  possible.  The 
negroes  who  work  upon  the  road  are  small  con- 
tractors. The  work  is  done  for  so  much  per  yard, 
and  the  workers  earn  from  one  to  two  shillings  per 
day.  On  leaving  Port  Morant  the  road  makes  a 
sharp  turn  to  the  north.  The  country  is  richer 
and  more  tropical  as  we  leave  the  coast,  and  the 
impression  of  lavish  expenditures  of  energy  on  the 
part  of  nature  is  heightened  at  every  step.  As  we 
advance,  we  lose,  however,  the  bits  of  marine 
views  that  added  so  much  to  the  beauty  of  the 
Windward  road.  These  views  are  replaced  by  no 
less  enchanting  glens  and  ravines,  into  which  the 
rich  deep  pervading  fulness  of  sylvan  life  floods 
like  a tide,  overshadowing  the  road,  and  rolling  in 
billows  of  verdure  up  the  hillsides. 

The  baths,  which  are  a mile  and  a half  from  the 
town,  which  owes  its  existence  to  their  proximity, 
are  at  the  end  of  a winding  road  bordered  with 
vines  and  moss  and  fern-covered  rocks,  flowering 
shrubs,  trees  heavy  with  fruit,  and  an  atmosphere 
charged  with  moisture  and  very  fragrant,  like  that 
of  some  vast  greenhouse. 


IOO 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


At  the  bath  is  a building  in  charge  of  an  attend- 
ant, who  introduces  visitors  to  the  stone  basins 
built  to  receive  the  hot  and  cold  waters  that  flow 
from  the  hillside  within  a few  feet  of  each  other. 
The  bath  is  a sulphurated  sodio-calcic  thermal 
spring,  having  a temperature  of  130°  F.  It  has 
been  chiefly  valued  for  its  unquestionable  influence 
on  rheumatic  and  cutaneous  disorders. 

From  Bath  a bridle  road  leads  up  to  the  weird 
and  wonderful  “ Cuna  cuna  ” Pass  in  the  Blue 
Mountains,  a ride  of  rare  beauty  and  interest,  and 
from  thence  descends  through  the  region  of  the  Rio 
Grande  to  Port  Antonio,  past  the  Maroon  settle- 
ment at  Moore  Town  ; or  by  following  a road  that 
skirts  the  Plantain  Garden  River,  reaches  Island 
Plead,  and  from  there  by  way  already  described  to 
Nanny  Town.  All  this  ridge  and  the  country 
north  and  east  of  it  are  of  great  interest  to  one  who 
enjoys  a little  hardship  with  his  travel,  for  it  is  an 
unsettled  and  untravelled  country 

MANCHIONEAL. 

From  Bath  to  Manchioneal  the  way  is  more  level, 
passing  through  bottomlands  and  meadows  that  are 
like  those  of  Old  England. 

Bath  and  Manchioneal  were  both  scenes  of  the 
great  atrocities  of  the  insurrection  of  Governor 
Eyre’s  time.  On  the  beach  in  front  of  the  little 
dingy  lodging-house  at  Manchioneal,  there  are  a 
large  number  of  negroes  interred  that  were  exe- 
cuted at  that  time.  To  the  right  are  the  clean, 


SHIPPING  BANANAS,  PORT  ANTONIO. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


101 


bright-looking  buildings  of  the  constabulary  station 
and  the  church.  To  the  left  a high  bluff  hides  the 
road  that  leads  to  Port  Antonio,  which  winds  with 
the  turnings  of  the  coast-line,  and  constantly  affords 
surprises  and  scenes  of  rich  beauty.  Deep  bays 
and  inlets,  beaches  where  the  water  breaks  in  a 
long  surf,  headlands  crowned  with  foliage,  — all 
afford  satisfaction  to  the  eye.  Here  is  Innes’  Bay, 
a deep  indentation  in  the  coast;  there  Fairy  Hill 
Bay,  with  its  extensive  outlook  each  way  over  the 
ocean ; then  Priestman's  River  is  crossed,  deep  at 
the  mouth  as  it  debouches  into  its  little  harbor;  and 
the  exquisite  “ Blue  Water,”  whose  turquoise  shades 
into  amethyst  in  the  shadows  over  which  the  bend- 
ing trunks  and  swaying  tops  of  a hundred  cocoanut- 
trees  cast  their  reflections.  All  through  this  region 
are  scattered  scenes  of  rare  beauty.  At  intervals 
pens  are  passed  where  cattle  are  grazed,  and  what 
were  formerly  sugar  estates  are  now  converted  into 
pasturage  for  horses  and  cattle. 

But  in  spite  of  its  beauty,  its  natural  fertility,  its 
advantageous  situation,  its  grazing  pens,  and  vil- 
lages, Eastern  Portland  gives  the  impression  of  des- 
olation. Mile  after  mile  of  unused,  unredeemed 
acres,  once  flourishing  with  cane,  but  now  given 
over  to  wild  growths,  sadden  even  the  most  opti- 
mistic observer.  In  legal  parlance,  this  whole 
section  is  in  ruinate. 

As  Port  Antonio  is  approached,  a great  change 
comes  over  the  scene.  Everywhere  one  sees 
increasing  evidence  of  prosperity ; a new  life 
appears  to  animate  the  scene ; decay  is  arrested ; 


102 


6-  TA  RI<  'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


the  waste  acres  are  taken  up,  and  planted  with 
fruit.  We  are  coming  now  to  the  headquarters 
of  the  Boston  Fruit  Company,  and  the  termination 
of  the  Port  Antonio  branch  of  the  railway.  The 
banana  has  taken  the  place  of  the  sugar-cane ; the 
old  order  of  things  has  changed  for  the  new. 

Port  Antonio  has  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the 
coast.  It  is  so  land-locked  that  navigators  strange 
to  die  locality  sometimes  find  it  difficult  to  distin- 
guish the  entrance  to  the  harbor.  The  fort  and 
barracks,  now  used  for  a school,  are  conspicuous 
objects  from  the  offing.  Vessels  approaching  from 
the  eastward  sometimes  mistake  the  remains  of 
some  old  sugar-works  at  Anchovy  for  them  ; but, 
by  running  along  the  land,  the  place,  when  once 
opened,  cannot  be  mistaken.  A lighthouse,  which 
was  erected  on  Folly  Point  in  1888,  has  been  a 
great  aid  to  navigation. 

Port  Antonio  and  its  vicinity  will  be  more  fully 
described  in  another  chapter  in  this  work,  giving 
a description  of  the  approach  to  it  by  railway. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


103 


CHAPTER  XII. 

SPANISH  TOWN. 

The  two  most  ancient  and  historical  places  in 
the  vicinity  of  Kingston  are  Spanish  Town  and 
Port  Royal.  Spanish  Town  is  distant  from  Kings- 
ton about  thirteen  miles,  and  is  connected  by  rail- 
way. The  town  was  founded  by  the  Spaniards  about 
1523,  and  was  called  by  them  St.  Jago  de  la  Vega, 
which  was  anglicized  into  Spanish  Town.  As  was 
usual,  in  Spanish  Town  a square,  or  plaza,  was  laid 
out,  around  which  the  public  offices  were  grouped. 
On  the  west  side  of  the  square  stands  the  old  official 
residence  of  the  governors  of  Jamaica,  now  un- 
occupied, but  kept  in  repair.  On  the  east  is  the 
Record  Office,  in  which  are  deposited  copies  of  all 
official  records  and  land  titles.  In  this  building  the 
old  House  of  Assembly  used  to  hold  its  sessions. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  square  stands  the  elegant 
and  artistic  “Temple,”  erected  in  honor  of  Rod- 
ney’s great  victory  off  Dominica,  April  12,  1782, 
where  he  defeated  the  French  fleet  under  Count 
de  Grasse.  The  French  admiral,  fresh  from  his 
victory  at  Yorktown,  refitted  at  Martinique,  then 
intended  to  join  the  Spaniards,  capture  Jamaica, 
and  drive  the  English  out  of  the  West  Indies.  All 
the  Antilles  except  St.  Lucia  were  already  his ; 


104 


S TANK 'S  ILL  [IS TLA  TED 


there  alone  the  English  flag  still  flew,  as  Rodney 
lay  in  the  harbor  of  Castries,  watching  for  the  de- 
parture of  the  French  fleet.  At  last  the  welcome 
sign  was  given;  the  French  fleet  had  sailed,  and 
was  becalmed  under  the  high  lands  of  Dominica. 
In  number  of  ships  the  fleets  were  equal ; in  size  and 
complement  of  arms,  the  French  were  immensely 
superior.  Moreover,  they  had  twenty  thousand  sol- 
diers on  board,  to  be  used  in  the  conquest  of  Jamaica. 
Defeat  at  this  moment  would  have  been  England’s 
irreparable  ruin ; and  the  English  admiral  was 
aware  that  his  country’s  fate  was  in  his  hands.  It 
was  one  of  those  supreme  moments  which  great 
men  dare  to  use,  and  weak  men  tremble  at. 

Rodney  led  in  person  on  his  flag-ship,  the  For- 
midable. He  immediately  engaged  the  Glorieux, 
a seventy-four,  at  close  range.  He  shot  away  her 
masts  and  bowsprit,  and  left  her  a bare  hull.  He 
then  went  about,  and  came  yard-arm  to  yard-arm 
with  the  superb  Yille  de  Paris,  the  pride  of  France, 
and  the  largest  ship  in  the  world,  on  which  De 
Grasse  commanded  in  person.  All  day  long  the 
cannon  roared;  and  one  by  one  the  French  ships 
struck  their  flags,  or  fought  on  till  they  sank.  The 
carnage  on  board  them  was  terrible,  crowded  as 
they  were  with  troops  for  Jamaica.  Fourteen  thou- 
sand were  reckoned  as  killed,  besides  prisoners. 
The  Ville  de  Paris  surrendered  last,  fighting  des- 
perately after  all  hope  was  gone.  De  Grasse  gave 
up  his  sword  to  Rodney  on  the  Formidable’s  quar- 
ter-deck, and  Yorktown  was  avenged.  So  on  that 
memorable  day  Jamaica  and  the  English  empire 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


105 


were  saved.  Peace  followed,  but  it  was  with  honor. 
The  American  colonies  were  lost,  but  England  kept 
Gibraltar  and  her  East  and  West  Indian  colonies. 
The  hostile  strength  of  Europe  and  her  revolted 
colonies  had  failed  to  wrest  Britannia’s  ocean  scep- 
tre from  her.  She  sat  down  maimed  and  bleeding, 
but  the  wreath  had  not  been  torn  from  her  brow ; 
she  was,  and  still  is,  sovereign  of  the  seas.  Is  it 
any  wonder  that  Jamaica  honors  Rodney,  and  con- 
siders him  her  saviour?  The  Temple  contains  a 
splendid  marble  statue  of  the  admiral  by  Bacon  ; it  is 
generally  conceded  to  be  a masterpiece  of  the  sculp- 
tor’s art.  The  statue  is  flanked  by  two  magnificent 
brass  eighteen-pounders  captured  on  the  Ville  de 
Paris.  There  are  also  two  bomb  mortars  of  bronze 
which  were  taken  from  the  same  vessel.  For  a 
century  Rodney’s  statue  has  kept  watch  and  ward 
over  the  affairs  of  Spanish  Town,  till  it  grew  to 
have  a more  than  educational  significance.  Peo- 
ple spoke  of  it  as  a person,  and  regarded  it  as  a 
tutelary  deity.  More  than  all,  they  had  an  affec- 
tion for  it.  Judge,  then,  what  the  feelings  of  the 
people  must  have  been  when  Rodney  was  removed 
to  Kingston,  and  set  up  in  the  market-place  there, 
with  his  face  to  the  sea.  There  was  mourning ; 
houses  were  hung  with  black  ; a mock  funeral  was 
held,  and  a coffin  containing  the  effigy  of  the  lost 
admiral  was  placed  in  the  empty  Temple.  The 
authorities  feared  a riot.  They  had  taken  away 
the  government,  they  had  destroyed  the  prestige  of 
the  place,  they  had  robbed  it  of  its  business,  and 
now  they  added  insult  to  injury  by  carrying  off 


io6 


STARK  'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


Rodney.  There  Spanish  Town  drew  the  line.  It 
refused  to  be  parted  from  its  idol ; and  the  admiral 
once  more  stands  on  his  pedestal  in  the  Temple,  his 
captured  cannon  at  his  feet,  and  the  plaza  of  Spanish 
Town  under  his  eagle  eye. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  square  is  a fine  old 
building,  which  contains  the  court-room,  town  hall, 
savings-bank,  and  parochial  board  offices. 

The  garden  in  the  centre  of  the  square  is  beauti- 
fully laid  out  with  a profusion  of  tropical  flowers 
and  shrubs,  which  are  watered  by  the  fountain 
within  the  enclosure. 

THE  CATHEDRAL. 

The  Cathedral  is  a building  rich  in  historic  asso- 
ciations. It  is  supposed  to  stand  on  the  foundations 
of  the  Spanish  Church  of  the  Red  Cross,  which, 
together  with  an  abbey  and  another  church  called 
the  White  Cross,  was  destroyed  by  the  English  Puri- 
tan soldiers  when  the  town  was  captured  by  Vena- 
bles in  May,  1655.  The  present  building  takes  the 
place  of  the  earlier  one,  built  in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Anne,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  hurricane  of 
1712.  The  church  is  built  of  brick,  in  the  form 
of  a Latin  cross,  and  has  a tower  at  the  west  end. 
Some  of  the  monuments,  tablets,  and  slabs  are 
older  than  the  church,  and  are  extremely  interest- 
ing. There  is  one  to  the  memory  of  three  of  a 
family  named  Assam,  who  had  for  their  crest  three 
asses  engraven  on  the  stone.  Another  makes  it 
appear  that  an  eminent  man,  Colbeck  of  St.  Doro- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


10/ 


thy,  died  “ amid  great  applause.”  The  most  inter- 
esting one  to  Americans  is  in  the  churchyard.  It 
is  a large  white  marble  slab,  and  contains  the  fol- 
lowing inscription  : — 

IN  MEMORY  OF 

GEORGE  WASHINGTON  REED 
Master  Commander  in  the  Navy  of  the 
United  States. 

Born  at  Philadelphia,  May  26th,  1780. 

Captured  in  the  U.  S.  Brig  of  War  Vixen,  under  his  command, 
by  H.  B.  M.  Frigate  Southampton. 

He  died  a prisoner  of  war  at  this  place, 

JANUARY  4TH,  1813. 

Unwilling  to  forsake  his  companions  in  captivity,  he 
declined  a proffered  parole,  and  sunk 
under  a tropical  fever. 

THIS  STONE 

Is  inscribed  by  the  hand  of  affection  as  a memorial  of  his 
virtues,  and  records  the  gratitude  of  his  friends 
for  the  kind  offices  which  in  the  season  of 
sickness  and  hour  of  death  he 
received  at  the  hands  of 
a generous  foe. 

The  interior  of  the  church  presents  a graceful 
aspect.  It  has  a beautiful  east  window,  and  several 
admirably  executed  pieces  of  sculpture  by  Bacon ; 
the  most  striking  of  these  being  those  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Effingham,  Sir 
Basil  Keith,  Major-General  Selwyn  and  the  Count- 
ess of  Elgin,  and  Lady  Williamson. 

Spanish  Town  possesses  a good  almshouse,  hos- 
pital, market,  record  office,  and  constabulary  depot. 
Its  streets  are  well  paved  and  clean,  its  houses 


io8 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


attractive,  though  not  different  from  those  of  most 
other  West  Indian  towns  ; its  population  is  about  six 
thousand.  It  is  situated  six  miles  from  the  sea,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Rio  Cobre,  a beautiful  stream  of 
considerable  volume.  Four  miles  from  town  the 
river  is  dammed  for  the  purpose  of  irrigating  the 
plains  of  St.  Catherine  ; here  the  water  glides  over 
a slope,  making  a most  beautiful  waterfall.  The 
water  of  the  canal  finds  its  way  by  pleasant  banks, 
under  picturesque  bridges,  and  beneath  long,  even 
rows  of  bending  cocoannt-trees,  to  smaller  channels, 
until  at  last  its  ramifications  reach  through  grazing- 
pens,  fruit-cultivating  and  sugar-estates,  fertilizing 
and  enriching  all  that  section  of  country. 

A little  way  beyond  the  dam  will  be  seen  traces 
of  an  ancient  avenue  of  tall  trees,  at  the  end  of 
which  is  a ruin  overgrowm  with  trees  and  under- 
brush. This  ruin  is  said  to  be  that  of  the  residence 
of  the  last  Spanish  governor  of  the  island,  who  fled 
from  here  when  the  island  was  taken  by  Admirals 
Penn  and  Venables  in  Cromwell’s  time.  Few  places 
in  Jamaica  are  more  beautiful,  and  few  will  better 
repay  a visit,  than  Bog  Walk,  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque spots  on  the  island.  The  Bog  Walk  is  a 
gorge  through  which  the  Rio  Cobre  flows  towards 
the  sea.  In  the  drive  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio 
Cobre,  through  the  Bog  Walk,  there  is  seen  every- 
thing that  makes  scenery  lovety, — wood,  water, 
rocks,  and  the  wildest  luxuriance  of  tropical  foli- 
age, mingled  and  arranged  by  the  artistic  hands 
of  Nature  in  one  of  her  happiest  moods.  All  this 
is  surrounded  by  lofty  and  abrupt  precipices,  with 


JAMAICA  GUIDE.  109 

a background  of  the  most  brilliant  hue,  illuminated 
by  the  brightest  of  suns,  tempered  usually  by  a 
gentle  breeze,  which  ripples  the  surface  of  the 
water.  As  you  pass  out  of  the  Bog  Walk,  the 
sides  of  the  ravine  become  less  precipitous,  and 
are  clothed  with  all  kinds  of  tropical  trees,  such  as 
bread-fruit,  bamboos,  and  vast  quantities  of  flower- 
ing orchids. 

Among  other  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  of 
Spanish  Town  are  Port  Henderson,  with  its  mineral 
springs  and  bath  ; and  on  the  hill  is  Rodney’s  look- 
out, from  which  the  admiral  ‘‘watched  the  adjacent 
sea;”  the  Vale  Guanaboa,  Old  Harbor,  the  Great 
Salt  Pond,  Apostles’  Battery,  Fort  Augusta,  Green 
Bay,  and  Passage  Fort,  where  the  English  con- 
querors first  landed. 

Near  Spanish  Town  are  situated  some  of  the 
most  scientifically  worked  sugar-plantations  on  the 
island,  such  as  Ewing’s,  Caymanas,  and  Busby 
Park.  Near  the  railway  station  are  the  West  Indian 
Chemical  Works,  where  dyes  are  extracted  from 
logwood,  fustic,  and  other  woods.  This  manufac- 
tory and  the  Rio  Cobre  Hotel  were  both  established 
through  the  instrumentality  of  Mr.  T.  L.  Harvey, 
solicitor,  one  of  the  most  public-spirited  men  on  the 
island  and  a great  believer  in  the  future  of  Jamaica. 
Mr.  Harvey  recognized  the  fact  that  good  hotel 
accommodations  are  among  the  first  requisites  to 
make  the  island,  with  its  many  natural  attractions 
and  equable  climate,  a popular  winter  resort ; and 
the  well-kept,  comfortable  Rio  Cobre  Hotel  is  al- 
ways appreciated  by  tourists.  The  house  will  ac- 


I IO 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRATED 


commodate  about  fifty  guests,  and  aims  to  give  West 
Indian  comfort  and  care  with  American  manage- 
ment. As  this  hotel  was  built  under  the  Jamaica 
Hotel  Law  of  1890,  the  tariff  will  be  found  on 
page  57  of  this  work. 

Amongst  other  specialties,  mention  must  be  made 
of  the  excellence  of  the  cuisine  at  this  hotel,  and 
its  character,  and  also  the  good  attendance.  In 
the  season,  the  visitor  may  enjoy  in  perfection  the 
calipever  (the  Jamaica  salmon),  brought  from  the 
Great  Salt  Pond,  and  the  celebrated  “Salt  Pond 
Mutton  ” of  the  district,  dressed  in  native  fashion. 
The  food  put  before  the  guests  consists  princi- 
pally of  Jamaica  dishes,  which  of  course  can  only 
be  prepared  by  native  cooks.  It  is  strange  how 
little  Jamaica  preserves  are  thought  of  by  persons 
catering  for  visitors.  Ginger,  pineapples,  oranges, 
limes,  guavas,  cashews,  mangoes,  and  other  tropi- 
cal conserves  are  sought  after  by  strangers.  The 
manager  of  the  Hotel  Rio  Cobre,  understanding 
that  visitors  to  the  island  wish  to  taste  its  good 
things,  successfully  makes  it  an  object  to  gratify 
them. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 1 1 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

MANBEVILLE  AND  MONTPELIER. 

After  leaving  Kingston,  the  railroad  crosses 
the  mangrove  swamps  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio 
Cobre,  the  trees  growing  in  the  water.  Rising 
slowly,  it  passes  through  level  grazing-ground 
studded  with  mangoes  and  cedars.  Spanish  Town 
is  passed,  of  which  only  the  roofs  of  the  old  govern- 
ment buildings  are  visible  from  the  train.  Sugar- 
estates  follow,  some  of  which  are  still  in  cultivation, 
while  ruined  mills  and  fallen  aqueducts  show  where 
others  once  had  been.-  After  passing  May  Pen, 
with  its  line  iron  bridge,  and  view  of  the  dry  bed 
of  a river  that  has  found  a subterranean  channel, 
the  grade  then  rises  to  higher  levels,  the  scenery 
becomes  more  broken,  the  forest  stretches  as  far 
as  eye  can  reach.  The  glens  grow  narrower  and 
the  trees  grander  as  the  train  proceeds.  After  two 
hours’  ride  the  town  of  Porus  is  reached,  named 
after  one  of  the  companions  of  Columbus,  an  inter- 
esting relic  of  the  first  Spanish  occupation.  A short 
distance  beyond  the  small  railway  station  of  Wil- 
liamsfield  is  reached,  the  nearest  town  on  the  rail- 
way to  Mandeville,  although  some  persons  prefer 
the  longer  drive  from  Porus. 

Buggies  can  be  procured  at  either  of  these 


I 12 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


places.  The  drive  to  Mandeville  is  through  a 
lovely  hill  country,  and  rich  undulating  plateau, 
long  cleared  and  cultivated,  green  fields  with  cows 
feeding  on  them,  with  pretty  houses  standing  in 
gardens.  The  red  soil,  derived  from  the  coral  rock, 
denotes  the  best  of  land  for  cultivation.  Great  silk- 
cotton  trees  tower  up  in  lonely  magnificence,  the 
home  of  the  dreaded  Jumbi,  so  feared  by  the  ne- 
groes. Almonds,  cedars,  mangoes,  and  gum-trees 
spread  their  shade  over  the  road.  Orange-trees 
are  seen  everywhere,  sometimes  in  orchards,  some- 
times growing  at  their  own  wild  will  in  hedges 
and  copse  and  thicket.  As  the  town  is  approached, 
the  houses  become  more  numerous,  the  outskirts 
having  every  appearance  of  an  English  village. 
The  similarity  is  even  greater  when  the  centre  of 
the  town  is  reached,  which  is  built  around  a square 
containing  several  acres  of  grassy  common  in 
which  the  silk-cotton  and  the  mango  grow  instead 
of  the  elm.  In  the  centre  of  the  square  stands 
the  court-house  ; and  facing  it,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  green,  is  the  parish  church,  with  its  low  square 
tower,  in  which  hangs  an  old  peal  of  bells.  On  the 
left  is  the  Brooks  Hotel,  recently  enlarged  and  im- 
proved. Also  several  shops  and  a blacksmith  forge 
and  shed  ; this  latter,  with  the  market-place,  makes 
the  resemblance  to  an  English  village  complete. 
Mandeville,  on  its  table-land,  is  at  an  elevation  of 
2,500  feel  above  sea  level,  and  the  mountain  air 
is  consequently  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  of  a cool 
and  bracing  character ; and  is  as  charming  a place 
to  the  eye  as  it  is  beneficial  to  the  senses.  It  is  an 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


”3 

extremely  pretty  and  picturesque  little  town,  and 
its  appearance  is  considerably  enhanced  by  the 
general  aspect  of  neatness  and  prosperity  which 
pervades  the  place. 

Mandeville  is  the  centre  of  a district  famous  for 
its  cattle  as  well  as  for  its  fruit,  and  has  excellent 
grazing-grounds.  The  pride  of  Mandeville  is  in 
its  oranges;  they  are  the  best  grown  in  Jamaica. 
Fortunes  larger  than  were  ever  made  by  sugar 
wait  for  any  man  who  will  set  himself  to  work 
growing  oranges,  and  packing  them  with  skill  and 
science,  in  a place  where  heat  will  not  wither 
them,  nor  frosts,  as  in  Florida,  kill  the  trees  in  a 
night.  New  York  has  already  found  out  their 
merits,  and  thousands  of  boxes  are  shipped  there 
from  Mandeville  annually.  Besides  oranges,  Man- 
deville excels  in  the  raising  of  coffee.  Undoubt- 
edly coffee-growing  is  one  of  the  safest  and  best 
industries  to  engage  in,  not  only  because  coffee  is 
non-perishable  and  therefore  easily  transported,  but 
because  there  is  every  indication  that  the  high 
prices  which  now  rule  will  continue  for  many  years. 
Moreover,  on  the  high  lands,  which  are  best  suited 
to  coffee,  the  climate  is  cool  and  pleasant.  As  to 
the  profits,  the  cost  of  producing  a pound  of  coffee 
is  from  five  to  seven  cents,  while  it  readily  sells  at 
from  sixteen  to  twenty-five  cents. 

Mr.  Wynne,  an  English  gentleman  who  came  to 
Mandeville  a few  years  ago,  has  one  of  the  largest 
coffee-plantations  in  Jamaica.  As  the  method  of 
growing  coffee  and  preparing  it  for  market  is 
probably  unfamiliar  to  most  persons,  a visit  to 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


1 14 

this  plantation  will  prove  both  interesting  and 
instructive. 

In  starting  a plantation,  the  young  trees  are  usu- 
ally set  eight  feet  apart  both  ways,  though  some 
planters  prefer  to  plant  wider.  Two  years  after- 
ward there  will  be  a sprinkling  of  coffee,  and  at 
the  end  of  the  third  year  a small  crop,  usually 
enough  to  pay  running  expenses.  The  fourth  year 
brings  a full  crop  ; and  the  trees  continue  thereafter 
to  bear  for  thirty  or  forty  years,  according  to  the 
soil  in  which  they  are  planted.  The  coffee-berry, 
when  ripe,  is  of  a bright  purplish-red  color,  and  is 
in  appearance  much  like  a cherry.  The  coffee- 
kernels,  like  the  cherry-stones,  are  incased  in  the 
flesh  of  the  fruit.  Quite  a process  is  necessary  to 
prepare  the  coffee  for  the  market ; but  with  the  im- 
proved machinery  now  in  use,  it  is  not  expensive. 

First,  the  berries  are  run  through  a “ pulper,”  a 
machine  which  tears  off  most  of  the  pulp  from  the 
kernel.  They  are  then  run  into  tanks  filled  with 
water,  where  they  are  frequently  agitated  to  wash 
off  what  pulp  may  remain  on  them.  Then  they  are 
removed  from  the  tanks,  and  spread  out  in  the  sun 
on  great  platforms  made  of  cement,  and  left  there 
until  thoroughly  dry.  The  platforms  are  called 
“ patios,”  or  “ barbecues,” — the  former  word  being 
Spanish  for  courtyard,  and  the  latter  a term  applied 
by  the  aborigines  to  the  smooth  places  on  which  they 
dried  their  fish  and  fruits. 

At  one  side  of  each  patio  is  a tight  shed,  and  into 
this  the  coffee  is  swept  in  case  of  rain. 

The  coffee,  being  thoroughly  dry,  is  removed 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 1 5 

from  the  patios.  Up  to  this  point  the  two  kernels 
which  form  the  “ stone,”  so  to  speak,  of  the  berry, 
and  which  lie  with  their  flat  surfaces  face  to  face, 
are  surrounded  by  the  horny  covering.  To  remove 
this  the  coffee  is  run  through  a mill  properly  con- 
structed for  the  purpose.  It  is  then  ready  for  mar- 
ket ; though  it  is  better  to  sort  it  before  shipping, 
as  a better  price  can  thus  be  realized.  This  sorting, 
which  grades  the  kernels  according  to  size,  is  done 
by  a very  simple  machine,  quite  similar  to  that  in 
use  by  the  wholesale  dealers  in  our  own  country. 

Mandeville  is  a favorite  resort  for  visitors  and 
invalids,  on  account  of  the  salubrity  of  its  climate, 
the  town  being  situated  in  the  Manchester  hills, 
on  a plateau  elevated  high  above  the  sea  level. 
Some  Jamaicans  think  it  too  cool ; the  visitor  from 
the  north  is  not  apt  to  find  it  so.  There  are  sev- 
eral boarding-houses  here,  but  only  one  hotel.  This 
excellent  house,  formerly  known  as  the  Waverley, 
now  called  the  Brooks  Hotel,  is  under  the  lessee- 
ship,  of  Mr.  A.  A.  Lindo,  with  Miss  Jane  Brooks  as 
manager.  It  has  seventeen  rooms,  and  these  are 
seldom  empty.  It  is  a well-conducted  house,  and 
has  oftentimes  very  distinguished  patronage.  The 
rates  are  approximately  the  same  as  those  estab- 
lished by  the  government  for  the  hotels  built  under 
the  hotels  law,  and  are  given  on  page  57. 

Continuing  the  journey  on  the  railway,  through 
the  beautiful  mountain  estates  of  Manchester,  which 
look  like  English  parks  with  their  closely  cropped 
grass  and  their  picturesquely  planted  trees,  Kendal 
is  soon  reached  after  leaving  Williamsfield  ; as  it  i ; 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


1 16 

approached,  orange-groves  will  be  seen  on  both 
sides  of  the  line. 

Green  Vale  is  the  next  station,  and  is  the  highest 
elevation  on  the  line,  1,700  feet  above  sea  level; 
and  the  delightful  breezes  are  most  invigorating 
after  the  more  excessive  heat  of  the  plains.  Green 
Vale  has  become  the  centre  of  the  fustic  trade,  and 
the  large  yellow  trunks  lying  around  the  station 
yard  are  fair  specimens  of  one  of  the  most  valua- 
ble woods  of  the  island. 

From  Green  Vale  the  line  runs  over  the  main 
ridge  of  the  Jamaica  mountains,  through  a rolling 
country  occupied  by  grazing-pens.  The  wooded 
hills  supply  valuable  dyewoods  and  hard-wood  tim- 
ber. The  railway  now  descends  on  steep  grades 
towards  the  Oxford  valley,  which  can  be  seen  after 
the  first  tunnel  is  passed,  and  one  mile  back  from 
Balaclava  water  is  taken  from  a small  stream  called 
the  Oxford  River : from  there  on  the  train  runs 
towards  Balaclava,  skirting  the  hills,  and  affording 
a beautiful  view  of  the  valley.  Balaclava  is  a small 
market-town,  and  the  centre  of  a considerable  gin- 
ger and  coffee  trade ; the  negroes  for  miles  around 
come  here  Saturday  mornings  in  order  to  sell  their 
produce,  and  lay  in  their  stock  of  salt  fish  and  pro- 
visions for  the  coming  week. 

From  Balaclava,  which  is  800  feet  above  sea  level, 
the  line,  still  skirting  the  hills,  descends  to  Union 
Plain,  which  is  a large  swampy  valley,  quite  level 
and  about  three  miles  long.  At  the  farther  end  is 
situated  the  famous  Appleton  sugar-estate.  This 
estate,  while  very  small  in  extent  of  sugar  cultiva- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


ii  7 


tion,  produces  what  is  considered  the  best  quality  of 
rum  in  the  island.  From  Appleton  the  line  skirts 
the  Black  River  ; beautiful  glades  and  tropical  ver- 
dure delight  the  eye,  then  three  bridges  span  this 
river.  The  Black  River  is  the  longest  navigable 
river  in  Jamaica.  Large  quantities  of  logwood  and 
other  dye-woods  are  brought  down  the  river  in 
lighters  ; these  boats,  owing  to  their  light  draught, 
are  able  to  navigate  the  river  for  thirty  miles  into 
the  interior  of  the  island.  From  Appleton  to  Bread- 
nut  Valley  the  river  has  a number  of  cascades  and 
picturesque  falls.  The  cascades  on  the  river  that 
rises  at  Ipswich  are  among  the  most  beautiful  on 
the  island.  The  Black  River  abounds  with  alliga- 
tors, and  excellent  shooting  can  at  times  be  had 
among  them. 

After  crossing  the  third  bridge  that  spans  the  river, 
the  engine  once  more  starts  under  a full  head  of 
steam  to  ascend  the  mountains.  The  panting  of  the 
iron  horse  shows  that  it  is  beginning  to  ascend  ; and 
soon  the  wildest  region  of  Jamaica  is  reached,  the 
Cockpit  Country,  the  home  of  the  Maroons.  The 
country  here  consists  of  isolated  peaks  with  deep, 
hollow  valleys,  at  the  bottom  of  which  often  may  be 
seen  a small  cultivation  of  bananas.  This  section 
of  country  comprises  an  area  of  some  ten  by  twenty 
miles  in  extent,  and  is  one  vast  labyrinth  of  glades 
among  rough  cliffs,  with  here  and  there  patches  of 
smoother  ground,  and  at  other  places,  coming  one 
after  the  other,  a general  collection  of  impassable 
sink-holes  called  cockpits.  There  are  paths  through 
these  rocks  where  one  can  walk  for  miles,  meeting 


i is 


STA RK  \S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


always  the  same  things,  — cliffs,  sink-holes,  rocks, 
more  cliffs  and  sink-holes,  and  so  on.  It  is  difficult 
to  tell  one  point  from  another  ; and  should  the  path 
be  lost,  the  traveller  could  wander  on  for  days  and 
days,  as  some  have  done,  without  finding  any  means 
of  egress. 

A large  part  of  the  Cockpit  Country  has  never 
been  explored,  nor  is  it  probable  that  it  ever  will  be, 
because  the  land  is  useless ; and  one  can  cross  the 
district  from  north  to  south  and  from  east  to  west, 
and  go  all  around  it  sufficiently  to  show  that  there 
is  nothing  to  compensate  for  the  effort,  and  that  one 
part  is  quite  similar  to  all  the  others. 

In  all  this  district  there  is  very  little  water,  the 
rain  being  carried  off  almost  immediately  by  multi- 
tudes of  crevices  and  along  ways  through  the  rocks 
leading  no  one  knows  where.  At  long  distances 
apart  there  are  springs,  or  rather  places  where  un- 
derground water  courses  have  come  to  the  surface, 
and  almost  immediately  pass  out  of  sight  again. 

The  whole  district  is  one  of  the  waste  places  of 
the  earth,  of  little  if  any  use,  but  interesting  in  its 
formation,  which  seems  to  be  a decomposed  lime- 
stone, broken  and  easily  disintegrated,  intersected 
and  surrounded  by  ridges  and  hills  also  of  lime- 
stone, but  of  a different  texture  and  more  enduring. 

The  bases  of  these  hills  are  probably  coral  reefs, 
and  the  rough  country  lying  between  them  forma- 
tions from  their  sediment,  deposited  by  the  action 
of  the  sea  ; and  after  the  upheaval  of  Jamaica  these 
basins  of  limestone  gradually  found  drainage  under 
the  surrounding  mountains,  and  this  through  sue- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


II9 

cessive  centuries  of  disintegration  has  brought  these 
districts  to  their  present  rough,  almost  impassable 
structure.  After  passing  through  the  Cockpit  Coun- 
try the  railroad  follows  the  valley  of  the  Great 
River,  on  the  west  of  which,  in  the  parish  of  West- 
moreland, is  a section  of  country  known  as  “ Suri- 
nam quarters.”  Here,  in  1672,  over  one  thousand 
Dutchmen  settled,  who  came  from  Surinam  in 
South  America,  but  who,  unlike  their  countrymen 
who  settled  in  South  Africa,  have  mixed  with  the 
negroes  during  the  past  two  hundred  years.  They 
were  of  an  industrious  habit,  and  added  greatly  to 
the  colony’s  prosperity.  All  of  this  section  of  coun- 
try is  inhabited  by  their  descendants. 

Montpelier  station  is  on  one  of  the  two  great 
estates  owned  by  the  Hon.  Evelyn  Ellis,  a wealthy 
English  gentleman  who  has  built  the  Montpelier 
Hotel  for  the  entertainment  of  his  English  guests 
and  travellers  generally.  The  house,  which  has 
only  sixteen  rooms,  is  lavishly  furnished,  and  well 
conducted  under  the  management  of  Mrs.  Jane 
Stone.  The  business  interests  of  this  hotel,  as  well 
as  the  Rio  Cobre  at  Spanish  Town,  are  attended  to 
by  Mr.  T.  L.  Harvey,  solicitor.  The  rates  are 
about  the  same  as  charged  by  the  hotels  built  under 
the  Hotels  Law,  as  printed  on  page  57. 

At  Shettlewood  and  Montpelier  may  be  seen  the 
silver-gray  hides  and  quaint  shapes  of  Zebu  and 
Mysore  cattle,  imported  from  India  at  a great  cost 
by  Mr.  Ellis.  The  offspring  of  these  cattle,  when 
crossed  with  the  native  animal,  make  about  the 
most  useful  stock  for  draft  purposes  that  can  be 


120 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRATED 


desired.  The  acreage  of  these  estates  runs  up  into 
thousands,  over  which  roam  enormous  herds  of 
Indian  cattle.  Every  visitor  to  this  part  of  Jamaica 
should  stop  at  Montpelier  if  only  to  see  the  cattle, 
the  beautiful  view  from  the  top  of  the  hill  on  which 
the  hotel  is  situated,  and  also  to  be  entertained 
in  the  most  richly  furnished  hotel  in  Jamaica. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 2 1 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

MONTEGO  BAY. 

Montego  Bay  is  ten  miles  distant  from  Mont- 
pelier. Jnst  before  coming  to  Montego  Bay  the 
view  from  the  cars  is  the  finest  on  the  whole  route. 
The  panoramic  view  of  the  bay,  town,  and  plain 
covered  with  great  fields  of  sugar-cane,  is  magnifi- 
cent. The  name  of  the  town  is  derived  from  the 
Spanish  manteca,  meaning  hog  lard,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  the  principal  trade  of  the  town  during 
the  Spanish  occupancy  was  lard,  in  which  an  ex- 
tensive business  was  carried  on  between  Jamaica 
and  Havana.  Sir  Hans  Sloane  states  that  the 
boiling  of  swine’s  flesh  into  lard,  which  was  sold 
in  great  quantities,  constituted  the  early  distinctive 
commerce  of  Manteca.  Montego  Bay  is  a com- 
mercial centre,  and  a place  of  increasing  impor- 
tance. A general  shipping  business,  principally 
with  the  United  States,  has  been  largely  augmented 
by  the  increasing  fruit-trade  ; and  it  is  said  that 
many  properties  in  the  neighborhood  which  had 
been  considered  nearly  valueless  have  become 
profitable  as  fruit-lands.  Besides  this,  the  people 
are  more  generally  employed,  and  are  more  con- 
tented. 

The  chief  buildings  in  the  town  are  the  court- 


122 


STARK  'S  ILL  US TR A TED 


house,  the  Episcopal  church  and  Trinity  chapel, 
and  the  chapels  belonging  to  the  Baptist,  Wesleyan, 
and  the  United  Presbyterian  denominations,  the 
custom-house  and  old  barracks.  The  church  is  the 
most  interesting  building,  on  account  of  the  num- 
ber of  fine  monumental  marbles  and  tablets,  which 
testify  to  the  wealth  of  the  planters  that  resided  here 
in  slavery  days.  The  most  noted  memorial  among 
these  is  one  to  a lady  named  Mrs.  Palmer,  whom 
tradition  makes  out  to  have  been  a Jamaican  Lu- 
cretia  Borgia,  who  poisoned  or  otherwise  removed 
a number  of  husbands,  and  was  herself  put  to  death 
by  her  last  marital  companion.  The  marble  of 
the  tablet,  which  was  executed  by  the  elder  Bacon, 
shows  some  curious  markings  which  it  is  alleged 
were  not  apparent  when  erected.  Round  the  neck 
appears  the  mark  of  strangling,  while  the  nostrils 
seem  to  exude  blood.  But  time  changes  all  things. 
One  day  some  one  discovered  records  which  clearly 
proved  that  not  this  woman,  but  another  of  the  same 
name,  had  committed  the  deed  for  which  for  years 
this  marble  has  blushed  ; and  that  this  memorial 
was  erected  to  a truly  good  and  beautiful  woman, 
good  according  to  the  inscription  on  the  marble, 
and  beautiful  by  tradition.  Yet  this  gentle  saint 
was  pointed  out  to  all  comers  for  many  years  as 
an  utterly  depraved  character,  a murderess,  whose 
hands  had  been  dyed  with  the  blood  of  her  own 
husbands. 

About  ten  miles  from  Montego  Ba}s  on  the  main 
road  leading  to  Kingston,  stands  what  was  once  one 
of  the  most  costly  and  magnificent  residences  in 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


123 


Jamaica.  This  building  was  the  residence  of  Mrs. 
Palmer,  and  is  known  as  Rose  Hail.  It  was  erected 
in  1760,  at  a cost  of  £30,000  sterling,  and  was  most 
beautifully  and  richly  furnished.  Ruin  has  put  her 
iron  hand  upon  the  place,  and  the  robber  and  plun- 
derer are  fast  completing  what  war  and  rebellion 
first  began.  A few  years  more  and  only  a few 
scanty  remains  will  be  left  to  point  out  to  the  way- 
farer and  visitor  the  site  where  once  stood  one  of  the 
most  costly  buildings  in  the  island.  Every  visitor 
to  Montego  Bay  should  visit  this  famous  mansion. 
The  following  description  of  the  same,  from  the 
Journal  of  the  Institute  of  Jamaica,  as  illustrative 
of  one  of  the  mansions  erected  in  Jamaica  during 
slavery  times,  will  probably  interest  the  reader  : — 

“ A gap  through  the  boundary  walls  leads  to  avenues 
of  trees  selected  for  their  beauty  and  fragrance  from 
the  endless  variety  which  luxuriates  in  a southern  clime. 
There  may  still  be  seen  the  cocoa  with  its  fringy  leaves, 
always  graceful  and  always  beautiful  ; the  giant  cotton, 
the  king  of  the  forest,  from  whose  huge  limbs  countless 
streamers  of  parasitical  plants  hang  pendent  exposed  to 
the  breeze ; the  palm,  with  its  slender  speckle  of  most 
delicate  green  ; the  spreading  mahogany,  with  its  small 
leaves  of  the  deepest  die  ; and  there  may  be  found  the 
ever-bearing  orange,  with  its  golden  fruit  and  flowers  of 
rich  perfume.  Neglect,  too,  has  been  here;  and  the  avenue 
once  so  trim  and  neat  is  now  overgrown  with  weeds  and 
bushes,  so  much  so  that  the  remainder  of  the  ancient 
road  can  scarce  now  be  seen.  Passing  about  a half  mile 
through  the  grove,  you  come  suddenly  in  front  of  a stately 
large  stone  mansion,  prettily  situated  on  the  top  of  a 
gentle  slope.  The  first  thing  that  strikes  you  is  its  size 


124 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


and  magnitude  ; the  next,  the  imposing  appearance  of  the 
flight  of  steps  leading  to  the  main  entrance  of  the  man- 
sion. These  are  fourteen  feet  high,  built  of  large  square 
stones  (hewn),  and  so  arranged  that  the  landing-place 
serves  as  a portico,  twenty  feet  square.  A few  brass 
stanchions,  curiously  wrought  and  twisted,  serve  to  show 
what  the  railing  had  been  ; but  the  few  remaining  are 
tarnished  with  verdigris,  and  broken,  bruised,  and  turned 
in  every  direction.  Magnificent  massive  folding-doors  of 
solid  mahogany  four  inches  thick,  with  panels  formed  by 
the  carver’s  chisel  in  many  a scroll  and  many  a device, 
are  upheld  by  brazen  hinges  which,  fashioned  like  sea- 
monsters,  seem  to  bite  the  posts  on  which  they  hang. 
These  doors  are  in  front  of  the  main  hall,  — a room  of  lofty 
dimensions  and  magnificent  proportions,  a hall  forty  feet 
long,  thirty  feet  wide,  and  eighteen  feet  high,  formed  of 
the  same  costly  materials  as  the  doors,  carved  in  the  same 
manner  out  of  solid  planks,  and  fashioned  in  curious  and 
antique  forms,  while  the  top  is  ornamented  with  a very 
deep  cornice  formed  after  the  arabesque  pattern.  The 
floor  is  of  the  same  expression,  and  highly  polished  wood. 
Three  portraits  in  richly  carved  frames  and  painted  by  a 
master  hand  immediately  attract  attention;  indeed,  they 
are  almost  the  sole  occupants  of  this  lofty  room,  for  of 
furniture  there  is  scarcely  a vestige,  and  the  fine  dark 
colored  woods  of  the  floor,  base,  and  doors,  once  so  highly 
polished,  are  now  damp  and  mouldy.  The  gilding  which 
formerly  adorned  the  frames  is  now  tarnished  and  dull ; 
but  the  pictures  themselves  are  fresh  and  fair,  and  the 
colors  are  as  bright  and  vivid  as  the  day  they  came  from 
the  painter’s  easel.  They  form  a strange  contrast  to  the 
neglect  and  decay  of  all  around,  and  carry  the  mind  back 
to  the  time  when  their  originals  lived  in  the  old  mansion  ; 
when  that  noble  hall  was  filled  with  guests  ; when  the  song 
and  dance  went  gayly  on  ; when,  instead  of  damp,  mould, 
and  decay,  all  was  bright  and  gorgeous,  and  India’s  riches 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 -5 


glittered  in  profusion  round  the  now  bare  and  moulder- 
ing walls.  One  of  these  portraits  represents  a hard  and 
stern-featured  man,  clothed  in  the  scarlet  and  ermined 
robes  of  a judge.  Another  is  of  a mild,  benevolent-looking, 
gentlemanly  person,  dressed  in  the  fashion  of  the  olden 
times,  with  powdered  hair,  lace  cravat,  ruffles  and  shirt 
bosom,  silk  stockings  and  buckles,  small  clothes,  brocaded 
vest,  and  velvet  coat.  The  third  is  a female  of  about  live 
or  six  and  twenty;  and,  if  the  painter  has  not  flattered 
her,  she  must  have  been  of  exquisite  beauty.  Like  the 
raven’s  wing  is  her  hair,  the  latter  falling  in  thick  cluster- 
ing ringlets,  unconfined  by  comb,  down  over  her  alabaster 
neck  and  shoulders  of  purest  white  ; her  brow  high  and 
commanding ; her  eyes  are  dark  and  expressive  ; a smile 
plays  sweetly  round  her  rosy  lips  ; and  the  expression  of 
her  countenance  is  pleasant,  but  at  the  same  time  her  eye 
and  brow  show  great  determination  of  character.  She  is 
dressed  in  bridal  robes ; a wreath  of  orange-flowers  round 
that  fair  high  brow  contrasts  well  with  her  dark  locks  ; 
while  her  hand,  that  small  fairylike  hand,  is  in  the  act  of 
putting  aside  the  large  bridal  veil  thrown  loosely  over  her 
person.  The  frame  of  another  picture  is  there,  but  the 
picture  itself  is  gone.  On  the  right  side  of  this  hall  are 
two  doors  leading  into  bedrooms.  In  the  farther  one  is 
an  old-fashioned  bedstead  made  of  ebony,  with  tall  posts 
and  very  low  feet.  The  wood  is  quite  black  and  old,  but 
very  elaborately  carved.  This  is  the  only  object  of  in- 
terest. The  rest  of  the  furniture  is  simple  and  modern. 
Examining  closely  the  floor  of  the  dressing-room,  we  find 
the  remains  of  a door  which  led  to  a subterranean  passage  ; 
but  the  passage  has  long  since  been  filled  up,  and  the 
door  is  firmly  closed.  Directly  opposite  to  the  main  door 
are  two  others  fashioned  in  the  same  costly  and  expensive 
manner,  which  lead  into  another  hall  of  rather  smaller 
dimensions  than  the  banqueting  hall,  one  end  of  which  is 
entirely  occupied  by  a magnificent  staircase,  which  still 


1 26 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


remains,  and,  though  neglected  and  mouldy,  seems  to 
show  what  the  rest  of  the  mansion  must  have  been.  Every- 
thing about  it,  rails,  balustrades,  and  mouldings,  is  carved 
out  of  sandalwood.  So  highly  polished  and  exquisitely 
designed  is  this  piece  of  architecture,  that  a late  governor- 
general  offered  a large  sum  (^500)  for  the  staircase  as  it 
stood,  to  be  taken  down  and  sent  to  England.  This  stair- 
case leads  to  the  upper  rooms,  eight  in  number  ; but  these, 
though  well  proportioned,  seem  small  in  comparison  with 
the  rooms  below.  From  each  end  of  the  portico,  which 
extends  the  whole  length  of  the  back  part  of  the  house, 
ran  in  semicircular  shape  two  suites  of  rooms,  each  three 
in  number.  Those  on  the  right  side  have  all  decayed 
and  tumbled  to  ruin,  and  you  can  only  trace  their  founda- 
tions ; those  on  the  left  are  still  entire,  though  supported 
by  many  a prop,  while  the  yawning  walls  and  gaping 
floors  show  the  time  of  their  fall  is  not  far  distant.  The 
first  of  these  rooms  was  a billiard-room,  the  second  was 
devoted  to  music,  and  the  third,  and  farther  from  the 
house,  was  a bedroom.  These  rooms  were  fitted  up  in 
the  European  style,  with  hangings,  and  plastered ; and 
consequently  exhibit  in  a greater  degree,  by  the  broken 
plaster  and  fluttering  paper,  the  desolation  and  ruin  of  the 
whole  place,  than  the  other  apartments,  that  are  all  ceiled 
with  wood.  The  bedchamber  still  has  some  of  its  furni- 
ture remaining,  — a handsome  bedstead,  old-fashioned, 
low,  quaintly  carved,  with  ebony  inlaid  with  other  woods, 
still  remains  tottering  in  one  corner;  this,  with  a few 
broken  chairs,  serve  to  show  that  time,  not  the  robber, 
has  been  the  spoiler  here.” 

By  the  records,  in  1767,  Miss  Rosa  Witter  was 
married  to  the  Hon.  John  Palmer,  who  named  this 
mansion  after  his  wife.  This  is  the  Mrs.  Palmer 
to  whom  Bacon's  monument  is  erected.  The  fol- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


12  7 


lowing  account  of  the  second  Mrs.  Palmer,  whose 
character  and  conduct  are  the  subject  of  this  sketch, 
has  been  collected  from  the  most  authentic  sources, 
and  is  probably  as  near  a correct  statement  of  the 
facts  of  the  case,  which  occurred  over  one  hundred 
years  ago,  as  it  is  now  possible  to  obtain. 

Mr.  Palmer,  after  the  death  of  his  wife,  became 
infatuated  with  a handsome  Irish  immigrant  girl, 
who  had  successively  become  the  wife  of  three 
husbands  whom  she  had  secretly  got  rid  of.  It  is 
stated  she  poisoned  her  first  husband,  aided  by  her 
paramour,  a negro,  whom  she  flogged  to  death  to 
close  his  lips ; again  married,  poisoned  her  second 
husband,  whose  death  she  hastened  by  stabbing  him 
with  a knife ; married  her  second  paramour,  a me- 
chanic, “ a rude  and  unlettered  man,  with  whom 
she  had  constant  quarrels,”  and  who  disappeared 
mysteriously.  Mr.  Palmer  became  her  fourth  hus- 
band ; and  she  is  said  to  have  worn,  with  her  wed- 
ding-ring, a ring  with  the  inscription,  “ If  I survive, 
I will  have  five.”  The  history  of  this  woman  is  a 
narration  of  licentious  cruelty;  it  is  related  that 
she  tortured  her  slave  girls  who  served  her  by  mak- 
ing them  wear  shoes,  the  wooden  soles  of  which 
were  charged  with  blunted  pegs  on  which  they  were 
obliged  to  stand ; that  she  punished  them  with  a 
perforated  platter  that  drew  blood ; that,  becoming- 
jealous  of  a beautiful  colored  girl,  the  mistress  of 
John  Rosa  Palmer,  her  step-son,  she  had  the  slave 
girl  sentenced  to  death  under  the  law  of  those  times 
that  gave  plantation  courts  the  power  of  inflicting 
death  and  bodily  mutilation.  This  girl,  like  Abra- 


128 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


ham’s  Hagar,  displeased  her  mistress,  but  was  not 
thrust  into  a desert  to  perish.  From  the  planta- 
tion dungeon  she  was  led  out  to  be  strangled  in 
the  plantation  yard,  and  to  have  her  head  struck  off 
in  the  presence  of  the  plantation  gangs,  and  deliv- 
ered into  the  hands  of  Mrs.  Palmer  for  preservation 
as  a malignant  trophy.  She  put  it  in  spirits,  and 
exhibited  it  to  her  friends  who  might  visit  her,  say- 
ing, “Look  at  the  pretty  creature.”  Mr.  Palmer 
found  by  the  humiliations  he  suffered  by  her  secret 
licentiousness  and  by  her  ceaseless  cruelties  to  her 
slaves,  that  she  could  kill  by  breaking  hearts  as 
well  as  by  the  administration  of  poison.  He  settled 
Palmyra,  the  adjoining  estate,  upon  her,  and  left  her 
there  to  end  her  dissolute  life,  which  soon  came  to 
an  end  by  her  being  killed  by  her  slaves,  who  were 
alternately  the  companions  of  her  orgies  and  the 
victims  of  her  morning  remorse.  On  the  floor  of 
Palmyra  Hall  the  stains  of  her  blood  existed  for 
years.  Mr.  Palmer  on  his  death-bed  disclosed  to 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Record  his  complicity  in  his  wife's 
murder,  — that  during  his  absence  from  the  estate, 
he  caused  his  slaves  to  rid  him  of  the  woman  whose 
life  of  secret  profligacy  and  open  cruelty  were  an 
unendurable  infliction. 

There  are  many  pleasant  drives  and  interesting 
places  to  visit  in  and  around  Montego  Bay.  Lucea 
is  reached  by  the  shore  road ; it  is  a beautifully  sit- 
uated town  of  nearly  two  thousand  inhabitants.  Its 
harbor  is  deep,  almost  a circular  basin,  much  nar- 
rower at  the  entrance  than  inside.  The  business 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


129 


buildings  are  near  the  shore,  while  above  them  on 
the  hills  are  pleasant  residences  and  picturesque 
grounds.  Here  also  is  a tine  old  church,  and  old 
Fort  Charlotte,  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  now 
converted  into  a police-station.  There  are  several 
lodging-houses  in  Lucea  where  travellers  can  he 
accommodated.  The  mountains  around  Montego 
Bay  were  the  scene  of  a long  and  bloody  struggle 
with  the  Maroons,  who  were  eventually  subdued 
by  the  importation  of  bloodhounds  from  Cuba  to 
hunt  them  down.  Ruins  of  line  old  barracks  in  a 
delightfully  healthy  situation  are  still  to  be  seen  at 
Maroon  Town,  about  fourteen  miles  from  Montego 
Bay.  The  empty  window  frames  and  crumbling 
walls  surround  the  level,  green  parade-ground  that 
once  resounded  with  the  clatter  of  hoofs,  the  clash 
of  accoutrements,  and  the  hoarse  word  of  com- 
mand, all  calling  up  the  ghastly  tragedies  which 
were  once  enacted  within  the  detiles  of  these  hills, 
now  so  silent  and  peaceful. 

There  are  several  good  lodging  and  boarding 
houses  at  Montego  Bay.  The  two  best  are  the 
Harrison  Hotel  on  Union  Street,  and  Miss  Emily 
Payne’s.  The  fare  here  is  good,  and  the  houses 
quiet  and  homelike.  Miss  Emily  Payne’s  is  one 
of  the  best  lodging-houses  on  the  island,  and  is  the 
oldest  in  Montego  Bay ; the  house  is  pleasantly 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  Both  of  these 
houses  are  frequented  by  the  best  people  that  visit 
this  part  of  the  island.  The  rates  are  65.  to  8s.  per 
day,  and  £1  105.  to  £2  per  week. 

Dr.  McCatty’s  sanatorium  for  invalids  is  one  of 


130 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


the  pleasantest  and  best  in  Jamaica.  It  is  situated 
on  high  land  on  the  shore,  and  its  windows  over- 
look the  harbor ; and  from  its  vantage  above  heat 
or  the  night  dampness  of  the  lower  lands,  and  its 
excellent  bathing  facilities,  together  with  the  attend- 
ance of  Dr.  McCatty,  one  of  the  most  noted  phy- 
sicians on  the  island,  it  is  truly  an  ideal  place  for 
invalids.  Patients  suffering  from  Bright’s  disease, 
dyspepsia,  and  nervous  prostration  will  especially 
receive  great  benefit  here. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


131 


CHAPTER  XV. 

MONEAGUE,  OCHO  RIOS,  ROARING  RIVER,  AND 

st.  Ann’s  bay. 

St.  Ann  is  the  most  lovely  and  fertile  parish  on  the 
island.  It  is  known  as  the  “ garden  of  Jamaica.” 
A recent  writer  describing  it  says,  “ Earth  has 
nothing  more  lovely  than  the  pastures  and  pimento 
groves  of  St.  Ann  ; nothing  more  enchanting  than 
its  hills  and  vales,  delicious  in  verdure  and  redolent 
with  the  fragrance  of  spices ; embellished  with 
wood  and  water  from  the  deep  forests  from  whence 
the  streams  descend  to  the  ocean  in  falls ; the  blue 
haze  of  the  air  blends  and  harmonizes  all  into 
beauty.”  St.  Ann  is  all  it  is  here  described,  and 
much  more  than  it  is  possible  for  the  writer  to 
delineate.  The  best  way  to  reach  St.  Ann  from 
Kingston  is  to  take  the  train  for  Ewarton.  At  Bog 
Walk  the  train  leaves  the  main  line,  and  proceeds 
in  a northerly  direction;  before  reaching  Ewarton 
another  branch  proceeds  in  a northeasterly  direc- 
tion to  Port  Antonio.  Ewarton  is  the  terminus  of 
the  Ewarton  branch.  From  here  the  traveller  will 
go  by  buggy  to  Moneague,  over  Mount  Diabolo,  a 
distance  of  nine  miles.  The  drive  is  a delightful 
one  for  the  entire  distance.  The  mountain  road  is 
splendid,  all  that  could  be  desired ; parapet  walls 


132 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


protect  it  at  the  most  dangerous  parts,  and  it  is  hard 
and  smooth  all  the  way.  Nearing  Charlemont  a 
magnificent  prospect  opens  to  the  eye  ; on  the  right- 
hand  side  of  the  road  is  stretched  out,  hundreds  of 
feet  below,  the  valley  of  St.  Thomas  ye  Vale,  dotted 
here  and  there  with  the  residences  of  the  rich  plan- 
ters and  penkeepers  of  the  district.  All  along  the 
road,  which  for  a considerable  part  of  the  way 
winds  around  the  steep  side  of  the  hill,  orchids, 
ferns,  and  wild  flowers  of  every  variety,  may  be 
seen  growing  in  the  richest  profusion.  Nearing 
Moneague  the  country  has  a park-like  appearance  ; 
the  town  itself  is  a pretty  hamlet  surrounded  by 
some  of  the  richest  pasture-land  on  the  island. 
There  are  very  few  places  in  Jamaica  where  the 
climate  and  scenery  are  superior  to  Moneague.  A 
few  gentlemen  of  the  parish,  availing  themselves  of 
the  provisions  of  Law  27  of  1890,  formed  themselves 
into  a company,  and  purchased  in  that  year  the 
greater  part  of  a property  called  Rose  Hall,  lying 
just  beyond  the  village,  on  which  they  have  built  a 
fine  hotel.  The  building  stands  on  an  eminence 
commanding  charming  views  in  every  direction. 
This  is  the  only  hotel  of  those  built  under  the  Hotels 
Laws  of  1890  which  is  not  placed  in  the  lowlands, 
being  950  feet  above  the  sea.  For  rates,  see  page 
57  of  this  work. 

Visitors  should  make  this  hotel  their  headquarters 
while  visiting  St.  Ann.  The  chief  attraction  here, 
besides  its  cool  climate,  are  the  magnificent  drives, 
which  include  in  their  circuit  Fern  Gully,  Ocho 
Rios,  Roaring  River  Falls,  St.  Ann’s  Bay,  and 


Moneague  Hotel. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


133 


Claremont.  No  visitor  should  forego  a trip  through 
the  Fern  Gully.  It  is  distant  from  Moneague  about 
nine  miles,  and  is  four  miles  in  length.  The  scen- 
ery through  this  ravine  is  unique,  and  can  be  sur- 
passed by  but  few  other  places  in  the  world.  It  is 
from  forty  to  fifty  feet  in  width,  just  wide  enough 
for  a good  road ; the  sides  rise  perpendicular  to  a 
height  of  hundreds  of  feet ; only  the  noonday  sun 
penetrates  to  the  road.  The  steep  rocks  on  each 
side  are  literally  covered  with  the  loveliest  of  ferns, 
which  grow  in  the  richest  profusion.  Tree-ferns 
of  magnificent  proportion,  as  well  as  the  tiniest  and 
most  delicate  specimens,  are  seen.  The  forest  trees, 
too,  are  laden  with  orchids  and  with  long  creepers, 
which  descend  from  the  branches  thirty  feet  or  more 
to  the  surface  below.  Less  than  a mile  beyond  this 
romantic  spot  is  the  pretty  little  village  of  Ocho  Rios, 
or  eight  rivers ; Chereras,  the  Spaniards  called  it, 
the  Bay  of  the  Waterfalls,  a name  certainly  as  de- 
scriptive as  it  is  poetic.  The  harbor  is  considered 
a good  one,  and  the  trade  of  the  place  as  a shipping- 
port  is  said  to  be  on  the  increase. 

The  coast  road  passes  through  the  village,  and 
here  fresh  scenes  arrest  the  attention  of  the  traveller. 
By  following  the  seacoast  for  a distance  of  four  miles 
the  famous  Roaring  River  cascades  are  reached. 
The  road  for  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  is 
nothing  more  than  a shelf  cut  out  of  the  rocky  sides 
of  the  hills,  shaded  by  magnificent  trees  on  one  side, 
and  many  feet  below  is  seen  the  transparent  water 
of  the  ocean.  Several  of  the  eight  rivers  are  passed 
as  they  rush  foaming  down  to  the  sea  ; the  principal 


134 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


one,  Roaring  River,  is  crossed  near  its  mouth,  where 
a grove  of  cabbage  palms,  banyans,  and  other  trees 
grow  beside  or  in  the  dozen  or  more  little  rills  which 
are  united  both  above  and  below  the  bridge.  The 
falls  are  approached  through  a heavy  wood,  and  are 
framed  like  a picture  by  the  green  branches.  The 
stream  is  here  nearly  a hundred  feet  wide,  and  it 
falls  in  exquisite  shapes  down  the  rocky  wall,  which 
rises  nearly  as  high.  Here  are  seen  as  many  forms 
of  cascades  as  a fantastic  waterway  is  capable  of 
assuming  in  such  a tumultuous  tumble. 

This  river  rises,  or  rather  appears,  about  two 
miles  from  the  sea.  The  flow  of  water  at  the  head 
shows  clearly  that  it  is  not  a spring,  but  a large 
stream,  already  formed  and  flowing  in  an  unob- 
structed channel  beneath  the  surface ; and  it  is  a 
singular  fact  that  the  volume  of  water  is  seldom 
affected  by  either  floods  or  drought.  It  is  never  dry, 
indicating  a drainage  of  a large  area  of  limestone, 
probably  the  Cockpit  Country  and  Dry  Harbor  Dis- 
trict ; for  all  the  water  in  that  section  passes  into 
sink-holes,  and  from  thence  into  some  subterranean 
river.  The  water  is  full  of  lime  and  silica  in  solu- 
tion ; and  these  it  deposits  in  walls  or  layers,  which 
invariably  check  and  deflect  its  own  flow,  turning  it 
to  the  right  or  left,  where  it  industriously  begins  to 
build  fresh  dams,  and  seek  new  channels.  This 
building  up  of  lime  deposits  is  what  forms  the 
waterfalls.  Sticks  or  other  matter  left  in  the  water 
are  soon  coated  many  inches  in  thickness  with 
limestone. 

The  roaring  of  the  river  can  be  heard  for  a long 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


135 


distance  before  it  is  reached.  The  great  fall  is  over 
a mile  from  the  main  road,  and  is  reached  by  a new 
road  recently  cut  through  the  woods.  A small  fee 
is  charged  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  road  in 
repair,  as  it  passes  through  private  grounds.  The 
falls  are  probably  150  feet  in  height  and  175  in 
breadth,  and  are  the  largest  in  the  island.  There 
is  not  one  continuous  sheet  of  water,  but  a myriad 
of  small  cascades,  feathery  and  brilliant,  massed 
together,  clustered,  glancing  at  a hundred  different 
angles,  breaking  into  a thousand  foam-jets,  each 
curtained  with  an  iridescent  veil  of  falling  water, 
which  almost  seems  to  drip  from  the  branches  of 
the  trees  that  form  the  foreground,  growing  up  in 
midstream. 

The  habit  that  this  eccentric  stream  has  of  throw- 
ing out  terraces,  ridges,  and  dams,  instead  of  cut- 
ting away  the  soil  or  rock  as  other  streams  do,  is 
the  cause  of  the  bold  promontory  from  which  it 
falls.  It  has  been  built  inch  by  inch,  and  is  still 
building,  a living  monument  to  nature’s  originality. 

Roaring  River  has  created  for  itself  a veritable 
fairyland,  and  it  can  truly  be  said  it  is  one  of  the 
loveliest  objects  in  this  land  of  beautiful  things. 
Every  visitor  before  leaving  the  river  should  enjoy 
the  luxury  of  a bath  in  its  cool  waters. 

Th  ree  miles  beyond  Roaring  River  is  the  busy 
little  town  of  St.  Ann’s  Bay,  the  seat  of  government 
for  the  parish.  It  has  a population  of  about  2,000, 
with  a harbor  open  to  the  north,  and  a number  of 
wharves,  a street  parallel  to  the  harbor,  connected 
by  cross  streets  with  another  farther  away,  in  which 


136 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRATED 


lie  the  principal  dry-goods  and  hardware  stores. 
There  is  a neat  little  church,  and  the  public  offices 
are  striking  buildings.  Cocoanut  palms  and  trop- 
ical vegetation  are  seen  everywhere. 

About  a mile  to  the  west  of  St.  Ann’s  Bay  is  the 
site  of  the  Spanish  capital  of  the  island,  “ Sevilla 
d'  Oro  ” (Golden  Seville),  founded  by  Don  Juan 
d’  Esquivel,  the  first  Spanish  governor  of  Jamaica. 

It  seems  almost  incredible  that  in  the  early  days 
there  should  have  sprung  up  here,  in  what  was  an 
unknown  wilderness,  a city  of  which  we  read  that 
the  pavements  of  its  cathedral  extended  two  miles ; 
that  its  theatres  and  palaces  were  splendid,  and  its 
monastery  world-renowned,  within  whose  walls  the 
name  of  Peter  Martyr  was  potent. 

In  1554  the  city  was  attacked  and  completely 
sacked  by  French  pirates,  and  most  of  its  splendid 
edifices  razed  to  the  ground.  Little  or  no  trace 
now  remains  of  this  wealthy  city  save  a few  sculp- 
tured stones  and  ruined  walls. 

About  ten  miles  farther  along  the  coast  is  Run- 
away Bay,  where  Sasi,  the  last  of  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernors, after  a desperate  struggle  with  Cromwell’s 
troops,  managed  to  make  his  escape  to  Cuba. 

The  next  place  of  interest  is  Dry  Harbor,  the 
Puerto  Bueno  of  Columbus,  where  he  beached  his 
leakv  and  sea-worn  ships.  Near  here,  at  a place 
called  Cave  Hall  Pen,  is  a remarkable  cavern. 
This  cave  is  very  long,  and  contains  two  galleries, 
which  branch  into  grottos  and  side  aisles,  in  which 
there  are  stalagmites  and  stalactites  of  strange 
beauty. 


Port  Maria. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 37 


To  the  east  of  Ocho  Rios  is  Rio  Nuevo,.  It  was 
here  that  the  Spaniards  made  their  last  attempt  to 
regain  the  island  in  1657.  Don  Sasi  landed  with  a 
force  of  1,000  men  from  Spain,  and  fortified  himself 
on  a rocky  eminence  near  the  sea,  which  he  con- 
sidered an  impregnable  fortress.  Here  he  was 
attacked  in  the  following  year,  1658,  by  Colonel 
D'Oyley  with  500  selected  soldiers  ; and  after  a des- 
perate fight  the  Spaniards  were  defeated  with  terri- 
ble loss  of  life. 

Beyond  Rio  Nuevo  is  Oracabessa  Bay,  where 
Columbus  first  landed  on  the  5th  of  May,  1494. 
This  interesting  little  village  has  a good  reputation 
as  a health  resort.  Its  principal  productions  are 
nuts,  fruit,  and  ground  provisions.  The  most  star- 
tling effect  in  foliage  probably  that  ever  greeted  the 
eye  is  that  sea  of  cocoanut  tops  interspersed  with 
bananas  that  is  seen  on  approaching  this  village. 

Six  miles  farther  east  is  Port  Maria.  This  town 
has  a fairly  good  harbor,  and  was  formerly  guarded 
by  Fort  Haldane,  from  which  a magnificent  view 
of  the  surrounding  country  is  obtained.  The  fort 
is  now  the  home  of  Gray’s  Charity,  an  institution 
established  by  the  generosity  of  Mr.  John  W.  Gray, 
who  in  1854  left  by  will  £5’°°°’  which  sum  has 
now  increased  to  upwards  of  £11,000.  Each  in- 
mate receives  a weekly  allowance  of  five  shillings, 
together  with  wood,  water,  and  furnished  apart- 
ments. 

Sixteen  miles  to  the  eastward  is  Annotto  Bay, 
through  which  the  railroad  passes  on  the  way  to 
Port  Antonio. 


STARK  \S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


133 

Unfortunately  there  are  no  hotels  for  the  accom- 
modation of  visitors  at  any  of  the  places  mentioned 
in  this  excursion,  except  at  Moneague  ; therefore,  to 
see  all  the  places  described,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
make  two  trips.  One  can  be  made  to  Ocho  Rios 
and  the  places  to  the  eastward,  and  another  from 
Ocho  Rios  to  Dry  Harbor ; in  either  case  the  return 
trip  should  be  made  from  St.  Ann's  Bay,  over  Bolt 
Hill,  through  the  pimento  groves  and  the  village  of 
Claremont.  Some  of  the  finest  estates  and  pens  in 
St.  Ann  are  passed  in  going  over  this  road  to  Mo- 
neague. The  country  is  highly  cultivated,  and  has 
all  the  outward,  visible  signs  or  prosperity  in  its 
rolling  fields  and  tire  green  of  its  perfect  verdure. 
The  land  is  moderately  hilly,  and  is  abundantly 
watered  by  streams  of  exquisite  beauty. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


139 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

PORT  ANTONIO. 

Tiie  Port  Antonio  branch  of  the  Jamaica  railway 
is  the  latest  extension  of  the  line.  It  begins  at  a 
point  nine  miles  from  Bog  Walk,  and  runs  to  Port 
Antonio  via  Annotto  Bay,  a distance  of  forty-six 
miles.  The  line  passes  through  the  fruit  region  of 
Jamaica,  and  the  carrying  of  that  produce  will  con- 
stitute much  of  the  traffic  of  the  line. 

The  ride  to  Bog  Walk  from  Kingston  requires  no 
comment,  as  it  has  been  previously  described.  Be- 
tween Bog  Walk  and  Richmond  some  beautiful 
glimpses  are  caught  of  the  mountains,  with  their 
sides  clothed  with  vegetation,  and  the  fruitful  val- 
leys lying  at  their  feet ; but  one  of  the  chief  features 
of  this  part  of  the  line  is  the  number  of  tunnels.  In 
no  other  part  of  the  world,  except  in  crossing  the 
Apennines,  has  the  writer  seen  so  many  tunnels  in 
such  a short  distance.  No  sooner  are  you  out  of 
one  than  you  are  into  another ; there  are  upwards 
of  thirty  on  this  extension.  The  whole  line  is  full 
of  sharp  curves ; and  even  the  inside  of  the  tunnels 
is  quite  serpentine  in  their  windings,  and  the  travel- 
ler must  often  wonder  how  the  train  manages  to 
keep  the  rails.  As  the  engine  and  cars  rush  through, 
it  is  curious  to  note  the  number  of  moths  and  bats 


140 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


that  are  disturbed,  and  flutter  to  the  ground.  By 
the  time  the  train  arrives  at  Richmond  the  majority 
of  the  tunnels  have  been  passed. 

After  leaving  Richmond  the  village  of  Ilighgate, 
standing  out  prominently  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  is 
reached.  The  streams  are  now  seen  to  be  running 
in  a northerly  direction  ; and  the  line  passes  through 
several  fine  banana  groves,  while  here  and  there 
coffee-  and  cocoa-trees  are  seen.  All  along  the 
route,  however,  there  is  abundant  evidence  that 
much  of  the  land  is  still  uncleared,  and  waits  to  be 
opened.  No  doubt  the  advent  of  the  railway  will 
hasten  that  process.  Soon  Annotto  Bay  is  reached, 
and  the  view  from  the  cars  is  one  that  delights  the 
eye.  The  blue  ocean,  its  waters  rippled  by  a soft 
breeze,  sparkling  in  the  sunlight,  and  bearing  on  its 
bosom  several  small  craft  with  sails  spread,  and  the 
fine  sweep  of  coast-line  that  encircles  the  bay,  make 
up  a picture  that  serves  as  a sample  of  what  there 
is  to  come  before  reaching  Port  Antonio.  There 
are  portions  of  the  Montego  Bay  section  deservedly 
noted  for  their  interesting  character,  for  example, 
the  Cockpit  Country  and  the  scene  looking  down 
upon  the  town,  with  tne  numerous  small  islands 
dotting  the  bay ; but  for  a succession  of  sights  that 
charm  the  eye,  the  line  connecting  Annotto  Bay 
with  Port  Antonio  is  beyond  all  question  the  most 
continuous  stretch  of  beautiful  scenery  in  Jamaica. 

Leaving  Annotto  Bay,  the  line  runs  for  a distance 
parallel  with  the  sea-beach,  and  then  branches  off 
slightly,  passing  through  some  fine  banana  land. 
Scenes  of  surpassing  beauty  are  presented  by  a 


Cocoanut  Palms. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


141 

small  river-course,  over  which  the  train  passes,  its 
sides  bordered  with  thousands  of  wild  canes,  their 
handsome  arrow-heads  swaying  in  the  breeze,  and 
surmounting  the  grasses  and  vegetation  that  grow 
in  such  rich  profusion.  Away  to  the  south  stretches 
a range  of  mountains,  their  tops  tipped  with  fleecy 
clouds.  Next  comes  a tract  of  country  full  of 
swaying  rushes  that  have  the  appearance  of  a huge 
wheat-field  ripening  for  harvest.  On  their  farther 
edge  an  occasional  glimpse  of  die  bright  blue  sea 
is  had,  and  near  at  hand  are  some  fine  groves  of 
mango-trees.  At  another  time  the  train  passes 
through  a dense  thicket.  The  trees  grow  to  a great 
height ; but  from  their  topmost  branches  to  the  very 
ground  they  are  literally  covered  with  a mantle  of 
creepers  and  other  parasitic  plants,  which  gives  the 
visitor  an  excellent  idea  of  what  a tropical  primeval 
forest  is  like. 

Buff  Bay  is  the  first  station  after  leaving  Annotto 
Bay ; and  as  at  the  previous  town,  there  is  marked 
evidence  of  the  Boston  Fruit  Company  in  the  shape 
of  stores  and  wharves.  From  here  on  to  Port  An- 
tonio the  line  follows  closely  to  the  seashore ; at 
one  point,  however,  it  runs  through  a morass  for  a 
considerable  distance.  Great  difficulty  was  experi- 
enced here  in  building  the  line  on  account  of  its 
continually  sinking.  As  the  train  spins  on,  the 
ozone-kulen  breeze  sweeps  in  through  the  open 
windows,  giving  a delicious  feeling  of  exhilaration. 
At  times  the  train  is  but  a few  yards  from  the  sea- 
beach,  and  the  very  sight  of  the  waves  as  they  lap 
the  shore  serves  to  produce  a sense  of  cool  repose. 


142 


STARK 'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


The  water  is  beautifully  translucent ; and  the  stones 
and  coral,  worn  by  the  waves  into  smooth  circular 
shapes,  are  seen  lying  beneath  the  surface,  and 
suggest  the  idea  of  a huge  swimming-bath  with  a 
tessellated  pavement. 

Orange  Bay,  Hope  Bay,  and  St.  Margaret’s  Bay 
are  passed,  the  railway  running  through  groves  of 
cocoanuts  and  skirting  plantations  of  bananas,  and 
all  the  time  remaining  near  the  sea-coast.  The  es- 
tuaries of  several  rivers  are  crossed,  notably  that  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  which  is  spanned  by  a magnificent 
bridge.  The  view  as  one  crosses,  looking  down 
upon  its  deep,  dark  waters  as  they  meet  those  of  the 
ocean,  or  following  its  windings  southward  until 
lost  to  sight  among  the  mountains,  is  one  of  im- 
pressive  grandeur. 

St.  Margaret’s  Bay  is  charmingly  situated ; and 
the  view  from  the  cars  shortly  after  leaving  the 
station,  and  taking  in  the  sweep  of  the  coast-line,  is 
one  that  cannot  easily  be  equalled.  In  places  the 
track  is  cut  in  the  side  of  the  cliff;  and  the  train 
runs  for  some  distance  along  the  edge  of  a preci- 
pice, below  which  the  waves  are  seen  beating  them- 
selves into  foam.  During  heavy  weather  the  salt 
spray  must  be  blown  over  the  passing  train,  and 
passengers  with  weak  nerves  may  not  care  for  this 
part  of  the  journey.  Having  overcome  the  strange 
sensation  of  being  suspended  midway,  as  it  were, 
between  earth  and  sea,  one  is  filled  with  glowing 
admiration  at  the  rugged  rocks  and  coral  cliffs,  some 
worn  smooth  by  the  waves,  others  all  jagged  and 
torn,  but  their  harshness  toned  by  the  ferns  and 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


143 


plants  peeping  from  crevices,  and  clinging  tena- 
ciously to  the  side  of  the  precipice. 

Nor  is  the  element  of  human  interest  absent ; 
frequently  men  are  seen  in  canoes,  fishing,  while 
others  in  the  shallow  waters  near  the  shore  are 
throwing  cast-nets. 


WASHING  CLOTHES  IN  THE  RIVER. 


Negro  huts,  with  wattled  sides  and  roofs  of  rushes, 
and  white-washed  coolie  barracks  are  passed.  In 
crossing  the  numerous  rivers,  women  are  seen  in 
the  water  washing  clothes.  After  dipping  their 
soapy  clothes  into  the  water,  they  lay  them  upon  a 


144 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


smooth  rock,  and  beat  them  with  a paddle.  After 
they  are  thoroughly  cleansed  they  are  spread  out  to 
dry  upon  the  rocks.  The  women  have  their  skirts 
caught  up  about  their  hips  ; and  their  round,  well- 
shaped limbs,  wet  with  river  water,  shine  like  pol- 
ished mahogany. 

After  a four  hours’  run,  the  train  arrives  at  Port 
Antonio.  The  town  is  some  few  minutes’  walk 
from  the  station.  It  is  the  chief  town  in  the  parish 
of  Portland,  and  as  a shipping-port  ranks  next  to 
Kingston  in  the  whole  island.  It  is  the  great  centre 
and  emporium  of  the  fruit-trade,  which  is  now  the 
staple  industry  of  this  part  of  Jamaica.  It  is  also 
the  headquarters  of  the  Boston  Fruit  Company, 
whose  wharves  and  buildings  are  passed  after  leav- 
ing the  railway  station,  on  the  road  leading  to  the 
town. 

At  no  other  place  in  Jamaica  has  there  been  so 
great  a change  during  the  last  few  years  as  in 
the  village  of  Port  Antonio.  The  northeastern  end 
of  the  island  comprised  within  the  parish  of  Port- 
land was  virtually  abandoned  by  the  whites,  and 
the  negroes  were  rapidly  relapsing  into  a state  of 
savagery  again.  All  the  great  sugar  estates  had 
been  abandoned,  and  were,  in  the  quaint,  terse  lan- 
guage of  the  courts,  “ in  ruinate,”  and  given  over 
to  pasturage  for  cattle  ; buildings,  walls,  chimneys, 
and  aqueducts  were  all  going  to  ruin,  and  the 
on-coming  tide  of  foliage,  like  a green  wave,  was 
ingulfing  them.  Even  now  in  Eastern  Portland, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Manchioneal,  the  traveller  is  im- 
pressed with  a feeling  of  desolation.  Mile  after 


Port  Antonio. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


145 


mile  of  unused,  unredeemed  acres,  once  flourishing 
with  cane,  but  now  given  over  to  wild  growths, 
sadden  even  the  most  optimistic  observer.  Here 
has  been  a dreadful  loss  ; the  cause  of  this  desertion 
of  estates  will  be  noticed  elsewhere  in  this  work. 

But  there  comes  a point  where  this  decay  is  ar- 
rested, and  a new  life  appears  to  animate  the  scene. 
The  population  is  larger  and  thriftier;  the  waste 
acres  are  taken  up,  and  planted  with  fruit.  Every- 
where one  sees  evidence  of  greater  prosperity ; the 
old  order  of  things  has  changed  ; the  banana  has 
succeeded  in  supplanting  the  sugar-cane.  This 
remarkable  change  commenced  in  1868,  when  the 
initial  effort  was  first  made  in  fruit  shipment,  which 
has  resulted  so  beneficially,  not  only  for  Port  An- 
tonio, but  the  whole  island  of  Jamaica. 

In  a work  published  a few  years  ago  on  Jamaica,1 
the  author  refers  to  the  pioneer  banana  shipper  in 
the  following;  terms  : — 

“ About  fifteen  years  ago  a Yankee  skipper, 
knocking  about  with  his  schooner,  had  occasion  to 
call  at  some  ports  on  the  easterly  part  of  the  island. 
His  keen  eye  looked  with  interest  on  the  bananas 
that  were  so  plentifully  offered  him  ; and  knowing 
the  taste  the  Americans  were  fast  acquiring  for  this 
delicious  fruit,  but  which  was  rarely  found  in  the 
American  markets,  set  himself  the  task  of  devising 
means  to  convey  the  fruit  in  a sound  condition  to 
those  markets.  The  success  which  has  followed  is 
shown  by  the  fact  that  the  shipment  of  bananas  to 
America  has  become  one  of  the  leading  industries 
of  the  island.” 


1 “Picturesque  Jamaica.1 


146 


STARK  \S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


In  1S87  a copartnership  was  formed  by  several 
Boston  gentlemen,  known  as  the  Boston  Fruit  Com- 
pany. The  management  was  invested  in  Captain 
Jesse  H.  Freeman  as  general  manager,  A.  W. 
Preston  as  assistant  manager,  and  Captain  L.  D. 
Baker  as  manager  of  the  tropical  division.  In 
1890,  after  the  death  of  Captain  Jesse  FI.  Free- 
man, the  copartnership  was  changed  into  a Massa- 
chusetts corporation  under  the  same  name.  Captain 
Baker  — the  skipper  previously  referred  to  — was 
the  leading  spirit  in  the  new  enterprise,  and  has 
stood  at  its  head  ever  since,  being  its  president  and 
the  manager  of  its  tropical  division,  in  which  duties 
he  is  ably  assisted  by  Mr.  J.  A.  Jones  as  assistant 
manager  and  director  in  the  company,  while  Mr. 
Preston  manages  the  Boston  division.  The  com- 
pany  has  now  a capital  of  $500,000,  with  a surplus 
of  $1,750,000;  owns  and  leases  60,000  acres  of 
land ; employs  sixteen  steamships  to  carry  the  fruit 
to  the  United  States;  and  annually  ships  5,000,000 
bunches  of  bananas  and  10,000,000  cocoanuts,  be- 
sides quantities  of  pimento,  coffee,  and  cocoa.  The 
labor  on  the  plantation  is  done  by  both  negroes  and 
East  Indian  coolies ; some  six  hundred  of  the  latter 
being  employed,  and  more  coming,  for  the  negroes 
cannot  be  depended  upon.  Upwards  of  six  hun- 
dred mules  are  daily  in  harness  to  carry  the  fruit 
from  the  plantations  to  the  ships ; eight  hundred 
head  of  working  oxen  are  used  for  ploughing  and  - 
other  work,  and  a large  additional  number  of  cattle 
are  kept  on  the  grazing-lands  of  the  company. 
Sixteen  steamships  of  the  company  ply  between 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


147 


Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  Baltimore. 
One  steamer  a day  is  despatched  on  an  average  to 
some  one  of  these  ports.  They  are  all  iron  vessels, 
and  are  built  for  speed,  which  is  a very  necessary 
point  in  transporting  fruit.  Until  recently  the  car- 
rying of  passengers  was  a side  issue ; but  now  four 
new  steamers,  the  Beverly,  Belvedere,  Brookline, 
and  Barnstable,  have  just  been  added  to  the  fleet, 
each  possessing  large  and  elegant  passenger  accom- 
modations, with  all  the  appointments  of  a private 
yacht. 

There  are  some  forty  banana  and  cocoanut  plan- 
tations in  cultivation ; each  of  these  has  its  superin- 
tendent, while  a general  superintendent  has  charge 
of  the  whole.  Private  telephone  lines  connect  each 
plantation  with  the  president’s  office  in  Port  Antonio, 
so  that  the  whole  business  is  practically  always 
under  his  eye.  There  is  the  most  perfect  order 
and  organization  with  everything  connected  with 
the  business  of  this  company.  The  growth  of  the 
banana  business  in  the  United  States  has  increased 
to  immense  proportions.  Formerly  a few  bunches 
brought  by  sugar-vessels  to  the  principal  ports  were 
considered  a rare  delicacy  : now  they  are  as  plenti- 
ful in  all  large  cities  as  the  native  fruits,  and  just  as 
cheap  ; every  New  England  country  grocery-store 
has  its  bunch  of  bananas.  This  growth  is  due 
to  the  substitution  of  steamers  for  sailing-vessels, 
and  the  improved  methods  of  handling  and  dis- 
tributing the  fruit. 

The  Boston  Fruit  Company  found  it  necessary  to 
provide  a hotel  for  the  constantly  increasing  number 


148 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRATED 


of  passengers  coming  to  Port  Antonio  by  their  steam- 
ers. They  accordingly  bought  the  Titchtield  prop- 
erty, situated  on  a commanding  hill  which  overlooks 
the  town  and  harbor,  one  of  the  finest  sites  imagi- 
nable. Here  they  have  established  a novel  style  of 
hotel,  which  is  admirably  adapted  to  a hot  climate. 
There  is  a group  of  cottages  on  the  top  of  the  hill 
which  constitute  the  sleeping-rooms ; entirely  dis- 
tinct from  these  is  a capacious  dining-room,  with 
convenient  kitchen,  while  the  laundry  is  in  another 
building.  A central  cottage  contains  a parlor,  read- 
ing-room, and  baths.  The  table  is  thoroughly  ex- 
cellent, the  best  on  the  island,  being  liberally  supplied 
with  northern  products,  which  are  brought  in  cold 
storage  by  the  steamers  of  the  company  that  arrive 
almost  daily.  The  viands  are  daintily  served  by 
New  England  waitresses,  the  same  as  at  the  Hamil- 
ton in  Bermuda.  The  rates  at  this  hotel  are  from 
105.  to  125.  per  day. 

The  harbor  of  Port  Antonio  is  divided  into  two 
parts  by  a jutting  promontory  of  coral  rock,  carpeted 
with  green  turf.  On  this  peninsula  stand  the  re- 
mains of  a picturesque  ancient  fort,  and  behind  it 
the  old  barracks.  From  the  farther  margin  of  each 
harbor  the  hills  rise  step  by  step,  profusely  covered 
with  tropical  vegetation,  and  plumed  with  many  a 
tall  cocoanut,  among  which  the  green  blinds  and 
the  red  roofs  of  the  houses  look  out  seaward.  Be- 
hind these  again  mount  ridge  upon  ridge  of  the  Blue 
Mountain  Range,  right  up  into  the  clouds  that  hang 
about  the  peaks.  Outside  the  mouth  of  the  harbor 
white-crested  waves  break  against  the  iron  rock  on 


Harbor  Port  Antonio. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


149 


which  the  red  lighthouse  is  perched.  The  visitor 
who  arrives  here  by  vessel  will  never  forget  the 
entrance  to  Port  Antonio,  especially  if  he  should 
chance  to  arrive  at  early  morning  or  towards  sunset. 
The  vessel  comes  bounding  in  on  the  swell,  rushing 
apparently  to  certain  destruction,  when  suddenly 
swinging  under  the  lee  of  the  island  that  guards 
the  mouth  of  the  west  harbor,  she  glides  along  past 
the  hotel  on  even  keel  over  the  unruffled  surface 
of  the  harbor,  till  she  anchors  alongside  one  of  the 
wharves. 

Port  Antonio  contains  a population  of  about  2,000  ; 
but  outside  of  the  American  colony  connected  with 
the  Fruit  Company,  there  are  not  a half-dozen  white 
people  in  the  town. 

There  are  many  places  of  interest  in  the  vicin- 
ity worth  visiting,  among  them  the  magnificent  ba- 
nana plantation  of  Golden  Vale.  The  road  leading 
to  the  plantation  from  Port  Antonio  is  through  a 
mountainous  country,  encumbered  with  some  rocks 
and  inequalities,  and  beautified  by  many  windings. 
The  country  through  which  it  passes  is  rich  and  fer- 
tile, well  cultivated,  and  abounding  with  picturesque 
views.  The  road  descends  into  the  valley  of  the 
Rio  Grande.  This  river,  rising  near  Bath,  twenty- 
five  miles  from  the  sea,  flows  through  the  heart  of 
the  banana  country.  It  is  the  second  river  in  size 
in  Jamaica,  and  one  of  the  swiftest  of  those  erratic 
streams  that  flow  pleasantly  within  narrow  limits 
one  day,  and  the  next  sweep  down,  full  and  ter- 
rific torrents,  angry  and  swollen  by  a storm  in  the 
surrounding  mountains. 


150 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


All  about  Jamaica  the  waters  of  the  rivers  rise,  or, 
as  the  negroes  say,  “ come  down,”  from  the  moun- 
tains very  suddenly ; and  often  travellers  have  been 
imprisoned  for  days  between  two  torrents,  on  a strip 
of  country  where  there  can  be  found  neither  town 
nor  lodging-house  nor  any  shelter  whatever.  Cross- 
ing the  river  by  a ford,  from  which  a most  delight- 
ful view  of  mountains,  wooded  point,  and  level 
mirroring  pools  may  be  enjoyed,  we  soon  enter  the 
property  known  as  “ Golden  Vale,”  once  a great 
sugar  estate,  but  now  converted  to  banana  cultiva- 
tion. It  is  one  of  the  finest  estates  of  the  Boston 
Fruit  Company,  and  has  an  output  of  upwards 
of  thirty  thousand  bunches  annually.  There  are 
large  herds  of  oxen  and  droves  of  mules,  and  fields 
of  cane  grown  as  fodder  for  the  cattle  used  upon 
the  plantation.  The  whole  landscape  is  one  of  rich 
and  perfect  cultivation.  Beyond  the  cane-fields  are 
hundreds  of  acres  green  with  bananas.  Near  the 
boundary  of  the  old  estate  are  the  great  stone  build- 
ings formerly  used  in  the  crushing  of  cane,  the 
manufacture  of  sugar  and  rum,  storage  and  prep- 
aration of  indigo.  These  are  now  converted  into 
shops,  depots,  and  schoolhouses.  Most  of  the  chil- 
dren in  the  vicinity  of  Golden  Vale  attend  the  free 
school,  which  is  kept  up  by  the  bounty  of  the 
owners  of  the  plantation. 

Upon  the  ruins  of  very  extensive  buildings  near 
the  top  of  the  hill,  once  the  great  house  of  the 
Golden  Vale  sugar  plantation,  now  moss-covered 
and  crumbling,  stands  the  house  where  the  busher, 
or  overseer,  lives  and  directs.  Near  by,  across  a 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


15  I 

small  valley,  is  a settlement  of  coolies,  of  whom 
there  are  a hundred  or  more  employed  on  the  plan- 
tation. 

Golden  Vale  is  about  half-way  to  the  Maroon 
town  known  as  Moortown  ; it  is  reached  by  follow- 
ing the  same  road.  These  Maroons  have  lived 
here  a great  many  years  unmolested  in  the  hills, 
enjoying  certain  privileges  and  immunities  long 
ago  wrested  from  the  government,  as  described  in 
another  chapter.  The  Maroons  have  nothing  in 
common  with  the  ordinary  negro,  on  whom  they 
look  down  with  the  supremest  contempt.  In  the 
rising  of  1865  these  Maroons  supported  the  govern- 
ment, and  were  of  great  service  in  hunting,  killing, 
and  capturing  the  rebels ; they  showed  less  mercy 
than  the  whites  to  the  negroes  that  fell  into  their 
hands.  Probably  in  time,  with  growing  intelligence 
and  prosperity,  these  people  will  become  gradually 
merged  in  the  common  population.  Farther  up  the 
road  the  wild  and  beautiful  Cuna  Cuna  Pass  is 
reached.  Only  on  horseback  can  one  advance  as 
far  as  the  pass.  Having  crossed  it,  and  enjoyed  its 
coolness,  and  perhaps  a shower  as  well,  the  traveller 
descends  by  the  bridle-road  previously  described  to 
Bath. 


152 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

AGRICULTURE  AND  CLIMATE. 

Jamaica  is  essentially  an  agricultural  country. 
Rum  and  unrefined  sugar  are  the  only  articles  of 
any  importance  that  are  manufactured ; and  the 
latter  industry  is  on  the  wane,  as  the  profits  are  so 
small,  owing  to  competition  with  the  bounty-fed 
beet  sugar.  But  on  coffee-  banana-  and  cocoanut- 
growing, the  profit  is  large,  and  they  are  all  pro- 
duced in  immense  quantities. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  century  sugar  was  king  ; 
and  he  reigned  till  the  freeing  of  the  slaves,  and 
then  came  beet-sugar  competition  to  complete  his 
downfall.  During  the  reign  of  prosperity,  fine 
roads  were  built,  new  houses  were  erected,  and  the 
land  was  all  cultivated ; even  the  rough  mountain 
lands  of  the  interior  were  brought  into  requisition, 
and  an  almost  unbroken  belt  of  sugar  plantations 
encircled  the  island.  The  owner  of  a large  sugar 
estate  lived  like  a prince,  for  he  had  a princely  in- 
come ; then  the  very  acme  of  prosperity  was  reached. 

Then  came  a change.  In  1838  the  negroes  of 
Jamaica,  through  the  exertions  of  the  venerated 
Wilberforce  and  other  philanthropists  in  England, 
became  freedmen.  In  the  early  years  of  the  great- 
est reign  England  has  known,  an  attempt  was  made 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


153 


to  right  a great  wrong,  and  to  set  an  example  to 
the  whole  world.  This  brought  about  a most  bitter 
feeling  on  the  part  of  the  planters.  They  denied 
the  right  of  the  Imperial  Government  to  legislate 
for  Jamaica,  and  threatened  to  unite  with  the  United 
States,  where  they  would  be  protected  in  the  owner- 
ship of  their  slaves. 

Emancipation  found  the  planters  in  a pitiable 
condition  financially.  The  majority  were  debtors  ; 
and  the  £5,853,975  sterling,  awarded  as  compen- 
sation for  the  loss  of  their  human  property,  was 
insufficient,  as  the  sum  went  for  the  most  part 
into  the  hands  of  creditors.  They  were  left  with 
a scarcity  of  labor,  antiquated  machinery,  a poor 
market,  and  without  resources. 

The  sudden  emancipation  of  slaves,  in  whatever 
country,  has  always  been  followed  by  a period  of 
depression  similar  to  that  which  Jamaica  has  passed  ; 
but  if  the  country  be  naturally  a good  one,  it  will 
eventually  recover.  There  is  no  question  now  that 
a period  of  great  prosperity  has  begun  in  Jamaica. 
Land  has  appreciated  in  value.  The  opening  up 
of  the  country  by  the  railway  has  given  to  the  inte- 
rior districts  the  advantages  of  transportation,  which 
were  formerly  enjoyed  only  by  the  dwellers  on  the 
coast.  The  coffee  and  fruit  industries  have  in- 
creased very  rapidly  within  the  last  fifteen  years. 
Coffee-growing  is  the  best  of  all  these  industries, 
not  only  because  coffee  is  non-perishable,  and 
therefore  easily  transported,  but  because  there  is 
every  indication  that  the  high  prices  which  now 
rule  will  continue  for  many  years.  Moreover,  on 


154 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


the  high  lands,  which  are  best  suited  to  coffee,  the 
climate  is  cool  and  pleasant.  As  to  profits,  the  cost 
of  producing  a pound  of  coffee  is  from  five  to  seven 
cents,  while  it  sells  readily  at  from  sixteen  to  twenty- 
five  cents ; and  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  supply 
of  coffee  has  never  been  equal  to  the  demand. 

The  natural  requirements  of  the  banana  plant  are 
totally  different  from  the  coffee-tree ; for  while  the 
latter  flourishes  in  the  cool  mountain  country,  the 
former  requires  a hot  climate,  and,  being  an  ex- 
tremely heavy  feeder,  will  only  grow  in  perfection 
on  the  rich,  plain  land.  It  is  true  that  bananas 
can  grow  in  any  part  of  the  island,  and  the  small 
patches  of  the  negroes  are  often  seen  on  steep  hill- 
sides and  far  in  the  interior.  But  this  fruit  is 
generally  small  and  inferior,  and  the  plant  does 
not  attain  its  proper  proportions.  The  large  plan- 
tations of  the  white  men  are  always  on  the  flat 
lands. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  the  reader  to  know 
how  bananas  are  grown.  After  the  land  has  been 
ploughed,  which  is  done  with  a very  large  plough 
drawn  by  eight  or  ten  oxen,  the  plants  are  set  in 
straight  rows,  ten  to  fifteen  feet  apart,  and  about 
eight  feet  apart  in  the  row.  The  plants  attain  a 
height  of  ten  or  fifteen  feet,  according  to  soil  and 
cultivation.  At  the  end  of  a year  the  first  crop 
is  ready  for  gathering.  Each  plant  produces  one 
bunch,  after  which  it  is  worthless,  and  is  cut  down 
and  left  on  the  ground  to  rot.  But  new  plants  or 
suckers  are  constantly  coming  up  from  the  root, 
and  three  or  four  of  these  are  allowed  to  grow. 


HUSKING  COCOANUTS,  PORT  ANTONIO. 


I 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


155 


Thus  when  the  first  plant  is  cut  down,  another  is 
nearly  ready  to  bear,  while  one  or  two  others  are 
in  different  stages  of  growth.  This  process  can  be 
continued  for  about  seven  years,  by  which  time  the 
ground  is  so  full  of  roots  that  it  is  necessary  to 
plough  it  up  and  replant.  The  coolie  banana  cut- 
ter is  very  expert  at  his  work ; he  passes  around 
among  the  plants,  selects  a bunch  of  fruit  which 
is  perfectly  filled  out  and  fully  developed.  As  it 
hangs  from  the  plant,  it  is  far  above  the  reach  of  the 
cutter,  and  to  bring  it  to  the  ground  without  injury 
requires  long  practice.  With  his  machete  he  slashes 
the  stem,  cutting  it  about  half  through.  The  weight 
of  the  bunch  of  bananas  at  once  causes  the  plant  to 
bend  down  ; and  as  it  droops  slowly  downwards,  the 
coolie  quickly  catches  hold  of  the  stem,  which 
grows  from  the  lower  end  of  the  bunch,  at  the  same 
moment  clipping  the  stem  at  the  other  end  of  the 
bunch  from  the  plant  with  one  blow  of  his  machete. 
With  another  sweep  of  the  machete  he  clips  off  the 
great  maroon-colored  plummet  that  he  holds  in  his 
hand  ; and  as  the  bunch  touches  the  ground,  it  is 
ready  to  be  carted  to  the  wharf,  the  whole  opera- 
tion occupying  only  a few  seconds. 

Banana-growing,  if  carried  on  on  a large  scale, 
pays  handsomely.  But  as  the  price  fluctuates  much 
more  than  that  of  coffee,  it  has  not  the  element  of 
certainty  that  the  latter  possesses. 

There  are  many  fine  cocoanut  groves  on  the 
island  ; but  owing  to  the  long  time  necessary  to  wait 
for  the  first  crop,  not  as  much  has  been  done  in 
cocoanut-growing  as  in  other  industries.  The  trees 


156 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


seldom  bear  until  seven  years  old  ; but  once  in  bear- 
ing they  continue  for  a hundred  years,  and  are  a 
veritable  mine  of  wealth  to  their  owners.  A single 
tree  produces  on  an  average  a hundred  nuts  a year. 
There  is  no  fixed  season  for  blossoming  and  fruit- 
ing. On  the  same  tree  blossoms,  green  fruit,  and 
ripe  fruit  can  always  be  seen.  Cocoanut-trees  like 
sea  air,  and  do  not  do  well  if  planted  too  far  from 
the  coast ; but  they  flourish  either  on  the  hillsides 
or  on  the  plains,  and  though,  like  nearly  all  plants, 
they  do  best  on  good  land,  they  do  not  require  so 
rich  a soil  as  bananas.  After  the  first  few  years 
they  need  no  cultivation  ; and  as  soon  as  their  tops 
are  out  of  reach,  the  land  on  which  they  grow  can 
be  put  into  grass  and  pasturage. 

Oranges  grow  in  perfection  on  the  higher  lands, 
and  since  the  great  Florida  freeze  good  prices  have 
been  realized  for  them  in  the  United  States.  Lem- 
ons, limes,  grape-fruit,  shaddocks,  and  all  kinds 
of  citrus  fruit,  grow  well  in  Jamaica.  With  more 
care  in  the  gathering  and  packing,  there  is  no 
question  but  that  there  is  a great  future  for  this 
class  of  fruit  in  the  markets  of  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain. 

Most  excellent  vegetables  can  be  grown  so  as  to 
be  ready  for  market  between  December  and  March. 
Jamaica  is  thus  capable  of  being  made  the  market- 
garden  of  the  United  States  during  a season  of  the 
year  in  which  it  would  have  a monopoly. 

The  keeping  of  live  stock  plays  an  important 
part  in  the  agriculture  of  Jamaica.  All  the  horses, 
mules,  working-oxen,  and  fresh  meats  used  there 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


157 


are  produced  on  the  island.  The  stock-farms,  or 
pens  as  they  are  commonly  called  in  Jamaica, 
usually  comprise  from  five  hundred  to  one  thousand 
acres  of  grass  land,  with  perhaps  as  much  more  of 
woodland  or  ruinate,  — abandoned  land  covered  with 
bushes  and  small  trees.  The  grass  land  is  sub- 
divided into  large  fields,  and  comprises  pimento 
grass  on  the  highlands,  and  Bahama  grass  if  on 
the  lowlands  or  coast.  Guinea  grass,  which  flour- 
ishes in  either  locality,  is  by  far  the  most  valuable, 
and  grows  so  luxuriantly  that  a field  of  it  will  keep 
double  the  number  of  cattle  that  the  field  would  in 
any  other  kind  of  grass.  It  is  perennial,  coarse 
and  rank  in  appearance,  but  very  rich  and  fatten- 
ing ; and  all  kinds  of  stock  except  sheep  are  very 
fond  of  it. 

The  horses  of  Jamaica  are  generally  small,  but 
clean  and  wiry  in  appearance,  of  wonderful  endu- 
rance, and  show  plainly  their  thorough  blood.  It 
costs  about  £7  to  raise  a three-year-old  horse,  while 
such  sells  readily  at  from  £15  to  £30  per  head, 
according  to  size  and  appearance.  Mules  sell  at 
about  the  same  price  as  horses,  and  the  demands 
for  them  are  constant. 

Of  cattle  there  are  many  breeds,  Herefords, 
Ayrshires,  Devons,  Shorthorns,  and  East  Indian  all 
being  well  represented.  They  are  bred  for  work- 
ing-oxen and  for  beef,  milking  qualities  being  little 
considered.  Four-year-old  steers  broken  to  the  yoke 
bring  from  £20  to  £30  per  pair,  while  the  cost  of 
raising  is  about  £7  per  head.  The  East  Indian 
or  Hindu  cattle,  however,  bring  a much  higher 


153 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


price ; as  from  their  quickness,  endurance,  and 
ability  to  stand  the  heat,  they  are  the  best  of  all 
breeds  for  a hot  country.  These  cattle  were  first 
brought  to  Jamaica  from  Bombay  by  the  Hon. 
Evelyn  Ellis,  whose  magnificent  grazing-farms  of 
Shettlewood  and  Montpelier  are  one  of  the  show 
places  of  the  island. 

There  are  two  distinct  strains,  or  families,  — the 
Mysore  and  the  Kattewar.  These  two  breeds  are 
crossed ; and  the  result  is  a class  of  working-oxen 
as  near  perfect  as  can  be  found  for  the  tropics,  — 
active,  enduring,  and  adapted  to  the  climate.  Many 
of  these  cattle  are  used  on  the  Boston  Fruit  Com- 
pany estates. 

Not  much  attention  is  paid  to  sheep  husbandry 
in  Jamaica,  and  the  sheep  of  the  island  do  not  com- 
pare favorably  with  the  other  live  stock.  Still,  the 
price  of  dressed  mutton  is  about  twice  as  high  as  in 
the  United  States  or  England,  and  with  better  stock 
and  attention  there  is  no  reason  why  sheep-raising 
should  not  pay  as  well  as  cattle  or  horses. 

Jamaica  consumes  a great  deal  of  material  pro- 
duced and  manufactured  in  other  countries.  She 
receives  most  from  Great  Britain,  and  sends  most  to 
the  United  States.  The  import  duties,  however,  are 
the  same  on  goods  brought  from  the  United  States 
as  they  are  on  goods  imported  from  Great  Britain. 
This  rule  will  hold  good  in  all  British  colonies 
except  Canada,  which  has  recently  discriminated 
against  the  United  States  in  favor  of  England  on 
account  of  the  hostile  tariff  legislation  aimed  against 
her  in  the  Dingley  bill. 


River  Head 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


I 59 


All  of  the  necessaries  and  most  of  the  luxuries  of 
modern  life,  American  as  well  as  English,  are  to 
be  found  in  all  of  the  principal  towns  at  moderate 
prices.  The  food  supply  is  ample  and  cheap,  fruit 
being  especially  so.  In  general,  prices  compare 
favorably  with  those  of  northern  countries,  even  for 
imported  goods.  The  working-day  for  outdoor  la- 
borers is  supposed  to  be  ten  hours  in  the  vicinity  of 
Kingston,  and  eight  hours  in  the  country.  Mechan- 
ics get  from  2 5.  3d.  to  55.  6d.  a day;  male  laborers, 
15.  6d.  to  25.  ; and  women,  9 d.  to  15.  A team  of 
two  mules  with  driver  costs  7 5.  per  day. 

Much  of  the  work,  especially  in  the  country,  is 
done  by  what  is  known  as  “task-work,”  a survival 
of  the  slave  days  ; the  prices  of  which  are  generally 
low.  There  is  a great  scarcity  of  skilled  labor ; 
and  although  there  is  such  a large  population,  the 
sugar  estates  and  other  occupations  requiring  a 
large  amount  of  help  find  common  laborers  scarce, 
so  much  so  that  the  government  has  been  obliged 
to  send  to  India  for  coolies,  otherwise  many  more 
of  the  plantations  would  have  long  since  been 
abandoned. 

CLIMATE. 

Probably  there  is  no  other  place  in  the  world 
of  the  same  size  as  Jamaica  that  possesses  such  a 
wonderful  variety  of  climate,  or  offers  so  many 
advantages  for  a pleasant  and  salubrious  residence 
suited  to  invalids,  as  this  island. 

The  varied  surface  of  Jamaica,  with  altitudes 
ranging  from  the  levels  along  the  sea,  up  through 


i6o 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


the  plateaus  of  the  western  end  of  the  island  to  the 
7,360  feet  of  the  Blue  Mountain  Peaks,  affords  a 
range  of  climate  which  leaves  little  to  be  desired, 
provided  the  ability  to  move  from  one  elevation  to 
the  other  is  taken  for  granted. 

It  is  true  that  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  August, 
and  September  the  heat  is  great  in  Kingston;  but 
residence  there  in  those  months  is  rendered  bear- 
able and  even  pleasant  by  the  constant  blowing  of 
the  sea-breeze,  called  by  the  early  Spanish  settlers 
“ El  Medico,”  during  the  day,  and  the  north  winds 
from  the  hills  during  the  night.  Even  at  the  hot- 
test  season  of  the  year  the  hot  and  sultry  nights 
of  the  “ bleak  northland  ” are  unknown  in  Jamaica. 
Persons  resident  in  the  island  for  many  years  have 
never  experienced  a time  when  during  a whole 
night  through  sleep  was  uncomfortable  by  reason 
of  the  heat.  Rather  is  it  likely  to  be  disturbed  by 
the  necessity  of  procuring  an  extra  blanket  between 
the  hours  of  two  and  five  a.m.  The  daily  aver- 
age during  the  hot  season  is  8o°  and  the  maximum 
87°,  and  the  atmosphere  is  remarkably  dry.  Dur- 
ing the  night  the  mercury  goes  down  to  63°,  and 
seldom  remains  over  70°.  The  temperature  varies 
with  the  altitude.  When  a change  is  necessary  to 
the  dweller  on  the  lower  levels,  a few  weeks  or 
days  in  the  bracing  and  invigorating  mountain  air 
of  the  hills  is  a great  recuperator. 

While  the  general  average  of  temperature  is  re- 
markably uniform  throughout  the  island,  the  aver- 
age rainfall  presents  phenomena  which  seem  to  be 
quite  beyond  the  present  understanding  of  the  stu- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 6 1 


dents  of  meteorology.  While  rain  may  not  fall  for 
weeks  in  Kingston  during  the  winter  season,  yet  it 
can  be  seen  raining  on  the  Blue  Mountain  Peaks 
nearly  every  hour  in  the  day.  A visitor  to  the  Dry 
Harbor  mountains  of  St.  Ann  may  find  the  inhab- 
itants of  Brownstown  and  vicinity  actually  suffering 
for  water ; and  yet  after  a brief  journey  into  the 
adjoining  parishes,  both  to  the  south  and  west,  he 
will  come  to  regions  where  the  red  clay  and  con- 
trasting deep  green  will  tell  him  of  the  almost  daily 
heavy  showers  which  render  these  plateaus  at  times 
rather  too  damp  for  comfort. 

May  and  October  are  the  two  great  rainy  seasons, 
in  which  months  at  the  new  or  full  moon  it  begins 
to  rain,  and  continues  day  and  night  for  a whole 
fortnight  with  great  violence,  so  that  the  earth  in 
all  level  places  is  laid  under  water  for  some  inches. 

Jamaica  in  the  past,  as  well  as  in  the  present,  has 
suffered  much  from  misrepresentation.  To  many 
people  Jamaica  has  been  considered  the  “ grave  of 
Europeans,”  and  a passage  to  this  lovely  “ Isle  of 
Summer  ” is  almost  synonymous  with  ordering  a 
coffin.  The  yellow  fever,  earthquakes,  and  hurri- 
canes form  a slight  epitome  of  prevalent  notions 
regarding  Jamaica. 

For  people  of  temperate  habits  Jamaica  is  as 
healthy  a place  for  residence  as  any  in  the  United 
States  or  England. 

Dr.  Phillippo,  a physician  of  high  standing,  in 
his  valuable  treatise  on  the  climate  of  Jamaica,  says, 
“ It  cannot  be  denied  that  fevers  do  arise  sponta- 
neously in  certain  localities  among  unacclimatized 


i62 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Europeans,  who  have  most  probably  exposed  them- 
selves to  several,  and  generally  to  the  whole,  of  the 
following  conditions  ; namely,  exposure  to  the  mid- 
day heat,  wet  clothes,  wet  feet,  fatigue,  exposure 
at  night  to  the  chills  and  malaria  arising  from 
lagoons  and  swamps  after  sunset,  and,  above  all, 
intemperance  in  drink.  Let  him  avoid  these  con- 
ditions, and  the  European  will  avoid  fatal  fevers.” 
Nothing  is  more  dangerous  to  health  in  this  climate 
than  an  excessive  indulgence  in  alcoholic  stimulants. 
Many  young  men,  coming  out  from  the  colder 
north,  usually  in  the  winter  months  when  the  con- 
trast in  temperature  is  very  great,  find  here  a social 
condition  among  the  better  class  of  men  which  is 
famous  for  its  hospitality  and  good  fellowship  ; and 
while  his  host,  though  sometimes  the  happier,  is  sel- 
dom indeed  the  worse  for  his  glass,  the  stranger,  on 
the  other  hand,  though  the  last  person  to  indulge  in 
such  freedom,  too  often  attempts  to  vie  with  and 
outdo  his  hospitable  acquaintance.  The  result  is 
frequently  an  attack  of  “ pernicious”  fever,  so  called 
here,  — a form  of  fever  which,  though  not  by  any 
means  the  dreaded  “yellow  jack,”  has  no  doubt  often 
been  called  upon  to  bear  that  fatal  malady’s  burden. 
A concensus  of  opinion,  taken  from  numbers  of  the 
medical  men  throughout  the  island,  bears  out  the 
statement  that  fully  one-half  the  deaths  of  visitors 
or  temporary  residents  from  febrile  causes  can 
readily  be  traced  to  excess  in  liquor,  or  those  ex- 
posures which  intoxication  so  generally  leads  to. 
From  the  foregoing,  however,  it  should  not  be 
understood  that  the  death  rate  from  these  causes 


Matha  Brae 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


163 

is  common.  It  is  only  the  case  of  a low  death  rate 
somewhat  increased  by  these  breaches  of  the  laws 
of  hygiene.  This  fact  is  now  so  well  recognized, 
that  the  leading  life-insurance  companies  in  the 
United  States  allow  their  policies  to  cover  residence 
in  the  island  without  restrictions  or  the  increase  of 
rates. 

Dr.  James  Henry  Clark,  a medical  man  in  large 
practice  in  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains  of  Jamaica, 
writes  thus  of  the  island  as  a health  resort:  “To 
any  anxious  to  avoid  a winter,  or  suffering  from  a 
tendency  to  bronchitis,  inflammation  of  the  lungs, 
pleurisy,  rheumatism,  or  dyspepia,  must  in  a vari- 
able and  chilly  climate,  though  not  laboring  under 
advanced  disease,  be  confined  to  the  house  during 
a large  portion  of  the  year  to  avoid  the  almost  ‘ cer- 
tainty of  catching  cold’— to  all  such  persons  I do 
most  conscientiously  recommend  this  climate.  Here 
the  invalid  can  get  out  every  day  to  enjoy  these 
most  powerful  of  all  tonics, — fresh  air  and  exercise  ; 
and  thereby  promoting  appetite  and  digestion,  im- 
part vigor  and  tone  to  the  general  system.” 

There  are  several  medicinal  springs  in  Jamaica, 
some  thermal  and  others  cold,  which  possess  ther- 
apeutic properties  of  no  little  value,  and  which  are 
deserving  of  more  attention  than  they  have  hitherto 
received.  The  most  important  of  these,  or  at  least 
the  best  known,  and  the  only  ones  at  which  pass- 
able accommodations  for  visitors  are  yet  provided, 
are  the  Bath  at  St.  Thomas  the  Apostle,  about  a 
mile  from  the  town  of  Bath,  the  Jamaica  Spa  at 
Silver  Hill,  and  the  Milk  River  Bath  at  Vere. 


164 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


The  first  of  these  is  a thermal  sulphur,  the  second 
a chalybeate,  and  the  third  a thermal  saline  water. 
The  waters  of  one  or  the  other  of  the  springs  are 
of  value  taken  internally  and  applied  in  the  form 
of  a bath.  The  government  has  made  grants  from 
time  to  time  for  the  improvement  and  care  of  the 
buildings  at  these  baths;  but  there  is  yet  much  to 
be  desired  in  the  matter  of  cuisine,  bathing  facilities, 
attendance,  and  other  things  that  contribute  to  the 
comfort  and  entertainment  of  the  invalid. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


165 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THE  MAROONS. 

When  Jamaica  was  conquered  from  the  Span- 
iards in  1655,  the  Spanish  inhabitants  are  said  to 
have  possessed  fifteen  hundred  slaves,  composed  of 
native  Africans,  and  a mixture  of  African  and  the 
native  Indians,  whom  the  Spaniards  had  enslaved 
when  they  settled  the  island.  On  the  surrender  of 
their  masters  they  retreated  to  the  mountains,  from 
whence  they  made  frequent  excursions  to  harass 
the  English.  Major-General  Sedgewick,  one  of 
the  British  officers,  in  a letter  to  Secretary  Thurloe 
in  1656,  predicts  that  they  would  prove  a thorn  in 
the  side  of  the  English.  He  adds  that  they  gave 
no  quarter  to  his  men,  and  that  scarce  a week 
passed  without  murdering  one  or  more  of  them  ; 
and  as  the  soldiers  became  more  confident  and 
careless,  the  Maroons  grew  more  enterprising.  He 
stated  that  they  must  either  be  destroyed,  or  brought 
in  on  some  terms  or  other,  or  else  they  will  prove  a 
great  discouragement  to  the  settling  of  the  country. 
What  he  foretold  soon  came  to  pass  ; for  in  the  same 
year  the  army  gained  some  trifling  success  against 
them,  but  this  was  immediately  severely  retaliated 
by  the  slaughter  of  forty  soldiers,  cut  off  as  they 
were  carelessly  rambling  from  their  quarters. 


STARK  ’S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


1 66 

In  the  course  of  time  their  numbers  were  not 
only  augmented  by  natural  increase,  but  by  run- 
away slaves  from  the  English  planters.  At  length 
they  grew  confident  enough  of  their  force  to  under- 
take descents  upon  the  planters  in  die  interior  of 
the  island,  many  of  whom  they  murdered  without 
the  least  provocation,  and  by  their  barbarities  and 
outrages  intimidated  the  whites  from  venturing  to 
any  considerable  distance  from  the  coast. 

The  name  maroon  is  said  to  be  derived  from  the 
Spanish  word  marrano,  signifying  young  pig.  The 
woods  abounded  with  the  wild  boar ; and  the  pur- 
suit of  them  constituting  the  chief  employment  of 
fugitive  negroes,  they  were  consequently  called 
Maroons.  Their  language  was  a barbarous  mixture 
of  the  African  dialects  with  Spanish  and  English. 
In  common  with  all  African  tribes  they  believed  in 
Obi,  and  recognized  the  authority  of  such  of  their 
old  men  as  had  the  reputation  of  being  Obeah  men, 
who  were  sometimes  very  successfully  employed  in 
keeping  the  Maroons  in  subjection  to  their  chiefs. 
The  labors  of  the  field,  such  as  they  were,  and 
every  other  species  of  drudgery,  were  performed  by 
the  women ; for  the  Maroons,  like  all  other  savage 
nations,  regarded  their  wives  as  so  many  beasts  of 
burden.  Polygamy,  too,  with  their  other  African 
customs,  prevailed  among  the  Maroons  universally. 
Some  of  the  principal  men  claimed  from  two  to  six 
wives.  For  forty  years  the  Maroons  continued  to 
distress  the  island,  during  which  time  forty-four  Acts 
of  Assembly  were  passed,  and  at  least  £240,000 
expended  for  their  suppression.  In  1734  Captain 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


167 


Stoddart  projected  and  executed  with  great  success 
an  attack  on  Nanny  Town,  situated  in  the  Blue 
Mountain  range  at  the  windward  end  of  the  island. 
Having  provided  some  portable  swivel  guns,  he 
silently  approached,  and  reached  within  a short 
distance  of  their  quarters  undiscovered.  After  halt- 
ing for  some  time,  he  began  to  ascend  by  the  only 
path  leading  to  the  town.  lie  found  it  steep  and 
rocky  and  difficult,  and  not  wide  enough  to  admit 
the  passage  of  two  persons  abreast.  However,  he 
surmounted  these  obstacles ; and  having  gained  a 
small  eminence  commanding  the  huts  in  which  the 
negroes  were  asleep,  he  fixed  his  little  train  of 
artillery  to  the  best  advantage,  and  fired  upon 
them  with  so  great  an  effect  that  many  were  killed 
in  their  habitations,  and  several  threw  themselves 
headlong  down  the  precipice.  Captain  Stoddart 
followed  up  the  advantage,  killed  a great  number, 
took  many  prisoners,  and  so  completely  destroyed 
or  routed  the  whole  body  that  they  were  unable 
afterwards  to  effect  any  enterprise  of  any  account 
in  this  part  of  the  island. 

This  affair,  however,  only  proved  a temporary 
success  ; for  in  1736  the  Maroons  had  grown  so  for- 
midable, under  a very  able  leader  named  Cudjoe, 
that  it  was  found  necessary  to  send  from  England 
two  regiments  of  troops,  which  were  formed  into 
independent  companies,  and  employed  with  the  mi- 
litia in  defending  blockhouses,  which  they  erected 
as  near  as  possible  to  the  enemy’s  most  favorite 
haunts.  Their  general  plan  of  duty,  as  directed 
by  law,  was  to  make  excursions  from  their  block- 


i68 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


houses,  scour  the  woods  and  mountains,  and  de- 
stroy the  provision  gardens  and  haunts  of  the 
Maroons.  Each  garrison  was  also  furnished  with 
a pack  of  dogs,  provided  by  the  church-wardens  of 
the  respective  parishes.  These  animals  proved  ex- 
tremely serviceable,  not  only  in  guarding  against 
surprise  at  night,  but  in  tracking  the  enemy.  The 
next  year,  1737,  some  sloops  were  despatched  to 
the  Mosquito  coast,  and  brought  from  there  two 
hundred  Indians.  They  were  formed  into  com- 
panies under  their  own  officers.  White  guides  con- 
ducted them  to  the  enemy's  country.  When  they 
discovered  a trail  they  were  sure  to  track  the  en- 
emy to  his  quarters.  They  proved  very  effective, 
and  were  well  rewarded  for  their  services,  and 
after  the  war  was  over  were  sent  back  to  their  own 
country.  The  Maroons  never  dared  to  make  a 
stand,  or  take  the  risk  of  a pitched  battle ; they 
skulked  about  remote  plantations,  murdering  the 
whites  by  two  or  three  at  a time.  By  night  they 
came  into  the  settlements,  set  fire  to  the  cane-fields 
and  out-buildings,  killed  the  cattle,  and  carried  the 
slaves  into  captivity.  They  knew  every  secret 
avenue  of  the  country,  so  they  could  either  conceal 
themselves  from  pursuit  or  shift  their  ravages  from 
place  to  place.  Such  were  the  foes  the  English 
had  to  deal  with,  who  could  not  be  reached  by  any 
plan  of  attack,  who  possessed  no  plunder  to  allure 
or  reward  the  assailants,  nor  had  anything  to  lose 
except  life  and  a wild  and  savage  freedom. 

The  arrangements  made  for  their  neduction,  as 
previously  stated,  proved  very  successful ; for  so 


Attack  on  Trelawney  Town. 


I/O 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


many  fortresses  stationed  in  the  very  centre  of  their 
usual  retreats,  well  supplied  with  every  necessary, 
gave  the  Maroons  a constant  and  vigorous  annoy- 
ance, and  in  the  end  brought  the  war  to  a close  ; 
for  in  1738  Governor  Trelawney,  by  the  advice  of 
the  principal  gentlemen  of  the  island,  proposed 
overtures  of  peace  with  the  Maroon  chiefs.  Both 
parties  had  grown  weary  of  the  contest.  The 
white  inhabitants  wished  relief  from  the  horrors  of 
continued  alarms,  the  hardships  of  military  duty, 
and  the  burden  of  maintaining  an  army.  The  Ma- 
roons were  not  less  anxious.  They  were  hemmed 
in  and  closely  beset  on  all  sides,  their  provisions 
destroyed,  and  themselves  reduced  to  so  miserable 
a condition  by  famine  and  incessant  attacks,  that 
Cudjoe  afterwards  declared  that  if  peace  had  not 
been  offered  to  them,  they  had  no  choice  left  but 
either  to  starve,  la}r  violent  hands  on  themselves, 
or  surrender  at  discretion.1  By  the  treaty  which 
was  ratified  by  the  Maroon  chiefs,  the  Trelawney 
Town  Maroons  were  to  have  fifteen  hundred  acres 
of  land,  and  the  other  bands,  of  Accompong  Town, 
Crawford  Town,  and  Nanny  Town,  one  thousand 
acres  between  them,  which  the  Legislature  secured 
to  them  and  their  posterity  forever.  Their  land 
was  free  from  taxation,  and  they  were  allowed  to 
govern  themselves  without  interference  from  the 
whites.  The  Maroons  agreed,  on  their  part,  to 
deliver  up  any  runaway  slaves,  “and  in  case  Cap- 
tain Cudjoe,  or  any  of  his  people,  shall  do  any 


1 The  two  cuts  shown  in  this  chapter  are  reproduced  from  Bryan  Edwards’s 
History  of  the  Maroons,”  published  in  1808. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


171 

injury  to  any  white  person,  he  shall  submit,  or  de- 
liver up  such  offenders,  to  justice.” 

By  this  treaty  an  end  was  put  to  this  tedious  and 
ruinous  contest. 

The  clause  in  the  treaty  by  which  these  people 
were  compelled  to  reside  within  certain  boundaries 
in  the  interior  of  the  island,  apart  from  all  other 
negroes,  was  probably  founded  on  the  apprehension 
that  by  suffering  them  to  intermix  with  negroes  in 
slavery,  the  example  which  they  would  continually 
present  of  successful  hostility  might  prove  con- 
tagious, and  create  in  the  minds  of  the  slaves  an 
impatience  of  subordination,  and  a disposition  to 
revolt ; but  the  future  proved  that  it  was  a mistake. 
The  Maroons,  instead  of  being  established  into  sepa- 
rate tribes  or  communities  in  the  strongest  part  of 
the  country,  should  have  been  encouraged  by  all 
possible  means  to  frequent  the  towns,  and  to  intermix 
with  the  negroes  at  large.  All  distinction  between 
the  Maroons  and  the  free  blacks  would  have  been 
lost,  for  the  greater  number  would  have  prevailed 
over  the  lesser  ; whereas  the  policy  of  keeping  them 
a distinct  people  continually  inured  to  arms  intro- 
duced among  them  an  esprit  dc  corps,  and  conceal- 
ing from  them  the  powers  and  resources  of  the 
whites  taught  them  to  feel,  and  at  the  same  time 
to  overvalue,  their  own  relative  strength  and  im- 
portance. 

Over  fifty  years  elapsed  before  there  was  any 
serious  outbreak  again  of  the  Maroons.  In  the 
month  of  July,  1795,  two  Maroons  from  Trelawney 
Town,  having  been  caught  stealing  some  pigs,  were 


172 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


tried  by  a jury  at  Montego  Bay  and  found  guilty. 
They  were  sentenced  by  the  court  to  receive  thirty- 
nine  lashes  on  the  bare  back.  The  sentence  was 
executed  by  the  black  overseer  in  the  workhouse, 
whose  office  it  was  to  inflict  punishment  on  such 
occasions.  The  offenders  were  then  discharged, 
and  went  off  with  their  companions,  abusing  and 
insulting  every  white  person  they  met  on  the  road. 

On  their  return  to  Trelawney  Town,  and  giving 
an  account  of  what  had  passed,  there  was  an  im- 
mediate uprising  of  the  whole  body  of  Maroons. 
They  complained,  not  of  the  injustice  or  severity  of 
the  punishment  inflicted  on  their  companions,  but 
of  the  disgrace  which  had  been  put  upon  the 
whole  body  by  the  punishment  having  been  in- 
flicted by  the  black  overseer  in  the  workhouse,  and 
in  the  presence  of  fugitive  and  felon  negro  slaves, 
many  of  whom  they  had  themselves  apprehended. 
They  sent  a written  defiance  to  the  magistrates  of 
Montego  Bay,  declaring  their  intention  to  meet  the 
white  people  in  arms,  and  threatening  to  attack  the 
town  on  July  20.  They  concluded  by  demanding 
reparation  for  the  indignity  cast  upon  them  by  an 
addition  to  their  lands,  and  the  dismission  of  Cap- 
tain Craskell  and  the  appointment  of  Mr.  James 
their  former  ag;ent. 

<D 

The  Maroons  took  advantage  of  a very  favor- 
able opportunity  for  their  outbreak.  The  July 
fleet  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  ships  had  just  sailed 
for  England ; and  they  knew  that  very  few  British 
troops  remained  on  the  island,  except  the  Eighty- 
third  Regiment,  which  was  unders  orders  at  that 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


173 


very  moment  to  embark  for  San  Domingo,  and 
which  actually  sailed  under  convoy  of  the  Success 
frigate  before  news  reached  the  government  of  the 
uprising. 

The  Earl  of  Balcarrier,  who  was  then  governor, 
promptly  decided  to  overtake  the  transports  if 
possible.  A fast  sailing-boat  was  sent  from  the 
east  end  of  the  island  to  intercept  the  vessels  as 
they  were  beating  up  against  the  wind  and  current. 
They  were  met  off  the  northeast  end  of  Jamaica, 
and  orders  delivered  to  change  their  course  to 
Montego  Bay,  which  was  immediately  obeyed,  and 
it  is  probable  that  this  fortunate  event  saved  the 
island. 

The  Maroons  had  collected  great  quantities  of 
arms  and  ammunition ; their  emissaries  visi.ed  the 
plantations,  and  endeavored  to  prevail  on  the 
negro  slaves  to  join  them,  and  by  rising  in  a mass 
to  enable  them  to  exterminate  the  whites  at  one 
blow,  as  their  countrymen  were  doing  at  that  very 
time  in  San  Domingo.  The  sudden  and  unex- 
pected arrival  of  so  powerful  a re-enforcement  at 
this  critical  moment  had  a wonderful  effect  on  the 
negroes.  They  believed  Heaven  itself  had  de- 
clared in  favor  of  the  whites,  and  that  all  attempts 
at  resistance  would  be  unavailing  and  impious. 

The  Maroons  themselves  became  divided  in  their 
councils  ; many  of  the  old  and  experienced  among 
them,  even  in  Trelawney  Town,  recommended 
peace,  and  the  whole  of  the  Accompong  people  de- 
clared in  favor  of  the  whites.  The  violent  coun- 
cils of  the  younger  part  of  the  Trelawney  Maroons, 


174 


STARK  'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


however,  prevailed.  They  were  inflamed  with  a 
degree  of  savage  fury  against  the  whites  which  set 
at  naught  all  considerations  of  prudence  or  policy, 
and  they  decided  to  fight  the  Bucras. 

The  governor  issued  a proclamation  addressed 
to  the  Maroons  of  Trelawney  Town,  in  which  he 
said,  “ Martial  law  has  been  proclaimed.  Every 
pass  to  your  town  has  been  occupied  and  guarded 
by  militia  and  regular  forces.  You  are  surrounded 
by  thousands.  Look  at  Montego  Bay  and  you  will 
see  the  force  brought  against  you.  I have  issued 
a proclamation  offering  a reward  for  your  heads. 
That  terrible  edict  will  be  put  in  force  if  every 
Maroon  of  Trelawney  Town  capable  of  bearing 
arms  does  not  appear  before  me  at  Montego  Bay 
Aug.  12,  and  there  submit  to  his  Majesty’s  mercy.” 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  12th,  orders  were  given 
to  Lieutenant-Colonel  Sandford  to  march  with  a 
detachment  of  the  Eighteenth  and  Twentieth  Dra- 
goons and  a party  of  horse  militia,  and  take  pos- 
session of  their  stronghold.  The  Maroons  retreated 
before  them,  and  drew  the  whites  into  an  ambus- 
cade, in  a narrow  pass  about  half-way  between  the 
new  and  old  town.  The  regulars  were  marching 
in  front,  the  militia  in  the  centre,  and  the  volunteers 
in  the  rear,  when  a heavy  fire  commenced  from 
the  bushes.  Colonel  Sandford  was  among  the  first 
that  fell,  and  with  him  Quartermaster  McBride 
and  six  privates  of  the  Twentieth  and  eight  of  the 
Eighteenth  Light  Dragoons.  Colonel  Gallimore, 
the  commanding  officer,  and  eight  of  the  volunteers 
were  also  killed,  and  many  wounded  of  all  descrip- 
tions. 


Surrender  of  the  Maroons. 


176 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


The  troops  pushed  forward,  and  drove  the  Ma- 
roons from  their  hiding-places ; and  after  a night 
of  great  suffering  and  hardship,  the  survivors  re- 
treated in  the  morning,  and  carried  with  them  most 
of  their  wounded.  Thus  terminated  this  disastrous 
and  sanguinary  encounter,  in  which  it  was  not 
known  that  a single  Maroon  lost  his  life.  Their 
triumph,  therefore,  was  great;  and  the  best  in- 
formed among  the  planters,  in  consequence  of  it, 
anticipated  the  most  dreadful  calamities.  In  their 
imagination  they  beheld  all  the  horrors  of  San 
Domingo,  — their  houses  and  plantations  in  flames, 
and  their  wives  and  children  massacred  by  their 
former  slaves.  Fortunately  the  negroes,  on  whom 
the  Maroons  relied  for  support,  remained  peace- 
able, and  faithful  to  their  masters. 

The  Maroons  retreated  into  the  Cockpit  Country, 
the  most  inaccessible  part  of  the  island.  This 
valley  is  surrounded  by  steep  precipices  and  broken 
rocks  and  mountains  of  great  height.  In  the  cav- 
erns  they  secreted  their  women  and  children  and 
ammunition.  From  this  retreat,  almost  inacces- 
sible to  all  but  themselves,  they  sent  out  small 
parties  of  their  most  able  and  enterprising  young 
men,  who  prowled  about  the  country,  robbing, 
burning,  and  murdering  the  whites.  When  any 
whites  fell  into  their  hands  they  killed  all  without 
any  distinction  of  sex  or  age.  Even  women  in 
childbed  and  infants  at  the  breast  were  slaugh- 
tered indiscriminately. 

Colonel  Fitch,  who  succeeded  Colonel  Sandford, 
perished  with  a number  of  his  men  in  the  same 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 77 


manner ; and  when  his  remains  were  recovered, 
several  days  afterwards,  it  was  found  that  his  head 
had  been  severed  from  his  body,  and  placed  in  ihe 
officer's  own  bowels.  Thus  the  war  continued  with 
this  savage  and  merciless  enemy  without  any  sign 
of  abatement,  till  recourse  was  had  to  the  measures 
so  successfully  employed  against  the  same  enemy 
in  the  long  and  sanguinary  war  that  terminated  in 
the  treaty  of  1738.  The  Assembly  decided  to  send 
to  Cuba  for  a hundred  bloodhounds,  and  to  engage 
a number  of  Spanish  huntsmen  to  attend  and 
direct  their  operations.  They  arrived  at  Montego 
Bay  on  the  14th  of  December.  Such  extraordinary 
accounts  were  immediately  spread  by  the  negroes 
of  the  terrific  appearance  and  savage  nature  of  these 
animals,  as  to  make  an  impression  on  the  Maroons 
that  was  equally  surprising  and  unexpected.  The 
Maroons  now  displayed  evidences  of  terror,  humil- 
iation, and  submission,  and  solicited  peace  with 
great  earnestness.  A large  party  of  them  sur- 
rendered on  condition  that  their  lives  should  be 
spared,  and  that  they  should  not  be  sent  off  the 
island. 

On  the  14th  of  January,  General  Walpole,  who 
succeeded  Colonel  Fitch  in  conducting  the  war, 
marched  against  the  Maroons  with  the  Spanish 
dogs.  The  effect  was  immediate.  The  troops 
had  marched  but  a short  way  into  the  woods  when 
the  enemy  sent  in  a supplication  for  mercy,  and 
surrendered  on  no  other  terms  than  a promise  of 
their  lives.  Not  a drop  of  blood  was  shed  after 
the  arrival  of  the  dogs  upon  the  island.  And  thus 


178 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


terminated  this  disastrous  and  cruel  war.  After 
such  a contest,  carried  on  in  such  a manner,  it  was 
thought  impossible  that  a cordial  reconciliation 
could  ever  again  exist  between  the  whites  and  the 
Maroons.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  trans- 
port from  the  island  all  the  Maroons  who  surren- 
dered after  the  first  of  January,  except  those  who 
by  their  repentance,  services,  and  good  behavior 
since  their  surrender  had  merited  protection  and 
favor ; such  were  permitted,  together  with  their 
wives  and  children,  to  remain  on  the  island. 

In  June,  1796,  H.  M.  S.  Dover,  with  two  trans- 
ports in  company,  having  on  board  six  hundred  of 
the  Trelawney  Maroons,  sailed  from  Bluefields  for 
Halifax,  N.S.  Commissioners  accompanied  them 
with  instructions  to  purchase  lands  in  Nova  Scotia 
or  Lower  Canada,  and  to  provide  them  with  the 
means  of  subsistence  until  they  became  accustomed 
to  the  country  and  climate,  and  they  could  be  self- 
supporting.  The  sum  of  £25,000  was  allowed  by 
the  Assembly  for  this  purpose.  On  their  arrival  at 
Halifax,  lands  were  purchased  for  them  in  the  town- 
ship of  Preston.  At  first  they  were  well  received 
by  the  government  and  the  people,  who  thought 
they  would  be  a valuable  acquisition  to  the  colony; 
but  these  views  were  soon  changed.  The  winter 
succeeding  their  arrival  was  unusually  severe. 
Their  firewood  was  soon  consumed,  their  potatoes 
were  frozen  in  their  cellars,  and  the  supplies  of 
Halifax  failing,  they  were  in  danger  of  suffering 
from  hunger.  Though  relieved  by  a liberal  dona- 
tion  from  the  public  stores,  they  became  dissatisfied, 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


179 


and  demanded  of  the  governor  to  be  removed  to  a 
warmer  climate. 

The  white  inhabitants  also  became  discontented 
with  them.  They  feared  they  would  become  an 
incumbrance  to  the  Province.  The  Maroons  re- 
fused to  work  or  to  attend  Christian  worship.  They 
retained  the  custom  of  a plurality  of  wives  bound 
only  by  consent,  and  refused  to  perform  either  the 
marriage  or  funeral  ceremonies.  When  a Maroon 
died  he  was  buried  according  to  the  African  customs. 
The  governor,  too,  began  to  be  weary  of  his  charge, 
and  to  repent  the  encouragement  he  had  given  to 
their  coming  to  Nova  Scotia. 

It  was  resolved  to  transport  them  once  more,  to 
Sierra  Leone,  the  new  British  colony  for  enfran- 
chised slaves  in  Africa.  Thither  they  were  accord- 
ingly  sent  by  an  agreement  with  the  Sierra  Leone 
Company  in  London.  They  embarked  at  Halifax 
in  August,  1800,  and  arrived  at  Sierra  Leone  in 
October.  Thus  ended  the  absurd  plan  of  settling 
negroes  in  a cold  climate,  after  an  expenditure  of 
£46,000  on  the  part  of  the  island  of  Jamaica,  and 
a great  outlay  on  the  part  of  the  British  Govern- 
ment. Notwithstanding  the  length  of  time  that  has 
elapsed  since  their  deportation  to  Sierra  Leone, 
their  descendants  look  back  with  pride  to  the  time 
when  they  were  able  to  contend  with  the  white 
man.  It  is  also  a common  term  of  reproach  against 
them  that  they  were  subdued  by  dogs. 


i So 


STATIC'S  ILLUSTRATED 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

INHABITANTS  AND  GOVERNMENT. 

When  Columbus  discovered  Jamaica  it  was  in- 
habited by  a gentle  and  peaceful  race  of  Indians 
belonging  to  the  Arawak  tribe,  which  still  inhabits 
British  Guiana.  This  race  of  Indians  also  inhab- 
ited Cuba,  Hayti,  Porto  Rico,  and  the  Bahama 
Islands.  The  Lesser  Antilles,  extending  from  St. 
Thomas  to  Trinidad,  were  inhabited  by  a race  of 
Indians  of  entirely  different  characteristics.  They, 
too,  originated  in  South  America,  and  still  inhabit 
the  country  to  the  southeast  of  the  Orinoco  River. 
They  were  named  by  Columbus  Caribs,  meaning 
cannibals.  For  hundreds  of  years  they  success- 
fully resisted  all  attempts  at  invasion.  Inch  by 
inch  and  foot  by  foot  the  Caribs  struggled  for  lib- 
erty in  their  mad  fight  for  existence.  It  is  to  the 
prowess  of  their  ancestors  that  the  Caribs  are  to  be 
found  at  the  present  time  on  the  islands  of  Domi- 
nica and  St.  Vincent,  while  not  a vestige  remains 
of  the  more  numerous  but  peaceful  Arawaks  that 
inhabited  the  Greater  Antilles.  The  aboriginal  in- 
habitants of  Jamaica  had  a fixed  form  of  govern- 
ment, simple,  patriarchal,  and  dignified.  They 
believed  in  a future  state  of  existence,  and  had  cer- 
tain quaint  ideas  about  a creation  of  the  world  and 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


1 8 1 


a tradition  o^  a deluge,  but  had  an  unusually  small 
element  of  superstition  in  their  religion.  They  were 
kind  to  each  other  and  hospitable  to  strangers ; and 
it  can  be  truly  said  that  the  world  would  have  been 
none  the  worse  for  the  survival  of  this  race,  and  for 
the  extermination  of  some  other  race  less  creditable 
to  humanity. 

Fifty  years  after  the  discovery  of  Jamaica  every 
Indian  inhabitant  had  disappeared.  Under  the  rule 
of  Esquimel  and  his  successor  of  the  same  name,  Pe- 
dro de  Esquimel,  they  were  swept  away.  Scarcely 
a record  exists  of  the  process  whereby  their  destruc- 
tion was  effected ; but  the  terribly  significant  com- 
ment of  Las  Casas  on  Pedro,  that  he  was  one  of  the 
most  cruel  of  those  sent  to  afflict  the  Indians,  leaves 
no  doubt  as  to  the  nature  of  the  awful  deeds  by 
which  their  annihilation  was  accomplished.  Soon 
after  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards  the  natives  began 
to  feel  the  galling  burdens  of  servitude.  They 
abandoned  their  habitations,  and  retired  to  the  moun- 
tains, and  took  refuge  in  the  most  sterile  and  dreary 
heights,  flying  from  one  wild  retreat  to  another,  the 
women  with  their  children  in  their  arms  or  at  their 
backs,  worn  out  with  fatigue  and  hunger,  and  har- 
assed by  perpetual  alarms.  In  every  noise  of  the 
forest  or  the  mountains  they  fancied  they  heard  the 
sound  of  bloodhounds  leading  on  their  pursuers. 
They  hid  themselves  in  damp  and  dismal  caverns, 
or  on  the  rocky  banks  and  margins  of  the  torrent ; 
and  not  daring  to  hunt  or  fish,  or  even  to  venture  in 
quest  of  nourishing  roots  and  vegetables,  they  had 
to  satisfy  their  hunger  with  unwholesome  food.  In 


182 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


this  way  many  thousands  of  them  perished.  This 
effort  to  disencumber  themselves  of  the  Spanish 
ended  in  convincing  them  that  the  yoke  of  the  in- 
vaders was  irremovably  fastened  upon  them.  The 
survivors  returned  in  despair  to  their  villages,  sub- 
mitted to  the  fate  they  could  not  escape,  and  re- 
signed themselves  to  servitude,  — the  repartimientos 
or  allotment  system,  which  distributed  the  Indians 
among  the  settlers,  who  used  them,  says  Herrera, 
“in  planting  cotton  and  raising  other  commodities, 
which  yielded  great  profit.”  When  the  Spaniards 
discovered  Jamaica  it  is  said  to  have  contained  an 
Indian  population  of  sixty  thousand,  all  of  whom 
were  cut  off  and  exterminated  a century  before  the 
English  conquered  the  island  ; yet  the  Spanish  set- 
tlers had  no  sooner  worked  the  natives  to  death, 
than  they  had  recourse  to  the  importation  of  slaves 
from  Africa  to  fill  their  places.  We  are  informed 
that  the  number  of  negroes  on  the  island  at  the  time 
of  its  capture  nearly  equalled  that  of  the  whites,  — 
about  fifteen  hundred.  When  the  Spaniards  were 
driven  from  the  island,  they  armed  their  slaves,  and 
advised  them  to  shift  for  themselves  and  fight  the 
English.  This  they  were  not  slow  in  doing;  and 
being  probably  of  a mixed  Indian  and  African  blood, 
they  were  fierce  and  warlike.  They  took  to  the 
mountain  fastnesses,  and  murdered  and  plundered 
the  settlers.  They  were  known  as  the  Maroons,  and 
were  a thorn  in  the  side  of  the  whites  for  upwards 
of  a century  and  a half,  as  is  fully  described  in  the 
chapter  on  the  Maroons. 

The  year  following  the  conquest  of  Jamaica 


For  n 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


183 

(1656),  Colonel  William  Brayne  arrived  with  1,000 
troops,  and  was  followed  shortly  after  by  1,500  set- 
tlers from  New  England,  Bermuda,  Barbados,  and 
Nevis.  Cromwell  also  sent  from  Ireland  1,000  girls 
and  as  many  young  men.  In  1660  the  first  attempt 
was  made  at  numbering  the  people.  “The  relics  of 
the  army  were  put  down  at  2,200,  and  the  planters, 
merchants,  and  others  at  probably  as  many  more.” 
Evidently  the  population  during  these  four  years 
had  decreased,  notwithstanding  the  constant  arrival 
of  fresh  importations.  It  soon  became  evident  that 
while  the  English  and  Irish  settlers  could  carry  on 
agricultural  pursuits  in  the  cool,  bracing  mountain 
districts,  they  were  incapable  of  hard  manual  labor 
in  the  cane-growing  districts  in  the  low  lands. 
Hence  it  became  necessary  to  introduce  a class  of 
labor  that  could  work  in  the  fields  under  a tropical 
sun.  The  traffic  in  slaves  and  the  system  of  slavery 
increased  step  by  step  with  the  introduction  of  sugar 
cultivation.  Between  the  years  1700  and  1786  no 
less  than  610,000  slaves  were  landed  in  Jamaica, 
of  whom  160,000  were  re-exported  to  other  parts  of 
the  West  Indies  or  to  America.  Thus  more  than 
5,000  were  added  every  year  to  the  existing  num- 
ber. The  reason  for  this  large  and  constant  in- 
crease  was  partly  that  the  amount  of  land  under 
cultivation  was  greatly  extended,  and  due  to  the 
hard  labor  and  harsh  treatment  which  retarded  the 
natural  increase  of  population,  and  to  the  fact  that 
the  number  of  male  slaves  imported  was  much  in 
excess  of  the  number  of  female.  In  1807  a law 
was  passed  by  the  British  Government  abolishing 


184 


STARK  'S  ILLUSTRA  TED 


the  trade  in  slaves  from  the  1st  of  March,  1808. 
This  was  followed  by  the  Imperial  Parliament  pass- 
ing the  Emancipation  Act  in  May,  1833,  when  it 
was  enacted  that  on  and  after  the  1st  of  August, 
1834,  slaves  should  be  free  throughout  the  Brit- 
ish dominions.  A compensation  of  £20,000,000 
was  granted  to  the  slave-holders,  the  grandest  and 
noblest  act  done  by  any  nation  in  the  history  of 
the  world.  The  Jamaica  slave-owners  were  paid 
£5,853,975  in  consideration  of  the  manumission  of 
255,290  slaves,  while  55,780,  consisting  of  children, 
old  people,  and  runaways,  were  excluded  from  the 
compensation. 

The  Imperial  Act  was  bitterly  opposed  by  the 
Island  Assembly,  who  threatened  to  transfer  their 
allegiance  to  the  United  States,  or  to  assert  their 
independence  after  the  manner  of  their  continental 
neighbor.  Allowance  must  be  made  for  the  gentle- 
men  who  constituted  the  Assembly,  who  foresaw  in 
emancipation  nothing  but  ruin  and  disaster,  both  to 
themselves  and  to  the  colony  at  large.  This  unfor- 
tunately proved  to  be  the  case  in  all  the  British 
Colonies  except  Barbados.  In  that  island  all  the 
land  was  under  cultivation.  There  was  not  any 
wild  land  to  squat  on.  The  negro  had  to  work  or 
starve.  The  largest  amount  of  sugar  ever  raised 
in  Barbados  in  any  year  previously  to  the  freeing 
of  the  slaves  was  32,500  hogsheads  of  sugar  and 
9,305  puncheons  of  molasses  ; in  1889  the  product 
was  65,268  hogsheads  of  sugar  and  44,8x8  punch- 
eons of  molasses.  Demerara  and  Trinidad  are  the 
onlv  other  colonies  that  have  regained  their  former 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


135 


prestige  ; and  this  was  brought  about  by  substituting 
East  Indian,  Chinese,  and  Portuguese  labor  in  place 
of  the  negro,  who  refused  to  work  when  free.  These 
people  have  shown  a great  desire  to  work  hard,  save 
money,  and  with  their  savings  become  shopkeepers, 
in  which  many  of  them  have  amassed  considerable 
fortunes,  and  ultimately  become  merchants  and  own- 
ers of  vessels  ; while  the  indolent  negro  looks  on  in 
wonder  at  the  rapid  strides  and  comforts  of  life  en- 
joyed by  strangers  who  have  been  only  a few  years 
among  them,  and  who  commenced  life  under  far 
less  advantageous  circumstances. 

Idleness  is  the  curse  of  the  negro.  The  men,  as 
a rule,  never  work  unless  necessity  compels  them 
to  do  so ; and  the  women  and  children  do  all  the 
drudgery.  Of  the  sloth  of  the  negro  there  is  un- 
fortunately but  too  abundant  evidence  in  the  deso- 
lation of  whole  districts  containing  the  richest  lands, 
and  in  abandoned  estates  with  their  costly  works 
in  ruins,  and  not  a sign  of  human  industry  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach.  Nowhere  else  on  the  island 
is  this  more  apparent  than  in  the  parish  of  Port- 
land. Port  Antonio  had  been  abandoned  by  the 
whites,  the  great  sugar  estates  were  rapidly  being 
overgrown  by  tire  forests,  the  negroes  had  no  em- 
ployment, and  were  relapsing  into  a savage  state 
like  that  of  their  ancestors.  Then  the  Boston  Fruit 
Company  came  upon  the  scene,  and  soon  restored 
a large  portion  of  the  country  to  its  former  pros- 
perity. The  principal  drawback  and  difficulty  was 
with  the  negro, — how  to  make  him  work.  The 
company  paid  him  more  than  twice  as  much  as  the 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


1 86 

Barbadian  negro  received,  and  offered  him  steady 
employment;  but  money  was  no  object  to  him. 
He  could  obtain  all  the  food  he  wanted  without 
work,  and  would  work  only  when  he  felt  like  it. 
The  company  did  the  same  as  the  Trinidad  and 
Demerara  planters,  — they  sent  to  India  for  coolies  ; 
and  it  is  only  by  using  the  coolie  as  a check  on  the 
negro  that  any  work  can  be  got  out  of  the  latter. 

When  the  negro  was  freed  he  was  encouraged  to 
look  upon  liberty  as  license  ; and  fifty  years  of  such 
teaching  has  vastly  prejudiced  his  advance  in  civ- 
ilization, and  at  the  same  time  ruined  his  country. 
The  great  mistake  made  both  in  the  British  West 
Indies  and  the  United  States  was  the  granting  un- 
limited freedom  and  equality  to  the  negro  before 
he  was  taught  to  understand  the  responsibilities 
attached  to  such  privileges.  It  has  been  demon- 
strated in  the  United  States  that  it  is  impossible  for 
the  negro  to  exist  in  a community  of  Anglo-Saxons 
on  terms  of  political  and  social  equality.  The 
greatest  problem  to-day  in  that  country  is  what  is 
to  be  the  future  of  the  negro  race  in  the  Southern 
States. 

The  population  of  Jamaica,  according  to  the  cen- 
sus of  1891,  was  639,491,  an  increase  of  56,681 
since  1881,  and  133,337  excess  of  the  popula- 
tion of  1871.  The  population  as  to  races  was 
divided  as  follows  : whites  14,692,  colored  121,955, 
black  488,624,  East  Indian  10,116,  Chinese  481, 
not  stated  3,623.  It  is  considered  that  many  that 
were  registered  as  white  contained  more  or  less 
colored  blood,  and  that  it  can  be  safely  said  that 


Stewarts  Town. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


187 


there  is  scarcely  more  than  one  per  cent  of  the 
present  population  of  Jamaica  that  is  pure  white. 
This  shows  a surprising  increase  in  the  black  and 
colored  population  during  the  past  hundred  years, 
and  a corresponding  decrease  in  the  whites.  In 
1791  the  whites  numbered  30,000,  and  the  negroes 
and  colored  261,400.  Therefore  at  that  time  there 
was  one  white  to  every  nine  black  and  colored, 
and  now  there  is  one  white  to  every  one  hundred. 
In  1673  the  whites  numbered  7,768,  and  the  ne- 
groes 9,504. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing  that  there  has 
been  a constant  decrease  of  the  white  population 
in  comparison  with  the  negro  during  the  past  two 
hundred  years.  The  same  can  be  said  of  all  the 
British  West  India  islands,  and  also  of  some  of  the 
Southern  States,  where  the  negroes  are  increasing 
much  faster  than  the  whites,  some  States  growing 
blacker  every  year  and  some  whiter,  it  depending 
on  the  climatic  conditions  of  same.  It  has  been 
clearly  proved  during  the  past  four  hundred  years, 
since  the  discovery  of  America,  that  the  tropical 
section  of  it,  within  the  Gulf  States  on  the  north 
and  the  Argentine  Republic  on  the  south,  is  not  a 
white  man’s  country,  and  never  will  be.  He  can 
exist  there  only  as  master.  Every  attempt  made 
by  white  colonists  to  settle  the  country  and  employ 
white  labor  has  failed.  The  white  man  cannot  do 
field-labor  in  the  tropics  and  live,  especially  the 
Anglo-Saxon  branch  of  the  Caucasian  race.  The 
Latin  races  do  best,  especially  the  Portuguese. 
From  the  foregoing  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  the 


1 88 


STARK ’S  ILLUSTRATED 


whites  cannot  live  within  the  tropics  and  reach  an 
advanced  age.  There  are  as  fine  specimens  of  the 
Anglo-Saxon  race  to  be  found  in  the  British  West 
Indies  as  are  to  be  seen  in  England,  and  they  live 
to  as  old  an  age  ; but  they  and  their  ancestors  have 
been  masters  ; laborious  field-work  has  not  been 
their  lot ; it  has  been  done  for  them  by  the  negroes. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  most  miserable  and  degen- 
erated specimens  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  to  be 
found  in  the  world  are  the  Crackers  of  the  South- 
ern States  and  the  Redlegs  of  Barbados,  descen- 
dants of  the  white  laborers  sent  to  those  colonies 
some  two  hundred  years  ago.  The  English  in 
Jamaica,  as  well  as  the  other  British  West  India 
islands,  are  melting  away.  Families  who  have 
been  for  generations  on  the  soil  are  selling  their  es- 
tates and  are  going  off,  some  to  England,  and  more 
to  the  United  States.  This  has  been  going  on  for 
generations.  Many  places  in  the  United  States 
were  named  Jamaica  by  these  emigrants,  such  as 
Jamaica  on  Long  Island,  and  Jamaica  Plain  in 
Boston. 

In  the  tropics  the  white  man  labors  under  so  many 
disadvantages  from  the  climate  that  he  can  only 
exist  there  in  the  position  of  master.  Even  then 
he  must  recruit  his  family  by  constant  infusion  of 
new  blood  from  home  or  else  doom  it  to  extinction. 
The  negro,  on  the  contrary,  suffers  from  no  climatic 
disadvantages.  He  can  perform  field  and  other 
heavy  work  without  suffering  in  health,  and  he  does 
not  require  an  infusion  of  fresh  blood  to  make  him 
thrive  and  multiply.  The  two  races  are  thus  placed 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


189 

in  a position  which  gives  a preponderating  advan- 
tage to  the  negro.  The  only  advantage  in  the  white 
man’s  favor  is  his  intellect. 

It  is  a great  mistake  for  the  people  in  England  or 
the  United  States  to  think  that  the  negro  and  white 
can  ever  mix.  The  two  races  cannot  intermarry 
without  harm  to  both.  The  half-breeds  cease  to  be 
prolific,  and  they  become  prolific  only  in  the  event 
of  their  marrying  blacker  or  whiter.  The  tendency 
throughout  animate  and  inanimate  nature  is  always 
to  revert  back  to  the  original  stock,  if  nature  is 
allowed  to  take  its  own  course. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  the  negro  has  multiplied 
with  great  rapidity  when  he  has  been  protected  un- 
der English  rule.  He  cannot  quarrel  and  wage  war 
as  he  was  wont  to  do  in  Africa  or  Hayti,  and  when 
famine  arises  the  government  feeds  him  ; even  dis- 
ease is  not  allowed  to  sweep  him  away  as  formerly. 

Any  account  of  the  negroes  of  Jamaica  would  be 
incomplete  without  allusion  to  the  practice  of  obeah, 
or  voodooism,  among  them.  This  is  a relic  of  sav- 
agerv,  being  a species  of  fetish  worship  practised 
by  the  negroes  throughout  the  West  Indies  and 
America,  which  neither  the  efforts  of  the  govern- 
ment, which  strictly  forbids  its  practice,  nor  the  in- 
fluence of  the  church,  which  has  labored  faithfully 
against  it,  have  been  able  to  keep  in  check.  It  is 
only  a few  years  since  that  negroes  were  caught 
practising  it  in  Boston,  the  centre  of  civilization  on 
the  western  continent. 

The  obeah-man  is  usually  an  old  and  crafty 
negro,  whose  forbidding  aspect  and  hoary  head, 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


190 

together  with  skill  in  plants  of  the  medical  and 
poisonous  species,  have  qualified  him  for  success- 
ful imposition  on  the  weak  and  credulous.  The 
negroes  in  general  revere,  consult,  and  fear  them. 
To  these  oracles  they  resort  with  the  most  implicit 
faith  upon  all  occasions,  whether  for  the  cure  of 
disorders,  the  obtaining  of  revenge  for  injuries 
or  insults,  or  the  prediction  of  future  events.  The 
deluded  negroes  who  thoroughly  believe  in  their 
supernatural  powers  become  willing  accomplices 
in  concealing;  them  from  the  knowledge  and  dis- 
covery  of  the  white  people ; the  stoutest  among 
them  tremble  at  the  very  sight  of  the  ragged 
bundle,  the  coffin,  or  the  bottle,  which  are  stuck 
in  the  thatch,  hung  over  the  door,  or  placed  on 
the  doorstep,  containing  parrots’  feathers,  blood, 
grave-yard  dirt,  coffin-nails,  egg-shells,  etc. 

When  the  negro  goes  out  in  the  morning  and 
finds  Obi  set  for  him , near  his  door  or  in  the  path 
which  leads  to  it,  he  gives  himself  up  for  lost  ; his 
terrible  imagination  begins  to  work,  and  he  believes 
himself  the  devoted  victim  of  an  invisible  and  irre- 
sistible agency.  Sleep,  appetite,  and  cheerfulness 
forsake  him,  his  strength  decays,  his  disturbed  im- 
agination is  haunted  without  respite,  and  gradually 
he  sinks  into  the  grave.  Cases  occurred  during 
slavery  times  when  plantations  were  almost  depop- 
ulated by  the  obeah-man,  and  so  cruel  and  horrible 
were  some  of  its  rites  that  the  obeah-men  were 
hanged  if  caught.  At  present  flogging  is  the  pun- 
ishment prescribed  for  them.  The  cannibalism  of 
Hayti,  of  which  we  hear  occasional  reports,  is  in 


NEWLY  ARRIVED  COOLIES. 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


191 


connection  with  obeah,  the  victim  being  sacrificed 
to  their  deity  or  spirit. 

In  view  of  these  facts,  we  may  well  wonder 
whether  the  negro  race  is  really  capable  of  any 
great  enlightenment.  The  elements  of  barbarism 
firmly  fixed  in  the  negro  nature  by  ages  of  usage 
in  his  native  Africa  are  not  easily  got  rid  of,  and 
civilization  in  its  true  sense  is  not  a thing  to  be 
attained  at  a bound.  It  is  worthy  of  remark  that 
while  the  negroes  sometimes  attain  education,  posi- 
tion, and  wealth,  they  are  not  so  apt  to  do  so 
as  those  of  mixed  blood.  It  is  the  blood  of  the 
Caucasian  which  gives  brains,  ambition,  and  the 
instincts  of  civilization. 

In  1840  a plan  for  the  introduction  of  coolie 
labor  was  carried  into  effect.  Twenty  thousand 
East  Indians  were  thus  added  to  the  working  pop- 
ulation of  the  island.  It  was  expected  that  the 
coolie  would  stand  between  the  planter  and  the  in- 
convenience and  loss  which  he  experienced  from 
the  intermittent  industry  of  the  negro.  The  Indian 
was  a check  upon  that  spirit  of  independence 
which,  however  commendable  in  theory,  has  some- 
times been  a bane  practically.  The  introduction  of 
the  coolie,  like  other  acts  immediately  following  the 
abolition  of  African  slavery,  was  simply  an  expe- 
dient, a bridge  by  which  the  governing  class  tried 
to  cross  that  slough  of  despond  by  which  Jamaican 
industries  were  surrounded.  It  has  proved  to  have 
been  an  act  of  statesmanship,  having  resulted  in  the 
permanent  accomplishment  of  several  of  the  results 
sought  for.  These  people,  with  their  straight  black 


STARK 'S  ILLUSTRATED 


192 

hair,  clean-cut  features,  and  lithe,  slender  figures, 
are  a striking  contrast  to  the  negroes,  whom  they 
heartily  despise,  and  with  whom  they  persistently 
decline  to  unite  in  marriage.  Many  of  the  men 
are  good  looking,  and  some  of  the  children  and 
girls  are  decidedly  pretty. 

They  are  an  industrious  people ; their  principal 
aim  and  object  being  to  advance  in  the  world  and 
accumulate  property,  the  very  reverse  of  the  negro 
in  this  respect,  as  in  all  others.  Though  not  so 
strong  physically  as  the  negro,  they  do  more  work, 
are  more  reliable,  and  give  such  satisfaction  as  ser- 
vants and  laborers  that  fresh  importations  are  con- 
stantly being  made.  As  there  are  not  so  many 
women  brought  with  them  from  India  as  formerly, 
the  women  are  occasionallv  tempted  into  infidelities, 
which  would  oftener  occur  if  the  lapse  from  virtue 
was  not  so  fearfully  avenged ; for  the  East  Indian 
will,  with  one  sweep  of  his  machete,  behead  his 
wife  if  she  proves  unfaithful  to  him.  Such  a case 
as  this  is  unknown  among  the  negro  population,  as 
very  few  of  them  are  bound  by  the  marriage  tie  ; in 
fact,  the  negro  woman  does  not  care  to  be  married, 
for  in  that  case  the  husband  obliges  her  to  work  for 
him  while  he  remains  in  idleness ; but  if  she  is  not 
married,  then  he  has  to  work  to  support  the  family, 
and  treat  her  kindly,  or  she  will  leave  him.  This 
is  shown  by  the  statistics,  about  seventy-five  per 
cent  of  the  births  in  the  colon}r  being  illegitimate. 

They  are  many  of  them  skilled  artisans,  arid  the 
visitor  may  see  the  necklace  or  other  ornament 
fashioned  from  the  handful  of  silver  pieces  he  fur- 


COOLIE  BELLE, 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


193 


nishes  for  the  purpose  while  he  waits.  Intellec- 
tually it  is  unnecessary  to  say  where  the  coolie 
stands  in  comparison  to  the  negro.  He  belongs  to 
the  Aryan  race  the  same  as  the  white  man.  His 
civilization  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  world,  and 
though  of  a lower  caste  in  that  race,  yet  is  far 
above  the  African  in  development.  It  is  amusing 
to  notice  that  the  negro  looks  down  on  the  coolie 
as  upon  an  inferior.  A visit  to  a coolie  settlement 
is  very  interesting;  here  the  habits  of  the  natives 
of  India  may  be  studied  as  well  as  on  the  banks  of 
the  Ganges  or  Indus.  They  keep  the  distinctions  as 
regards  caste,  and  the  costumes  for  age  and  rank, 
that  obtain  in  Calcutta.  The  coolie  woman  is  seen 
gorgeously  apparelled,  her  small  head  decorated 
with  a gaudy  handkerchief  and  ornaments  of  sil- 
ver, her  lithe  body  wrapped  in  party-colored  gar- 
ments, broad  bracelets  of  silver  and  anklets  of  the 
same  upon  her  bare  arms  and  brown  ankles.  In 
the  main,  the  laboring  classes  of  Jamaica  are  law- 
abiding  and  submissive.  The  colonial  government 
recognizes  the  necessity  of  keeping  all  these  diverse 
elements  in  absolute  subjection,  and  its  strong  arm 
is  felt  throughout  the  island.  Every  country  village 
has  its  constabulary ; and  the  uniformed  policemen 
are  seen  in  the  rural  districts  as  in  the  cities  and 
towns,  and  in  spite  of  the  vast  number  of  semi- 
civilized  inhabitants,  life  and  property  are  as  safe 
in  Jamaica  as  in  England  or  the  United  States  ; in 
fact,  this  can  be  said  of  any  place  over  which  the 
Union  Jack  waves. 


194 


ST  A RK  'S  ILL  USTRA  TED 


GOVERNMENT. 

After  the  abolition  of  slavery,  there  arose  a series 
of  political  disputes  and  disagreements  between  the 
Executive  and  the  Legislature,  accompanied  with 
a bitterness  which  could  not  fail  to  have  a disas- 
trous result.  This  culminated  in  the  rebellion  of 
1865,  and  brought  to  a close  a representative  insti- 
tution which  had  existed  for  two  hundred  and  two 
years,  and  which  exercised  powers  in  some  re- 
spects in  excess  of  those  of  the  British  House  of 
Commons  itself.  Mr.  George  William  Gordon  was 
born  a slave,  and,  the  son  of  his  master,  had  become 
a man  of  mark  in  Jamaica,  had  acquired  property, 
and  lived  in  a beautiful  residence,  — Cherry  Gar- 
den ; he  was  actively  engaged  in  politics,  was  an 
elected  member  of  the  Legislature,  and  led  the 
opposition  to  the  government.  By  virtue  of  his 
possessions  he  belonged  to  a class  usually  conser- 
vative, but  was  considered  by  the  whites  to  be  an 
agitator. 

In  1865,  while  Mr.  Edward  John  Eyre  was 
governor,  the  storm  which  had  long  been  gather- 
ing burst  upon  the  island.  A severe  drought  had 
greatly  impoverished  the  people,  while  the  Ameri- 
can Civil  War  had  greatly  increased  the  price  of 
imported  breadstuff's.  Gordon  and  other  agitators 
availed  themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  unsettle 
and  excite  the  minds  of  the  ignorant.  Gordon 
presided  at  a public  meeting  at  which  seditious 
speeches  were  made,  inciting  and  urging  the  people 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


195 


of  African  descent  to  assert  themselves,  and  form 
themselves  into  societies,  hold  public  meetings,  and 
set  forth  their  grievances. 

Whatever  the  purpose  of  Gordon  and  his  party 
might  have  been,  it  was  soon  lost  sight  of  in  the 
disastrous  and  unlooked-for  result.  The  people  to 
whom  he  appealed,  being  ignorant,  knew  nothing 
of  argument  or  appeals,  or  the  niceties  of  legal 
redress.  They  were  abundantly  gifted  with  savage 
passions,  and  they  were  proficient  in  the  use  of  the 
machete.  There  were  certain  individuals  whom 
they  greatly  hated,  and  a class  whose  interests 
were  all  opposed  to  their  own.  They  would  ap- 
peal to  the  machete.  That  seemed  reasonable  to 
them. 

On  the  nth  of  October  the  custos  and  vestry  of 
the  Parish  of  St.  Thomas  met  at  the  Court  House 
at  Morant  Bay,  where  they  were  attended  by  a 
protecting  body  of  volunteers.  Some  hundreds  of 
negroes,  armed  with  machetes,  bayonets,  sticks,  and 
muskets,  entered  the  square  in  front  of  the  Court 
House  and  declared  for  “ war.”  They  were  all 
black,  and  the  cry  was  “ color  for  color,  blood  for 
blood.’’  They  attacked  the  custos  and  magistrates 
while  they  were  holding  their  meeting  for  the  trans- 
action of  business ; it  resulted  in  the  murder  of 
nearly  all  the  vestry,  the  slaughter  of  all  the  officers 
and  nearly  all  the  private  men  of  the  volunteer 
command,  and  the  perpetuation  of  the  most  atrocious 
barbarities  by  the  negroes.  The  fight  was  one  of 
almost  unexampled  ferocity  and  horror.  The  pil- 
lage, arson,  and  bloodshed  which  followed  it  filled 


196 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


the  island  with  terror.  The  terrible  massacre  of 
the  total  white  population  of  Hayti  is  ever  present 
in  the  minds  of  the  whites  of  Jamaica  as  a frightful 
evidence  of  what  the  negroes  are  capable  of  when 
roused  to  frenzy.  The  French  planters  had  done 
nothing  particularly  cruel  to  deserve  their  animosity, 
and  were  as  well  regarded  by  their  slaves  as  ever 
the  whites  had  been  in  the  English  islands.  Yet 
in  a fever  of  political  excitement,  and  as  a reward 
for  the  decree  of  the  Paris  Revolutionary  Govern- 
ment which  declared  them  free,  they  allowed  their 
liberty,  which  was  to  have  elevated  them  to  the 
white  man’s  level,  to  turn  them  into  devils,  and  to 
massacre  every  white  man,  woman,  and  child  on 
the  island,  and  afterwards  the  colored  population. 
This  feeling  must  be  taken  into  consideration  in 
considering  the  events  that  followed  the  outbreak, 
and  the  terrible  vengeance  wreaked  by  the  whites  on 
the  negroes.  When  Governor  Eyre  was  informed 
of  the  massacre  he  took  prompt  measures  to  sup- 
press the  rebellion.  He  declared  the  district  where 
the  outbreak  occurred  under  martial  law ; all  the 
white  men  were  enrolled,  armed,  and  formed  into 
companies ; and  these  extemporized  regiments,  too 
few  in  number  to  be  merciful,  saw  safety  only  in 
striking  terror  into  the  negroes.  Their  houses  and 
huts  were  burned,  and,  aided  by  the  Maroons,  who 
joined  the  whites,  they  were  hunted  down.  Hun- 
dreds of  them  were  tried  by  drum-head  court-mar- 
tial, and  summarily  hanged  or  flogged. 

Governor  Eyre  had  Gordon  arrested  at  his  resi- 
dence, Cherry  Garden,  and  sent  him  into  the  dis- 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


19  7 


trict  which  was  under  martial  law,  tried  him  by 
military  court,  and  hanged  him. 

The  government  in  England  at  first  thanked 
their  representative  for  having  saved  the  island ; 
but  a clamor,  aroused  by  the  abolitionists,  caused 
them  to  send  out  a commission  to  examine  into  the 
cause  of  the  outbreak  and  the  means  used  to  sup- 
press it.  Their  report  was  as  follows  : — 

“ (1)  That  punishments  inflicted  by  martial  law 
were  excessive;  (2)  that  the  punishment  of  death 
was  unnecessarily  frequent ; (3)  that  the  floggings 
were  reckless  and  at  Bath  positively  barbarous ; 
(4)  that  the  burning  of  one  thousand  houses  was 
wanton  and  cruel.”  The  commission  also  reported 
that  the  “ disturbances  had  their  immediate  origin 
in  a planned  resistance  to  lawful  authority,  and 
that  a principal  object  of  the  disturbers  of  order 
was  the  obtaining  of  land  free  from  the  payment 
of  rent.” 

Mr.  Eyre  was  recalled,  but  no  one  in  Jamaica 
of  respectable  position  and  property  but  concurred 
in  expressing  the  deepest  gratitude  to  Mr.  Eyre 
and  the  authorities  for  the  able  and  decided  meas- 
ures they  adopted ; for  there  is  not  the  least  doubt 
that  if  the  governor  had  hesitated  to  do  his  duty 
for  forty-eight  hours,  tire  whole  island  would  have 
been  in  insurrection,  and  the  360,000  negroes 
would  have  combined  to  “ drive  the  whites  into  the 
sea,”  as  threatened  in  the  House  of  Assembly. 
When  Governor  Eyre  left  Jamaica  he  carried  with 
him  the  affection  and  esteem  of  the  whole  European 
population,  who  considered  that  he  acted  nobly, 


198 


STARK ' S ILL  USTRA TED 


ably,  and  zealously,  and  that  in  crushing  the  re- 
bellion he  saved  them  from  destruction.  Previous 
to  Governor  Eyre’s  recall,  the  Legislature,  acting 
under  his  influence  and  advice,  passed  an  Act  abol- 
ishing the  constitution,  and  virtually  tendering  the 
government  to  the  Crown,  thus  making  the  island 
a crown  colony.  The  Act  empowered  her  Majesty 
the  Queen  “ to  create  and  constitute  a government 
for  the  island  in  such  form  and  with  such  powers 
as  her  Majesty  may  deem  best  fitting.”  This  Act, 
indorsed  by  the  Crown,  was  the  final  surrender  of 
those  liberties  for  which  Jamaica  in  other  days 
had  hotly  contended,  a representative  government 
which  had,  in  a history  of  two  hundred  and  two 
years,  been  almost  republican  in  its  powers  and 
pretensions. 

After  being  a crown  colony  for  nearly  twenty 
years,  a new  constitution  was  granted  by  an  order 
of  the  Queen  in  council,  dated  19th  May,  1884,  in 
which  it  was  declared  that  the  Legislative  Council 
of  Jamaica  should  consist  of  the  Governor,  the  Se- 
nior Military  Officer  for  the  time  being  in  com- 
mand of  her  Majesty’s  regular  troops  in  Jamaica, 
the  Colonial  Secretary,  the  Attorney  General,  and 
the  Director  of  Public  Works;  not  more  than  five 
members  nominated  by  the  Crown,  and  nine  mem- 
bers elected  by  taxpayers  of  twenty  shillings  and 
upwards.  The  island  was,  by  this  order  in  council, 
divided  into  nine  electoral  districts,  and  a member 
was  apportioned  to  each.  With  the  view  of  grant- 
ing to  the  elected  members  substantial  power  and 
responsibility  in  legislation,  it  was  provided  by  the 


JAMAICA  GUIDE. 


199 


order  in  Council  that  where  six  elected  members 
were  agreed  on  a question  affecting  finance,  the 
ex-officio  and  nominated  members  should  not  be 
required  to  vote  ; and  where  the  nine  elected  mem- 
bers were  agreed  on  any  other  question,  the  same 
rule  should  be  observed  with  regard  to  the  vote  of 
the  ex-officio  and  nominated  members.  This  con- 
cession to  the  elective  element  was  increased  by 
the  appointment,  on  the  inauguration  of  the  new 
system  of  government,  of  only  two  nominated  mem- 
bers, whereby  a majority  of  three  elected  members 
was  practically  given  in  the  Legislative  Council. 

The  Governor  is  President  of  the  Legislative 
Council,  and  six  members  and  the  President  consti 
tute  a quorum  for  the  despatch  of  business.  Any 
member  may  propose  any  question  for  debate  un- 
less it  involves  the  raising  or  expending  of  revenue, 
this  latter  power  being  vested  in  the  Governor  alone. 

There  is  also  a Privy  Council,  consisting  of  the 
Governor,  the  Senior  Military  Officer,  the  Colonial 
Secretary,  the  Attorney  General,  and  such  other 
persons,  not  exceeding  eight  in  number,  as  may 
be  appointed  by  the  Queen. 

There  is  a Parochial  Board  in  each  parish,  con- 
sisting of  the  person  representing  the  electoral  dis- 
trict in  the  Legislative  Council,  the  Custos  of  the 
Parish,  and  from  thirteen  to  eighteen  persons  elected 
by  the  taxpayers,  who  are  qualified  to  vote  at 
elections  for  the  Legislative  Council.  In  Kingston 
the  Chairman  of  the  Board  is  styled  Mayor,  and 
the  members  are  styled  Councillors.  The  Parochial 
Boards  manages  all  the  affairs  of  the  parish. 


INDEX. 


Abbey  Green,  81. 

Abolition  of  Slavery,  32,  152, 
153,  184. 

Acklin  Island,  4. 

Age  of  Gold,  31. 

Agriculture  and  Climate,  152. 
Albemarle,  Duke  of,  Governor,  25. 
Albion  Sugar  Plantation,  94,  95. 
Allan  and  Anchor  Steamship 
Line,  42. 

Alligators,  117. 

Annotto  Bay,  70,  1 37,  140. 
Apostles’  Battery,  109. 

Appleton,  1 16,  1 17. 

Arawaks,  180. 

Atlas  Steamship  Line,  2,  42. 
Attack  on  Trelawney  Town,  169. 

Bahama  Islands,  5. 

Bahama  Grass,  157. 

Baker,  Captain,  98. 

Balaclava,  116. 

Balcarrier,  Earl  of,  Governor, 
173- 

Banana  Plantations,  142,  147, 

149- 

Banana  Growing,  154. 

Banana  Shipping,  145. 

Baths,  Medicinal,  99,  100,  163. 
Bath,  99,  151. 


Bath  of  St.  Thomas  the  Apostle, 
99,  too. 

Beeston,  Sir  William,  Governor, 
27,  28. 

Bell  of  the  Church  of  Port  Royal, 
63,  64. 

Benbow,  Admiral,  28,  52. 

Bird  Rock  Lighthouse,  4. 

Black  River,  117. 

Blake,  Sir  Henry  Arthur,  Gov- 
ernor, 39. 

Bloodhounds,  129,  177. 

Blue  Mountain  Range,  148. 

Blue  Mountain  Peak,  73,  So-82. 

Blue  Mountains,  6,  100. 

“ Blue  Water,”  101. 

Boarding  Houses  and  Hotels,  55- 

58. 

Boating  and  Yachting,  56,  57. 

Bog  Walk,  108,  1 3 1 . 

Bolt  Hill,  138. 

Boston  Fruit  Company  Steamers, 
42,  43. 

Boston  Fruit  Co.,  2,  76,  98,  101, 
102,  146. 

Botanical  Gardens,  72,  73. 

Bowden,  98. 

Brayne,  Col.  William,  183. 

Breadnut  Valley,  117. 

Brooks  Hotel,  115. 


201 


202 


INDEX. 


Buccaneers,  21-25,  85,  86. 

Buff  Bay,  141 . 

Busby  Park  Sugar  Plantation,  109. 

Cable  Communication,  38. 

Cane  River,  92-95. 

Cape  Maysi,  5. 

Capital,  50. 

Caribbean  Steamship  Line,  42. 
Caribs,  180. 

Carlisle,  Earl  of,  Governor,  25. 
Carriage  and  Cab  Fares,  48,  49. 
Cascades,  Roaring  River,  133- 
135- 

Castle  Island,  4. 

Castleton,  73. 

Castleton  Garden,  69,  70,  73. 
Cathedral,  Spanish  Town,  106. 
Cattle,  1 19,  157. 

Cattle  introduced,  34. 

Cave  Hall  Pen,  136. 

Caverns,  136. 

Caymanas  Sugar  Plantation,  109. 
Charlemont,  132. 

Charter,  39. 

Cherry  Garden,  194. 

Churches,  54,  S6-88,  122. 
Cinchona  planting,  35. 

Citrus  Fruit,  156. 

Civil  marriages  made  legal,  38. 
Climate,  1 52,  159-164. 

Clubs,  59. 

Cockpit  Country,  1 1 7. 

Cocoanut  growing,  155- 
Cocoanut  Palms,  84. 

Cocoanm  plantations,  142,  147. 
Coffee  growing,  113,  153. 
Colonial  Bank,  52. 

Colonial  Secretary’s  Office,  52. 
Columbus,  3,  7-15. 


Columbus,  Diego,  16. 

Columbus,  Monument,  3. 
Communication  and  Transporta- 
tion, 41-49. 

Conquered  and  settled  by  the  Eng- 
lish, 16-30. 

Constabulary  and  Police,  193. 
Constant  Springs  Hotel,  71. 
Constant  Springs,  70,  71. 
Constitution,  New,  198. 

Coolies,  Characteristics,  etc.,  192, 
193- 

Coolie  immigration,  34. 

Coolie  Labor,  191. 

Coolie  Settlement,  151. 

Coolie  Woman,  47. 

Cost  of  Living,  59. 

Court  House,  52. 

Cromwell,  19-20. 

Crooked  Island,  4. 

Crown  Colony,  198. 

Cuba,  5. 

Cuban  Colony,  74. 

Cudjoe,  Maroon  leader,  167. 
Cumberland  Pen,  47. 

“ Cuna  Cuna  ” Pass,  100. 

Discovery  and  Settlement  by  the 
Spaniards,  7-15. 

Disestablishment  Church  of  Eng- 
land, 35. 

“Doctor,”  53. 

D’Oyley,  Colonel,  19-20. 

Dr.  McCatty’s  Sanitarium,  129. 
Dry  Plarbor,  136. 

Dutch  Settlers,  25. 

Earthquakes,  26-29,  89. 
Easington,  95. 

Eastern  Portland,  101. 


INDEX . 


203 


Edwards,  Sir  Bryan,  52. 

Electric  Lights,  52. 

Elgin,  Lord,  Governor,  34. 

Ellis,  Hon.  Evelyn,  119. 
Emancipation  Act,  184. 
Emigration,  188. 

English  Settlers,  183. 

English  University  Scholarship, 

38. 

Escobar,  Diego  de,  14. 

Esquimel,  Pedro  de,  181. 
Ewarton,  131. 

Ewing’s  Sugar  Plantation,  109. 
Exhibition  products  and  manufac- 
tures, 40. 

Expedition  against  Havana,  29. 
Exports,  52. 

Eyre,  John  Edward,  Governor,  34, 

35>  194. 

Fairy  Plill  Bay,  101. 

Fares,  41-44. 

Fern  Gully,  133. 

Ferns,  93,  133. 

First  General  Assembly,  21. 
Flying  Fish,  3. 

Food-Supply  and  prices,  59,  159. 
Fort  Augustus,  109. 

Fort  Charlotte,  129. 

Fort  Haldane,  137. 

Fortune  Island,  4. 

Free-Trade,  33. 

Freedom  of  the  Slaves,  32,  184. 
Fruits,  59. 

Fruit  shipment,  35,  98,  146. 
Fustic,  1 16. 

Gallows  Point,  85. 

Gamble,  Major  General,  Govern- 
or, 39. 


“ Garden  of  Jamaica,”  131. 

Gas,  introduction  of,  37. 
Geological  Survey,  65. 

Golden  Vale,  149,  150. 

Golden  Grove,  98. 

Gordon,  George  William,  194. 
Gordon  Town,  77. 

Government  and  Inhabitants,  180- 
199. 

Governor’s  Residence,  69. 

Grant,  Sir  Peter,  Governor,  35. 
Grape  Fruit,  156. 

Grass,  157. 

Gray’s  Charity,  137. 

Gray,  Sir  William,  Governor, 
36. 

Great  Highway,  69,  70. 

Great  River  Valley,  119. 

Great  Salt  Pond,  109. 

Green  Bay,  109. 

Green  Vale,  1 16. 

Guava  Ridge,  81. 

Guinea  Grass,  157. 

Halfway  Tree,  70-72. 

Harrison  Hotel,  129. 

Harrison,  Robert  Munroe,  70. 
Hayti,  5. 

Herbarium,  66. 

Plighest  Point,  81. 

Highgate,  140. 

High  School  and  University  Col- 
lege, 72. 

Holland  Bay,  98. 

Hope  Bay,  142. 

Plope  Gardens,  72. 

Hope  River,  77. 

Hope  Road,  72. 

Horses,  157. 

Hotel  Tariff,  57,  58. 


204 


INDEX. 


Hotels  and  Boarding-Houses,  55- 
58,  71,  76,  109,  1 15,  1 19,  129, 
132,  148. 

How  to  Reach,  2. 

Hunter,  Robert,  Major-General, 
28. 

Ice  manufacture,  52. 

Illegitimacy,  192. 

Imports,  52,  158. 

Import  duties,  158. 

Inchequin,  Earl  of,  Governor,  26. 
Indians,  7,  186. 

Inhabitants  and  Government, 
180-199. 

Innis’  Bay,  101. 

Institute  of  Jamaica,  60. 
Insurrection  of  the  Slaves,  29-34. 
Ipswich,  1 1 7. 

Irish  settlers,  183. 

Iron  Cage,  66-68. 

Irrigation,  36. 

Island  Head,  97. 

Jackson,  Colonel,  17. 

Jamaica  Club,  59. 

Jamaica  Railway  Company,  44- 
48. 

Jewish  Synagogue,  54. 

Juan  de  Bolas,  21. 

Jubilee  Market,  58,  59. 
“Judgment  Cliff,”  95. 

Junction  Road,  73. 

Kendal,  115. 

King’s  House,  69,  71,  72. 
Kingston,  27,  50-59. 

Kingston  Fires,  38,  51. 

Kingston  Harbor,  50,  83. 
Kingston,  places  of  interest  in 
vicinity  of,  69—76. 


Kingston  Station,  46. 

Knowls,  Governor,  29. 

Labor  and  laborers,  159. 

Labor  problem,  185. 

Lawes,  Sir  Nicholas,  Governor, 
70. 

Legislative  Council,  198. 

Lemons,  156. 

Leyland  Steamship  Line,  42. 
Library  and  Museum,  60-65. 
Lighthouses,  4,  5. 

Liguanea  Plain,  69. 

Lilly,  Sir  Christian,  27. 

Limes,  156. 

Livestock,  156. 

Loyalists,  American,  4. 

Lucea,  128. 

Lyttleton,  Sir  Charles,  Governor, 
21,  29. 

Maces,  The,  65. 

Mail,  41. 

Mail  Coaches,  48. 

Manchester  Hills,  1 1 5. 
Manchester,  William,  Duke  of, 
Governor,  32. 

Manchioneal,  100-102. 
Mandeville,  m-120. 
Mango-Trees,  141. 

Mangroves,  84. 

Marine  Gardens,  56,  57. 

Markets,  58,  59. 

Market  Days,  70. 

Maroons,  21,  1 1 7,  129,  151,  1 65— 
179,  182. 

Maroon  Settlement,  100. 
Maroons,  Transportation  of,  178, 
179- 

Maroons,  Treaty  with,  170. 


INDEX. 


205 


Marriage  Law,  38. 

Martial  Law,  30,  32. 

May  Pen,  1 1 1. 

Medicinal  Springs  and  Baths,  99, 
100,  163. 

Mendez,  Diego,  10. 

Metcalfe,  Sir  Charles,  Governor, 

33.  34- 

Metcalfe,  Sir  Charles,  statue,  51. 
Military,  69,  77,  79. 

Moddiford,  Sir  Thomas,  Gover- 
nor, 21,  24. 

Moneague,  131. 

Montego  Bay,  1 21-130. 
Montpelier,  m-120. 

Montpelier  Hotel,  119. 

Moore  Town,  100. 

Morant  Bay,  96-98. 

Morant  River,  97. 

Morgan,  Sir  Edward,  Deputy 
Governor,  21. 

Morgan,  Sir  Henry,  22,  24. 
Mount  Diabolo,  131. 

Mules,  159. 

Museum  and  Library,  60-65. 
Musgrave,  Earl  of,  Governor,  32, 
37- 

Myrtle  Bank  Plotel,  55,  56. 

Nanny  Town,  97. 

Negroes,  185. 

Negro  Characteristics,  74,  185. 
Negro  Outbreaks,  29,  30,  32,  34, 
96,  97,  194. 

Negro  Soldiers,  69. 

Negro  Women,  74. 

Newcastle,  77. 

Newspapers,  English  and  Ameri- 
can, 59. 

Norman,  Sir  Henry,  80. 


Norman,  Sir  Henry  Wylie,  Gov- 
ernor, 39. 

Obeah,  189. 

Obi,  166. 

Ocho  Rios,  133. 

Old  Harbor,  109. 

Oracabessa,  7. 

Oracabessa  Bay,  137. 

Oranges,  113,  156. 

Orange  Bay,  142. 

Orchids,  74,  75,  93,  132. 

Oxford  River,  116. 

Oxford  Valley,  116. 

Palisades,  50,  84. 

Palmer,  Mrs.,  122-128. 

Palmer  Monument,  122. 

Parade  Ground,  50. 

Parochial  Board,  199. 

Passage  Fort,  109. 

Payne’s  Hotels,  129. 

Payne,  Miss  Emily,  Hotel,  129. 
Penn,  Admiral,  18,  19. 

Pens,  47,  ill,  136. 

Philips,  Samuel,  55. 

Picaroons,  28. 

Pickford  and  Black’s  West  India 
Steamship  Line,  44. 

Pirates,  83-86. 

Pimento  grass,  157. 

Police  and  Constabulary,  193. 
Polygamy,  166. 

Population,  186,  187. 

Porras,  Francisco  and  Diego  de, 
11. 

Porus,  III. 

Port  Morant,  97. 

Port  Royal,  83-90. 

Portrait  Gallery,  60. 


206 


INDEX. 


Port  Antonio,  ioi,  102  139- 

1 51- 

Port  Henderson,  109. 

Port  Maria,  137. 

Postal  Union,  37. 

Presbyterian  Church,  54. 
Priestman’s  River,  101. 

Prince  Line,  42. 

Privy  Council,  199. 

Race  Problem,  187-189. 

Railroad  Tunnels,  139. 

Railway  Opened,  34. 

Railways,  38,  39,  44-46,  139. 
Rainfall,  161. 

Rebellion  of  1865,  194. 

Recent  History,  31-40. 

Record  Office,  103. 

Reed,  George  Washington,  107. 
Reformatory,  73,  74. 

Removal  of  Seat  of  Government, 

36- 

Residences,  53. 

Richmond,  140. 

Rio  Cobre  Hotel,  109. 

Rio  Cobre  River,  108. 

Rio  Grande  River,  142,  149. 

Rio  Nuevo,  137. 

Roaring  River,  133. 

Rodney,  Admiral,  103-106. 
Rodney’s  Lookout,  109. 

Rodney’s  Statue,  30. 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  54. 

Rose  Hall,  123. 

Rowe,  Sir  Joshua,  52. 

Royal  African  Company,  25. 
Royal  Jamaica  Yacht  Club,  59. 
Royal  Mail  Company,  41. 

Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Com- 
pany, 41. 


Runaway  Bay,  136. 

Rushworth,  Lieutenant-Governor, 

37- 

Saint  Thomas  ye  Vale,  132. 

St.  Ann,  1 3 1 . 

St.  Ann’s  Bay,  135. 

St.  Margaret’s  Bay,  142. 
Sanitarium,  Dr.  McCatty’s,  129. 
Santa  Gloria,  7. 

Saragossa  Sea,  3. 

Schools,  free,  150. 

Seat  of  Government,  36. 

Second  Maroon  Outbreak,  1 7 1 — 
177. 

Sedjwick,  Major,  Governor,  20. 
Seven  Miles,  92. 

“Sevilla  d’Oro,”  136. 

Sevilla  Nueva,  16. 

Shaddocks,  156. 

Shark  Papers,  60-63. 

Sheep,  158. 

Shirley,  Sir  Anthony,  1 7. 

Slaves,  19,  25,  31-33,  165,  182, 
183- 

Slaves,  Emancipation  of,  32,  152, 
153,  184. 

Slave  Insurrections,  29-34. 

Slave  Trading,  31,  32. 

Sligo,  Lord,  Governor,  33. 
Sloane,  Sir  Hans,  25. 

Society  of  Agriculture  and  Com- 
merce, 59. 

Spanish  Town,  109,  103-110. 
Spanish  Town  “Temple,”  103. 
Steamship  Companies,  2,  42,  43. 
Stock  Yards,  47. 

Stony  Hill,  70,  73. 

Street  cars,  establishment  of,  at 
Kingston,  36. 


INDEX. 


207 


Sugar  Plantations,  109. 

“ Surinam  Quarters,”  119. 

Telegraphs,  38. 

Temperature,  75,  79,  80,  Si,  S2. 
Theatres,  52,  59. 

Theatre  Royal,  52. 
“Three-fingered  Jack’s”  Cave, 
93- 

Tichfield  Hotel,  14S. 

Tram-cars,  49. 

Transportation  and  Communica- 
tion, 41,  49. 

Travelling  in  Jamaica,  44,  48. 
Trelawney,  Governor,  170. 
Tweedie  Trading  Company,  44. 

University  College  and  High 
School,  72. 

Union  Plain,  116. 

Vale  Guanaboa,  109. 

Vaughn,  Lord,  25. 

Vegetables,  156. 

Venables,  Colonel,  18,  19. 
Victoria  Institute,  38. 

Victoria  Market,  58,  59. 


Voodooism,  1S9. 

Voyage,  The,  1-6. 

Wag  Water  Loch,  74. 

Wag  Water  River,  51,  70. 

Wages,  59. 

War  between  Spain  and  England, 
29. 

Washing  clothes,  143. 

Water  Supply,  51. 

Watlings  Island,  3. 

Wesleyan  Chapel,  54. 

West  IndianChemical  Works,  109. 
West  India  and  Pacific  Steamship 
Company,  42. 

Westmoreland,  119. 

“White  Horses,”  97. 

Whitfield  Hall,  81. 

Wilberforce,  32. 

Williamsfield,  ill. 

Windsor,  Lord,  Governor,  20. 
Windward  Road,  92. 

Yacht  Clubs,  59. 

Yachting  and  Boating,  56,  57. 
Yallahs,  96. 

Yallahs  River,  81,  95,  96. 


CONDUCTED  ON  THE  AMERICAN  PLAN. 


^,his  Hotel  is  the  largest  and  most  elegant  in  the 
city  of  Kingston,  and  its  grounds  are  well  laid  out  and 
filled  with  beautiful  tropical  plants.  From  its  position  on 
the  shore  it  commands  extensive  views  of  the  Harbor  and 
Port  Royal  in  the  distance,  with  cool  delightful  breezes 
blowing  from  off  the  water  constantly  during  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day. 

It  is  provided  with  all  modern  conveniences,  Electric 
Lights  and  Bells  in  all  the  rooms,  Fresh  Water  Baths, 
Billiard  Tables,  Fine  Bar,  Reading  Room,  Ball  Room, 
Livery  and  other  conveniences. 

The  tables  are  supplied  with  all  the  delicacies  of  the 
season,  the  cooking  is  the  best  on  the  island  and  the 
attendance  excellent. 

For  terms,  circulars  and  any  further  information  address 

ISIDORE  DePASS, 

Myrtle  Bank,  Kingston,  Jamaica. 


Streadwick’s  Marine  Gardens  Hotel, 

KINGSTON. 

THE  BRIGHTON  OF  JAMAICA. 


Streadwick's  Hill  Gardens  Hotel, 

SAINT  ANDREW, 

THE  CATSKILLS  OF  JAMAICA. 

HOTELS  IN  DETACHED  COTTAGES, 

WITH  CENTRAL  DINING  AND  BILLIARD  ROOM,  ETC. 


The  Detached  Cottage  Plan  for  a tropical  climate  is  admitted 
THE  BEST  for  pure  air  in  bedrooms,  privacy  and  quiet.  Both 
these  Hotels  are  run  on  the  American  and  European  Plan. 


Hotel  Rio  Cobre, 


SPANISH  TOWN,  JAMAICA. 

^HE  HOTEL  RIO  COBRE  offers  to  visitors  to  the 
Island  a spacious,  cool,  and  agreeable  resort,  where 
ladies  and  gentlemen  can  be  comfortably  accommodated. 

It  stands  on  sixteen  acres  of  its  own  land,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Rio  Cobre,  and  belongs  to  a company  estab- 
lished under  the  Hotel  Law  of  1890. 

The  Hotel  is  noted  for  the  excellence  of  its  cuisine 
and  good  attendance.  Its  motto  has  been  : “ Tranquil  and 
comfortable,  with  creole  fare  and  fruit.’"  The  front 
verandas  are  twelve  feet  wide,  and  are  always  open  to 
the  fresh  air  and  the  delightful  sea  breezes  which  come 
throughout  the  day  over  four  or  five  miles  of  dry,  healthy 
plains. 

All  communications  and  telegrams  addressed  to 

i(  RIO  COBRE,”  Jamaica, 

will  receive  immediate  attention. 


MOWTpiLIE^  HOTEL. 

^ ^ ^ 

his  Hotel  is  situated  in  the  parish  of  St.  James 
near  Montego  Bay.  It  has  lately  been  completed, 
and  it  is  fitted  up  in  the  most  luxurious  style.  Position 
of  the  hotel  is  unequalled,  being  situated  on  the  top  of 
a mount  with  an  unobstructed  view,  and  open  to  the 
breezes  from  all  quarters. 

This  Hotel  has  at  present  no  more  than  sixteen 
bedrooms  as  the  proprietor  has  preferred  to  provide 
for  the  perfect  comfort  of  a limited  number  of  guests, 
rather  than  put  up  a large  number  in  comparative  dis- 
comfort. 

For  terms  and  for  further  particulars  address 

The  Manager, 

MONTPILIER  HOTEL, 


JAMAICA. 


(Hfie  Moneague  eHofef. 


nil  HIS  HOTEL  was  built  by  a few  gentlemen  of  the 
parish  of  St.  Ann,  who  availed  themselves  of  the 
Hotel  Law  of  1890,  and  formed  a company. 

The  situation,  climate,  scenery,  internal  arrangements, 
cuisine  and  management  of  this  Hotel  combine  to  make 
it  one  of  the  most  delightful  Resorts  for  Tourists  in  the 
West  Indies. 

Visitors  never  need  find  time  hang  heavily  on  their 
hands ; the  many  charming  drives  to  places  of  world  wide 
interest  in  the  neighborhood,  the  Tennis  Lawn  and 
Golf  Link,  afford  varied  opportunities  of  passing  the  hours 
of  the  day  pleasantly  out  doors,  while  a fine  Piano  and 
Billiard  Table  afford  similar  opportunities  to  those  pre- 
ferring to  remain  indoors. 

The  Board  of  Directors  is  composed  of  gentlemen 
residing  in  the  District,  who  make  it  their  aim,  by  close 
and  frequent  supervision,  to  ensure  the  comfort  and  enjoy- 
ment of  visitors. 

There  are  many  beautiful  drives  in  the  district,  the 
Roaring  River  Falls,  the  famous  Gully  Road,  Ocho  Rios 
and  other  places  noted  for  their  picturesque  beauty  are 
within  easy  reach.  Vehicles  can  be  had  at  all  times  at 
the  Moneague,  The  Hotel  is  nine  miles  from  the  Rail- 
way Terminus  at  Ewarton. 

The  Tariff  approved  by  the  Governor  and  Privy 
Council,  in  accordance  with  the  Hotel  Laws,  is  to  be 
found  on  page  57  of  this  work. 

For  further  information  please  apply  to  the  Secretary, 
to  whom  all  orders  for  apartments,  conveyances,  etc., 
should  be  addressed. 

A.  W.  SUTHERLAND,  Secretary. 


Brooks’  Hotel,  Mandeville, 

2,  06/  J/cct  above  Sea  jCevel,  e/7fanc/iesior, 
JAMAICA. 


O^ITUATED  in  the  Hills  of  Manchester,  among  its 
w famous  Orange  Groves  and  Coffee  Plantations,  in  one 
of  the  finest  climates  in  the  world. 

Temperature  from  50  to  80  degrees.  The  table  is 
supplied  with  fresh  food  and  meat,  a variety  of  fruit,  the 
Orange,  Grape  Fruit,  Shaddock,  Sapodillas  and  all  tropi- 
cal fruits  that  can  be  procured. 

Beautiful  drives  through  the  plateau  district  of  Man- 
chester offer  to  the  tourist  an  infinite  variety  of  tropical 
hill  scenery.  In  the  vicinity  are  Golf  Links,  a Golf  Club, 
a Tennis  Club  and  Court,  Billiards  at  the  Manchester 
Club  and  at  the  Hotel  Billiard  Room. 

The  Hotel  is  five  miles  from  Williamsfield  Railway 
Station,  and  may  be  reached  by  the  Hotel  Coach,  which 
meets  every  train,  or  by  carriage  which  may  be  specially 
ordered  from  the  extensive  Livery  in  connection  with  the 
Hotel. 

For  terms,  circulars  and  any  other  information,  address 

A.  S.  UNDO,  Lessee, 

(Uefecjrapft.  ef\c|c}re<M,  ]Brooft<§’  Mancje^iffe. 


BOSTON  FRUIT  CO. 

Titchfield  * Hotel*  Cottages, 

PORT  ANTONIO,  JAMAICA. 


RECENTLY  ENLARGED. 


Rooms  in  Main  Building  or  Cottages  as  pre= 
f erred. 

The  combined  Ocean  and  Mountain  Scenery  is 
unsurpassed  in  the  Island. 

Delicacies  of  the  Season  are  received  by  Ameri- 
can Fruit  Steamers  each  week. 

Only  Pure  Distilled  Water  used  for  Drinking 
purposes. 

EXCELLENT  SEA  BATHING. 


For  terms  apply  to  the  Manager , Titchfield  Hotel. 
Care  of  Boston  Fruit  Company , Port  Antonio. 


KINGSTON, 


JAMAICA. 


PINNOCK  & CO.,  LIMITED, 

WATERLOO  HOUSE. 


ESTABLISHED  1842. 

Drapery,  Millinery,  Boots  and  Shoes,  Gents’  and 
Youths’  complete  outfitting,  Fancy  Work,  Crockery, 
Glass,  Grocery,  Provision  and  Furnishing  Depart= 
ments. 

WATERL00  H20SE, 

RESTAURANT. 


For  the  convenience  of  customers  a well  appointed 
Restaurant  has  been  established  where  an  excellent  cui- 
sine, good  attendance  and  every  comfort  will  be  found. 
There  is  also  a private  eating  room  set  apart  for  ladies 
besides  the  general  restaurant,  a Reading  Room,  Bar  and 
Lavatories.  Waterloo  House  is  most  conveniently  situ- 
ated for  tourists  and  others  visiting  the  Island,  being  in 
the  centre  of  the  commercial  part  of  the  city. 

All  cars  pass  the  doors. 

N.  B.  There  is  a lift  on  the  premises  for  the  convey- 
ance of  visitors  to  the  several  departments. 


PlNNOCK  & CO. 


AMALGA  SOAP- 


Is  the  Only  Patented  Soap  in 
Jamaica  sold  in  3 descriptions, 

BROWN  ALMOND  SCENTED, 

WHITE 

BLUE  MOTTLED 

for  Laundry  Purposes  is  un- 
excelled. For  prices  apply  to 

ANDREW  DELISSER, 

149=151  Harbor  Street,  . . KINGSTON,  JAM. 

LADY  MUSGRAVE’S 

WOMEN’S  *55  SELF-HELP  SOCIETY, 

No.  8 CHURCH  ST.,  KINGSTON,  JAM. 
Depository  for  all  sorts  of 

NATIVE  CURIOSITIES, 
PRESERVES, 

PICKLES,  Etc.,  Etc. 


Orders  for  Photographic  Groups  Attended  To. 


TELEPHONE  No.  205. 


EDEN’S  LIVERY  STABLES, 


43  JAMES  STREET,  Cor.  of  Charles  St., 

KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 


A CHOICE  SELECTION  OF 

New  and  Stylish  Buggies  for  Excursions. 

(Afternoon  ©ri^e^,  ©Y^eiLeLi ng^  anc|  iJaneraf^, 
. . . AT . . . 


VERY  MODERATE  TERMS. 


Aaron  M.  Sollas, 

Church,  Commercial 
and  Show  Printer, 

110  TOWER  ST., 

COR.  CHURCH  STREET. 
KINGSTON,  JAMAICA, W.  I. 

Agent  Theatre  Royal, 

KINGSTON. 

PRINTER  OF  “Journal 
of  the  Jamaica  Agricul- 
tural Society, ’’  “Wink- 
ler’s Musical  Monthly.” 

Correspondence  Solicited. 


THE  MODERN  DRUG  AND  GROCERY  STORE, 

.30 jJ  <5°  126  S.  E.  Corner  of  King  and  Tower  Streets, 

KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 


T.  J.  CURPHEY, 

DISPENSING  CHEMIST  AND  DRUGGIST. 

Manufacturer  of  Concentrated  Essence  of  Jamaica  Ginger, 
Jamaica  Tooth  Elixir,  Cherry  Tooth  Paste,  Jamaica  Pearl 
Dentifrice,  Phosphoric  Rat  Poison,  and  a number  of  other 
specialties.  Large  stock  always  of  Drugs,  Chemicals,  Patent 
Medicines,  Toilet  Requisites,  Confectioneries,  Groceries,  Teas 
a specialty,  Garden  Seeds,  Biscuits  and  Wines  of  every  des- 
cription. 

Prescriptions  and  Family  Recipes  Accurately  Prepared. 

System  of  business:  Marking  all  goods  in  plain  figures, 
giving  the  best  attention  to  customers,  and  selling  only  reli- 
able goods.  Terms  Liberal. 


(jsflHE  very  many  pleasure  and  health  seekers  would  do  well  to  give  their 
attention  to  the  following  list  of  preparations,  which  will  in  every 
way  gratify  their  desires  to  give  and  take. 

By  giving  to  make  happy. 

In  taking  and  obtaining  every  palate’s  satisfaction. 


Tjurtie  ^Preparations. 

Turtle  Soups,  Turtle  Pat,  Turtle  Tablets, 

Turtle  Diamonds,  DriedTurtle,  Turtle  Eggs, 

Turtle  Liver  Oil,  Turtle  Bonne  Bouche. 

Jamaica  JPic/r/es. 

Mountain  Cabbage,  Chatney,  Calabash, 

Chippolata,  Mangoes,  Poor  Man’s  Sauce, 

Cherry  Peppers  in  Wine  Sauce. 


Jfamaica  ^Preserves. 


Ginger, 

Guava  Dolce, 
Mangoes, 

Oranges  and  Limes, 
Pineapples, 

Cocoa  Plums, 
Naseberries, 

Lace  Bark  Puffs, 
Lamp  Shades, 
Polish  Turtles, 


Guava  Jelly, 

Melon, 

Mangolima, 

Limes, 

Tamarinds, 

Rose  Apples, 

Curios. 
Fern  Albums, 
Doyleys, 


Guavas  in  Syrup, 
Stewed  Guavas, 
Orange 
Cashews, 

Figs, 

Cherimelias, 

Granadilla. 

Whips, 

Centre  Pieces, 
Porcupine  Fish. 


LE  VEEN  & SHERLOCK , 

68  HARBOUR  STREET,  KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 


Dr.  Alex.  J.  McCatty’s  Sanitarium, 

riONTEGO  BAY. 


Dr.  Alex.  J.  McCatty’s  Sanitarium  for 
invalids  is  pleasantly  situated  on  high  land 
near  the  shore  overlooking  the  Bay.  From  its 
vantage,  above  heat  or  the  night  dampness  of 
the  lower  lands,  and  its  excellent  bathing 
facilities,  together  with  the  attendance  of  Dr. 
McCatty,  it  is  truly  an  ideal  place  for  in- 
valids. Address, 


Dr.  Alex.  J.  McCatty, 

Montego  Bay,  Jamaica. 


EMILY  PAYNE’S  BOARDING  HOUSE 

MONTEGO  BAY. 


This  well-known  house  is  the  oldest  and 
best  known  boarding  and  lodging  house  in 
Montego  Bay.  It  has  been  patronized  during 
the  past  twenty  years  by  the  best  people  in  the 
Island,  Governors,  Judges,  Generals  and  other 
prominent  people.  The  rates  are  8 shillings 
per  day  or  T1-10  Per  week. 

Reduction  made  to  parties  or  families. 

For  further  information  apply  to 

EMILY  PAYNE,  dt 


MONTEGO  BAY. 


HARRISON'S  HOTEL, 

MONTEGO  BAY,  JAMAICA. 


This  house  is  pleasantly  situated  on  Union 
street,  with  large  comfortable  rooms  and  accom- 
modation for  twenty-five  guests. 

Spring  Water  baths  with  shower  attach- 
ments, sea  bathing  and  boating,  excellent  drives 
and  fine  riding  roads,  especially  for  Bicyclists. 

Terms  6 and  8 shillings  per  day  or  ^"i.io 
and  £ 2.00  per  week.  Special  arrangements 
made  for  families. 

REFERENCES : 

Judge  W.  H.  Hyndman  Jones, 

L.  E.  Rattigan, 

Captain  W.  Peploe  Forwood, 

A.  Stanley  Hill, 

H.  S.  Mount-Castle. 


S.  V.  DURAN  & CO. 


Manufacturers  of 

Cigars  and  Cigarettes*?^ 

Sole  Agents  for  W.  D.  & H.  O.  WILLS’ 

Celebrated  Tobaccos  and  Cigarettes 


101  & 103  HARBOUR  ST., 

KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 

A.  DUPERLY  & SONS, 

Portrait  & Landscape  Photographers 

(over  fifty  years  in  the  profession.) 

93  KING  STREET,  KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 

Two  doors  below  the  Park  and  opposite  the  Parish  Church. 

TELEPHONE  NUMBER  230. 

High  class  work  with  the  best  possible  finish  at  very  reason- 
able rates.  See  price  list. 

VIEWS  OF  THE  ISLAND. 

The  most  striking  and  varied  collection.  Photographs 
taken  daily  from  9 A.  M. 

Branch  places  where  views  can  be  obtained:  J.  H.  Milke, 
Jeweller,  12  King  Street;  Romero  & Murray,  Stationers,  120 
Harbour  Street;  Brooks’  Hotel,  Mandeville. 


THE  “COLOSSEUM,” 

115  HARBOUR  STREET, 

KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 

W.  H.  JOHNSON  & CO., 

GENERAL  HOUSE  FURNISHERS, 

The  Larges*, 

Cheapest 

a^d  Seat 

stock  of  HOUSE  FURNISHING  requisites 
in  Jamaica.  For  Neat,  Artistic  and  Up-to- 
date  goods — the  “Colosseum”  leads. 

We  gained  first  prize  at  the  Kingston  Agri- 
cultural Show  for  Native  Made  Furniture. 
Send  for  price  lists  post  free. 

W.  H.  JOHNSON  & CO., 

THE  COLOSSEUM, 

1 1,7  Harbour  Street,  Kingston. 


The  Colosseum”  W.  H.  Johnson’s  House  Furnishing  Store. 


W.  H.  JOHNSON  & CO., 

General  Hardware  Merchants, 

KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 

Agents  for  the  Royal  Exchange  Fire  Insurance  Corporation. 

Dealers  in  Paints,  Oils,  Engine  Stores, 
Leather,  Saddlery,  Etc. 

All  our  importations  are  paid  for  in  cash,  which 
enables  usto  sell  cheap,  and  purchasers  are  thereby 
benefited. 

We  invite  all  to  inspect  our  large  and  varied 
assortment  of 

HARDWARE 

in  all  its  branches. 

Compare  our  prices  before  going  elsewhere. 

In  conjunction  with  the  “ Colosseum,”  our  House 
Furnishing  Establishment,  115  Harbour  Street,  we  are 
in  a position  to  supply  all  the  requisites  of  a home, 

W.  H.  JOHNSON  & CO., 

23  KING  AND  115  HARBOUR  STREETS, 

KINGSTON,  JAMAICA. 


II.  Johnson’s  General  Hardware  Store. 


I 

li 


THE  ATLAS  LINE  OF  MAIL  STEAMERS 


SERVICE  BETWEEI  HEW  YORK,  JAMAICA,  EAYTI,  REPUBLIC  OF  COLOMBIA 
AND  COSTA  RICA,  AND  REPUBLIC  OF  HICARAUUA. 


The  Atlas  Line  of  Mail  Steamers’  fleet  comprises  nine  iron 
and  steel  steamers,  built  by  the  most  celebrated  ship-builders  in  Scot- 
land; they  are  constructed  in  water-tight  compartments,  the  greatest 
care  and  attention  having  been  bestowed  upon  the  construction  of  the 
compartments  and  water-tight  bulkheads.  They  have  also  been  fitted  up 
especially  for  the  conveyance  of  passengers;  the  accommodations  are  of 
the  best  description,  and  the  steamers  are  furnished  with  every  requi- 
site for  making  their  trips  safely  and  agreeably.  The  following  is  a list 
of  the  Company’s  fleet: 

S.S.  “ALTAI,”  Capt.  J W.  Morris,  2,690  tons 

S.S.  “ALLEGHANY,” Capt  H Low,  2,494  tons 

S.S.  “ADIRONDACK,” Capt.  J.  W.  Sansom,  2, 1 77  tons 

S.S.  “ALENE,-’ Capt.  E J.  Seiders,  2,239  tons 

S.S.  “ATMOS,” Capt.  \V  Owen,  1 957  tons 

S.S.  “ANDES,” Capt.  T M.  Macknight,  1,711  tons 

S S.  “ALPS,” Capt.  W.  Long,  1,725  tons 

S.S.  "ADULA,” Capt.  W.  Walker,  772  tons. 


SERVICE.  KINGSTON  TO  NEW  YORK— A steamer  leaves 
Kingston  for  New  York  weekly,  taking  freight,  mails  and  passengers. 

SERVICE.  NEW  YORK  TO  KINGSTON.— A steamer  leaves 
New  York  every  week,  on  Saturday,  for  Kingston  direct. 

Cargo  for  the  United  Kingdom  and  the  Continent  is  carried  by  this 
Company  on  through  Hills  of  Lading. 

The  “Adula,”  the  Coastal  Contract  Steamer,  has  been  built  specially 
for  the  Island  Service.  Her  passenger  accommodation  is  forward  of  the 
engines,  and  is  on  the  upper  deck.  Every  attention  has  been  paid  to  the 
comfort  of  passengers.  She  is  fitted  throughout  with  electric  lights.  Her 
average  speed  is  eleven  knots. 

The  “Adula”  leaves  Kingston  every  alternate  Tuesday  at  7 a m.,  on 
the  Eastern  route,  and  every  alternate  Tuesday  on  the  Western  route  at 
7 a.m  , calling  at  fourteen  oiitports. 

The  Coastal  Steamer  makes  a direct  connection  with  the  company’s 
main  line  steamers  from  New  York. 

Messrs.  LEECH,  HARRISON  & FORWOOD, 

Managers,  Liverpool. 

W.  PEPLOE  FORWOOD,  General  Ag’t,  .Jamaica. 


the;  ATLAS  S.  COMPANY,  (Limited.) 


This  company’s  slip-dock  in  Kingston  is  capable  of  lifting  vessels  up 
to  1,100  tons.  The  cradle  is  23(1  feet  long  The  print  represents  HM.S. 
“Rambler”  which  vessel  was  hauled  up  and  repaired  in  1896,  to  the  en- 
tire satisfaction  of  the  Commodore  of  the  Station  Connected  with  the 
dock  is  a complete  diving  plant;  and  an  experienced  diver,  late  of 
H.  M ’s  Navy,  is  on  the  staff.  For  further  particulars,  apply  to 
W.  PEPLOE  FORWOOD,  Superintendent,  Atlas  Steamship  Com- 
pany’s Slip-dock,  Kingston,  Jamaica. 


Rambler  in  the  Atlas  S.  S.  Co’s.  Slip-dock,  Kingston,  Jamaica. 


2 

w 


LEYLAND  ^ LINE, 

BOSTON  AND  LIVERPOOL. 

Sailing  from  Boston  every  Wednesday,  from  Pier  6, 
Boston  & Albany  Docks,  East  Boston. 

These  steamers  are  new  vessels,  among  the  largest  crossing,  and 
have  a limited  number  of  staterooms  for  first-cabin  passengers  on  the 
top  or  bridge  deck,  thus  ensuring  the  best  of  ventilation.  Electric  Lights 
and  all  modern  conveniences.  No  steerage  carried.  "Winter  passage 
rates,  $45  and  up.  For  sailings,  cabin  plans,  etc.,  apply  to  the  Com- 
pany’s Passenger  Office,  as  below. 

If  you  are  going  abroad  for  abicycle  trip,  send  10c.  in  stamps  for 
our  little  publication  called,  “BICYCLING  NOTES  FOB  TOURISTS 
ABROAD ” 

F.  O.  HOUGHTON  & CO.,  Gen’l  Agents, 

1 15  State  Street,  (cor.  Broad),  ....  BOSTON. 

TELEPHONE  1359. 


-THE- 

ADAMS  <4e  CABLE  ^ CODEX. 


The  most  Complete  Publication  of  its  kind  issued  for 
CIRCULATION  AMONG  TRAVELLERS,  and  contains  over 
200  pages  of  sentences  especially  adapted  to  the  general 
requirements  of  those  who  travel  for  either  business,  health 
or  pleasure,  or  for  commercial  purposes.  PRICE  : In  Cloth, 
50  cents.  In  Paper,  25  Cents.  By  mail,  4 cents  extra  for 
postage.  Published  by 

F.  0.  HOUGHTON  & CO., 

European  Passenger  Agents, 

115  State  St.,  Cor.  Broad,  . 


Boston,  Mass. 


Stark’s  Guides 

1 1 IMIHI I ■ 1 1 1 11111111111 

TO  WEST  INDIES  AND  BERMUDA, 

Jamaica,  Bahamas,  Trinidad,  Barbadoes  and  Caribbee 
Islands.  British  Guiana  and  Bermuda. 

PRICE,  $1.50  EACH. 


Also. 


Views  of  Jamaica.^ 

The  largest  and  most  varied 
selection  in  the  city. 


Seneral  'Uourists’ 

* J-  INFORMATION  FREE. 


It  is  to  my  interest  that  you  enjoy  your  stay  in  our  island. 
Save  time  and  money  by  calling  directly  you  land  at.... 

Surge  Gardner’s, 

BOOKSELLER,  * STATIONER  * AND 
GENERAL  AGENT, 

HO  HARBOUR  STREET, 

KINGSTON,  JAMAICA, 


FLORIDA.  CUBA.  NOVA  SCOTIA. 


PLANT 

SYSTEM 

9 

RAILWAYS. 

Savannah.  Florida  & Western. 
Charleston  & Savannah. 
Alabama  Midland. 

Brunswick  & Western. 

Florida  Southern. 

Sanford  and  St.  Petersburg. 
Silver  Springs,  Ocala  & Criilf. 

St.  John’s  & Lake  Eustis. 

Ashley  River. 

Green  Pond,  Walterboro  & Branch- 
ville. 

Abbeville  Southern. 

Tampa  & Thonotosassa. 

Winston  & Bone  Valley. 

HOTELS. 

Tampa  Bay  Hotel,  Tampa,  Fla.  The  Ocala  House,  Ocala,  Florida. 

Port  Tampa  Inn,  Port  Tampa,  Fla.  The  Belleview,  Belleair,  Florida. 
Seminole,  Winter  Park,  Florida.  The  Kissimmee,  Kissimmee,  Fla. 

PuntaGorda  Hotel,  PuntaGorda,  Fla.  Fort  Myers  Hotel,  Fort  Myers,  Fla. 

STEAflSHlP  LINES. 

Port  Tampa,  Key  West  & Havana. 
Port  Tampa  & Mobile. 

Port  Tampa  & Island  of  Jamaica. 
Port  Tampa  & Manatee  River. 

Boston  & Halifax. 

Boston,  Cape  Breton  & Prince 
Edward  Island. 
Chattahoochee  River. 

H.  B.  PLANT, 

President, 

New  York. 

B.  W.  WRENN, 

Passenger  Traffic  Manager, 
Savannah,  Ga. 

1. 1.  FARNSWORTH,  Eastern  Pass.  Agt., 

‘261  Broadway, 

New  York. 

I.  A.  FLANDERS,  N.  E,  Pass.  Agt., 

il)0  Washington  St., 

Boston,  Mass. 

THE 


Trinidad  Line  of  Steamers 


Fortnightly  Service!  between  New  York  and 
Trinidad,  calling  at  Grenada  coming  and 
going,  by  the  fine  A 1 Steamers  “ Grenada  ” 
and  “Irrawaddy ” 

These  Steamers  have  exceptional  passenger 
accommodation,  being  specially  built  and 
fitted  for  trading  in  the  Tropics. 

Port-of-Spain, Trinidad,  B.W.  I.,  promises 
to  become  a favorite  resort  for  tourists  or 
those  requiring  to  escape  the  rigors  of  the 
American  winter.  A new  and  comfortable 
hotel  has  been  built,  and  special  arrangements 
have  been  made  with  proprietors  tor  passen- 
gers by  this  line. 

For  further  information  as  to  Fares  and  Dates  of  Sailing 
apply  to 

Martin  Dean  & Co.,  Grenada 
The  Trinidad  Shipping  & Trading  Co.,  Ltd. 

PORT=OF=SPAIN,  TRINIDAD 

OR 

The  Trinidad  Shipping  & Trading  Co.,  Ltd. 

29  BROADWAY,  NEW  YORK 


odPICKFORD  S BLACK’S,^ 

West  Indian  Steamship  Lines. 


WINDWARD  ISLAND  SERVICE. 

The  A i Iron  Steamships  Taymouth  Castle 
and  Duart  Castle,  2000  tons  each,  with  supe- 
rior passenger  accommodations,  leave  Halifax, 
N.  S.,  every  4 weeks, 

Via  BERMUDA, 

for  Demerara  and  return,  calling  both  ways  at 
Bermuda,  St.  Thomas,  St.  Kitts,  Antigua,  Mont- 
serrat, Guadaloupe,  Dominica,  Martinique,  St. 
Lucia,  Barbados  and  Trinidad. 

31  days  from  Bermuda  to  Demerara  and  return. 


JAMAICA  SERVICE. 

The  well-known  A 1 Iron  Steamship  “Alpha,” 
with  extra  passenger  accommodations,  leaves 
Halifax,  N.  S.,  on  the  15th  of  each  month  for 
Turks  Island  and  Kingston,  Jamaica,  calling  at 
Bermuda  going  and  returning. 

14  days  Bermuda  to  Jamaica  and  Return. 

Either  of  the  above  routes  make  a very  pleasant  excur- 
sion for  tourists  wintering  at  Bermuda. 

For  further  particulars  apply  to 

PICKFORD  & BLACK,  Halifax,  N.  S. 

W.  T.  JAMES,  Bermuda. 

THOS.  COOK  & CO.,  261  Broadway,  N.  Y. 


Steamers  of  the 


Fruit  Co. 


Carrying  the  U.  S.  Mail. 

CAILING  from  LONG  WHARF,  Boston,  direct  for 
PORT  ANTONIO,  Jamaica,  weekly,  from  November 
to  March,  and  semi-weekly  from  March  to  November. 

These  Steamers  are  new  and  fitted  with  superior  accommoda- 
tions for  passengers.  Cabins  on  main  deck  and  located  forward 
of  engines,  thus  securing  light  and  air  free  from  any  dis- 
agreeable odors. 

Distance  Boston  to  Port  Antonio,  1,600  miles, 

which  is  covered  in  five  days. 

The  disagreeable  sensations  produced  on  passengers  by 
passing  near  Hatteras  incident  to  some  other  routes  is  avoided 
by  taking  the  Steamers  of  this  Line. 

At  PORT  ANTONIO,  excellent  communications  by  land  or 
water  can  be  had  with  all  parts  of  the  island. 

Full  particulars  furnished  by  application  to 

A.  W.  PRESTON,  Man’gr  Boston  Division,  Boston. 

OK 

L.  D.  BAKER,  Pres,  and  Man'gr,  Tropical  Division, 


PORT  ANTONIO,  JAMAICA. 


Stark’s  Guide=Books 


TO 

Bermuda  and  West  Indies. 

Fully  Illustrated  with  Photo-prints  and  Maps. 


Price,  $1.50  each;  postpaid,  $1.60. 


BERMUDA,  JAMAICA,  BAHAMAS,  BRITISH 
GUIANA,  TRINIDAD,  BARBADOES 
AND  CARIBBEE  ISLANDS. 

The  most  complete  and  authentic  Guide-Books  ever 
published  on  the  British  West  Indies.  They  contain  a 
description  of  everything  relating  to  those  colonies  that 
would  be  of  interest  to  tourists  and  residents,  respecting 
their  history,  inhabitants,  climate,  agriculture,  geology, 
government,  and  resources. 

FOR  SALE  BY 

JAMES  H.  STARK,  Publisher, 

36  Equitable  Building,  Boston,  U.S.A., 

SAMPSON  LOW,  MARSTON  & COMPANY,  Limited, 
London, 


and  by  Booksellers  throughout  the  British 
West  Indies. 


Stark's  Illustrated  Bermuda  Guide. 

Two  hundred  pages,  profusely  illustrated  with  Maps  and  Photo- 
Prints,  12  mo.  $1.60,  post-paid. 

“A  most  exhaustive  book  on  Bermuda  Mr.  J H.  Stark  spent  several  seasons 
in  Bermuda  for  the  express  purpose  of  collecting  material  for  a history  and  guide 
book,  and  nothing  is  omitted  or  overlooked  which  the  invalid  or  traveller  for 
pleasure  will  wish  to  know.” — Boston  Transcript. 


‘‘The  Illustrated  Bermuda  Guide,  written  by  Mr  James  H.  Stark,  of  this  city, 
is  the  latest  book  on  the  Bermuda  Islands.  It  contains  twenty-four  artistic  photo- 
prints, besides  several  handy  maps  of  the  islands,  which  will  be  of  much  con- 
venience to  the  tourist  who  seeks  rest  and  pleasure  in  the  miniature  continent, 
700  miles  from  New  York. 

The  text  of  the  volume  treats  of  the  history,  inhabitants,  climate,  agriculture, 
geology,  government  and  military  and  naval  establishments  of  Bermuda,  de- 
scribing in  an  entertaining  fashion  the  most  noticeable  features  of  the  island, 
and  furnishing  a brief  sketch  of  life  in  Bermuda  from  the  original  settlement 
until  to-day.” — Boston  Herald 


Stark’s  History  and  Guide 

BAHAMA  ISLANDS. 

Fully  illustrated  with  Maps,  Photo-Prints  and  Wood  Cuts, 

12  mo.,  $1.60,  post-paid. 

“ I have  read  your  Book  on  the  Bahamas  with  great  care  and  interest,  and 
can  confidently  speak  of  it  as  the  most  trustworthy  account  of  the  Colony  that 
has  yet  been  published.”  _ 

Sir  Ambrose  Shea, 

Governor  of  the  Bahamas. 

“Your  book  has  exceeded  my  expectations;  you  have  filled  up  a gap  in  the 
history  of  the  English  Empire,  especially  in  the  history  of  our  colonies,  that 
deserve  the  encomiums  of  every  Englishman,  aye,  and  of  every  American  who 
reads  your  book.  The  colonists  of  the  Bahamas  owe  you  a debt  that  they 
can  never  fully  repay.”  _ _ 

G.  C.  Camplejohn, 

Judge  op  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas , Bahamas. 


STARK'S  HISTORY  AND  OUIDE  TO  BARBADOS 

And  the  CARIBBEE  ISLANDS. 

Two  hundred  and  twenty  pages  profusely  illustrated  with 
Maps  and  Photo-Prints,  12  mo.,  $160,  post-paid. 

Mr.  James  H.  Stark  visited  these  islands  and  derived  his  information  at 
first  hand.  He  has  given  a brief  history  of  their  discovery  and  settlement,  and 
also  an  account  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  inhabitants,  which  is  supe- 
rior to  that  of  any  other  work  on  the  subject.  The  book  is  richly  supplied  with 
half-tone  illustrations,  which  give  a capital  idea  of  the  buildings,  the  localities, 
and  the  people  throughout  these  tropical  islands. 

The  information  is  practical,  and  the  volume  will  be  highly  prized  by  those 
who  have  interests  in  these  islands  or  have  occasion  to  visit  them.  Mr.  Stark 
has  done  much  to  lift  them  into  notoriety  by  his  careful,  accurate  and  instructive 
work. — Boston  Herald. 

For  Sale  by 

James  H.  Stark,  Publisher,  36  Equitable  Building,  Boston, 

Sampson  Low,  Marston  & Company,  Limited,  London. 


A 


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STEAMERS 


